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H110Hawk posted:Renters insurance wouldn't replace landlord provided furniture. But yes everyone should have it.
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Jun 12, 2019 02:44
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i like nice words
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peanut posted:00. scented candles spend less on candles
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Jun 12, 2019 17:50
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I haven't even started painting my house yet, so I'm about two projects ahead of myself now, but whatever I'm bored at work. I'm thinking about building a short mortared stone wall. It would be two sections, each eight to ten feet, maybe three feet tall, and two feet wide at the absolute most. I'd put a gate between the two walls and maybe some small mounting bracket of some sort for attaching lights. Something roughly like this, although this doesn't appear to be mortar'd:  Mortar will be necessary because buying all rocks that would work for dry stacking would be about five times more expensive than other, more generic stone. ($500 for 1.5 tons of Pennsylvania flat stone vs $60 for 1 ton of...not that stone.) I haven't gone to look at the $60/ton stone yet though, so maybe I'll get lucky and it will be dry stackable. It sounds like building a wall like that isn't terribly complicated. Dig a trench that reaches below the frost line, lay down tamped crushed stone, then start placing stones and mortaring. That's reductive of course, and there's obviously a lot of technique and artwork to applying mortar that I'm sure I'll gently caress up completely. What do you guys think, sound reasonable? Also if I do a great job (hah) I'd absolutely do something foolish and try to build something like this in a future section 
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Jun 19, 2019 18:44
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It's a bit of a dying art but "dry stone walls" have been built for centuries out of whatever stones are lying about, so it might be worth give some online resources a gander before you commit to mortar. That said, it's probably fine! I loving hate working with mortar, mind you, but it takes all kinds.
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Jun 19, 2019 18:51
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House update. Im in the process of fixing up a house in multiple stages. I'd like to post an initial progress update: Here is the front of the house when we bought it:  Here is a picture of the house now, 3 weeks later:  Here is a picture of the back of the house when we bought it:  Here is a picture of it now:  Here is a picture of the house when we bought it:  Here is a picture of it now:  Total number of broken toilets trashed (these do not include the already existing toilets inside the three bathrooms): 5 Thanks for looking!
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Jun 19, 2019 23:24
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What the hell is even happening in that first pic? Is it a tarp across the driveway going into a tent made of tarps on the left? How did you come into possession of this property in such a state? I have so many questions and need details.
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Jun 19, 2019 23:46
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Woahhh you've been busy!! <3 <3
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Jun 19, 2019 23:48
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It's a property purchased in the San Francisco Bay Area. This changes a lot of the calculus because: 1) Bay area houses are super expensive due to land. It makes feasible sense to buy a distressed property and completely reform or even demolish/rebuild. 2) Prices for fixing things, while expensive, are minor compared to the cost of purchasing in the first place. As to the history behind the property? this probably is an essay in itself, but the TLDR:
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Jun 19, 2019 23:59
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I thought this was a house with a collapsed garage which you had rebuilt as a 2-story garage/apartment at first glance. Looking closer at these small pictures (  jaded burnout, I don't care if you didn't do it) I see that that isn't the case.
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Jun 20, 2019 00:04
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I love the gutterfall in the last picture. And the structural sculpture for the bird feeders. So the tarps are covering a giant play house kinda thing?
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Jun 20, 2019 05:46
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H110Hawk posted:I thought this was a house with a collapsed garage which you had rebuilt as a 2-story garage/apartment at first glance. Looking closer at these small pictures ( I dint do nuffin guv
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Jun 20, 2019 07:49
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Is the playhouse that little green structure in the back of the last picture? It's very cute
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Jun 20, 2019 07:59
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ntan1 posted:It's a property purchased in the San Francisco Bay Area. Yep, there's all the information necessary. Good job. That looks like it was a hell of a lot of work.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:54
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Brute Squad posted:I love the gutterfall in the last picture. And the structural sculpture for the bird feeders. Yup, the tarps are covering a gigantic wood structure with a carved out boat inside, all made by the previous owner's son, who was eccentric (and a carpenter). They used the sturdiest wood available. The gutters need to be replaced because the previous owner's son hosed with them. QuarkJets posted:Is the playhouse that little green structure in the back of the last picture? It's very cute The green structure is just a shed. Which is sort of funny because there already is another shed on the property (but the green one is a keeper because it is a truly built shed).
