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Exinos
Mar 1, 2009

OSHA approved squiq

actionjackson posted:

with the product I linked to, it said it can be put over one layer of vinyl but not more than one. I thought maybe that was standard.

Everyone thinks the vinyl they're going over is the only one.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I somehow found someone selling a queen sized blu dot nook bed in my city. MSRP is 1800. They are selling for 1200. I said I'd offer 900 just because blu dot discounts their own furniture in their outlet 50% and often much more. If it tells me to gently caress off I'll just get the ikea bed.

Okay back to the vinyl, so how would I connect the "luxury" vinyl planks/tiles such that they connected properly here (on the bottom where the carpet starts)?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

Jaded Burnout posted:

Here's what I found in my kitchen during reno:


Keep that up and eventually you'll have to list your home with a lower ceiling height.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Trabant posted:

Keep that up and eventually you'll have to list your home with a lower ceiling height.

Sure, but you won’t have to compromise your joists to sink your tub into the floor

WithoutTheFezOn
Aug 28, 2005
Oh no

actionjackson posted:

Okay back to the vinyl, so how would I connect the "luxury" vinyl planks/tiles such that they connected properly here (on the bottom where the carpet starts)?


Do you mean how the tiles connect to each other, or how they “connect” to the carpet?

If it’s the latter, look at “T - molding” or “reducers”, or maybe “transitions”, depending on the height difference between the two surfaces. Chances are they sell some that match the tile pattern.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

The latter. I'm just trying to understand what that thin metal piece is.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:52 on May 28, 2019

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Schluter strip of some sort

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

Enchanted Hat posted:

Out of all the flamboyant French aristocrats to emulate, why pick the one whose tastes in gaudy overpriced tat was so bad she literally got beheaded?

To be fair, there's nothing there that's really anything to do with Marie Antoinette other than it's vaguely baroque and she's probably the most well-known historical figure associated with that style (because the men from that period get associated with creative works and deeds, not fripperies like interior decoration.)

And it looks like that because of Joanna Gaines, monster of our times.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Came across this bathroom in what I can only assume is a barn while looking at tubs on home depot's website.

Spring Heeled Jack fucked around with this message at 15:57 on May 28, 2019

Rotten Cookies
Nov 11, 2008

gosh! i like both the islanders and the rangers!!! :^)

post the bathroom, coward

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

actionjackson posted:

The latter. I'm just trying to understand what that thin metal piece is.

Schluter threshold profile is what you're looking for

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/For-Floors/c/P-FF

Tubgoat
Jun 30, 2013

by sebmojo

there wolf posted:

"I built my house out of random crap and then decorated it out a Tuesday Morning sale bin" is an ethos I can respect.
Extremely same.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003


Thanks! I think it's the "Schiene"

In conclusion, I'm pretty sure if I wanted to change the floor I'd have to hire someone to do it :p

EIDE Van Hagar
Dec 8, 2000

Beep Boop

Spring Heeled Jack posted:

Came across this bathroom in what I can only assume is a barn while looking at tubs on home depot's website.



In rural T*xas building a “barndominium” app n your land is a fad right now.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

EIDE Van Hagar posted:

In rural T*xas building a “barndominium” app n your land is a fad right now.

As I age, what I certainly don't need in my life is "reflective surfaces around my tub revealing more of my naked body."

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Inexperienced,
heartless,
but even so

tetrapyloctomy posted:

As I age, what I certainly don't need in my life is "reflective surfaces around my tub revealing more of my naked body."

just use concave surfaces

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Wouldn't that many layers of flooring start to gently caress with your baseboard? Like, I want to redo the floor in my kitchen and an adjoining room, but putting something over top of it would mean it had to be cut around the trim. Do people just take all the trim off first, lay the nth level of flooring, and nail the trim back on slightly higher?

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

The Wonder Weapon posted:

Wouldn't that many layers of flooring start to gently caress with your baseboard? Like, I want to redo the floor in my kitchen and an adjoining room, but putting something over top of it would mean it had to be cut around the trim. Do people just take all the trim off first, lay the nth level of flooring, and nail the trim back on slightly higher?

Yes, its pretty easy to pull and replace with the same base.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


The Wonder Weapon posted:

Wouldn't that many layers of flooring start to gently caress with your baseboard? Like, I want to redo the floor in my kitchen and an adjoining room, but putting something over top of it would mean it had to be cut around the trim. Do people just take all the trim off first, lay the nth level of flooring, and nail the trim back on slightly higher?

I've no idea what the PO of my place did, we just ripped out all of their flooring and the trim (and the walls, and the concrete slab)

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Yes, its pretty easy to pull and replace with the same base.

