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Long Francesco posted:I installed one of these a few weeks ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5W3243 , the quality is pretty solid although im personally not a big fan of the license plate mount since it half blocks my tailgate handle. There are bullet style cameras that install inside your door/bumper/whatever which might be a better option. (https://www.amazon.com/RAAYOO-Universal-Installation-Guildlines-non-mirror/dp/B074P45P7G) https://www.amazon.com/eRapta-ERT01...7JPA5PCVPDF8HAJ I have no recommendations on screen beyond - throw in a head unit that supports it? That's what I did, and there definitely are headunits that support multiple video inputs.
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Apr 29, 2019 22:11
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I considered something like that but unfortunately mounting it over the plate would block the registration stickers, the one I have goes under the plate and comes up and over. I'm putting in a bullet cam once I get around to it, and is probably the better option for most people as it looks much cleaner and you gotta drill a hole anyway for most cameras so why not make it look as factory as possible. The headunit I installed has 2 inputs and an output for another monitor, and it's just a low/mid pioneer, so yeah pretty much all of them have those features nowadays.
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Apr 29, 2019 22:25
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meatpimp posted:I think I've got a spare battery I can jumper to, I'll try that. Okay, riddle me this, boys: I tried to start it just for shits and grins a couple times today, running the gearshift up and down in between tries, etc. No change, just a strong single "click" from the solenoid. I just went to shut the garage door and saw that it had crept back a couple inches with me taking it out of park and putting it back in (even though I had my foot on the brake the whole time). So, I put it in neutral and pushed it up a couple inches. Put it back in park and... it started right up. It won't NOT start right now. So what the gently caress do I make out of that? I'm still leaning towards replacing the starter, but man, that's got me wondering about the transmission switch again. I guess I'll find out when I get under there. 
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Apr 30, 2019 00:44
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Okay, riddle me this, boys: The loud click means everything is fine up to the starter relay. It's getting power, the relay is closing. Either something is not allowing the circuit to the starter to close (transmission interlock switch) or the starter itself is bad.
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Apr 30, 2019 01:02
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Deteriorata posted:The loud click means everything is fine up to the starter relay. It's getting power, the relay is closing. Either something is not allowing the circuit to the starter to close (transmission interlock switch) or the starter itself is bad. From what my friend said with his head in the engine compartment on both sides, the loud click is coming straight from the solenoid/starter. He said that pretty definitively. It's definitely a louder/stronger click than a relay engaging. The good news is that since it started, I was able to put it diagonally in the garage, so I'll at least have some space to work under it tomorrow. Is there multiple "steps" to the transmission interlock? It always shows the correct gear selection on the dash, and will only attempt to start/click when the transmission is in drive or neutral. Also, when I shift back into part, the doors unlock and I thought that was a tell that the bcm knows the transmission is in park? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 30, 2019 |
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Apr 30, 2019 01:16
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meatpimp posted:From what my friend said with his head in the engine compartment on both sides, the loud click is coming straight from the solenoid/starter. He said that pretty definitively. It's definitely a louder/stronger click than a relay engaging. The loud click is probably the Bendix engaging, then. So power is getting into the starter itself, but it's not working. It seems likely there's a bad spot in the windings and it needs to be replaced. Moving the car turned the transmission shaft and flywheel just a teeny bit, so the next time the Bendix engaged it made the starter turn a little, which in turn put it on a good spot to get going. Next time it won't start, try tapping on the starter with a wrench and see if that gets it going. If it does, the starter is definitely going bad. You can probably play roulette with it for a while. The number of bad spots will gradually grow, though, so it will refuse to start in more and more positions until it won't start at all.
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Apr 30, 2019 02:32
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Deteriorata posted:The loud click is probably the Bendix engaging, then. So power is getting into the starter itself, but it's not working. It seems likely there's a bad spot in the windings and it needs to be replaced. Moving the car turned the transmission shaft and flywheel just a teeny bit, so the next time the Bendix engaged it made the starter turn a little, which in turn put it on a good spot to get going. Next time it won't start, try tapping on the starter with a wrench and see if that gets it going. If it does, the starter is definitely going bad. Thanks. That's what I was thinking/hoping. Especially since I found out it was already a reman'd starter. We'll see tomorrow when I get into it.