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Jun 20, 2019 18:36
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Sorry for long lists but this is the way of life when dealing with a major fix-up. These are the different threads we are currently working on specifically tied to contractors/building:
Here is a list for other things that we have already been doing ourselves:
Oh, the attic inspection helped us realize a couple of important things that are very positive: The furnace and the ducting of the furnace looks very well done and completely intact; does not need to be replaced (I had thought there was a good chance it would need to be). There is no asbestos in the attic. ntan1 fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 19:02
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ntan1 posted:[*] We have a Garage door replacement estimate, but are working with another garage door company to get a second quote on Saturday for installation of electronic garage overhead doors. I like the retro manual garage doors. Now paint them avocado green.
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Jun 20, 2019 23:35
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Did you all know that Moen will just mail you faucet cartridges for free? Now both my showers have buttery-smooth knobs for zero dollars and less than one hour of work.
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Jun 20, 2019 23:44
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eddiewalker posted:Did you all know that Moen will just mail you faucet cartridges for free? Now both my showers have buttery-smooth knobs for zero dollars and less than one hour of work. If you're the original owner, yes. If not, call them anyway, they'll cut you a really good deal, even if the shipping is slow.
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Jun 21, 2019 02:55
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ntan1 posted:Sorry for long lists but this is the way of life when dealing with a major fix-up.
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Jun 21, 2019 13:23
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willroc7 posted:Mind if I ask how much this is going to run you? I’m curious about the insulation part, at least. We were quoted around a $1.50/sqft for removal because they didn't want to do it. (It would have pushed the job to a third day for a low margin item.)
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Jun 21, 2019 15:01
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$4.5/sqft total in the bay area, based on attic dimensions.
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Jun 21, 2019 17:30
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how thick are we talking? uk aims for 300mm
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Jun 21, 2019 20:06
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US seems to use 6 inches.
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Jun 21, 2019 20:30
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Does anyone have recommendations for window treatment companies or brands? I’m thinking about getting a combination of honeycomb shades and (maybe) Roman shades throughout the house- the pricing looks like it varies a ton, but I want something I won’t have to replace in 5 years from normal wear and tear.
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Jun 25, 2019 15:03
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BadSamaritan posted:Does anyone have recommendations for window treatment companies or brands? I’m thinking about getting a combination of honeycomb shades and (maybe) Roman shades throughout the house- the pricing looks like it varies a ton, but I want something I won’t have to replace in 5 years from normal wear and tear. Just don’t order blinds online thinking you’ll save money, it’s a hassle if they send you the wrong thing or if it doesn’t match what you saw online. Have a company show up with samples and measure your windows themselves. I made this mistake before, it was a pain to get things resolved and they wanted to charge me money to fix it.
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Jun 25, 2019 16:10
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BadSamaritan posted:Does anyone have recommendations for window treatment companies or brands? I’m thinking about getting a combination of honeycomb shades and (maybe) Roman shades throughout the house- the pricing looks like it varies a ton, but I want something I won’t have to replace in 5 years from normal wear and tear. We've been happy with blinds.com for our cordless light filtering cell shades. Pay the $160 or whatever to have the person measure and install them for you.
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Jun 25, 2019 17:15
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My office is in the basement which is partially finished. Problem is that the floor is uneven. A quick Google search suggests using a self-leveling compound to fix this. Everything suggests that this is **easy to use** just mix, pour and smooth. Any insight or recommendations?
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Jun 26, 2019 22:19
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Ok, follow up on our attempt to acquire a building permit for a remodel of the 2nd floor bedroom and bathroom. We failed to acquire a permit today because:
So in other news, we have a 3 bedroom 2 bathroom house until next week, when it will magically be 4 bedroom 2.5 bathrooms!
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Jun 26, 2019 23:20
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Glenn Quebec posted:My office is in the basement which is partially finished. Problem is that the floor is uneven. A quick Google search suggests using a self-leveling compound to fix this. Everything suggests that this is **easy to use** just mix, pour and smooth. Any insight or recommendations? Self leveling concrete is a bitch and a half to DIY. Don’t even think about it. Pay someone with experience and a crew. Any good flooring store can refer someone. I wasted $600 in materials trying to do it myself, and ended up with a less level surface than I started with, and there’s no do-overs without my exterior doors not closing right.
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Jun 27, 2019 01:23
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eddiewalker posted:Self leveling concrete is a bitch and a half to DIY. Don’t even think about it. Pay someone with experience and a crew. Any good flooring store can refer someone. Oh god, thank you for letting me know.
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Jun 27, 2019 05:15
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ntan1 posted:Ok, follow up on our attempt to acquire a building permit for a remodel of the 2nd floor bedroom and bathroom. We failed to acquire a permit today because: Well that all sounds.. not as bad as it could've been!
