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lol https://twitter.com/amanbatheja/status/1133088960077545472?s=19
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May 27, 2019 20:30
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As someone in Texas: holy gently caress People are going to die from this. Probably homeowners who think they're hiring a professional. Or renters when the landlord or managing company finds the cheapest guy on Craigslist. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:44 on May 27, 2019 |
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May 27, 2019 22:23
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Think of how much more freedom you'll have now! "Gub'min' telling me I cain't make drane pipes f'um ducktap an' terlet paper toobs".
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May 28, 2019 12:00
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I'm sure developers are celebrating hard
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May 28, 2019 13:13
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So on the topic of idiot plumbing decisions, I plan on replacing my old rear end 52 inch cast iron tub with a 54 inch soaker. It's in an alcove with limited space or I would do a 60 inch model. To put in a 54 inch model, I will need to move the left wall back a bit causing me to need to move the drain plumbing, which is all galvanized. See bad diagram:  My thought is the easiest method would be cut off the pipe in the exposed area before the right turn/p-trap and replace everything up to the tub with PVC. Is there a suggested best method/tool for cutting galvanized pipe? Space is limited, but I should have some room to work when I take down the wall.
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May 28, 2019 15:55
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In order of ease of use if you have room to fit the tool: handheld bandsaw, pipe cutter, sawzall, angle grinder, hacksaw.
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May 28, 2019 18:06
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Correct me if Im wrong, but wasn't Texas pretty lax about licensing to begin with? From my understanding only the owner of the company had to hold a license. Here in Michigan there has to be at least one licensed journeyman plumber for every 2 apprentices/helpers on every job.
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May 28, 2019 19:20
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The shuttering of the agency does away with the master/journeyman/apprentice track requirements and from what I'm reading you will take an online test with no hands on component or work history requirement and then either be PLUMBER=YES or PLUMBER=NO. So as lax as it currently is, it's about to be much worse. Like you ever see the jobs professional "handymen" do? Those guys will now easily be able to be equal to previously master plumbers in the States eyes. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 28, 2019 |
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May 28, 2019 19:50
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SpartanIvy posted:The shuttering of the agency does away with the master/journeyman/apprentice track requirements and from what I'm reading you will take an online test with no hands on component or work history requirement and then either be PLUMBER=YES or PLUMBER=NO. Our J-man test here changed to online only 2 years ago. 100 questions on a computer with no hands on work test. Old timers were pissed. But yea I work in service, I see handyman hacks all day every day lol
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May 28, 2019 19:58
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The plumbing in my Condo is going to be all replaced in the not too distant future. As I have mentioned before it consists of Kitec piping which gained a reputation for sudden and catastrophic failure. While I'm getting that poo poo done, I'd like to get my shower faucet replaced. Consensus on here is don't buy home depot poo poo go to an actual plumbing supply store for that poo poo. I live in the Poverty spec 1 bedroom, 1 bath ground floor shoe box and most likely have the cheapest or second cheapest shower faucet that Kohler makes. Its the type with the single knob/mixing valve shits and then the tub spout has a diverter valve. I want to upgrade that poo poo, since its the only thing tap/faucet wise that I'm pretty much positive I couldn't do myself since it probably requires opening up a wall and soldering and whatnot. All my other faucets are accessible from under the counter. What brands should I be looking at? I'm a cheap, broke oval office, but I'm willing to spend a couple hundred more for something that I won't have to worry about for a long time.
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May 28, 2019 21:35
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wesleywillis posted:The plumbing in my Condo is going to be all replaced in the not too distant future. As I have mentioned before it consists of Kitec piping which gained a reputation for sudden and catastrophic failure. Get something from Moen with a lifetime warranty and replaceable cartridge. It's going to be a couple hundred dollars. Home depot does sell them, but you have to go to the "other" section of parts that isn't their chrome-builder-standard-$50-glacier-bay unit. Looks like ~$200ish gets it done skimming their website, otherwise a plumbing fixture store can steer you in the right direction. "I want something that is functional and durable, but not luxury or chrome-builder-standard, a nice mid-line model." If they upsell you to a $600 fixture you can always leave. Delta is another brand that is good.