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Apr 30, 2019 02:37
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I'm putting the big end caps on after replacing bearings on my 80s french shitbox (XU9 4cyl petrol engine). When I torque no.2 cylinder's end cap down, I can no longer move the crank by hand, the whole thing locks up completely. 1, 3 and 4 are torqued and are totally fine, the crank moves fine until I torque down 2. I'm sure the end cap is on the right way round, but just to check I put it on back to front and it didn't change anything. Both bearings on 2 seem to be situated correctly and look good. What could cause this? Is it a duff bearing? e: The only things I can think of are the main part of the conrod is somehow out of position, or the bearing is faulty and is too thick or something. Is there anything else? Grakkus fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 30, 2019 |
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Apr 30, 2019 13:31
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meatpimp posted:Thanks. That's what I was thinking/hoping. Especially since I found out it was already a reman'd starter. We'll see tomorrow when I get into it. LSx starters aren't the greatest things out there anyway. They still suffer from the classic GM problem of being exposed to a lot of exhaust heat. If the starter itself is clicking, nothing else in the circuit is interrupting it. I would probably pull the wiring diagram and trace out the path the purple wire takes to get to the starter - GM was also terrible about running the full solenoid current through a long path with a lot of switches, so if one of them has high resistance even when closed, it could be not enough power to actually kick the solenoid all the way.
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Apr 30, 2019 14:19
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About a decade ago I remember seeing a car leather care site that seemed really legit. They had color-matched repair kits, general products, and also a leather air freshener you tie to the underside of your seat. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
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Apr 30, 2019 22:07
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:About a decade ago I remember seeing a car leather care site that seemed really legit. They had color-matched repair kits, general products, and also a leather air freshener you tie to the underside of your seat. Anyone know what I'm talking about? http://www.leatherique.com/
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Apr 30, 2019 23:02
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Let's talk TPMS... I haven't really delved into it since my first go round with the system. In theory, vt will start ignoring the tpms light on inspections - but, it's an annoying light, and the system just paid for itself in that I didn't drive around when I picked up a rock earlier today. What's the best/easiest way to interface/update these systems these days? Specifically Honda. Good resources? Are clone-able sensors still a thing?
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Apr 30, 2019 23:26
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Grakkus posted:I'm putting the big end caps on after replacing bearings on my 80s french shitbox (XU9 4cyl petrol engine). When I torque no.2 cylinder's end cap down, I can no longer move the crank by hand, the whole thing locks up completely. 1, 3 and 4 are torqued and are totally fine, the crank moves fine until I torque down 2. I'm sure the end cap is on the right way round, but just to check I put it on back to front and it didn't change anything. Both bearings on 2 seem to be situated correctly and look good. What could cause this? Is it a duff bearing? The only time that this ever happened to me, the caps were out of order.
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May 1, 2019 04:56
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PainterofCrap posted:The only time that this ever happened to me, the caps were out of order. Yup, turns out my enthusiastic but not detail-oriented assistant mislabeled the endcaps on 2 and 3! Swapping them back around fixed the problem.
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May 1, 2019 07:43
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Hell yeah. You can tell from the janky site that it's totally legit.
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May 2, 2019 20:09
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Hell yeah. You can tell from the janky site that it's totally legit. I've brought back some really, really bad leather with that stuff. Slather it on on a hot day, bag the seat with a black plastic trash bag, close the car up and park it in the sun for a couple of days. It's magic.
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May 2, 2019 20:42
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Hell yeah. You can tell from the janky site that it's totally legit. That Plastix stuff is the same, garbage site, making GBS threads logos and design but the product itself is fantastic.
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May 2, 2019 20:48
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Motronic posted:I've brought back some really, really bad leather with that stuff. Well at least we finally found the Zodiac killer.
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May 2, 2019 20:53
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Well at least we finally found the Zodiac killer. If that's zodiac killer like I'm gonna have to disclose that cursedshitbox gave me this tip.
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May 2, 2019 21:01
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simplefish posted:Just a quick question, but oil change is every 10,000km/6000 miles or so, right? And you change the filter when you change the oil? I'm talking about transmission fluid, not engine oil. Engine is doing just fine.
