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I have a new garden shed, made of wood. No treatment, no finishing, just plain wooden boards. What's the proper way to coat it in something to preserve it against the weather? I want to paint it but I do not know if I need a special type of paint or whether I need a primer or some extra layer on top or ... you get the picture. What's the standard solution for a painted wooden shed?
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Jun 16, 2019 17:48
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Nastyman posted:Hope this isn't the wrong place to ask this, I figured either here or IYG. I've got this cooler box with no power adapter, and although I think I've seen this type of plug before I have no idea what it's called. If anyone knows what the right name for it is, hunting down a replacement should be a piece of cake. Make and model of cooler?
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Jun 16, 2019 17:48
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Droo posted:I've had success using a dremel to cut the screw head to accommodate a large flathead screwdriver, and let some wd40 soak in to the threads if it's a bolt. If you've had luck with WD40, imagine how much more you'd have if you picked up a can of penetrating oil.
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Jun 16, 2019 18:09
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EssOEss posted:I have a new garden shed, made of wood. No treatment, no finishing, just plain wooden boards. What's the proper way to coat it in something to preserve it against the weather? I want to paint it but I do not know if I need a special type of paint or whether I need a primer or some extra layer on top or ... you get the picture. What's the standard solution for a painted wooden shed? Hose it down, let it dry, apply primer, let that dry, and then apply exterior rated paint. Keep in mind that with paint, you get what you pay for -- cheap paint sucks. Depending on how big the shed is, you might also want to consider getting a paint sprayer (and if using an air-powered sprayer, an air compressor and hose).
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Jun 16, 2019 18:12
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H110Hawk posted:Make and model of cooler? There's nothing on it except the name of the importer and the model number LBB26-2. Googling it gives this, which appears to be the correct model. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32322960328.html
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Jun 16, 2019 18:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hose it down, let it dry, apply primer, let that dry, and then apply exterior rated paint. Keep in mind that with paint, you get what you pay for -- cheap paint sucks. Depending on how big the shed is, you might also want to consider getting a paint sprayer (and if using an air-powered sprayer, an air compressor and hose). Rolling paint is pretty quick and easy compared to the learning curve of spraying. Get good rollers, a good handle that can go on a pole, and said pole (it's a pushbroom handle basically.) The first few rolls will likely be thin until the roller gets really saturated and you get the hang of it. If your primer looks thin after drying a second coat is cheap and easy and will make your tinted final coat look better and last longer. Depending on where you are in the country make sure you are within the temperature range on the can. Some places are hitting triple digits right now. From memory those ranges top out at 90-something°F.
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Jun 16, 2019 18:27
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Motronic posted:If you've had luck with WD40, imagine how much more you'd have if you picked up a can of penetrating oil. Apparently other people know about this too: https://www.google.com/amp/s/oppositelock.kinja.com/make-your-own-kick-rear end-penetrating-oil-1739690558/amp
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Jun 16, 2019 20:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm guessing it's too firmly wedged to do something like superglue a rod onto it? I don't know how much torque superglue can withstand. Oh, yeah, not a chance that will work. It's stuck in there firm enough that I'm not even sure the suggestion of having an auto shop weld another long bolt onto the end of it would work, simply because there is SO little space in there to work with the welds would be tiny and weak. This isn't the picture of mine, but it's one of a similar model and year:  It's almost an inch recessed, and VERY little room on the outside of it. And it is just round on the outside of the screw, not a hex, so can't get a socket, though I've yet to try one of those "broken/rounded off hex bolt remover" things like this:  There might be just enough room for that to fit in there...I do have that exact set, but it's in my storage unit somewhere (gently caress being "between homes".)
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Jun 16, 2019 21:58
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I’m in the process of installing a new acrylic tub and I have a few questions. The tub instructions say to level the tub and set in a mortar bed, which I intend to do. The issue is that the tub came with these leveling feet (https://imgur.com/a/GZED5cE) which seem to prevent me from actually getting it level, not matter how much I fiddle with them. Taking them out I am able to get the lib level if I wedge it against the wall, but this leaves it with no bottom support aside from the front apron. I imagine this will be different once the mortar bed is installed, as the fiberglass feet pictured should indent into the mortar. Do I need to keep these feet it when I level it or are they just an optional tool? The floor I am setting it on is 100% level, surprisingly enough.