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May 29, 2019 17:44
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Relatively new to me house and it looks like the pressure relief valve on one of the water heaters(there're 2!) is bad, it's got a slow but steady leak. Looks like something I can replace myself easily enough but first a question, is it true that draining a water heater that's never been drained before may result in it developing leaks once whatever sediment has been sitting at the bottom for years is cleared out? Leaking relief valve or not I was thinking I'd drain them both now that it's summer but the water heaters are at least 7 years old and it would not surprise me at all to learn the previous owner never drained them.
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May 29, 2019 22:38
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Does your house have a pressure reducing valve? Have you checked the pressure on the house's water system to make sure that relief valve is actually leaking and not, you know, relieving excess pressure?
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May 29, 2019 22:42
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I'm thinking about making some diy waterproof match cases as gifts. Something like this  I'm thinking some 3/4" Schedule 40 Aluminum pipe would work well for the body. Any suggestions for a permanent cap on the bottom and for a removable lid for the top?
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May 29, 2019 23:42
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Bad Munki posted:Does your house have a pressure reducing valve? Have you checked the pressure on the house's water system to make sure that relief valve is actually leaking and not, you know, relieving excess pressure? Yes I've checked the water pressure and in fact pressure in the houses plumbing is lower than I'd like. We're on a well with a booster pump pressurizing the houses plumbing instead of a large pressure tank, and I'm not impressed with it and eventually plan on having it replaced.
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May 29, 2019 23:55
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I'm thinking about making some diy waterproof match cases as gifts. Not sure what you're looking to do here but what you posted is accomplished is with a lathe. Anything you make out of miscellaneous parts that you can't turn down is going to be.......interesting.
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May 30, 2019 04:43
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Motronic posted:Not sure what you're looking to do here but what you posted is accomplished is with a lathe. Anything you make out of miscellaneous parts that you can't turn down is going to be.......interesting. What do you mean by turn down? I'm thinking I will probably need to thread one end of the pipe for a removable cap. Right now I'm thinking the removable cap could be a brass garden hose cap, but I'm open to other ideas. I'm hoping I could epoxy a rubber plug cap on the bottom, you think that might work?
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May 30, 2019 16:28
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:What do you mean by turn down? Remove material using a lathe. I suppose it all depends on how professional of a look you are going for. But the thing you pictured was made probably entirely with a lathe, potentially other than the threading (which can be done on a lathe). If you're just looking to assemble parts you really just need to go to the hardware store. They can thread pipe, end caps exist that are threaded. Just use two of them, no need for something else on the "non removable" side, since you'd need a TIG weld it if you're choosing aluminum as the material. Don't be surprised if the materials and cost to thread these things is quadruple what you can pick them up for on AliExpress, and they will look a lot worse and not have the features (knurled handle for non-slip, a loop for a ring/lanyard). This just doesn't seem like something someone who doesn't have at least a mini lathe tries to make on their own.
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May 30, 2019 16:48
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Motronic posted:Remove material using a lathe. Yeah you're probably right about them not being with making, thanks for the advice
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May 30, 2019 17:02
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Elem7 posted:Snip Anyone? Obviously I've got to get the pressure relief valve replaced on the one heater but like I said this house has two and if this is an actual risk I probably won't drain the otherwise working fine second heater.
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Jun 1, 2019 20:20
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If it has that much corrosion it needs to be replaced, regardless because it's a time bomb to make a mess. IMO it's more likely that the drain valve develops a leak after being exercised.
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Jun 1, 2019 22:21
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Pretty sure I know the answer, but I'll sleep better hearing it from someone smarter than me. I just installed a brasscraft push-connect shutoff valve under my kitchen sink, and it isn't leaking, but the whole valve does spin freely on the pipe. I know sharkbite fittings do this, and this is a similar style fitting, so... probably fine?