This is definitely more of a House Chat thread question than Interior Design thread question, but this thread is more active than that one, and related to this.

I've got awful paint marks all over the wood trim in my new home. I've been trying to get it off with denatured alcohol, but it's slow going, miserable, and most importantly, not thorough enough. I'm afraid once I paint the walls everything I wasn't able to remove is going to stand out like a sore thumb, since I'll have wood trim, [whatever color] walls, and then traces of white paint all over.

How unreasonable would it be to just pull all the baseboard, door frames, and wood frames down, wipe them down, and then reinstall? Could I do that relatively easily and without destroying the wood/my walls?

Example:

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
The trim should just be held on by finishing nails. Get a small prybar under there, put a bit of plywood under the prybar head so it doesn't dent the drywall, and you should be able to just pop it right off. You'll probably have to use fresh nails in different locations to re-install it though, which means removing the old nails and filling the nail holes with putty or wood fill.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



The Wonder Weapon posted:

This is definitely more of a House Chat thread question than Interior Design thread question, but this thread is more active than that one, and related to this.

I've got awful paint marks all over the wood trim in my new home. I've been trying to get it off with denatured alcohol, but it's slow going, miserable, and most importantly, not thorough enough. I'm afraid once I paint the walls everything I wasn't able to remove is going to stand out like a sore thumb, since I'll have wood trim, [whatever color] walls, and then traces of white paint all over.

How unreasonable would it be to just pull all the baseboard, door frames, and wood frames down, wipe them down, and then reinstall? Could I do that relatively easily and without destroying the wood/my walls?

Example:


No, you couldn't, and you'd destroy things making it worse, be miserable and it'd serve you right. Leave it in place. Read about this one weird trick-

Sand the afflicted areas with a sanding block or just freehand it with some #120 or so sandpaper and mask the drat walls like you should have done the trim. Be gentle. Maybe go up to #180 after that, maybe not.
When you've got that paint removed to your satisfaction, use a rag to wipe on either a clear or maybe golden oak tinted danish oil, and it'll blend. Leave the masking tape and paper on until you're done with that so you're not wiping oil into your latex and compounding your problem.


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

The trim should just be held on by finishing nails. Get a small prybar under there, put a bit of plywood under the prybar head so it doesn't dent the drywall, and you should be able to just pop it right off. You'll probably have to use fresh nails in different locations to re-install it though, which means removing the old nails and filling the nail holes with putty or wood fill.

This is very bad advice by someone who's never done this imo, but feel free to choose. Friend, he's talking about the whole drat house. He'd end up destroying the drywall.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Mr. Mambold posted:

This is very bad advice by someone who's never done this imo, but feel free to choose. Friend, he's talking about the whole drat house. He'd end up destroying the drywall.

Oh geeze, yeah, that's no good. I thought he was talking about like one single piece of trim. I clearly didn't read the original post very clearly.

extravadanza
Oct 19, 2007
I agree with TooMuchAbstraction that you shouldn't remove the trim to sand off the paint unless you want to just replace the trim entirely.

However, if you do need to pull trim off without damaging the walls, this thing actually worked pretty well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Zenith-Industries-ZN700001-Trim-Puller/dp/B01572REP4/

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Sorry, to clarify:

1. I'm talking about virtually the entire house. All the baseboards, door frames, and windows.
2. I didn't do this. Whomever sold me the house threw a coat of paint on every paintable wall in the house, and apparently spent maybe 45 minutes painting 2200 sqft.

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

I've had decent luck scraping dried paint off wood like that with a simple 5 in 1 tool. Not sharp enough to gouge the wood, but enough to knock the paint off. Try it at your own risk, of course.

Sanding and staining is right way to diy though

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



The Wonder Weapon posted:

Sorry, to clarify:

1. I'm talking about virtually the entire house. All the baseboards, door frames, and windows.
2. I didn't do this. Whomever sold me the house threw a coat of paint on every paintable wall in the house, and apparently spent maybe 45 minutes painting 2200 sqft.

I hope they suffer accordingly. Try what I suggested on a small area if you're reluctant. Spring for a quart of minwax or whatever brand oil stain/sealer you fancy. Try to finesse with the sandpaper rather than grinding away- it shouldn't take too much; and feather into the unaffected area a bit. Then dab on some oil and see a miracle unfold before your eyes.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

The Wonder Weapon posted:

This is definitely more of a House Chat thread question than Interior Design thread question, but this thread is more active than that one, and related to this.

I've got awful paint marks all over the wood trim in my new home. I've been trying to get it off with denatured alcohol, but it's slow going, miserable, and most importantly, not thorough enough. I'm afraid once I paint the walls everything I wasn't able to remove is going to stand out like a sore thumb, since I'll have wood trim, [whatever color] walls, and then traces of white paint all over.