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Jun 17, 2019 01:54
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My machinist buddy uses a homemade mix of equal parts automatic transmission fluid and acetone and it works amazingly well, especially if you can soak the part. Yeah, that's a pretty common mixture. I've used it and it's totally fine. My unscientific tests say Kryoil works better, and PB Blaster works about as well. In the end, they probably all work about the same. Which is to say multiples better than WD40 for this application. DrBouvenstein posted:Oh, yeah, not a chance that will work. It's stuck in there firm enough that I'm not even sure the suggestion of having an auto shop weld another long bolt onto the end of it would work, simply because there is SO little space in there to work with the welds would be tiny and weak. You need to go inside, not outside. See if you can get an screw extractor to work: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-5-Pack-Steel-5-in-Screw-Extractor-Set/1000594887 You may need to drill a bit to get it started, since the profile of an allen head isn't deep enough for the proper size of extractor. Past that, it's not worth doing because it's just a compressor. It's a disposable part. I get it's a pain in the rear end to evac and refill the system and you'll need to replace a dryer, but at some point your time and cost of extractors simply isn't worth it any more. No garage that charges people money would even attempt this because their labor rate would almost immediately negate any cost savings here.
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Jun 17, 2019 05:38
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my apartment complex installed glue up shower walls a few months back because the tile wall was falling apart. the problem is, they suck butts and are bad at everything and didnt caulk three sides of the walls and now one of them has mostly peeled up off the shower wall because the glue completely failed and the caulk is failing is there an easy way to fix this short of taking the walls down and starting over? can i just caulk/recaulk the edges of the glue up walls as needed to hold them down and just keep limping it along until i move out? i'm trying to avoid calling maintenance because a) they're assholes b) they dont actually fix poo poo and c) it takes forever just to get them to come out (when i called to say my wall was falling apart it was six months before i saw anybody, when i called to say "the cutoff for my toilet is leaking a disturbing amount of water to the tune of a gallon plus every hour" they waited 24 hours and two rounds of mopping up the bathroom floor because my bucket overflowed)
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Jun 17, 2019 05:55
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I have a need for more outlets in my garage - I have a security camera, garage door opener and automatic sprinklers on two outlets. I recently bought a smart garage door opener and it needs to be plugged in too - Is it a terrible idea to get a heavy duty power strip and just use that? Or should I look at actually adding an outlet? I have batteries for electric tools that I need to charge too, I usually just unplug the sprinkler system when that happens.
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Jun 17, 2019 18:27
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Motronic posted:No garage that charges people money would even attempt this because their labor rate would almost immediately negate any cost savings here. Sure, but my time is worthless. But you're right about buying various extractors, but so far I've only bought a left-hand screw set from HF. I'm just really trying to avoid doing the compressor that because then it's a garage fix. I'm not buying an AC manifold and evac pump set, and I don't think that's a "tool" commonly loaned at from auto parts stores. I looked at the Advance Auto and AutoZones near me and they've got tool kits for ball joints, clutches, struts, etc... but no AC manifold sets. Ugh, I'm already miserable driving in that car and the temps haven't really even hit 80 yet...
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Jun 17, 2019 19:14
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Medullah posted:I have a need for more outlets in my garage - I have a security camera, garage door opener and automatic sprinklers on two outlets. I recently bought a smart garage door opener and it needs to be plugged in too - Is it a terrible idea to get a heavy duty power strip and just use that? Or should I look at actually adding an outlet? I have batteries for electric tools that I need to charge too, I usually just unplug the sprinkler system when that happens. The camera and sprinklers don't draw much power at all, the battery chargers might draw an bit if you have several plugged in fast charging the newer high capacity batteries, but all of that should be under the 15 amps a decent power strip should be rated for. I would make sure to plug in the garage door opener on it's own outlet, though. Some motors (not sure if garage door openers are included here) have a momentary 'inrush current' that is much higher than their regular draw, and that can trip surge protectors. If you want to make absolutely sure you are good, the back/bottom of each electrical device you own should have it's listed input voltage and amperage printed or stamped on there. Regular 3 prong outlets are rated at 15 amps, so add up all the input amps of the devices you want to plug into the surge protectors and see what you get.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:29
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Nevets posted:The camera and sprinklers don't draw much power at all, the battery chargers might draw an bit if you have several plugged in fast charging the newer high capacity batteries, but all of that should be under the 15 amps a decent power strip should be rated for. Yeah the garage door opener is on it's own outlet, which only has it on it. I guess I could have clarified that earlier. Thanks!
