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Anyone have an "H97-Pro" motherboard? Mine seems to flat out refuse to recognize USB devices during boot, which means I can't use USB keyboards to enter the setup, and I can't boot from an USB stick. It has functioned before since I installed my OS a few years ago. There is a setting to let it enable all USB ports on boot (disabled by default for some reason) but that didn't do anything at all as far as I can tell. edit: maybe this should go in the tech support forum, I'll leave this here for now in case someone knows exactly what's wrong. netcat fucked around with this message at 21:42 on May 27, 2019 |
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May 27, 2019 21:39
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netcat posted:Anyone have an "H97-Pro" motherboard? Mine seems to flat out refuse to recognize USB devices during boot, which means I can't use USB keyboards to enter the setup, and I can't boot from an USB stick. It has functioned before since I installed my OS a few years ago. There is a setting to let it enable all USB ports on boot (disabled by default for some reason) but that didn't do anything at all as far as I can tell. do you have fast boot enabled? try booting 4-5 more times and let it fail on some mobos 3x failed boot attempts in a row will reset a setting that may be hosed
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May 27, 2019 21:48
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Statutory Ape posted:do you have fast boot enabled? try booting 4-5 more times and let it fail Yeah fast boot is enabled, I tried to disable but it did nothing. I haven't really tinkered with any settings, but I removed the battery for a bit to reset it, but no difference there either. It's probably just a piece of poo poo and I should get a new one.
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May 27, 2019 22:04
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netcat posted:Yeah fast boot is enabled, I tried to disable but it did nothing. I haven't really tinkered with any settings, but I removed the battery for a bit to reset it, but no difference there either. It's probably just a piece of poo poo and I should get a new one. Try the USB ports located on the top (with the board mounted vertically). They're usually on a different controller than all the lower USB 3.0 ones and work in the BIOS or on boot.
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May 27, 2019 22:59
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ProjektorBoy posted:Seagate has external hard drive power adapters right on their site https://www.seagate.com/consumer/backup/expansion-hard-drive/#accessories That seagate link redirects me to the local equivalent; they do not seem to sell the adapters here. I'm going to go with this one; it is 12V 1.5A: https://www.amazon.es/Universal-impresora-etiquetas-impresoras-esc%E1neres/dp/B01GRYFSB8/ Thank you all. Next time I move to a different country I'll try to remember to bring the adapter.
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May 28, 2019 08:36
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Associate Christ
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Rexxed posted:Try the USB ports located on the top (with the board mounted vertically). They're usually on a different controller than all the lower USB 3.0 ones and work in the BIOS or on boot. Hmm I did try them with the USB stick without luck but not the keyboard, I'll have to take a look later.
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May 28, 2019 08:59
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I'm planning to replace my current laptop with a custom desktop this year. I've realized that the two things I want most from my computer are reliability and responsiveness. I don't want it to have glitches, and I want a lag-free experience. I do also want it to be quiet. Here's my usual use case: - Two monitors (they'll be 4k screens as part of this transition) - Gigabit wired ethernet connection - Two Chrome windows totaling between 10 and 30 tabs, usually with one or more of them streaming video and a couple more in big Google Sheets spreadsheets - One Microsoft Edge window, almost always one tab streaming video - Two Firefox windows totaling between 10 and 30 tabs, usually with one or more of them streaming video - An Excel spreadsheet - Notepad (lol) - Windows Media Player - I don't game on my computer or use any technical applications. I have very slight interest in starting to game on it. So, given that I'm streaming a fuckton of video, got a lot of tabs open across multiple browsers, and will have 4k displays, I've been trying to figure out how I should prioritize the computer parts needed to do the above super-duper astonishingly well. Here's been my guess, in descending order of priority: - CPU - RAM - SSD - Cooling system - Motherboard - Graphics card - Power - Case Here's my question: is that the way I should prioritize these parts, based on the use case described above?
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May 30, 2019 03:36
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This is for the parts picking thread. A flippant answer is to buy a Dell workstation for a lot of money.