How unreasonable would it be to just pull all the baseboard, door frames, and wood frames down, wipe them down, and then reinstall? Could I do that relatively easily and without destroying the wood/my walls?

Example:


Oof I'm sorry I didnt understand the extent of your idea. I was talking about a much smaller scale.. I pulled and reinstalled all the wood base in a living room, hallway and kitchen for someone to put in wood floors instead of carpet. It was a lot of work but we didnt want to change it so it would match the house. It's also less looked at than a window. If you do this make sure you're either confident in your ability to use a blade to cut before prying so you dont pull the paint off the wall, and or put taller base on to hide the wall that got trashed. Pulling trim like most demo is real easy it's making it look better afterwards where the magic happens.

Tldr Listen to mr mambolb they know their poo poo

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Just n'thing the suggestion to leave that trim in place. People keep talking about damaging drywall, which I don't really think would happen. However, judging by the trim style/color and the radiators, I'm gonna guess that's *not* drywall, but actually all very old plaster, which will 100% beyond any shadow of a doubt crumble all to poo poo when you pull the trim. Source: My job for a long time heavily involved removing trim. I've removed so much trim. Just so much.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I (somehow) found someone selling the nook bed in a queen size in light gray on craiglist. The MSRP is 1800, he listed it for 1200 and I got him down to 1k.

https://www.bludot.com/nook-bed-queen.html

the "thurmond light gray" color.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

actionjackson posted:

I (somehow) found someone selling the nook bed in a queen size in light gray on craiglist. The MSRP is 1800, he listed it for 1200 and I got him down to 1k.

https://www.bludot.com/nook-bed-queen.html

the "thurmond light gray" color.

awww, look at you scoring deals on your special snuggle taco bed. :3:

your adorable quilted hooded snooze cave, haggled down to a pwice that works for you :nyan:

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

uhhhh

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Slugworth posted:

Just n'thing the suggestion to leave that trim in place. People keep talking about damaging drywall, which I don't really think would happen. However, judging by the trim style/color and the radiators, I'm gonna guess that's *not* drywall, but actually all very old plaster, which will 100% beyond any shadow of a doubt crumble all to poo poo when you pull the trim. Source: My job for a long time heavily involved removing trim. I've removed so much trim. Just so much.

You are correct that it is plaster.

I will go to the hardware store and get sanding blocks today.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

I have the exact same problem in my house - fuckwit painters hired by cheapshit PO got smears and drips of paint all over the sides of the trim and casing and ends of doors in my Victorian and created a lot of unpleasant work for me. gently caress those painters :murder:

Fixing my poo poo is going to be a bit more of a pain in the rear end than usual because most of my trim is grained (aka hand painted to look like expensive wood), so I need to sand/strip the errant wall paint and then touch up the graining. That's going to be a weird trip to Sherwin-Williams.

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Would a Dremel with a sanding tool work for removing that paint? Or just end up removing too much of the trim at the same time? Or gunk up before removing much at all?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I'd be worried about the dremel taking off irregular amounts of material, leading to a bumpy surface. That's the general problem with power tools: without some kind of mechanical assistance (like a guide or fence) it's very hard to create regular surfaces with them.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


The wall paint is likely water-based if that helps, you could probably remove it without affecting the trim, depending on how it's finished/painted. Gentle circular motions with a damp cotton swab might get the job done.

Might also be worth trying to just sort of push/break/chip it off very lightly with something appropriate for how soft or hard the underlying surface is.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

actionjackson posted:

I (somehow) found someone selling the nook bed in a queen size in light gray on craiglist. The MSRP is 1800, he listed it for 1200 and I got him down to 1k.

https://www.bludot.com/nook-bed-queen.html

the "thurmond light gray" color.

This is a cool bed that looks comfy. Ignore the haters.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

lol I dunno. I just thought it was kinda funny how excited you seemed to get for the Nook bed and how you've managed to track one down in the desired size after coming up short at the outlet. I thought I was being more good-weird than bad-weird, I guess. I'm legit happy for you and it's been fun to see your apartment projects come together over the last few weeks.

It's a good looking bed, although I'd be afraid of messing up the upholstered headboard by sitting against it/somebody putting a hand through it during certain kinds of sex.

trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 23:15 on May 28, 2019

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Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

Jaded Burnout posted:

The wall paint is likely water-based if that helps, you could probably remove it without affecting the trim, depending on how it's finished/painted. Gentle circular motions with a damp cotton swab might get the job done.

Might also be worth trying to just sort of push/break/chip it off very lightly with something appropriate for how soft or hard the underlying surface is.

Yep, a plastic scraper might even do the trick

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