|
bird with big dick posted:You can get a Viking for 4 grand? or less. https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/RVRF3361SS.html bird with big dick posted:Then say that cause you can spend 4 grand on a Samsung or Kitchenaid. It was said. You are missing the context of the conversation somehow - probably because you didn't read the previous posts. bird with big dick posted:Are cheap Vikings really Vikings or just rebadged Panasonics or something? Yes, they are commercial guts in a residential container. Why do you find all of this so difficult to believe?
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 14:11 |
|
|
Today I learned that some appliances have a special mode for observing the sabbath.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 01:52
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Today I learned that some appliances have a special mode for observing the sabbath. There's a Black Sabbath joke in here somewhere, I just can't find it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
Motronic posted:or less. quote:I have had the fridge for just over a month and have had two service calls and waiting to hear back from Viking on switching out the unit. One to fix a electrical issue with the left door which was charged and shocking us. quote:soon realize that the high pitch ringing/knocking coming from the fridge is causing my ears to ring to the point I think I might have ear damage and wakes me up at 2 am. Unplugging my fridge, doing my research, to find out the Viking fridge uses a panasonic compressor pump. quote:The build quality is terrible. The door panels don’t lineup The plastic that used to cover the stainless steel will not completely come off, as pictured and looks terrible. This unit doesn’t even have a water dispenser. Ice from the icemaker is constantly falling into the storage bins in the freezer. I would’ve been much better off buying a high tech Japanese brand for thousands less. This refrigerator is an embarrassment for Viking to have in the marketplace quote:Bought the refrigerator 5 years ago when we had our kitchen remodeled. 2 years ago we had to put in a new ice maker at a cost of over $400. Today we had to put in our second replacement ice maker at cost of over $400. We called Viking to see if there was anything they could do to help us out on this but they said no. 3 ice makers in 5 years. I suggest looking for another brand of refrigerator. quote:The ice maker has been replaced. The ice also keeps falling out of the tray and if you don't watch it the door will not shut properly. This happens ALL the time. Have to turn ice maker off when the drawer is full and be mindful of it falling out and causing the door not to shut. quote:he multiple vents are so cold at the back of the refrigerator that we have to keep fruit far away from the back of the refrigerator shelves so as not to have the fruit freeze. We had a service call and he suggested raising the temp of the refrigerator... that was 3 months ago ... same problem still exists. quote:My milk was going bad after a couple days (even when stored in the back of the fridge), so I bought a refrigerator thermometer to check the internal temperature. The temps are all over the place... some shelves are too warm, some are freezing It has similar problems and worse customer satisfaction than a similarly priced Samsung.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 15:06
|
|
|
I guess commercial guts aren’t what they used to be!
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 15:26
|
|
|
I’m sorry I just can’t believe that savvy small business magnates might be fooled into buying poor equipment for lots of money.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 17:27
|
|
|
Some water appeared in the middle of the basement, traced it back to the water heater. I figured it was time for replacement since it's so old, but it wasn't much water so I started looking for a bad connection. The good news is I found it, the better news was it wasn't even the water heater, it was coming from the saddle tap to the fridge water. Not sure what to do now, rebuild it or replace it with a sweat in tap?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 17:45
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Some water appeared in the middle of the basement, traced it back to the water heater. I figured it was time for replacement since it's so old, but it wasn't much water so I started looking for a bad connection. The good news is I found it, the better news was it wasn't even the water heater, it was coming from the saddle tap to the fridge water. Guys, stop talking about water heaters. Mine is date coded 1985, and water heater chat makes me nervous. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 21:56
|
|
|
Oh gosh dangit I just went to Home Depot and I knew I forgot something. Looks like I'm getting water from the tap like a poor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 01:04
|
|
|
So are Viking/Sub Zero still good or what? I need to know cause the fridge is the only kitchen appliance I haven't had to replace yet and I'm sure it's trying it's best to die too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 14:23
|
|
|
I know this is probably somewhat location specific, but can anyone give me an idea if this is reasonable for some driveway work? Basically, I want to widen the driveway to run up against the house. You can sort of see the planter area to the left of my car. I'm going to tear out the plants and want it filled in with asphalt to match the driveway (everything from the garage up to the front walk). I wanted the driveway coated at the same time so it all matches. I originally wanted to widen to the right a little but because the ground slopes he said we'd be looking at a retaining wall which is more involved than I want this project to get. In terms of damage to the existing driveway, you can see the crumbled away area close the street (it's gotten a little worse since the street view car came through a couple years ago), then there's a couple cracks the span the whole width farther up, and one of them is big enough you can see the original driveway under the asphalt top coat. I have a few more folks coming out, but here's the first estimate. He told me because of the damage and the height difference they want to tear out the existing driveway entirely and relay it all from scratch. I was hoping to get away with repairing the issues and recoating the existing driveway since its largely in decent shape other than the mentioned damage. But considering the quote is for a full tear out and replacement it doesn't seem out of line to me.  