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May 30, 2019 04:59
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surf rock posted:I'm planning to replace my current laptop with a custom desktop this year. I've realized that the two things I want most from my computer are reliability and responsiveness. I don't want it to have glitches, and I want a lag-free experience. I do also want it to be quiet. If you aren't gaming, integrated graphics can drive multiple UHD displays, but if you do intend to start gaming then you should consider a discrete GPU (although something like an AMD APU might suffice depending on exactly what you're running.) You really don't need a high-output PSU, even for gaming; I'd wager your entire setup, even with a single dGPU (which can draw 375 W max but likely far less based on power connector limits) will consume far less than 500 W. You'd want to take into consideration whether or not you're starting off with a dGPU, planning to add one later, or not planning to add one ever; without one I'd guess total system draw will be roughly 100 W. A decent low-to-midrange CPU (e.g. Intel i3, i5; Ryzen 3, 5) should be more than enough for the activity described, and I'd probably just use the stock cooler. If anything, having sufficient RAM will be necessary for your browser tabs and large spreadsheets; I'd guess 16 GB should suffice. Always put the OS on an SSD; a SATA drive should suffice but NVMe isn't much more expensive nowadays. Honestly for your use I'd just go with a prebuilt; something in the $500-1k range should suffice. For example, I just saw a [now ended] sale on a Dell gaming desktop a day or two ago; Ryzen 7, RX 580 for ~$650.
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May 30, 2019 08:24
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Atomizer posted:If you aren't gaming, integrated graphics can drive multiple UHD displays, but if you do intend to start gaming then you should consider a discrete GPU (although something like an AMD APU might suffice depending on exactly what you're running.) Thank you for your advice, I really appreciate it. I do have a pair of follow-up questions that I hope are thread-appropriate: 1.) When I look at prebuilt systems, some of the parts are very consistently listed in clear detail (CPU and video card especially) but other parts tend to be glossed over (like the RAM and storage just saying the quantity and not saying their model number or whatever). If I'm buying a prebuilt from Dell/HP/Lenovo and it's one of their nicer desktops, am I likely to be getting bottom-of-the-barrel stuff if it's not named? I guess I could probably just call them and ask for more information, as well. 2.) How meaningful is the difference between DDR4 at 2666MHz vs. DDR4 at 3200MHz? My understanding is that the former RAM is totally solid and the latter is the top-of-the-line speed, but maybe the gap is more important than I'm perceiving. Would having more of the slower RAM help make up the difference? Thanks again!
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May 31, 2019 01:03
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surf rock posted:Thank you for your advice, I really appreciate it. I do have a pair of follow-up questions that I hope are thread-appropriate: It's good to have an eye for this sort of detail. You should assume that anything not explicitly stated - any brand, any spec, etc., - is variable/subject to change. A system with a "2 TB HDD" could have anything that fits the details advertised, so any rotational speed, any manufacturer, etc., although the ODMs generally have supply contracts, so it's more likely you'd get one specific model of drive early in the laptop's manufacture, and maybe a different drive later on when the first supply contract runs out and is replaced. Now that doesn't mean the components included in a system are bad by any means; the ODM is motivated to ship products that work fine and don't need to be returned/repaired. Unspecified RAM parameters just mean speed and timings aren't guaranteed, but they'll be within the motherboard/chipset's specs. This is actually important for the vendor not to mention specs if they're subject to change, because they can't promise one thing and deliver another, so it's best to just publish the specs they're certain of. As far as RAM speed concerned, it's more of an issue with Ryzen systems than with Intel. Typically the most important consideration is to have enough RAM (which is why I mentioned it after seeing you deal with lots of tabs like I do, and huge spreadsheets,) and second that it's in a dual-channel configuration (which is a simple way to maximize the performance of the RAM you already have,) then beyond that you can look into getting faster RAM. So if I was building a system in your place, I'd look for 2x8 GB sticks, and at a speed priced within my budget (the highest-speed stuff is likely overpriced for the performance advantage it confers.) Some applications are more sensitive to memory speed than others, but you should be fine without getting the fastest, most expensive RAM. You can't really have "too much" RAM, or "too fast" RAM, but if you get components far beyond your needs you're just wasting money. (And in a gaming build with a reasonable budget, you'd be sinking funds into worthless areas instead of upgrading the components most important for performance like the GPU.)
