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Der Shovel posted:This may have been discussed already, but does anyone have any idea how well the new GW Contrast paints work with airbrush primers? I'm not going to start buying their own rattle can primers when I have a bunch of high quality Vallejo aibrush primers etc. I'm just hoping the Contrast paints work with those. Decently well. The slightly satiny finish of the official primers seems to give the best results, but I've seen people have good results over Vallejo from an airbrush. I kind of want to try Vallejo, then satin sealer, and see how the contrast paints look over that.
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Jun 14, 2019 22:35
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grassy gnoll posted:A respirator sounds like a wise investment, then. You're looking at 30 bucks or so to not have a headache every time you paint, and to reduce the general level of lung damage you'll have over the years. Just because particulates don't smell doesn't mean they're great to breathe. I have no problem with buying a resporatior, but... I'm not airbrushing. This was just from stirring the paint, thinning it, and brushing it on. I had said model close to my face at times, but thats about it. I should probably just not use Tamyia paints.
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Jun 14, 2019 22:50
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Twincityhacker posted:I have no problem with buying a resporatior, but... I'm not airbrushing. This was just from stirring the paint, thinning it, and brushing it on. I had said model close to my face at times, but thats about it. Don't use Tamiya paints for handbrushing. They're designed for the airbrush. Literally any other miniature paint (or even craft paints) will handle better without any toxic fumes.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:24
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So as a new person who doesn't understand the differences, why might you want to air spray paint, or spray can prime your models instead of hand brushing a coat from like a Citadel pot onto your figures?
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Jun 14, 2019 23:27
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Z the IVth posted:Youtube has loads of videos on crafting dungeon terrain that will serve your needs well with very little effort. This is a small selection but there are literally dozens of videos and variations for each These are perfect, thank you! Don't know why I didn't think to check there.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:31
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Jst0rm posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHS9QhYF5e0 This is rad as hell. This base alone was savage.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:35
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Z the IVth posted:Don't use Tamiya paints for handbrushing. They're designed for the airbrush. drat, really? Good thing I checked with the thread then. Looks like I'll be picking up some different metalics then.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:37
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Spray priming covers very fast especially for larger models or numerous models arranged in a batch. Also you can do zenithal priming, although it is possible to approximate it drybrush techniques. Other downsides is the fumes/overspray/flammability and some brands can be picky about conditions to get a good coat (though I've generally used Rustoleum and found it fairly flexible in regards to temperature/humidity). An airbrush generally offers smooth coats, quick color transition blends, the versatility of all of your paint colors, priming or varnishing without fumes depending on paint, fast coverage of large items like vehicles, and other techniques that you can only get away with with an airbrush. Downsides are the equipment cost of $150+, overspray (you want something like a mini spray booth to catch particles and a respirator), extra materials, and a bit of an initial learning curve.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:45
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I said come in! posted:So as a new person who doesn't understand the differences, why might you want to air spray paint, or spray can prime your models instead of hand brushing a coat from like a Citadel pot onto your figures? A naked model, be it plastic, resin, or metal has a smooth non-porous surface. There's nothing for your paint to absorb into or stick to. So it will go on poorly and chip or flake off. An aerosol primer will go on evenly because it is sprayed, and has solvent in it which will bond to the surface making it massively less likely to chip or flake. The dry paint will also have a 'key' to the surface, a minute roughness that will let your normal paint grab onto the model as it is applied and as it dries. Airbrushed primers don't have the solvent property, so are somewhat weaker than aerosol. They go on evenly (with more control than aerosol) and you can more readily use different coloured primers in combination for pre-shading/highlighting effects. What they do to adhere is shrink as they dry, sticking tight to the surface and, again, leaving a keyed finish for your paints. Brush on undercoat, or even worse, normal paints used as undercoat, just give sub-standard results in all regards. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 23:45
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Twincityhacker posted:drat, really? Good thing I checked with the thread then. Looks like I'll be picking up some different metalics then. Vallejo Metal Color are really good for silvery types, and Scale75 are pretty nice in general, though slightly tricky to come by in the US. Vallejo Liquid Gold is great, buuut it's alcohol based. I said come in! posted:So as a new person who doesn't understand the differences, why might you want to air spray paint, or spray can prime your models instead of hand brushing a coat from like a Citadel pot onto your figures? Quicker and easier, mostly. I can zenethial prime a model with an airbrush in the same time it takes to hand-prime in one color. As long as you're not globbing your primer on when you do it by hand, you're good to go.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:45
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I said come in! posted:So as a new person who doesn't understand the differences, why might you want to air spray paint, or spray can prime your models instead of hand brushing a coat from like a Citadel pot onto your figures? Speed is one reason, if you are doing a bunch of models you can just give them all a couple of quick passes with a spray can in one batch and have a whole unit undercoated. Its also generally a nice thin primer coat with little effort. And price-wise per model spray paint is going to work out cheaper than citadel pots. There are also things you can do like zenithal highlighting which give you a jump on shading too. Cant speak to airbrushing, never touched one in my life, but I imagine the reasons are broadly similar. As an aside, I started getting back into the hobby about a year ago after a break of... probably about 20 years. Experimented with doing zenithal highlighting after seeing it in a few youtube videos, and it made a real difference. Were people doing that 20 years ago and I didnt know about it because I was a dumb kid/bad painter or is that a thing that became popular in the intervening years?
