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long-rear end nips Diane posted:All the time, which is why I have a million half-finished projects and armies They're not half-finished armies, they're just Kill Teams!
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May 8, 2019 18:42
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ijyt posted:Wait I thought you were actually joking. Nope, check out guy on the left, it works well for me. 
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May 8, 2019 18:43
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richyp posted:Yeah I usually change army/chapter/game halfway through painting a unit of something. Every so many reboots i'll scrape everything into a shame box and start again and pretend I have no outstanding poo poo to do. Oh, I'm not alone? I started my Dark Imperium Primaris as Iron Hawks, then Genesis Chapter, now I'm considering Flesh Tearers or Mortifactors. The largest batch is seven Iron Hawk intercessors. I've got a shitload of Simple Green for when I settle on a chapter.
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May 8, 2019 19:32
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Gunder posted:Do you guys ever find yourselves looking forward to painting a new colour or type of model? For me, it's recently been the Librarian power armour that uses that amazing Kantor Blue. It's such a nice, rich colour. Looks really nice when you edge highlight it too. That's why I started these Van Saar. I was sick of painting purple armor.
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May 8, 2019 20:01
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Eifert Posting posted:Nope, check out guy on the left, it works well for me. Your stuff is great, I'm just surprised that the priming method works.
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May 8, 2019 20:35
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Eifert Posting posted:Nope, check out guy on the left, it works well for me. That reminds me, how do you get such stark black-lining? Painting in the recesses directly it seems like it would still take a ton of coats to fix any mistakes, and your stuff is super clean and awesome.
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May 8, 2019 21:16
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I change between armies and half finish poo poo constantly but I always want to make space wolves which means I've always go that big army that continues to grow while other things get shelved, boxed or displayed but never really finished as an army.
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May 9, 2019 00:09
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Booyah- posted:That reminds me, how do you get such stark black-lining? Painting in the recesses directly it seems like it would still take a ton of coats to fix any mistakes, and your stuff is super clean and awesome. Citadel inks, washes, and a ton of coats to fix any mistakes. Each infantry model is about 6 hours minimum VVVIt's 2/1 flow improver or so.VVV Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 03:14 on May 9, 2019 |
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May 9, 2019 02:18
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How do you spray gesso without gumming up the airbrush?
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May 9, 2019 03:09
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Finally got around to applying washes to the Primaris Dreadnought. It, uh, looks more dynamic, at the cost of looking a bit overly dirty in some spots (which I plan to cover up with Mephiston Red, or maybe Evil Sunz Scarlet, depending on the area)        Going to apply some more Strong Tone to a couple of red areas I missed, along with an extra coat of black shade on the arm joints. Then I'm going to apply the Reikland Fleshshade on the gold, and the Seraphim Sepia on the banner. If you think I did anything wrong with the shade application, please let me know.
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May 9, 2019 03:38
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Well, lemme just put things in perspective for ya. Not even a year ago, your first completed mini was this guy  and just about a year later you've cranked out this behemoth You've make a lot of progress so far, and you should be proud of that. You're able to recognize where you need to go back and fix things, you've got the brush control to not be splashing colors where they shouldn't be, you got a lot of the basic stuff down. Be proud of that. Now, since you specifically asked for shade criticism. I know the "usual" way of shading rivets is to just dab a little shade over the whole thing, since they're so small. However, in the fourth picture, there's a few rivets on the right side that had a little too much shade get put on them. Also, it wouldn't hurt to figure out which direction you want to have your light source come from, and shade the rivets based on that. For example, if you want the light to be coming from straight above, I'd say to come from underneath the model and dab the rivets that way (so most of the shade is underneath the rivets), and have very little shading on the top-most rivets. If you wanna change it up, and have the light coming from somewhere above and to the right, you'd end up with shadows leaning towards the left, and should apply shade appropriately. You can grab a lamp and an orange (or other spherical-ish object) and fart around with changing the angle of the light to see how the shadow changes with it. Also, there's the front panels underneath the gold and banner that have probably a touch too much shade, but that's easily fixed by going back over with the red.I wouldn't say get rid of it entirely, just tighten it up, probably by half. That's the major stuff that stands out to me, outside of some of the paint rubbing off around the corners and edges of stuff (unless that's some edge highlighting/weathering, in which case keep that the gently caress up as it's super tight lines).
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May 9, 2019 05:16
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Serenade posted:How do you spray gesso without gumming up the airbrush? I thought airbrush gesso was a joke.
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May 9, 2019 05:40
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I still refuse to believe it. Stynylrez is right there for the taking. 
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May 9, 2019 07:56
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God Stynylrez is so good. I used the black for the first time in forever recently and it just goes on like velvet. Hnnuurggh.
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May 9, 2019 08:27
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I just tried stynylrez for the first time a couple weeks ago and... I dont like it. It's a super nice primer and it goes on incredibly smooth and thin, but I like the no hassle coverage of surface primer way more.
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May 9, 2019 12:57
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I still use my surface primer stash from time to time, but I'm not sure I'd describe it as hassle free. The most bothersome thing about Stynylrez is remembering how to spell it.
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May 9, 2019 13:32
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Someone mentioned a while ago a badger tool to get the two circular parts of the "cap" part of my sotar 2020 apart but for the life of me I can't find it, any idea what this thing is called or where i can get it?