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May 2, 2019 21:25
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Hey! I hope someone can help me understand the SRS system in my car a bit better so I can figure out if the local Honda dealer here is telling me nonsense to comfort me about the $700 SRS unit replacement he did that didn't fix my issue. I have a 2010 Honda Civic 2d. Sorry for the book here, I'm just really frustrated and confused. It initially failed inspection at a different repair shop because the SRS light never comes on. It doesn't turn on for 7 seconds then turn off, it just never is on. They took a quick look at it and advised I'd have to go to a Honda Dealership to get it done, which started my nightmare. They took a look at it and had to contact Honda about Seatbelt/airbag warranties which took about a week. Then they advised they changed my airbag (under warranty, it was recalled) and that my Honda was good to go, the light is off! I asked if it turns on initially when you started and reiterated that that was my original problem and they said it didn't. The technician then said he was really confident changing the srs unit would fix it. I specifically said I didn't want them to change the unit if they didn't think it would solve it. It did not solve it. Now they're saying they need to change the seatbelts because it's giving an airbag deployed code (last accident was just under 3 years ago) and that's why it's never coming on. That would be another $700 for both. When I said they changed my SRS unit for nothing they said you HAVE to change the srs unit to change seatbelts because it has to reset or leaves a code that's stuck or something. Does this sound like a thing or is the dealer trying to make me feel better about having wasted $700 on an SRS unit for nothing. Also, if feel like the light should be ON if this is the problem, not OFF. But I don't know much and it sounds complicated so I don't know if i'm being unreasonable. 
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May 3, 2019 03:03
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Your car was in an accident where airbags deployed? Afaik, that removes the lifetime warranty on the airbags.
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May 3, 2019 03:11
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The last accident was a bit under 3 years ago under a previous owner. It's been inspected twice since then so the light has worked since then. At this point they advised the seatbelt still wouldn't be covered, which I don't like but I get it. I just don't know if you NEED to replace the SRS unit if the seatbelts/harness are the issue, which is what the dealer told me.
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May 3, 2019 03:19
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When did this problem start? If the light hasn't come on since the accident, it's likely the SRS system was never properly repaired after the accident. There are seatbelt pretensioners that fire off in an accident that have to be replaced in most cars. Do your seatbelts retract normally? It's also possible that it's just a bad ground or connector that's come loose, and the dealer doesn't want to gently caress around with diagnosing the actual problem. Edit: You replied while I was writing this. Without looking at the car, there's no way to tell just what's up.
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May 3, 2019 03:24
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I'm not sure exactly when it stopped coming on. I know it definitely used to be on.I've seen it on while I've owned it but because it's almost always off (after the initial 7 seconds) I didn't notice when it started. They do retract normally and the pretensioners firing off sounds a lot like what they were saying. What I asked him then is if it was giving that code why they said fixing just the srs unit would fix it and why the light never comes on as apposed to being always on. It sounds really complicated so I guess I can't give them too much grief but it's so frustrating and expensive.
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May 3, 2019 03:32
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Run the cluster diagnostic. It'll light up everything. If the SRS light isn't coming on for this, it's the cluster (or the bulb/LED). . The timing is pretty precise, but it should cause everything to light up. If the SRS light isn't coming on, them the bulb is dead for one reason or another. If it's an LED, you'll have to dig further into it. If it uses a plain old incandescent bulb, then you can probably just swap, say, the security bulb (the one that lights up green with a key icon) with the SRS light. I don't know of any state that would inspect that. If it was the SRS module being disconnected, that SHOULD cause the light to come on and stay on. In theory. You might want to find the SRS module and verify that nothing has come loose from it - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST, turn on the headlights and ignition switch for several minutes after disconnecting to make sure there's no power left anywhere. "They" generally recommend 15+ minutes. The SRS module is usually in the middle of the car somewhere (under the center console is a good place to look); it'll be very obvious in that it'll have yellow cables going to it. The SRS modules can be reset after an accident - any good body shop can do it, you can do it with higher end handheld scan tools (not Torque and an OBD2 dongle, I'm talking tools that cost a few hundred minimum), and there's plenty of people on eBay that will do it for you if you just mail the SRS module to them (they reset it and send it back). Since they replaced the SRS module, you can probably rule out the module. A high end scan tool (like what a dealer has, or better independent shops) can dive into the SRS module to see if it's throwing