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 19:42
|
|
|
What are you planning to do about the gutter? That's the big thing if want to sort out. The quote doesn't sound outlandish, but I'd definitely get a couple more before committing to anything.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 19:52
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Basically, I want to widen the driveway to run up against the house. What extra utility are you gaining here? To me glancing at 1 picture I see a driveway that's in great condition without enough room to park a second car next to it. Under $5k for 2-3 days of work with haul off seems reasonable to me but I've never bid a job like that. It's like $600-1000 around me to get that much rubble hauled away by the city. More if you use a private company.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
Basically I have no room to work on or wash a car right now. I end up standing in the mud in the planter, and leaving enough room to work a jack on both sides is a challenge. I'd gain about 3 feet which would make a big difference.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 20:51
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Basically I have no room to work on or wash a car right now. I end up standing in the mud in the planter, and leaving enough room to work a jack on both sides is a challenge. I would do bricks or pavers on the left side coming up from the street through that area next to the house. Won’t match your driveway obviously but it saves the cost of redoing the existing portion.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 21:20
|
|
|
TheManWithNoName posted:I would do bricks or pavers on the left side coming up from the street through that area next to the house. Won’t match your driveway obviously but it saves the cost of redoing the existing portion. Hmm, I was thinking of tearing the plants out myself and laying some stone down before I decided to have the driveway redone, but I like the idea of bricks or pavers. I may go that route depending on how the other estimates look.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 21:21
|
|
|
Just took some better pics. View from the garage:  Side of the driveway where it sunk from a tree truck parking at the edge:  Worst spots of damage:   I do have this brick under the hose at the rear corner of the house, maybe I could just match this: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 22:39
|
|
|
I had an appliance repairman out recently for my fridge and I think he really hosed up, and I haven't been able to get anyone on the phone in 3 days. Maybe a goon here knows about fridges? Side-by-side fridge had a rattley sound and was chirping like a cricket so he replaced what I think he called the flapper solenoid, in the vent that blows cold air into the fridge side from the freezer side. Honestly, chirping hasn't resolved but the rattle has. But more importantly, everything in my fridge side is frozen solid. I even had a soda can blow up (fun to wake up to!). I messed with the thermostat settings and it still says the fridge is at 36. I upped it to 40 just to see if anything thawed and I can't tell but I don't think so. What could he have hosed up/what should I look at while I continue trying to get someone on the phone? I'm also tempted to file a chargeback on my card even though he has my signature on the bill but I'm pretty mad. I can't believe I didn't check reviews first, they have an F with the BBB and 1 star on every review site.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 23:26
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Basically I have no room to work on or wash a car right now. I end up standing in the mud in the planter, and leaving enough room to work a jack on both sides is a challenge. Good times, makes sense. The part where a heavy truck caused it to sink would give me some concern in general, but that damage doesn't make me flinch. Ours is in way worse shape and has 3 obvious sections of patchwork. I just can't get worked up over a driveway being pristine. Asphalt is fairly soft a material in general, so any heavy loading towards the edges is going to cause it to squish out/break off. You would need something to retain it along the side to prevent that in the future. drat Bananas posted:they have an F with the BBB and 1 star on every review site. BBB is a scam and entirely pay to play. The combination of 1-stars and F however makes me think the BBB rating isn't entirely wrong and you should just charge them back, noting 2 times across 2 days you've attempted to call them to rectify the issue. Your credit card likely has a section for quality of work/satisfaction to lean on which should overrule the signature on the form. "Service completed made things worse in a way not obvious until the next morning, I have attempted on <date, time> and <date, time> to call them back out however my calls were not picked up and my messages not returned. Unfortunately time is of the essence with these sorts of things, and I urgently need my fridge in working order so I have to call someone else." If they don't immediately side with you then you will likely need to be firm with them on the phone that you did your part in attempting to resolve the matter with the vendor and they refused (by not calling you back.) It can take them 30-60 days to process this, as they're going to FAX or mail the vendor a form to contest your dispute. In the mean time move on with your life.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2019 23:56
|
|
|
Yeah I don't put much weight on BBB ratings but I see 22 complaints of long winded people bitching, many naming my repairman by name so it's pretty telling. Guess I need to pay another company even more money to get my fridge back, and hope I get this other charge reversed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 00:03
|
|
|
MrYenko posted:Guys, stop talking about water heaters. Mine is date coded 1985, and water heater chat makes me nervous. I really never understand why people play this game. Unless the water heater is in a garage or something where hundreds of gallons of water just makes you shrug your shoulders. Most of the time they start to leak slowly to let you know your time is limited, but there's always the cases where they decide to rupture with a larger hole. Then, you have the fun of taking cold showers while you wait to pay $$$emergency overtime rates$$$ to a plumber kind enough to come on a holiday weekend to replace it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 00:19
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:Can anyone recommend any products for cleaning old hand gunk off of a bannister? Probably 60 years worth of poo poo, I don’t care if it strips the finish as well. Krud Kutter for both. You can get at Home Depot and it's non toxic!
