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Moai Ou posted:I've been eyeing the RG Sazabi for a while, but I keep telling myself that I'm gonna get the MG Ka version some day. Other than Zakus, I don't really buy different types of the same kit. Is there anything the RG does better than the Ka? a lot of the detailing and proportions are different as well. it's not really accurate to just call it a smaller version of the ver ka.
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May 29, 2019 22:56
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MJP posted:Just exercise caution putting them on and taking them off. Use pliers, a hemostat, anything but your fingers. You shouldn't need to use force - they should slide on and clip into place, and unclip easily. It really depends on the scalpel handle too. The cheap free one included with a lot of the ebay listings are horrible and take a decent amount of force to put a blade on, but I've never had an issue swapping blades by hand with the Feather, Swann-Morton, or Bard-Parker handles I've used.
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May 29, 2019 23:06
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Gripweed posted:Most of them are really good. The only "bad" ones are the Zeta, the Sinanju, and the GP-01. So between the Sazabi and the Zeta, I should do the Sazabi first?
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May 30, 2019 02:09
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Finally finished this:   God it's such a good kit asterioth fucked around with this message at 08:36 on May 30, 2019 |
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May 30, 2019 08:11
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Fine lookin' robit there, friend.
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May 30, 2019 13:15
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Did you use any of the extra color stickers?
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May 30, 2019 19:45
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My Spike came in and he's a real good boy https://twitter.com/MrMattJay/status/1134220481257598976
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May 31, 2019 00:04
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grassy gnoll posted:Fine lookin' robit there, friend. Thank you! Yawgmoft posted:Did you use any of the extra color stickers? Nah, just panel line + waterslides + top coat
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May 31, 2019 03:21
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I'm waiting for an early June order from Gundam Planet for some Tamiya Panel Line Wash stuff - it did so awesome on bare plastic but got things a bit brittle, so I'm putting down lacquer gloss topcoats (Testors Glosscote) on my current projects, painted or unpainted, to see how it holds up. Here's one of 'em - the Vidar Verde. Gonna have to do some better photos one of these days. 
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May 31, 2019 16:02
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Reading up on airbrushing in anticipation of giving it a go soon. Any suggestions on optimal workflow? For a simple start, was thinking of doing a top-coat only model, something like this mostly from the layman's gunpla guide: Snap fit->gloss top coat->panel lines->decals->gloss or flat top coat. Does it make sense to snap fit then take things apart to top coat and detail before reassembling? Or should I be top coating/detailing entire assemblies?
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Jun 1, 2019 07:07
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Perfect on the work flow, if your just doing topcoats and panel lining, just break down the model into limbs for ease of work.
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Jun 1, 2019 07:53
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I decided to see what all the fuss was about so I brought me a Zaku  I dunno, this kit seems overly simple... Good thing I brought another Zaku!  In all seriousness, I saw that Gundam Mad had some First Grade kits in stock for £5 so I thought I'd pick one up to practice painting and removing seam lines. It actually has more surface detail than I expected but if I were to remove every seam I'd baseically have to paint a fully assembled kit since the arms and legs get sandwiched inside the body. With the whole thing being moulded in one colour it's a good opportunity to practice masking and stuff to see if I can get even close to the pictures on the box. I was considering maybe painting the RG at some point down the line once I've had some practice, but after seeing how it handles the hose-things? gently caress that.
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Jun 1, 2019 10:09
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Nur_Neerg posted:Reading up on airbrushing in anticipation of giving it a go soon. Any suggestions on optimal workflow? For a simple start, was thinking of doing a top-coat only model, something like this mostly from the layman's gunpla guide: to be honest, unless you just want the experience of working with a gloss coat, you dont need to do a gloss coat over bare plastic. You can just line directly onto it(assuming your using a pen and not a lining fluid like tamiya). If you are using a lining color like tamiya then you do need to gloss coat depending on the plastics material. As for the top coat, break it down into the basics (arms, legs, head, shoulder pads if they're seperate from the arms, torso, waist, weapons/shield, backpack, skirting if it's large, any accessorys you wanted coated) and reassemble, assuming you want the top coat to be just one type of coating and you're not mixing. asterioth fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Jun 1, 2019 |
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Jun 1, 2019 13:22
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Goddammit. I was just removing the tiniest decal off the sheet and it straight up DISAPPEARED. Just gone. What the gently caress.