any codes (or just flat out not communicating). And I'd raise a stink with the dealer about them charging you $700 and not actually fixing the problem. They should have verified that the rest of the car is communicating with the SRS module; if they did that (and they should have, as the SRS module is programmed to the rest of the car via VIN, it's not something you can just swap without programming), then I'd really be suspecting a cluster or bulb issue. I'm not sure when/if Honda moved to LEDs for warning indicators. The  in me thinks that the way they're flashing during the cluster test shows that a lot of them are still incandescent. I know the cluster in my own car (not a Honda, but still) has a handful of incandescents (SRS, turn signals, high beam indicator, back lighting), with the rest being LED.The dealer was correct in telling you that the SRS module will always trigger the SRS light after an accident that fired the airbags and/or seatbelt pretensioners, even after replacing whatever fired. But like I said, it's not that difficult to reset the module with the right tools, and it sounds like whoever repaired/rebuilt the car after the accident either reset or replaced the module. It's not something Joe Blow in his backyard can do, and insurance companies will generally push for a new SRS control module instead of resetting. But you CAN reset them. If the pretensioners had fired, and the seat belts hadn't been replaced, it would be throwing codes for the pretensioners. As for warranty, Honda is one of the only companies that does a lifetime seatbelt warranty (much to the chagrin of dealers that wind up servicing 90-93 Integras, 90-91 Accords, and other models that had those loving motorized seatbelts). I wouldn't sweat the seatbelts on a 13 year old car not being under warranty anymore. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:24 on May 3, 2019 |
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May 3, 2019 07:15
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My own question, and probably pretty specific, at least to 2nd gen Avalons. 2003 Toyota Avalon. Tach seems to "stick", sometimes "jump" - that's the best way to describe it. If it's revved in neutral, it'll hang in one spot, then jump way up, then twitch its way back down. Same if you stomp it while driving. I'm assuming this is the stepper motor for the tach taking a poo poo? The car runs fine otherwise, and if you stomp it, it pulls as hard as an 80s/early 90s 200hp V6 can pull through every gear, so I doubt this is being caused by a failing cam or crank position sensor; the CEL is on, but it's only spitting out evap codes. If it's the tach, can I just drop another 02-03 cluster in, or will it need programming? Alternatively, is the stepper motor easy to replace? The odometer is physically separate from the cluster on the 02-03, so there's no odometer programming needed. It drives pretty much like it's brand new, aside from a few squeaks and rattles. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:10 on May 3, 2019 |
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May 3, 2019 09:06
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This '93 petrol LiteAce is my first car with a carb (owned plenty of bikes with them), and I think I'm doing cold starts wrong. I've read a few articles/comments but just wound up more confused. I tap the pedal all the way down to engage the automatic choke, then release and start the car. Cranks up just fine... it starts running OK (at that higher, choke rpm) then it slows down a sort of "pulsating" rythm and gets more violent, which shakes the vehicle a fair bit. It eventually smooths out after a couple of minutes or so and starts running normally. Recently however, it has started stalling at idle after doing this, where it didn't before. Once I've been driving for 5 minutes or so, it has no problem idling. On the other hand, I've found that if I engage the automatic choke, then just give it some gas a few times before the slowdown/pulsating happens it sounds pretty happy idling. I let it warm up for a few minutes then I'm OK. Was I doing it wrong before, or is there something wrong with the carbie and this is just a workaround?
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May 3, 2019 10:46
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STR posted:My own question, and probably pretty specific, at least to 2nd gen Avalons. I have the same engine, same gearbox, so Wikipedia tells me (different car though, 2000 Toyota Estima). But unfortunately I am not very good with cars so I don't think I can be of much help. You say the tach sticks, I'm guessing from what you say you can hear the revs increasing and it's just the needle? My gearbox can hang if I switch from D to 2 when I want some engine braking down a hill (a good couple of seconds before it changes and then the next change back to D will be really delayed too) which I know isn't your issue but it's the closest I can think of that I've experienced. As you are far more knowledgeable than me can I ask what you'd do if your overdrive shat the bed and died? I posted before a link to a document describing a shift test but had no idea were to look on the car. The Estima was Japan-only, so getting documentation in English is a real nightmare. I'm trying to cobble together what I can from Camry manuals with the same drivetrain, but stuff like the fuse panels are located and laid out completely differently Also I didn't know cluster diagnostics were a thing, but it makes sense. How would you do one on your Avalon, I'd like to try on my Estima? simplefish fucked around with this message at 11:04 on May 3, 2019 |
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May 3, 2019 11:02
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STR posted:A lot of helpful information. Thanks! I'm going back today and if they haven't checked if it's the bulb/led I'll try to take a look.