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May 9, 2019 13:39
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ijyt posted:I still refuse to believe it. Okay, and I'm going to let you finish, but my gesso container is something I bought in 2008 and still probably two-thirds full.  Since I've owned this pot: I've graduated college Visited enough countries that I'm not actually sure how many, lived in 3 Been married Experienced ~4 near death experiences Had ~6 jobs Gotten blackout drunk due to positive and negative reactions to a general election Still have never used a sharpie on a model Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 00:32 on May 10, 2019 |
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May 10, 2019 00:28
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I used to use gesso when brush priming, it worked ok. The airbrush part is blowing my mind though.
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May 10, 2019 00:32
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Stynlrez is sooo much better than any other priming method I've tried. You can go from bare plastic to ready to paint in like 10 or 15 minutes and it's nearly impossible to screw up unless you're actively trying to. Rattle can or brush on always felt like a crap shoot whether I would get a good prime or not, but now I get a good prime literally 100% of the time. Vallejo primer through an airbrush was also a big step up but in my experience it wasn't quite as durable or quick drying as stynlrez.
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May 10, 2019 00:49
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I can't imagine anything being easier than running Vallejo grey primer through an airbrush outside of a literal wizard's wand or staff.
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May 10, 2019 01:05
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I'm doing this for ~30 marines but I don't have corks. Checked my local online markets with no luck. Are there any other materials I should try before buying a case of wine?
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May 10, 2019 01:26
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Places like Hobby Lobby sell containers full of wine corks for suburban mom decorating. Hardware stores can also have bottle corks
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May 10, 2019 01:56
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goodness posted:I'm doing this for ~30 marines but I don't have corks. Checked my local online markets with no luck. You just need corks? Premium Recycled Corks, Natural Wine Corks From Around the US - 50 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XZ54BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0Wm1Cb1MN7X9R
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May 10, 2019 01:56
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goodness posted:Are there any other materials I should try before buying a case of wine? Seriously, though, when I was in your boat I just told all my wine-drinking friends or in-laws, "hey, I'm working on a craft project - could you please save your wine corks for me?" Inside two weeks I had corks coming out my ears.
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May 10, 2019 02:16
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goodness posted:I'm doing this for ~30 marines but I don't have corks. Checked my local online markets with no luck. Brewing supply stores.
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May 10, 2019 03:13
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Bad Munki posted:You just need corks? I get champagne corks from Amazon, the flared bases make them stand up better than narrow wine corks.
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May 10, 2019 05:43
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JBP posted:I can't imagine anything being easier than running Vallejo grey primer through an airbrush outside of a literal wizard's wand or staff. Stynylrez black and grey are a wizards wand and staff.
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May 10, 2019 08:23
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Cross posting:
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May 10, 2019 14:36
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross posting: Dayum, that's nice.
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May 10, 2019 15:55
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I miss painting armour. Big bits of metal. What cool models have you guys picked up/put on your wishlists recently that feature big suits of armour? I have a couple of boxes of historical minis from a company I cant remember the name of, that I bought to practice on. Super excited to put those together and start painting them one exams are over 
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May 10, 2019 16:51
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Marzipan Pig posted:I miss painting armour. Big bits of metal. What cool models have you guys picked up/put on your wishlists recently that feature big suits of armour? Space Marines.
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May 10, 2019 17:14
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Marzipan Pig posted:I miss painting armour. Big bits of metal. What cool models have you guys picked up/put on your wishlists recently that feature big suits of armour? Stormcasts.
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May 10, 2019 17:22
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Marzipan Pig posted:I miss painting armour. Big bits of metal. What cool models have you guys picked up/put on your wishlists recently that feature big suits of armour? Ironjawz. Mix it with a box of Nobz or whatever for 40k.
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May 10, 2019 18:13
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So that new GW paint is called contrast. They market it as a basecoat, shade and highlight all in a single coat.
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May 11, 2019 14:13
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Yeah, it's using a new undercoat as well, one that does it's own pseudo pre-shading and provides a low tension finish for the paint to go over. I sincerely doubt it'll match what you can do with normal effort techniques, but it looks like it might just be phenomenal for "I want this to squad look okay and be done in an evening." Obviously for things like Tyranids, Skaven, and Lizardmen this might actually be revolutionary.
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May 11, 2019 14:40
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Yeast posted:After the latest GW video on YouTube, I’m now convinced they’re making an army painter style dip. Lmao
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May 11, 2019 15:01
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Yeah, it's using a new undercoat as well, one that does it's own pseudo pre-shading and provides a low tension finish for the paint to go over. I think it's a great idea, especially when combined with other techniques.
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May 11, 2019 15:02
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Has anyone seen the quality of the Tomb of Annihilation Board Game minis as compared to the 4E board games’ minis (as in Legend of Drizzt, Wrath of Asharwhatever, Castle Ravenloft, and Temple of Elemental Evil)? I got those 4 for super cheap, but I noticed that Elemental Evil, while still of similar quality to the other three, reused the “Icons of the Realm” figures I already had and were just slightly different overall (no real complaints, I got lots of bandits and cultists and can do fun different paints on the heroes). Amazon reviews (which are bleh) seem to imply that the scale is off in the ToA minis compared to the other games, but if that just means oversized guys like dragons aren’t huge and the majority of them are regular-sized, that’s absolutely fine by me. I’ll just have some little dragons.
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May 11, 2019 15:07
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99 CENTS AMIGO posted:Has anyone seen the quality of the Tomb of Annihilation Board Game minis as compared to the 4E board games’ minis (as in Legend of Drizzt, Wrath of Asharwhatever, Castle Ravenloft, and Temple of Elemental Evil)? I own all these and the scale is the same. Only model out of any of these sets that is smaller than it should be (for practical reasons I'd imagine) is the flying black dragon in one of the game's.
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May 11, 2019 15:26
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