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May 31, 2019 04:07
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So the USB 3 ports on the front of my chassi seems to be broken, but I have a split cable with both USB 3 and USB 2. Is it possible to connect to USB 2 instead, in case it's the port on the motherboard that's the issue? (seems unlikely but you never know)
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May 31, 2019 10:10
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netcat posted:So the USB 3 ports on the front of my chassi seems to be broken, but I have a split cable with both USB 3 and USB 2. Is it possible to connect to USB 2 instead, in case it's the port on the motherboard that's the issue? (seems unlikely but you never know)  Can you post an image of the splitter cable you have?
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May 31, 2019 15:43
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Crotch Fruit posted:The USB 3 and USB 2 connectors on your motherboard are physically not compatible, USB 3 has more pins. Here is a picture showing the ends of the cables that plug into the motherboard headers, notice the USB 3 is much larger. Yeah I know the connectors are incompatible. But looking for images now I realize that no it won't work:  I have something like that except the usb 2 and 3 cables are in the same sheathing so I thought there might be some backwards compatibility thing going on, but obviously 2 is a separate cable.
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May 31, 2019 16:41
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netcat posted:I have something like that except the usb 2 and 3 cables are in the same sheathing so I thought there might be some backwards compatibility thing going on, but obviously 2 is a separate cable.
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May 31, 2019 17:32
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Llamadeus posted:I think if it's the motherboard connector that's the problem it'd still be possible to use a 2->3 adapter, though obviously you'd be limited to 2.0 speeds. I gave this a try but didn't work unfortunately, probably the usb front panel thing that's broken somehow. I could buy a new one I guess but I don't really feel like wasting any more time on this...
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Jun 1, 2019 20:57
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About a 70++ Lenovo battery directly from newegg, not a 3rd party listing on newegg. Everything about the packaging and battery looks legit, and the security seal was intact. The date on the label on the outside of the box is 2019-01-25. The date on the battery itself is 2017.10 (which I assume would be March 2017). Is this normal?
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Jun 1, 2019 23:23
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Can someone explain why wifi speed tests are all over the place for me? Sometimes I get 5Mbps and other times I get 180Mbps. I'm on Verizon Fios using a mesh router to boost coverage in my bedroom, which was super spotty before I got it. Sometimes my internet will cut out and I'll need to switch from the 5g network to the 2.4g (and vice versa) and it'll work just fine, I'm wondering if that is related? And any tips on mesh placement? As of now I have it behind my dresser, because that's unfortunately the only spot it'll fit.
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Jun 6, 2019 01:13
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yoohoo posted:Can someone explain why wifi speed tests are all over the place for me? Sometimes I get 5Mbps and other times I get 180Mbps. I'm on Verizon Fios using a mesh router to boost coverage in my bedroom, which was super spotty before I got it. Sometimes my internet will cut out and I'll need to switch from the 5g network to the 2.4g (and vice versa) and it'll work just fine, I'm wondering if that is related? Radios cutting out entirely is usually due to something fucky going on with the operating system or hardware in my experience. Update the firmware and disconnect any external devices that you have connected to the router. I have a TP-Link router that became really unstable when I had a misbehaving USB drive hooked up to it. Running at 80mhz channel width will also subject you to interference issues if you’re not in a quiet zone.
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Jun 6, 2019 01:32
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5 GHz also doesn't have the range or ability to punch through walls and floors that 2.4 does. Especially if it's older construction/non-drywall walls.
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Jun 6, 2019 02:06
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I know this isn't really for the right place, but I didn't see a relevant megathread. I'm trying to extricate myself from Google's ecosystem- mail, maps, calendar, browser, file storage, and the like- and was wondering if you dudes knew any solid alternatives. I've switched over to duckduckgo, and I'm looking at Protonmail and mail.com, as well as already using Firefox on my pc. What else should I be checking out? EDIT- Found this link: https://impossiblehq.com/complete-guide-leaving-google/ Narzack fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 01:39
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Startpage.com is pretty good as a search engine and relies on Google's index for results.
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Jun 8, 2019 23:04
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Is there a megathread for Smart Home stuff?
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Jun 10, 2019 23:55
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fletcher posted:Is there a megathread for Smart Home stuff? Yeah, it's in IYG: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635963
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Jun 11, 2019 01:14
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I am an idiot and lost my router adapter in a move. I got an ASUS RT-AC68P and need a replacement cord for cheap that won't gently caress the router and won't burn my house down. Suggestions?