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May 3, 2019 12:43
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2014 Civic. I had to replace the battery about two years ago, and it seems to be dying again. After jump starting, I took my car to AutoZone and had them test the battery. Battery, starter, and alternator was fine, but I still had to jump start it after a couple days. Then I took it to Advance Auto parts, but their test came back normal as well. I got back a couple hours ago. Car is starting fine, but I have a feeling I'll need to jump it again soon. I seem to need to press on the gas a bit more to accelerate. When the car didn't start, the dash and head lights turned on, but the car made a clicking sound when I turned the key. That sounds exactly like a dead battery to me. What else could it be? Also Advance wouldn't honor the 3-year warranty on their battery. 
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May 3, 2019 17:26
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Jake Snake posted:2014 Civic. I had to replace the battery about two years ago, and it seems to be dying again. After jump starting, I took my car to AutoZone and had them test the battery. Battery, starter, and alternator was fine, but I still had to jump start it after a couple days. Then I took it to Advance Auto parts, but their test came back normal as well. Well, the car is consuming more power than it's generating, so either it's the battery, the alternator, or the connection between the two. If you're sure both endpoints are good, then you have a corroded electrical connection between them somewhere (most likely the battery terminal) limiting current flow, or you have a slipping belt keeping the alternator from turning fast enough.
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May 3, 2019 17:43
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Jake Snake posted:2014 Civic. I had to replace the battery about two years ago, and it seems to be dying again. After jump starting, I took my car to AutoZone and had them test the battery. Battery, starter, and alternator was fine, but I still had to jump start it after a couple days. Then I took it to Advance Auto parts, but their test came back normal as well. Carry out a drain test
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May 3, 2019 21:28
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fridge corn posted:Carry out a drain test I'm so proud of you. <3
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May 3, 2019 21:36
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meatpimp posted:I'm so proud of you. <3 I'm not sure what for but thank you! 
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May 3, 2019 22:37
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Ram van/318 as usual: Chirpy/squeaky noise from the engine that scales with rpm. I'm told it's the water pump's warning of near-term future demise. Accurate? If so how much of a pain is it on this engine to replace?
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May 3, 2019 22:47
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Swapping brake lines on my 04 forester xt and my flare but snapped the line off. Currently brake fluid is draining into a bucket and will likely drain all out over night. https://i.imgur.com/Wz23mGe.jpg I've never flared a line before and this looks like a tuff spot to get into. It's the rear brake. Is it hard to do or should I have it hauled to the mechanic? My other rear line but (other side) is frozen on. stgdz fucked around with this message at 04:58 on May 4, 2019 |
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May 4, 2019 04:52
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An inline flaring tool should be able to do that in-place easy. A bar-style tool, if it is in like-new shape, could do it but will be unwieldy as gently caress.
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May 4, 2019 05:15
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simplefish posted:I have the same engine, same gearbox, so Wikipedia tells me (different car though, 2000 Toyota Estima). But unfortunately I am not very good with cars so I don't think I can be of much help. You say the tach sticks, I'm guessing from what you say you can hear the revs increasing and it's just the needle? No cluster diagnostics on the Avalon, I doubt they exist on your Estima too. If overdrive poo poo the bed, I'd just put it in 3 and drive it until the gearbox dies entirely; it should still shift fine up to 3rd gear. Could be a bad solenoid, but automatics are black magic to me. And yeah, the engine is physically revving, while the tach will stick for about half a second, then jerk to where it's really supposed to be, then hang again, then jerk again. It looks like, to my untrained eye, like the stepper motor is sticking or dying. Javid posted:Chirpy/squeaky noise from the engine that scales with rpm. I'm told it's the water pump's warning of near-term future demise. Accurate? If so how much of a pain is it on this engine to replace? Pretty typical RWD V8 replacement, just cramped because it's a van. Remove fan and clutch (which will require removing the shroud, if it's still there), remove belt, remove pump. Take the belt off and spin each pulley by hand though. An idler/tensioner pulley often does that, if you have one. Whatever doesn't spin smoothly, or has play, is the culprit. Water pumps tend to start weeping before they get to where they're making noise too, so look for coolant on the bottom of it.
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May 4, 2019 07:04
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Anyone know how long should I leave my 2005 VW Golf mk5 1.9 diesel running idle to be sure the battery is charged before checking the fuses to see if/where it's draining when not in use (or whether the battery/alternator might be hosed up)?
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May 4, 2019 17:10
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