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Jun 2, 2019 06:04
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https://twitter.com/yu5ukejbk/status/1135138578625748993
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Jun 2, 2019 12:16
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I’m not sure what’s going on here but I’m voting in favor of it.
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Jun 2, 2019 15:24
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Would you rather fight 10 duck-sized Zakus or one Zaku-sized duck?
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Jun 2, 2019 15:28
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That;s one Tall Goose
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Jun 2, 2019 15:33
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Kaiju Cage Match posted:Would you rather fight 10 duck-sized Zakus or one Zaku-sized duck? Well obviously neither because a Zaku sized duck is too terrifying to comprehend, and how could you want to fight a duck sized Zaku when it's so adorable?
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Jun 2, 2019 15:42
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Duck sized Zaku is cute until it screams sieg zeon and blows up your coffee mug
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Jun 2, 2019 16:12
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Marx Headroom posted:Duck sized Zaku is cute until it screams sieg zeon and blows up your coffee mug Nah, it'd push the mug off the table and instigate a Coffee Drop onto the floor below.
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Jun 2, 2019 16:35
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Nur_Neerg posted:Does it make sense to snap fit then take things apart to top coat and detail before reassembling? Or should I be top coating/detailing entire assemblies? I almost always assemble -> disassemble -> paint. That said, disassemble doesn't have to always mean single pieces. Sometimes it makes sense to do small put-together piece, if there's a good place to clip it and it all goes the same color. Entire assemblies tend to be unwieldy or too heavy to really put up. I remember I did the leg frames of my MG Mk II at one piece. They are huge, and ended up with some poorly painted bits, which thankfully ended up covered by the armor. If you're not doing a competition, get a little lazy if the part won't be visible.
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Jun 2, 2019 17:36
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EVGA Longoria posted:I almost always assemble -> disassemble -> paint. That said, disassemble doesn't have to always mean single pieces. Sometimes it makes sense to do small put-together piece, if there's a good place to clip it and it all goes the same color. asterioth posted:to be honest, unless you just want the experience of working with a gloss coat, you dont need to do a gloss coat over bare plastic. You can just line directly onto it(assuming your using a pen and not a lining fluid like tamiya). If you are using a lining color like tamiya then you do need to gloss coat depending on the plastics material. As for the top coat, break it down into the basics (arms, legs, head, shoulder pads if they're seperate from the arms, torso, waist, weapons/shield, backpack, skirting if it's large, any accessorys you wanted coated) and reassemble, assuming you want the top coat to be just one type of coating and you're not mixing. Puddin posted:Perfect on the work flow, if your just doing topcoats and panel lining, just break down the model into limbs for ease of work. Thanks y'all! Thinking I'll try a straight marker->decals/stickers->matte top first, then also a gloss->panel wash->decals->matte after to see the difference, as a start.
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Jun 2, 2019 18:34
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The reason I'd go with a gloss - panel line - decals - matt is that enamel washes can react with plastic a d cause them to get super brittle and crumble the moment you put pressure on them. The gloss coat protects it from this. If your using gundam markers though, then it should be fine.
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Jun 2, 2019 20:30
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https://twitter.com/muffinlordSA/status/1135266953692684290?s=19 So I just got back from Wonder Fest USA here in Louisville. I took some pictures of kits that I enjoyed, if you want to browse through.
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Jun 2, 2019 21:01
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The Muffinlord posted:https://twitter.com/muffinlordSA/status/1135266953692684290?s=19 is selling custom garage kits a thing at wf usa or is that dead in the states everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 22:15
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Puddin posted:The reason I'd go with a gloss - panel line - decals - matt is that enamel washes can react with plastic a d cause them to get super brittle and crumble the moment you put pressure on them. The gloss coat protects it from this. Yeah I've been wanting to try out panel washes to see which I prefer, hence figuring I'll just experiment with both. Might need to pick up some Leos to practice painting 
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Jun 2, 2019 22:35
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Getting really pissed off by the way decals look over any slightly rounded surface. Any tips? Getting a lot of scrunching and weird corners. Trying to carefully cut some off but still don’t like how they look
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Jun 2, 2019 23:15
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everythingWasBees posted:is selling custom garage kits a thing at wf usa or is that dead in the states There were like a billion of them, mostly of movie monsters or Western style pinup girls or Nazi poo poo. Only like three vendors had gunpla at all, and there wasn't even a Bluefin booth which made me a bit sad. What's weirder is there was a whole large size booth where they had a GSI Creos rep on hand and tons of imported Mr. Color and Mr. Hobby stuff. That was where the Z'Gock and the Zentraedi cruiser were. ** Edit: by "Nazi poo poo" i mostly mean world war 2 stuff for grognards but there were a fair amount of questionable symbols present. It's Kentucky, what can ya do. The Muffinlord fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 23:34
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Unmature posted:Getting really pissed off by the way decals look over any slightly rounded surface. Any tips? Getting a lot of scrunching and weird corners. Trying to carefully cut some off but still don’t like how they look Are you using decal softeners (Microsol, Mr Mark Softer, etc)?