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Jun 14, 2019 23:46
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Thank you for the education, everyone!  Air spray painting is something I really want to do, but when looking at the equipment, especially the cleaning part, I nope'd my way on out of there. It looked so incredibly intimidating. I'm afraid I would just gently caress up very expensive equipment really fast.Spraycans are something I am going to try to look into more seriously here soon. I actually meant to buy some spraycans a few months ago and then just completely dropped the ball on doing it. I said come in! fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 23:49
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SiKboy posted:Were people doing that 20 years ago and I didnt know about it because I was a dumb kid/bad painter or is that a thing that became popular in the intervening years? I painted my lizardmen when I was 12 with ruined exterior wall paint I stole from a construction site and highlighters so don't worry you were better than some.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:51
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I painted my lizardmen when I was 12 with ruined exterior wall paint I stole from a construction site and highlighters so don't worry you were better than some. In investigating the attic of my mums house to see if I had any models lying around to practice on I found the bloodbowl team I painted using glass paints, on the rationale that the tub was very similar to the GW pots at the time, so the paint obviously had to be similar. Spoiler Warning; It was not. I said come in! posted:Thank you for the education, everyone! I love the effects I've seen people get with airbrushes, but I'm kind of with you on that tbh. I'll maybe think about it when I'm happier with my efforts with a regular brush. But spray cans are cheap, easy to get and easy to use. Just give it a go!
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Jun 15, 2019 00:04
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It's natural to look at an airbrush and feel intimidated. But understand that if you paint models with brushes, clean them, can work through shading and highlighting, basing models and apply tufts of fake grass etc: You're already completing a much more difficult, complex set of steps every time. Airbrushing will save you time, and money, and open up many more creative opportunities.
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Jun 15, 2019 00:34
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Twincityhacker posted:drat, really? Good thing I checked with the thread then. Looks like I'll be picking up some different metalics then. Vallejo Game/Model Air Colours are marketed for airbrush use but this just means they have been pre-thinned to just the right consistency to be brushed on out of the bottle. Their metallics in particular are excellent (this is specific to the Air range, the regular game/model colour range ones are poo poo). Unlike Tamiya paints they are water based so you don't have thinner issues either. If you want a truly shiny and chrome look you will need to dabble with an airbrush and lacquer paints. P.S if you have limited room think long and hard before comitting to an airbrush. Having a spray booth and all your kit out takes a lot of space and is a pain to clear up afterwards if you've deployed on the dining table. It's also really noisy so significant others/children/neighbors may not appreciate your goonish endeavours in the dead of night. This is something airbrush pros will fail to tell you and the main reason I've packed mine up. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 00:34
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GW gave this guy the full range of contrast paints and he took them for a spin. (or, his friend did, really). Probably the best real world example of them. He was incredibly thorough. Also answers the question people have about mixing paints and washes with the medium etc. He came to the conclusion I've been thinking as well. They're fine, they have been hugely overhyped, but for anyone that's been painting for even a little while, they might have limited use in the future for specific tasks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjaAJ0yJI_A&t=62s
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Jun 15, 2019 00:37
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Yeast posted:GW gave this guy the full range of contrast paints and he took them for a spin. (or, his friend did, really). I think GMG gave a far better review (and series of videos even) than this guy, who just sounds condescending even if his conclusions are sound. He does pitch towards painters, which is definitely not the target market for Contrast. Having used it myself I am definitely excited for it and look forward to using it in my workflow. 'Pro' painters aren't going to buy into the hype and will understand its place but I definitely think the hype is great for the average ham who's not really into painting if it means less grey plastic on the battlefield. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 00:46
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I found rattlecan priming a bit of a crapshoot (like there was a 1/3 chance to fuzz up no matter what precautions I took) and brush on priming was always just sort of sub standard. Air brush priming, once you have the set up, is basically fool proof so it's nice no longer having to worry about ruining a paintjob before I even start it. Probably not an issue for people who have rattlecans figured out better than I did.