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Jun 1, 2019 23:21
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Slugworth posted:Pretty sure I know the answer, but I'll sleep better hearing it from someone smarter than me. I just installed a brasscraft push-connect shutoff valve under my kitchen sink, and it isn't leaking, but the whole valve does spin freely on the pipe. I know sharkbite fittings do this, and this is a similar style fitting, so... probably fine? It's fine. They all do it.
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Jun 2, 2019 04:51
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I'm getting ready to replace a valve, and some fittings connected to my water heater. The original install used a ball valve intended for natural gas lines, not potable water, and didn't use any sort of dielectric fittings, so I'm getting all sorts of corrosion, that you can see in the picture. I planned to put on a brass union, brass nipple, new lead free threaded ball valve, and a brass adapter and connecting that to the existing copper line. Is there anything I should look out for when making this repair? I'm a little worried that with all this corrosion, that when I go to remove that union off the water heater, I'm going to break something, or have the threads fall off. I'd rather not replace the water heater just to make this repair. I can do minor plumbing work just fine, it's just dealing with old rusted out threaded fittings get me nervous that it will all fall apart once I get going. Any tips for something like this? https://imgur.com/WPRcr1e E: For some reason the picture wasn't showing up, so I linked it.
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Jun 5, 2019 16:11
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Bird in a Blender posted:I'm getting ready to replace a valve, and some fittings connected to my water heater. The original install used a ball valve intended for natural gas lines, not potable water, and didn't use any sort of dielectric fittings, so I'm getting all sorts of corrosion, that you can see in the picture. I planned to put on a brass union, brass nipple, new lead free threaded ball valve, and a brass adapter and connecting that to the existing copper line. Is there anything I should look out for when making this repair? I'm a little worried that with all this corrosion, that when I go to remove that union off the water heater, I'm going to break something, or have the threads fall off. I'd rather not replace the water heater just to make this repair. I can do minor plumbing work just fine, it's just dealing with old rusted out threaded fittings get me nervous that it will all fall apart once I get going. Any tips for something like this? Those are dielectric unions connected to the tank nipple. As you can see they worked great (sarcasm, many plumbers think they are trash but that's for another day). You shouldn't have any problems as long as the tank nipples are still in good shape, which they appear to be, and you can get that union off with out spinning the nipple out. Are you going to solder the new stuff in? Does that vent piping have rise on it? It's needs to be have pitch up and away from the heater. 1/4" per foot. It almost looks flat. If it is correct this ASAP. Also, put some screws in that vent piping though and get rid of the tape. Foil tape is not allowed on WH venting. BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 16:46
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I am going to solder the new stuff in. I have sweated copper a few times before, so I'm not really worried about the few fittings I'm going to do here. I'm getting a threaded valve though. The vent does have the correct pitch to it, but I do need to get the tape off and screw it.
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Jun 5, 2019 17:35
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You can buy a 2 pack of water heater dielectric nipples for like $12. Dielectric nipples are half the cost of brass and preferred by manufacturers due to the lining and heat trap. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Dielectric-Nipple-Heat-Trap-15009/205680991 BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 18:19
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BubbaGrace posted:Also, put some screws in that vent piping though and get rid of the tape. Foil tape is not allowed on WH venting. Really? The building inspector here suggested I tape all the water heater joints.
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Jun 5, 2019 23:43
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devicenull posted:Really? The building inspector here suggested I tape all the water heater joints. I don't know if foil is prohibited, but screws are required.
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Jun 5, 2019 23:51
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Screws are specifically NOT to be used if it's double walled B vent. Using screws in it undoes it's safety rating and it is then treated like single wall venting. And I have never heard of tape being used on exhaust venting fwiw
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Jun 6, 2019 01:02
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SpartanIvy posted:Screws are specifically NOT to be used if it's double walled B vent. Using screws in it undoes it's safety rating and it is then treated like single wall venting. Former code enforcement drop-in: "The cut sheet is the law." Many of these assemblies are UL approved, and that means the manufacturer instructions must be followed to meet code. That's literally how the code is written in most jurisdictions. Tape may be called for in double wall, as the outside temps will be low enough to make that a lasting solution to ensure your makeup air is coming from the outside rather than from leaky joints. Screws aren't something I've seen called for in modern single wall around here, as most have fastening systems that must be properly installed. Screws are obviously going to be a leak point after they have been subject to vibration for years and years, and tape isn't going to last due to exhaust temps.