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Jun 12, 2019 09:44
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Call Asus support and get the model number for that AC adapter, then search it on Amazon and eBay. Or see if they'll send or sell you one.
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Jun 12, 2019 15:05
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Alternatively, look on the label of the router to see what voltage, current and polarity it expects, then buy an adapter with the same plug, polarity, voltage and equal or greater current rating (the current rating is the max it can supply, not what it forces down your router).
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Jun 12, 2019 16:28
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Call Asus support and get the model number for that AC adapter, then search it on Amazon and eBay. Or see if they'll send or sell you one. I called Asus to ask for a replacement power supply for a PG279Q monitor and they told me to get hosed. God drat $800 monitor and they can't even let me buy a replacement. The ones on ebay looked like some fake knockoffs that would catch fire or stupid expensive so I ended up getting one for cheaper in the UK and had a friend bring it back to the US. So dumb.
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Jun 12, 2019 18:35
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It's not all that dangerous, get something with matching power. Alternatively, I'll pay shipping on the product, send it to me.
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Jun 12, 2019 18:44
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Geemer posted:Alternatively, look on the label of the router to see what voltage, current and polarity it expects, then buy an adapter with the same plug, polarity, voltage and equal or greater current rating (the current rating is the max it can supply, not what it forces down your router). Trouble is, it doesn't always say, stupidly. If not, just look up the adapter and find out its specs, and get one that's not a ripoff like an official one from Asus will definitely be.
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Jun 12, 2019 19:54
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Alright, I'm having a USB issue. I use a Logitech G13 gamepad for, well, gaming, and recently it's been malfunctioning by sort of freezing up and not responding to input for a few seconds (3-5.) Basically if I'm not applying input at the moment and then it freezes, it won't respond at all but seems to queue up the last command or so and executes it when it begins to respond again. Alternately, if I'm holding a key and then it freezes it will continue to apply that input so my character will continue running off in an unintended direction. The G13 does not at any time, however, disconnect or power-cycle; it looks like it normally does so there's really no warning that it's malfunctioning until I lose control mid-game. This happens pretty regularly, every few minutes or so (although if it happens during a break in the action I might not notice so I can't really determine the exact frequency.) This particular G13 is several years old, so on the off chance it's going bad after years of heavy use, I took my backup (Amazon has sold it at a deep discount so I bought a backup because I really like it) out of the box and tried it out, with the exact same behavior. So this issue has something to do with the host PC rather than the gamepad, although no other USB device has exhibited any problems whatsoever; I also tried it on different USB ports with the same results. I also haven't changed the hardware configuration of this PC in a while, including other USB devices. It's a little frustrating because only this one type of device is affected, but I can't tell if this is related to some recent Windows update because nowadays they break random features. Anyone got any thoughts? Edit: I found this and this, and I have recently tweaked Discord to try to get it to display on the G13's LCD (which is a useful feature and otherwise one of the only uses I can think of for it now!) I'll play around with it and see if that fixes the problem. Edit 2: That appears to have been the source of the problem! So don't link Discord to LGS, folks! It will make certain hardware components malfunction, because that makes total sense! 
Atomizer fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Jun 13, 2019 |
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Jun 13, 2019 01:09
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Atomizer posted:Alright, I'm having a USB issue. I use a Logitech G13 gamepad for, well, gaming, and recently it's been malfunctioning by sort of freezing up and not responding to input for a few seconds (3-5.) Basically if I'm not applying input at the moment and then it freezes, it won't respond at all but seems to queue up the last command or so and executes it when it begins to respond again. Alternately, if I'm holding a key and then it freezes it will continue to apply that input so my character will continue running off in an unintended direction. The G13 does not at any time, however, disconnect or power-cycle; it looks like it normally does so there's really no warning that it's malfunctioning until I lose control mid-game. Holy gently caress, I was getting ready to post this exact issue. Whoa. Thanks for your update, bro! Narzack fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jun 13, 2019 |
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Jun 13, 2019 20:29
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Do you guys know if there is a way to repair a key on a mechanical keyboard. I have a blackwidow ultimate 2013 that I bought secondhand a few years ago. Good board, just when I got it, the right arrow key didn't work. I popped off the cap and depressed the switch a bunch, but it still doesn't work. Is there any way to even diagnose a problem like that? I have no idea when or how it stopped working, since I bought it in this state.