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Jun 27, 2019 07:35
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Glenn Quebec posted:Oh god, thank you for letting me know. Stuff is expensive too... $30/bag, which you mix in a 5 gallon bucket. It doesn't cover nearly as much as you'd think either. I think we probably went through like 35 bags fixing all the floors in our house. If you do it yourself, buy way more then you think you'll need, and don't try to get clever and only do part of an area... the border between the self level and the rest of the floor is not nearly as flat as you'd want.
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Jun 27, 2019 23:35
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Any guidance on spraying vs rollers for interior wall painting? We are going to eventually paint probably ~2/3 of the interior walls in the house in the upcoming year or so. I have a ~4ga Hitachi air compressor for the wood shop and while looking at July 4th sales etc saw sprayers and paint and the like on sale. That got me thinking about whether I should consider buying a sprayer and painting the interior walls with that instead? I would also likely use the sprayer outdoors or in a cabinet to put down finish on woodshop projects etc sometimes, so this wouldn't be a total one off expense if I went that way. So, is it worth doing, or just a waste of time / effort / expense vs painting with rollers? Given that I already have the compressor etc I was curious if I should take advantage. If it is worthwhile, any guidance on a cheap / mid-range sprayer to consider for interior paint applications?
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Jul 1, 2019 17:51
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That Works posted:Any guidance on spraying vs rollers for interior wall painting? I'm in the middle of rolling most of my house right now. It's probably 10+ hours of work to cut and roll one coat of primer and two coats of paint. I imagine spraying the paint on the wall would be maybe 2 hours, but the prep would be a hours and hours and hours. I can't imagine the effort involved with sealing your floor and every inch of trim would be worth it when cutting+rolling is so easy, if a tad slow.
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Jul 1, 2019 18:09
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That Works posted:Any guidance on spraying vs rollers for interior wall painting? Lacquer/shellac/polyurethane etc are much less viscous and lower solids than paint and so much easier to spray. A turbine rig like an Earlex will do okay too with a fat enough tip, but it’s not going to get the atomization or control you really need for a fine finish without lots of sanding to get rid of orange peel, and it still struggles with thick paint. I’ve never met a paint sprayer aside from a big professional rig that could compete with brush and roller on time and certainly not price. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 1, 2019 |
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Jul 1, 2019 18:51
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Speaking of paint, I live in a super rainy place and the paint on the outside deck that the previous owner applied is peeling like crazy. After I strip off the old paint, is there any reason not to use chalk paint outside (cost aside)? I saw a video where a guy mixed tung oil into the chalk paint, and another where they applied tung oil after the fact -- if I do that, will it create problems down the road when I repaint? edit: Pretend I said "milk paint" throughout, but I guess we have chalk paint available here as well. just another fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jul 1, 2019 |
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Jul 1, 2019 18:54
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That Works posted:Any guidance on spraying vs rollers for interior wall painting? I've wrestled with this one for some time now and despite being in a somewhat ideal situation (rooms with very little needing spray protection) I still haven't done it for a few reasons, but a big one being that you should really roll the paint after spraying anyway, so really you're not saving that much time for interior walls. Any comparison video I've seen has always been bullshit. But by all means give it a go and report back with empirical evidence one way or the other. I'll probably spray cabinetry since a super smooth finish is nice there.
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Jul 1, 2019 19:17
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Thanks all, seems like not a good way to go after all.
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Jul 1, 2019 19:38
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That Works posted:Any guidance on spraying vs rollers for interior wall painting? If you aren't a painter by trade I would not spray walls inside or outside. The setup work is really intense and if you aren't doing it daily it takes a LONG time. 3 of our neighbors just had their houses sprayed and it took the painters a day to set it up. I imagine that means it would take me a week and be done poorly. That Works posted:Thanks all, seems like not a good way to go after all. Just noticed this in the reply screen.
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Jul 1, 2019 19:42
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This is kind of a dumb simple question but how do people choose baseboard moulding? Currently, I have something similar to https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexand...3096C/205958689 which is fine and unoffensive and I don't mind how it looks but it's getting ripped out when I get my floors refinished. I'm kind of leaning towards something simple and square like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-7-16-in-x-3-1-4-in-x-96-in-Primed-Pine-Finger-Jointed-Base-Moulding-03112-93192C/205576573 (not necessarily those dimensions) but I don't know if there are visual and interior decorating reasons why this style wouldn't work. I also know there are different heights of same styles and I'm not sure how that translates visually (makes a small room look smaller if the moulding is 5 inches instead of 2 and a half for example). So I guess my question is are there kind of rules of thumb as far as how moulding styles and sizes can make a room feel? There is a similar moulding to the one I linked that is 5 1/2" as an example of how would this visually affect the room. I'm also leaning towards solid wood instead of MDF. Any strongly held opinions on that?
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Jul 2, 2019 17:46
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