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 00:51
|
|
|
drat Bananas posted:I had an appliance repairman out recently for my fridge and I think he really hosed up, and I haven't been able to get anyone on the phone in 3 days. Maybe a goon here knows about fridges? Most fridges just cool the freezer and have a duct with a fan that moves air from the freezer into the fridge as needed. It sounds like yours has a flappy thing that's now stuck open so both sides are freezers.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 01:01
|
|
|
Fun discoveries: started breaking up floor tile for the bathroom reno and discovered it was installed over old floor tile, which was subsequently installed directly over the hardwood floor. Once all this crap is removed and I’m left with the bare hardwood, what’s the best backer for installing floor, that I can just easily install over the hardwood?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 01:29
|
|
|
What are you putting down? Tile?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 01:46
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:What are you putting down? Tile? Yeah, forgot to mention that. I intend to put down some mosaic tile for the floor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 01:49
|
|
|
wouldn't you want a vapor barrier and backerboard? or something from the Kerdi-Schluter world.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 01:57
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:Fun discoveries: started breaking up floor tile for the bathroom reno and discovered it was installed over old floor tile, which was subsequently installed directly over the hardwood floor. What condition is the hardwood floor and subfloor beneath? Tile floors need a strong base that doesn't deflect much. Rotten moisture damaged flooring will cause your grout joints to crack and pop. The old flooring was probably higher than the floor outside, right? If so, now is a good time to cut out the hardwood and put new subflooring in, and tile backer. It'll probably end up level with the flooring adjacent as an added bonus. If it looks great and you don't identify with what I had above, I like Hardiebacker. Install instructions are online and easy to follow. I put it beneath a washer and dryer and no issues so far, it's been a year of unbalanced loads.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 01:58
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:What condition is the hardwood floor and subfloor beneath? Tile floors need a strong base that doesn't deflect much. Rotten moisture damaged flooring will cause your grout joints to crack and pop. The old flooring was probably higher than the floor outside, right? If so, now is a good time to cut out the hardwood and put new subflooring in, and tile backer. It'll probably end up level with the flooring adjacent as an added bonus. The hardwood is the subfloor (aka no subfloor), the house was built in 1920 (or before). I am hoping I can just scrape up the original tile & mastic (still sticky!) and have everything else come up with it. Any floor seriously damaged can be cut out replaced with OSB, but I was mostly wondering what to do on top of that. Hardiebacker does seem like a good option.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 13:55
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Just took some better pics. Ohhh...yeah, tear that thing up. That's a "pancake" install - somebody just slapped asphalt on grass/dirt and said "good enough." They don't last - as you can see. If it's being done as in your quote with a stone base properly compacted and 2 + 2 " of asphalt that's nearly street paving quality and you shouldn't have any similar problems with the new driveway.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 15:53
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:The hardwood is the subfloor (aka no subfloor), the house was built in 1920 (or before). I am hoping I can just scrape up the original tile & mastic (still sticky!) and have everything else come up with it. Any floor seriously damaged can be cut out replaced with OSB, but I was mostly wondering what to do on top of that. Hardiebacker does seem like a good option. "Hardwood" means wood from certain species of tree. It's possible that your subfloor is made out of some kind of hardwood, but if you just mean subfloor then say subfloor. "Hardwood" makes me think that you're talking about a nicely-laid-out hardwood floor which is itself resting on a subfloor. Subfloors were commonly made from solid wood before cheap sheet materials were a thing -- my house built in the 50's has a solid wood subfloor on the second floor, for example.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 16:01
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:The hardwood is the subfloor (aka no subfloor), the house was built in 1920 (or before). I am hoping I can just scrape up the original tile & mastic (still sticky!) and have everything else come up with it. Any floor seriously damaged can be cut out replaced with OSB, but I was mostly wondering what to do on top of that. Hardiebacker does seem like a good option. Some sort of cement board is needed. There's several brands, each with advantages. Tile installers generally have one they like to work with. If you're doing this yourself, you'll probably be fine without whatever is in stock locally.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 16:31