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Jun 17, 2019 19:32
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DrBouvenstein posted:Sure, but my time is worthless. But you're right about buying various extractors, but so far I've only bought a left-hand screw set from HF. A last resort option, sort of replacing the whole unit, would be to drill the screw out and re-tap the hole.
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Jun 17, 2019 20:47
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Medullah posted:I have a need for more outlets in my garage - I have a security camera, garage door opener and automatic sprinklers on two outlets. I recently bought a smart garage door opener and it needs to be plugged in too - Is it a terrible idea to get a heavy duty power strip and just use that? Or should I look at actually adding an outlet? I have batteries for electric tools that I need to charge too, I usually just unplug the sprinkler system when that happens. A power strip is fine. The largest draw there is that door opener, but you already said that it's on its own outlet. A lot of people use power strips in garages above workbenches.
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Jun 17, 2019 22:17
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Xun posted:I do not know how the braze but there is a welding section of the workshop with people I can ask to teach me. Thanks though! I have only ever used wooden dop sticks and a wet wheel. You are talking about heating the wax and securing the gem to the stick to then be used in the ultratec. you could cut a V in the pliers you linked or use a wooden dowel and drill a hole in the end to make a wooden handle for the end of the metal dop stick.
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Jun 17, 2019 23:03
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BENGHAZI 2 posted:my apartment complex installed glue up shower walls a few months back because the tile wall was falling apart. the problem is, they suck butts and are bad at everything and didnt caulk three sides of the walls and now one of them has mostly peeled up off the shower wall because the glue completely failed and the caulk is failing Squirt some liquid nails behind it and tape it in place until it's dry maybe. Caulk around the edges for cheap insurance.
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Jun 17, 2019 23:58
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My wife has become enamored with the control Alexa has given her so I bought a couple of TPLink wifi controlled 3-way light swtiches for her studio. I wired the first one in - (I assume correctly; we'll get to that) with the two blacks going to load, the read as the travelor, green to ground and white bundled to the neutral cluster in the gang box. Before I did the second switch I turned the breaker on to test; the switch turned the light off and on (at this point tragically perhaps, I did not fip the other dumb 3-way to test). I pushed it all into the gang, connect it to wifi and it turns the lights off and on. Next I go to the other 3-way; and open it up - there is no neutral cluster to hook the fancy wifi up to. TPLink says it won't work without it. I'm hoping it's just outside the gangbox and I can cut a hole in the gang box to find it - or the light switch on the opposite side of the wall has a neutral in it and I can just run a wire between them (this works right, neutral just has to get back to the box?) OR can I just use the ground wire for both ground and neutral? Anyway, I hook the old switch back in; and then I notice that if it is in the down position, then the wifi switch doesn't turn off or on the lights (I can hear it switching), but if the it's in the up position the wifi switch turns the lights off and on. Does this mean I have the travelor in the wrong spot? It is very possible that the folks who did this (themselves) made red one of the loads, and I didn't look at the switch to determine the travelor, I just went by color. The way I understand it a switch is a switch and even if both 3ways aren't wifi, they should still work like a 3way.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:54
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BENGHAZI 2 posted:my apartment complex installed glue up shower walls a few months back because the tile wall was falling apart. the problem is, they suck butts and are bad at everything and didnt caulk three sides of the walls and now one of them has mostly peeled up off the shower wall because the glue completely failed and the caulk is failing Make sure the wall behind the shower wall is as clean and dry as possible and try a good adhesive like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SikaBond-10-1-fl-oz-Interior-and-Exterior-Ultimate-Grab-Adhesive-476098/205671703 If you have an adjustable shower curtain rod you may be able to use it to apply pressure against the wall until the adhesive sets up. Use a piece of plywood or similar maybe 6”x6” under the rod to spread the pressure. Let it dry/cure for several hours before silicone caulking the edges to allow air to get behind the wall as the adhesive dries.