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Jun 15, 2019 01:06
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The Moon Monster posted:I found rattlecan priming a bit of a crapshoot (like there was a 1/3 chance to fuzz up no matter what precautions I took) and brush on priming was always just sort of sub standard. Air brush priming, once you have the set up, is basically fool proof so it's nice no longer having to worry about ruining a paintjob before I even start it. Probably not an issue for people who have rattlecans figured out better than I did. Was it GW rattlecans? Their white has always had problems. In the UK Halfords Black and Grey have always gone in super smooth. The white can occasionally look dusty, but doesn't have the fuzzy texture.
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Jun 15, 2019 01:10
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Yeast posted:He came to the conclusion I've been thinking as well. They're fine, they have been hugely overhyped, but for anyone that's been painting for even a little while, they might have limited use in the future for specific tasks. This is about where I'm at too. I doubt I'm going to get any, since the results aren't so impressive that I'd want to buy a whole bunch of new paints (doubly so given that they come in GW pots). If people come up with some really cool uses for Contrast Medium, I might grab that, but that's probably it. They definitely look cool for people who just want to bang out some decent-looking figures though.
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Jun 15, 2019 01:11
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:This is rad as hell. This base alone was savage. yeah his basing is beyond. What I like is he stays in range. He could make giant dioramas and they would be amazing but the fact he is staying on a normal base is impressive. Check this base out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vDiP3bZmoM&t=10168s i think I jumped it to the correct time.
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Jun 15, 2019 01:12
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The Moon Monster posted:I found rattlecan priming a bit of a crapshoot (like there was a 1/3 chance to fuzz up no matter what precautions I took) and brush on priming was always just sort of sub standard. Air brush priming, once you have the set up, is basically fool proof so it's nice no longer having to worry about ruining a paintjob before I even start it. Probably not an issue for people who have rattlecans figured out better than I did. Air brush priming is superior so that's always preferred, but I used to get the fuzzies sometimes too. It never happened again after I started shaking the absolute hell out of the cans for five minutes, like it owed me money and if I shook it hard enough gold bricks might fall out.
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Jun 15, 2019 01:40
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Went by GW and they still had models left to demo with the contrast paints. They were fun to use with lots of color variety. They are hit or miss depending on the color/application. They tint of the paints varies widely with some like the Magos Purple barely covering while the S*** Purple is almost as opaque as normal paint. I will be getting a few for my Nurgle and GSC KT stuff. This was done my gf who had 0 painting experience beforehand.  5m on this  goodness fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 02:51
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Ew.
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Jun 15, 2019 10:11
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JackMann posted:Decently well. The slightly satiny finish of the official primers seems to give the best results, but I've seen people have good results over Vallejo from an airbrush. Yeah that was my plan too. I've got Vallejo satin varnish and I figured I'd prime with (or grey) and then put a layer of varnish on top. E: Honestly what I'm mostly excited for with Contrasts is skin tones. For whatever reason I always have a fuckload of trouble with skin tones. Shaman Tank Spec fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 14:20
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Just about to go pick up my contrast paints. In the meantime, have some pictures of my last deployment minis.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:50
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Z the IVth posted:Vallejo Game/Model Air Colours are marketed for airbrush use but this just means they have been pre-thinned to just the right consistency to be brushed on out of the bottle. Their metallics in particular are excellent (this is specific to the Air range, the regular game/model colour range ones are poo poo)... Where does the Vallejo Metal line fall in this? It looks like my FLGS doesn't carry much outside camo colors.
