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Is there not enough room to get a prybar in there? Or a long thick flathead screwdriver?Geoj posted:Alternatively, remove the PS half shaft (should be held in by a bearing) and tap the driver side axle out with a center punch through the differential. Depending on the trans, that's a good way to have the diff assembly fall down within the case, making for a much, much longer day. I know Honda and Getrag gearboxes aren't a fan of having both shafts removed.
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May 27, 2019 05:31
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Ahh so there is where the F78 LWB change comes from, at the B pillar. You can use a Feroza/Rocky rear door to make the top removable with the rear glass. Verman posted:It needs more teal and maybe "4x4" written in the purple line. You mean like mine? No Solo Jazz livery though  DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 05:44 on May 27, 2019 |
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May 27, 2019 05:42
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brand engager posted:I could if the shaft that holds the pinion gears didnt run right through the center of the diff STR posted:Depending on the trans, that's a good way to have the diff assembly fall down within the case, making for a much, much longer day. I know Honda and Getrag gearboxes aren't a fan of having both shafts removed. OTC 7140 is a purpose-made tool specifically for this application, however, I would contend with a small enough center punch you can accomplish the same thing without having to spend $50 on a unitasker.
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May 27, 2019 06:27
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STR posted:Depending on the trans, that's a good way to have the diff assembly fall down within the case, making for a much, much longer day. I know Honda and Getrag gearboxes aren't a fan of having both shafts removed. My rule of thumb is all of them. Take an axle shaft off and if you are going to pull the other take precautions. Cheapie trick is to use a deep well socket that fit in as close as possible.
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May 27, 2019 15:03
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C-Bangin' it 
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Looked up the disassembly/reassembly instructions for the transmission and it looks like there are preloaded bearings holding the diff in place even without the output shafts installed. Also doesn't look like theres any room for the diff to move around in the case
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May 27, 2019 18:33
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Also setting preload looks like hell so I dont want to open that case unless I absolutely have to    
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May 27, 2019 19:01
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Still cant get the drat thing loose. I got the puller thing but it doesnt fit over my 4x100m bolt pattern. I also got a set of three-jaw pullers in 75mm, 100mm, 150mm, and 200mm. I tried using the 100mm on it but one of the jaws started to bend.  
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May 27, 2019 22:53
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heat the bitch up. alternatively, if you have a canned duster, hold it upside down and freeze the spindle.
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May 27, 2019 23:21
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Seconding get some heat on it
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May 27, 2019 23:39
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May 28, 2019 00:20
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I've got a 1400W heat gun and thats about it. I don't know anything about torches
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May 28, 2019 01:53
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brand engager posted:I've got a 1400W heat gun and thats about it. I don't know anything about torches Try the double ball peen method. Only requires one ball peen. Put the ball part in the center of the axle. Take another hammer and whack the face of the ball peen. Thus driving a good impact to the center of the axle. I have seen it work miracles. I have also been defeated by many ford axles of that era. Also try soaking it in old trans fluid over night. And if all else fails pull the axle and knuckle together and re install it together.
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May 28, 2019 02:38
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brand engager posted:Still cant get the drat thing loose. I got the puller thing but it doesnt fit over my 4x100m bolt pattern. I also got a set of three-jaw pullers in 75mm, 100mm, 150mm, and 200mm. I tried using the 100mm on it but one of the jaws started to bend. It looks like you already soaked it in penetrating lubricant, but man that gouge in the top left just above the slot where you peen in the nut lol makes me nervous. It looks like someone knocked the stud out and took a grinder to the nut in a previous life.
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May 28, 2019 02:43
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Yeah I had cut into the retainer on opposite sides to weaken it. Those are strong enough that I could jump on the breaker bar like a trampoline without it loosening at all.
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May 28, 2019 03:14
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camera rig is all set:
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May 28, 2019 05:45
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MC Hawking posted:Today's mission: learn how to replace McPherson struts. Out with the OEM, in with KyB. This job went shockingly smooth. I learned a lot and am much more confident about similar jobs in the future. Moreover I found a simple truth I had not know: having a big honking compressor and impact kit is a godsend for bulky jobs. Also make sure you have good quality torque wrenches. My greybeards kit is twenty five years old but he got top quality at the time and it shows.
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May 28, 2019 05:46
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Not that big a job and no cool pictures but I have to vent a bit. Replaced the drivers side door handle cable on my daughter's 05 Kia Spectra. This was a huge pain in the rear end especially considering I don't have the smallest hands and it requires a fair bit of working inside the door. After a lot of sweating and swearing along with a few cuts on my hands I finally got it replaced. It was then that I realized that the cable retaining clip by the door handle was broken too and the replacement cable didn't come with any of those. This is not the fun part of working on cars.