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Jun 2, 2019 23:41
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Symetrique posted:Are you using decal softeners (Microsol, Mr Mark Softer, etc)? Nope, no idea what that is
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Jun 2, 2019 23:54
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Unmature posted:Nope, no idea what that is Ah, just checked your post history, didnt realize that you're new to this. So "decals" generally refers to waterslide decals, and not the stickers that are included with every bandai gunpla kit. For an example, asterioth used decals on the Rx-93 he posted on this page. The Star Wars line does include waterslides and stickers though, and Bandai does make optional Gundam Decal products too. If I'm mistaken and you do mean actual waterslides, you're going to want a decal softener like Microsol or Tamiya's mark fit strong (avoid Mr Mark Softer, it is extremely aggressive on non-lacquer paint). These products are applied after the decal is placed, and help soften/melt the decal so that it conforms around curves and sinks into panel lines.
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Jun 3, 2019 00:19
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Decal softeners are exactly what they sound like. They can be found for pretty cheap in basically any hobby shop. Setters are aids for getting your decals placed, and softeners make the decals pliable (but even easier to tear, so don't put the softener on until you're real sure you're good with the placement). Mush out the wrinkles and air bubbles with a brush, hit 'em with a varnish coat, and you can't tell there's any kind of decal there.
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Jun 3, 2019 00:21
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Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2019 00:28
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Waterslides are essentially much thinner than the thick sticker stock that comes with most Gundam kits. A lot of people won't use stickers that aren't waterslides... And it means we usually have to go far out of our way to get some. E: phoneposting not properly linking image, sorry for the direct link. https://imgur.com/a/q1IGgOS As you can see on my 3.0, the sticker used on the barrel of the bazooka wraps around the entirety of the cylander, and looks completely flush to the plastic thanks to both how good waterslides are and the softener used to 'melt' it into the plastic. Yawgmoft fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 00:36
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Yeah these are just the regular stickers that came with the kit and they look like poo poo. I ended up taking a bunch of them off. Putting them on was a fun exercise though. Maybe I'll look into getting a water decal sheet and doing this boy up right.
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Jun 3, 2019 01:34
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Unmature posted:Yeah these are just the regular stickers that came with the kit and they look like poo poo. I ended up taking a bunch of them off. Putting them on was a fun exercise though. Maybe I'll look into getting a water decal sheet and doing this boy up right. Water decals are great but for gods sake don't touch them once you soften them for like 24 hours. The softeners make them look great but they also actually melt them to the point that they are basically liquid until they set. Which is cool but a bummer to find out first hand.
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Jun 3, 2019 01:45
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Sam Sanskrit posted:Water decals are great but for gods sake don't touch them once you soften them for like 24 hours. The softeners make them look great but they also actually melt them to the point that they are basically liquid until they set. Which is cool but a bummer to find out first hand. To add to this, once you put the softener on they're going to crinkle up. This is normal. Avoid the urge to touch them and they'll flatten back out as they dry.
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Jun 3, 2019 03:57
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I've posted my progress more than a few times in here, but I recently slapped together a photo booth and decided to try out some photography so I figured I'd play around until I got a photo I liked. Here's what I'd consider the final build of my custom Grimoire with decals and all that jazz. There's a lot to be said for the right way to do photography and this was just done on auto with some bad settings but I liked the way this shot came out.
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Jun 3, 2019 13:49
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Zodack posted:I've posted my progress more than a few times in here, but I recently slapped together a photo booth and decided to try out some photography so I figured I'd play around until I got a photo I liked. Here's what I'd consider the final build of my custom Grimoire with decals and all that jazz. There's a lot to be said for the right way to do photography and this was just done on auto with some bad settings but I liked the way this shot came out. I personally reckon it needs a bigger shield to complement the hammer and bazooka, but goddamn that is amazing work none-the-less  .
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Jun 3, 2019 13:54
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