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Jun 15, 2019 19:30
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Narzack posted:Do you guys know if there is a way to repair a key on a mechanical keyboard. I have a blackwidow ultimate 2013 that I bought secondhand a few years ago. Good board, just when I got it, the right arrow key didn't work. I popped off the cap and depressed the switch a bunch, but it still doesn't work. Is there any way to even diagnose a problem like that? I have no idea when or how it stopped working, since I bought it in this state. Yeah, you can try spraying some contact cleaner into the key itself (with the switch depressed) which might work, or go further and desolder the switch and put a new one in. That's almost guaranteed to work as long as there's no damage to the circuit board. You'll need to remove the case to access the PCB but they're usually just held on by a dozen or so screws. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja4U75kF1Jw I forget which switch type the razer boards use but I think they used to be Kailh switches. You'll want to look for replacements by stem color. It should be possible to get a single switch for $1-2 but you'll also need some soldering stuff. A can of contact cleaner is like $7: https://smile.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ If you have trouble with finding anything feel free to stop by the keyboard thread, where someone probably owns the exact model you have and knows more about it than I do: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3825351
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Jun 15, 2019 20:41
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My brother's PSU (Antec VP-450) doesn't have an 8-pin connector for the new GPU he got (XFX RX580 GTR Black Edition, paired with an older Core i3-4330). The PSU does have a bunch of unused molex power connectors. Would I be ok using this? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matter...=gateway&sr=8-3
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Jun 16, 2019 05:14
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Narzack posted:Holy gently caress, I was getting ready to post this exact issue. Whoa. Thanks for your update, bro! Yup, this was definitely the problem, and de-integrating Discord from LGS has fixed it. It sucks too, because when it worked the whole gamepad would change colors based on who was speaking at that moment, which is like the one actual productive use of RGB lighting!
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Jun 16, 2019 07:39
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teagone posted:My brother's PSU (Antec VP-450) doesn't have an 8-pin connector for the new GPU he got (XFX RX580 GTR Black Edition, paired with an older Core i3-4330). The PSU does have a bunch of unused molex power connectors. Would I be ok using this? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matter...=gateway&sr=8-3 I'm thinking I should actually get him a new PSU instead since that VP-450 is pretty old lol. [edit] Ended up getting this 600W PSU for ~$37 after tax and promo code: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTP6QKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHLMCbKZ6WV44?th=1 — That should be ok, yeah? teagone fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 12:57
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i would do this before that and wouldnt think twice about it: https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-m12...0a4016f0a24060d 5 year warranty, fully modular cable setup vs not modular at all and 3 year warranty imo, power supply is not where you save $14 basically anything in the similar price range with bronze rating/full modular/good name brand (of which EVGA is, i have an EVGA power supply a few feet from me) seasonic makes good ones too
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Jun 16, 2019 16:41
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Statutory Ape posted:i would do this before that and wouldnt think twice about it: https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-m12...0a4016f0a24060d Yeah, I'm reading the BR series is kinda cheapo but decent. How about this one? Semi-modular 650W Corsair PSU with 5-year warranty https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F7XCBBD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 I can get that one for like ~$49 shipped after tax, no rebates needed or anything. This German tech site gave it a good review: https://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/netzteile/corsair_vengeance_650m_750m/s10.php teagone fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 21:00
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Atomizer posted:Yup, this was definitely the problem, and de-integrating Discord from LGS has fixed it. It sucks too, because when it worked the whole gamepad would change colors based on who was speaking at that moment, which is like the one actual productive use of RGB lighting! Same. Worked on my end, too. Rexxed posted:Yeah, you can try spraying some contact cleaner into the key itself (with the switch depressed) which might work, or go further and desolder the switch and put a new one in. That's almost guaranteed to work as long as there's no damage to the circuit board. You'll need to remove the case to access the PCB but they're usually just held on by a dozen or so screws.
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Jun 18, 2019 00:35
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