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May 28, 2019 05:55
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I always imagined the people on the assembly line doing regulators and the like were lowest seniority.
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May 28, 2019 13:07
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I go the "new" motor and regulator assembly for the 4Runner's tailgate off ebay. The description said "works as it should", which seemed rather generous to me when I got it. A couple of the linkages were bent (not terribly, but enough I needed to bend them back) and it was a bit crusty. I cleaned up the rust, grease, and dust and re-greased it. I pulled the motor off the old regulator to see what was going on. I think I found why it wouldn't move the window or hold it up:  I think there was enough play it just started chewing its way through the drive gear until it had that a nice deep channel and no bite. Part of the play might have come from the motor missing a mounting bolt, part of it might have come from the regulator missing one of its mounting bolt. Sadly, the new regulator assembly was also missing a motor mounting bolt. I tried getting one it there, but it was pretty well chowdered and the aluminum body cracked off in that part when I tried to get another bolt in there. I mounted it with the remaining two, which seem to hold it fine, and added zip ties to help mitigate any additional motion. I'm sure I'll have to replace the motor again in the not to distant future, but for now, this works (or add on a bit of metal and tap a new hole, but that is equipment I did not have on me). New assembly in place with the glass installed (bright pink zip ties visible on the drive motor):  Success! https://i.imgur.com/oG2JAct.gifv On the down side, the door lock does not seem to properly engage and the "Back Door" light on the dash is now on. It did go off after pressing the lock down a bit. I'm sure it's just a linkage that is bent or needs slight adjustment and a limit switch that just isn't being depressed. I don't think it will be bad to correct, I just need to pop the trim off again.
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May 28, 2019 13:37
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Had a slightly busy weekend fighting to get work done before the DayStar took over. Wrar came over and brought his welder. It was enough to put the fear of god into a broken captive nut, and it came off with a hand wrench and vice grips. With that out of the way it was 10 minutes to replace the passenger rear shock/spring, and now the civic has new KYB quickstruts at each corner. Sunday morning I decided to try my hand at applying window tint. gently caress window tint. I do not want to take the time to get a competent skill level at tinting. gently caress tinting forever and ever. Amen.  I'll pay the shop around the corner from me $200 to do it right.
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May 28, 2019 16:16
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i tried tinting my rsx once and came to the same conclusion
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May 28, 2019 19:15
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brand engager posted:Yeah I had cut into the retainer on opposite sides to weaken it. Those are strong enough that I could jump on the breaker bar like a trampoline without it loosening at all. Leaning towards you might want to pick up the tool I referenced above - OTC 7140
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May 28, 2019 19:43
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This is a hells of satisfying fix 
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May 28, 2019 21:44
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Finally got my car put back together and started some e-tuning. I think I am going to like this new turbo setup (until I get bored and want more power). Output from the log below. Feels good after the car was apart for about a month and a half. Damage posted in the VW/Audi thread: Initial problem and Update Log data: https://datazap.me/u/mrtrunks84/eqt-ihx475-91-103-tune?log=0&data=1-13-22-34 Hoping for 400+ whp on 91 Octane and 4K ft. of elevation. E85 would be awesome but I don't have easy access to the stuff out here in Utah. This car really scoots, just got to get better at shifting quick with this upgraded clutch. I probably should have went with a twin disc setup. Build details: 2016 Golf R with a built bottom end and upgraded valve springs. Hybrid turbo with bolt-ons.
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May 28, 2019 21:48
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A Golf with 400 WHP sounds insane. I like it.
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May 28, 2019 23:07
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Earlier today I remembered that dry ice exists. If the grocery stores near me still sell it, I could cool down the shaft then use the heat gun on the hub.
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May 29, 2019 00:35
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brand engager posted:Earlier today I remembered that dry ice exists. If the grocery stores near me still sell it, I could cool down the shaft then use the heat gun on the hub. Buy a mapp gas torch for like $35. Muuuuuch more effective than a heat gun
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May 29, 2019 00:53
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The Door Frame posted:Buy a mapp gas torch for like $35. Muuuuuch more effective than a heat gun Oh great. Now we will have ten pages discussing how current mapp gas is not the same from ten years ago.
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May 29, 2019 01:03
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 One hose went pop last night and the drivers side of the Stagea engine bay was now a steamy coolant rain forest. Took me a while to locate this split bastard.  Of course nowhere locally has a direct replacement so I've got a meter of heater hose to work with and hopefully that's the one one that needs fixing atm. (I'm sure there'll be others soon enough...)
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May 29, 2019 07:23
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Sunday but still counts. Got the snorkel on and took off the crash bar plastic, plus got the plug gaps checked to prep for Ford Nationals. Quick wash and detail after, then wrapped her up to protect the fresh detail from the hell of I83. Also put on a stupid licence plate bracket that makes me laugh.   