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Jun 6, 2019 16:04
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Reflecting that it's been 17 years since a code guy told me to screw all my vents on water heaters for him, I probably shouldn't post without a caveat about that aspect of things. Heh
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Jun 6, 2019 16:54
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glynnenstein posted:Reflecting that it's been 17 years since a code guy told me to screw all my vents on water heaters for him, I probably shouldn't post without a caveat about that aspect of things. Heh It's entirely possible screws were or still are required for your particular assembly. I guess went off in the weeds there in my post, but the important takeaway is that there are no hard and fast rules about screws/no screws, tape or anything else for rated assemblies, it's about the mfg instructions.
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Jun 6, 2019 17:32
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Yeah read the booklet that comes with your water heater, it has everything in it. It's also available on the manufacturers site as a PDF. Home Depot is great about linking documentation off their product pages, so if it's a model they sell it's easy to find it all there.
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Jun 6, 2019 17:35
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BubbaGrace posted:You can buy a 2 pack of water heater dielectric nipples for like $12. Dielectric nipples are half the cost of brass and preferred by manufacturers due to the lining and heat trap. Good point. Plus I know dielectric unions tend to have leaking issues.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:28
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So the other day we saw a spot on the kitchen ceiling. I drilled a hole and stuck my endoscope up there and saw some green pipes. Today I cut a large hole so I could access the actual pipes, here's what I see The green corrosion points to pinhole leaks correct? What's the easiest (no plumbing experience but very handy) option to repair this? I see that shark bite fittings are an option but it looks like I have to replace the T junctions on both lines. The there's that bucket whomever remodeled this kitchen put in there. I am assuming it's catching something so I assume I will need to reseal that drain as well. Edit: So this exists. Is this my best option? https://www.lowes.com/pd/sharkbite-...fEDsRoCcyfw_wcB Rhyno fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 21:22
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Rhyno posted:So the other day we saw a spot on the kitchen ceiling. I drilled a hole and stuck my endoscope up there and saw some green pipes. Today I cut a large hole so I could access the actual pipes, here's what I see  Who in the hell leaves a bucket in a sealed space? Anyway, it could be a leak or it could be the pipes sweating. I'd check that bucket first. Is there any water in it?There's water damage on that joist as well. What's all directly above here? And no, that tee wouldn't work. You'd need a 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 tee. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 19:12
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This is directly below our "main" bathroom. The bucket was wedged under the sink drain. The green pipes are the shower supply lines and directly above that joist is the shower drain. Shower drain  Bucket removed  Bucket  All the work appears to be old and not at all recent. But the elderly couple that lived here were unable to walk upstairs and were primarily living on the first floor so the leak could have been unnoticed until we started using the upstair bath frequently. So it looks like we need to reseal the sink drain as well. What would you suggest for the T junctions? No a bit more information, we're going to remodel the kitchen fully in roughly 18 months so these repairs don't need to look perfect. I fully intend to go full PEX when we have the ceiling and walls open.
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Jun 8, 2019 21:03
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Rhyno posted:This is directly below our "main" bathroom. The bucket was wedged under the sink drain. The green pipes are the shower supply lines and directly above that joist is the shower drain. My vote is that your supply pipes aren't leaking. The stains on your pipes are most likely from your pipes sweating. That happens when pipes are in a humid space and the water inside the pipes is at a lower temperature than the air around them. It makes the humidity in the air collect on the pipes, just like on the outside of a cup of ice water. If it happens enough, they can drip. Still, that bucket should be empty. I think you found your humidity source! Fix your drains, tub included.
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Jun 8, 2019 22:19
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By fix you mean just make sure they are not leaking/reseal them right? What's the best way to accomplish that? Please forgive me as I said before, no plumbing experience here.
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Jun 8, 2019 22:25
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