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:"Hardwood" means wood from certain species of tree. It's possible that your subfloor is made out of some kind of hardwood, but if you just mean subfloor then say subfloor. "Hardwood" makes me think that you're talking about a nicely-laid-out hardwood floor which is itself resting on a subfloor. My house is heart pine (not technically a hardwood but beautiful flooring nonetheless) directly over the joists throughout the entire first and second floor. My previous house (built in the 50's) was oak flooring directly over joists on the main floor, and rough-er pine boards over the joists in the upstairs (as a proper subfloor). The only time this current floor is acting as a subfloor was when dipshit previous owners put down carpet or laminate as 'updates', which have since been ripped up.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 16:33
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:My house is heart pine (not technically a hardwood but beautiful flooring nonetheless) directly over the joists throughout the entire first and second floor. My previous house (built in the 50's) was oak flooring directly over joists on the main floor, and rough-er pine boards over the joists in the upstairs (as a proper subfloor). I have this as well, except the previous owners had the house since the 1950's and at some point a couple decades ago put down particle board subflooring and carpet... ...except in the kitchen, where they put down particle board subflooring and then glued a low-pile carpet directly to the subfloor. I was hoping I could tear out the carpet quickly and put in a snap together floating floor but 
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 17:21
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:I know this is probably somewhat location specific, but can anyone give me an idea if this is reasonable for some driveway work? imho also get a quote to put a french drain under the driveway so you can have your downspout empty out to your grassy hill or somewhere else.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:imho also get a quote to put a french drain under the driveway so you can have your downspout empty out to your grassy hill or somewhere else. Good catch, but you don't even need a french drain, just 4" PVC.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 18:06
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:imho also get a quote to put a french drain under the driveway so you can have your downspout empty out to your grassy hill or somewhere else. He doesn't need a French drain, just a pipe. Although he may want to think about where it goes because if he just kicks it straight across the driveway it's now dumping right into the neighbors yard. Stormwater runoff is a great source of neighbor disputes. I'd see if he could bump it into the front yard and maybe do a small rain garden, depending in the soils and water table and such.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 18:08
|
|
|
I do already have a full french drain around the house including right below the planter that we're taking out. But I'm inclined to just leave the downspout as-is since its close enough to the front walk that it's not really in the way of the area that I'm mainly going to be utilizing the extra space from the expansion. And yeah, because of the grade I wouldn't want to simply run PVC under the driveway since it'll just flood out my neighbor's yard. I will ask the the next few guys I have out for estimates about it though, I'm sure they've dealt with similar before.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 18:34
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:I do already have a full french drain around the house including right below the planter that we're taking out. But I'm inclined to just leave the downspout as-is since its close enough to the front walk that it's not really in the way of the area that I'm mainly going to be utilizing the extra space from the expansion. The only reason I would think about doing something differently with the downspout if you pave it, is that in the wintertime you can end up with an ice sheet machine as water trickles onto the new driveway. Then previous homeowner at my place routed several downspouts to the driveway probably thinking it would drain away easier but I had to reroute them because it was just nothing but a huge slippery pain in the winter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 18:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 14:11 |
|
|
Just FYI, car jackstands will sink right into asphalt, especially on a warm day. If you want a spot for working on a car, you might consider concrete. The standard workaround is to put plywood down under your jackstands, but you also don't want to be lying on asphalt, the tar ruins your clothes. There's probably firmer grades etc. you might not have a big problem... but a concrete pad at the end of the driveway is maybe worth considering. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jun 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2019 22:16
|
|