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May 29, 2019 12:05
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That sure is something
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May 29, 2019 13:37
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I found out why, after installing the "new" regulator in the 4Runner the "Back Door" light was on and the door lock wouldn't go down. Here's a zoomed in shot of the latch/lock mechanism from the one I received:  This is how they are supposed to look:  That taller post was supposed to be on the other side of that shorter post. That shorter post is a rod that is actuated by that spring loaded arm, which is itself pushed by the drive gear when it reaches the bottom of its travel. That rod in the top picture coming in from the lower right is from the lock. With how everything was oriented It couldn't push down and engage that lock post and because the lock post (that taller one) was jammed in the up position by the smaller post, that switch was constantly being pressed, making it think it wasn't fully closed. After getting the regulator back out of the tailgate, I was able to straighten out that spring loaded arm/plate thing as it was a bit bent and was then able to just barely pry the lock post plate thingy over that shorter post. The position switch also seemed to be bent out of shape. I swapped in the old switch. Everything reinstalled and working exactly as it should.
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May 29, 2019 14:24
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vulturesrow posted:Not that big a job and no cool pictures but I have to vent a bit. Replaced the drivers side door handle cable on my daughter's 05 Kia Spectra. This was a huge pain in the rear end especially considering I don't have the smallest hands and it requires a fair bit of working inside the door. After a lot of sweating and swearing along with a few cuts on my hands I finally got it replaced. It was then that I realized that the cable retaining clip by the door handle was broken too and the replacement cable didn't come with any of those. This is not the fun part of working on cars. Can confirm that the end at the latch mechanism is a pain ('08 Spec5.) The clip on ours broke, too. I have spares from various junkyard trips but none fit tightly enough for the force behind pulling the latch. One I had was up to working the lock mechanism, though, so I put it there and stole the clip off of the lock for the door handle. At least the OEM actuator cable is cheap. I think I spent in the neighborhood of $15? I also bought an assortment of cable/rod clips, but have yet to gather the energy to pull the door panel yet again. sneakyfrog posted:i tried tinting my rsx once and came to the same conclusion I got good results on the side glass of my RX-7, by being super-anal about it (and removing the door glass completely), but a) the tint I had access to then was Gila, and is now therefore dark purple, and b) I made exactly one stab at the compound-curved rear hatch glass and threw my hands up. Likewise, I did the side glass on my Cutlass, with better ceramic tint, but somehow messed up one - it's bubbling now - and there is no way I'm going even try to do the 1000 sq. ft. rear fastback glass. I mean, look at that glass:  The package tray is 14" deep! I'll let someone else handle that. After I replace the passenger rear quarter.  Not a potato phone. Potato scan of a print from a potato film camera. edit: huh, lost a paragraph there somewhere. Fixed. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:53 on May 29, 2019 |
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May 29, 2019 17:50
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Night Danger Moose posted:Sunday but still counts. Got the snorkel on and took off the crash bar plastic, plus got the plug gaps checked to prep for Ford Nationals. Quick wash and detail after, then wrapped her up to protect the fresh detail from the hell of I83. Also put on a stupid licence plate bracket that makes me laugh. Are you selling a motorcycle in the DR bu any chance? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973065&pagenumber=620&perpage=40#post495379046
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May 29, 2019 21:53
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Elviscat posted:Are you selling a motorcycle in the DR bu any chance? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973065&pagenumber=620&perpage=40#post495379046 Ha, nice. I dunno I just thought it was silly. I'll probably change it out for something else in a few months.
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May 29, 2019 22:12
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 I went through with the grandpa spec rims for my fiesta st. It rides so, so, so much better now, but still corners like a champ. And I supposedly lost 10lbs a corner of unsprung weight. Feels amazing, everyone that isn't a pure track day bro should downsize an inch on their rims. The sidewall is invaluable.
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May 29, 2019 23:35
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im somewhat tempted. what kinda rubber you got on it?
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May 29, 2019 23:45
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Firehawk indy 500 in 195/55/r16 90 bucks a corner, and you get about 8% more contact patch for the trouble. E: these https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires....romCompare1=yes
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May 29, 2019 23:51
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my only trepidation would be not being able to fit upgraded brakes on it
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May 29, 2019 23:55
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Apparently the wildwood BBK *can* clear *some* 16 inch rims. I hadn't even thought of that, but in daily driving I haven't found a scenario where I couldn't lock up all four tires stock. Brake fade/bigger brakes is more of a problem for the track, imo. You gonna track it? I've been thinking about it, but I've got to look into all the nonsense inherent first.
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May 30, 2019 00:06
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