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Jun 15, 2019 18:52
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Twincityhacker posted:Where does the Vallejo Metal line fall in this? It looks like my FLGS doesn't carry much outside camo colors. If you mean Vallejo Metal Colors, they are great and brush on just fine. They're pre-thinned too, though I usually thin them just a touch more.
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Jun 15, 2019 19:53
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I said come in! posted:Air spray painting is something I really want to do, but when looking at the equipment, especially the cleaning part, I nope'd my way on out of there. It looked so incredibly intimidating. I'm afraid I would just gently caress up very expensive equipment really fast You can't really gently caress up the equipment, I don't think. Unless you do something very stupid I guess (like using a huge compressor not meant for airbrushing and set it to a super high pressure level, or leave to dry a lot of very thick paint or product). I airbrush all my primer and base colors and the process is : get the primer in the airbrush tank, add some thinner, spray. Clean the nozzle from time to time (with just some tissue) to remove any dried paint. That's it. Super even coats, looks better than hand brushing ever could, for a fraction of the time. To clean I just empty the tank if needed, rinse with water to quickly remove the excess. Then pour some home-made cleaner (66% water, 33% IPA alcohol) in the tank, spray it, clean the tank with some tissue. Then pour a little bit of airbrush cleaner (not home-made) in the tank, spray some of it, and just let the rest sit there until next session (I'm lucky enough to have a small dedicated space for this in my basement). It might sound like a lot of step but it's really not!
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Jun 15, 2019 21:50
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Some experimentation with contrast paints today, hampered by the fact that only half my pre-order was in stock at the LGS. I've found that the S75 Inktensity inks mix really very well with the contrast medium, and get a very similar, if slightly more wash-like results, probably due to the water content of the inks. With non-contrast paints, the medium seems to act as a thicker glaze medium, without too much pooling. EDIT: Adding a picture; 
LazyAngel fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 21:57
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I picked up some contrast paints and messed around with them. The body is one coat talassar blue and the lips/mouth are one coat of volpus pink. I really like the pink especially. The primer is Tamyia light grey fine surface primer 
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Jun 15, 2019 22:28
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That looks really great for one coat. How much babysitting did you have to do for pooling and the like?
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Jun 15, 2019 22:50
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Theres some noticeable pooling on the bigger areas but for this paint it actually kinda works ok. Some of the others it looks sloppier. I definitely wasnt trying too hard to keep it under control this was really just a quick and dirty test.
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Jun 15, 2019 23:13
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after a bunch of sorting and yes/no/maybe systems i decided on Basilicanum Gray and Volupus Pink.
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Jun 16, 2019 00:00
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  So here's my Contrast test. I only got 3 colors with the bundle and those are Creed Camo (the pants), Militarum Green (Skin), and Aggaros Dunes (Leather tunic). I like the ease of application and the results to time ratio is pretty good, especially on a murkier skin tone model like this here (not my usual Ork flesh tone however). The pants look eh but i think that comes down to color choice more than Contrast itself. Overall i like the paints and it definitely has uses, but it may just be a "gently caress this i just need models done NOW" paint, and probably not something i'd use on bigger models that i wanted to put more care into.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:33
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That leather has a strong "dipped" vibe to it. Not that that's a bad thing, necessarily. The pants also have a look of a basecoat covered with a green wash. I guess these are mostly helping people skip a basecoat + wash process. Again, probably helpful for batch painting. Musing out loud.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:02
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Tadhg posted:That leather has a strong "dipped" vibe to it. Not that that's a bad thing, necessarily. Yeah, I can see what you mean. If this were the start of my army then I could totally rock with this scheme, because I actually like the look of everything (probably change the pants to brown though), but at this point I've got so many mini's painted in a completely different look that I'm not sure how willing I am to have models that stick out like that, even in a horde army like 40k Orks. I'm definitely going to play around with them on my AoS army though.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:43
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Tadhg posted:That leather has a strong "dipped" vibe to it. Not that that's a bad thing, necessarily. I think they're basically marketed as basecoat + wash replacements, so that's what they're all going to look like
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Jun 16, 2019 02:44
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I'm going to order a ton of scale75 paints, is there someone with low or free shipping over a certain amount that I should use to order from within Canada that is a good company to support?
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Jun 16, 2019 02:45
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