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Jun 20, 2019 15:21
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porktree posted:Anyway, I hook the old switch back in Not sure why you're surprised that you are getting unexpected results when you have it set up wrong. On every 3-way smart switch I've seen all switches must be part of the system. A generic switch simply doesn't work, and in some cases (like the Honeywell Z Wave switches) leaving a regular switch wired up will actually destroy a smart switch at the other end (travelers aren't intended to be line voltage on these and many other smart switches).
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Jun 20, 2019 15:26
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porktree posted:My wife has become enamored with the control Alexa has given her so I bought a couple of TPLink wifi controlled 3-way light swtiches for her studio. I wired the first one in - (I assume correctly; we'll get to that) with the two blacks going to load, the read as the travelor, green to ground and white bundled to the neutral cluster in the gang box. Before I did the second switch I turned the breaker on to test; the switch turned the light off and on (at this point tragically perhaps, I did not fip the other dumb 3-way to test). I pushed it all into the gang, connect it to wifi and it turns the lights off and on. Your original switches were probably wired up like this to save money on cable:  which is why the second box doesn't have a neutral. As for work-arounds, I've heard of people using the ground wire instead of a neutral (against manufacturer instructions) on the theory that it just needs to carry a few milliamps to run the electronics and therefore won't cause a shock hazard or trip a breaker, but that still seems like a bad idea. If you have a nearby neutral you can run into this box I think it would work in theory as long as they are both on the same circuit, there aren't any gfci outlets between the two boxes, and you run a fully shielded cable between the two instead of just a solitary white wire. I am not an electrician so this might violate a bunch of code and be dangerous in ways I don't see. Edit: Had another thought. You could re-wire the light to be always on, remove the switches entirely, and add some of those remote control switches. I don't know if TP-Link makes something like that though. Nevets fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 15:40
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Nevets posted:Your original switches were probably wired up like this to save money on cable: I do have a nearby neutral that's on the same circuit, that looks like the best route. Thanks. Motronic posted:Not sure why you're surprised that you are getting unexpected results when you have it set up wrong. On every 3-way smart switch I've seen all switches must be part of the system. A generic switch simply doesn't work, and in some cases (like the Honeywell Z Wave switches) leaving a regular switch wired up will actually destroy a smart switch at the other end (travelers aren't intended to be line voltage on these and many other smart switches). I wondered about this- I assumed a switch is a switch - I'm not certain the first switch is wired wrong; just a possibility and wondering if the behaviour was possible with a wrongly wired switch. Thanks.
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Jun 20, 2019 19:48
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Can anyone  me a little about waterproofing?This chunk of my door frame broke off because it was exposed to moisture I guess. I'm not sure what to do to remedy this/keep it from getting worse. 
Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 21:34
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How about providing a useful picture that gives an overview of the situation. Bonus points for including the source of water intrusion.
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Jun 20, 2019 21:47
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Start removing wood until you run out of rotten wood to remove. You can rip out sufficiently bad wood with the claw side of a claw hammer. Hopefully in the process of removing the rotten wood, you'll be able to trace where the water was intruding from, which is probably some gap in the siding somewhere, or a leak from an interior water pipe. Fix that, replace what you removed with sound wood, and close up the wall again. If you're unlucky then there won't be any obvious source of water leakage. Is the wood currently damp? If not, it's possible that you're seeing old damage that just happened to pick now to break in a visible fashion, and the source of the leak was patched years ago. You still need to rip out the rotten wood and replace it with sound wood, because rotten stuff can't bear load.
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Jun 20, 2019 21:50
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Nevvy Z posted:Can anyone https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfJJaPRmysA&t=79s Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 21:57
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And hope you still have a house left in between removing the bad stuff and putting the good stuff in. Unlike kastein.
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Jun 20, 2019 22:02
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Oh sorry. This is all outside so it is the point of intrusion. That's the outer edge of the side door. Here's a couple more angles.  The door used to be painted shut and at some point some paint got loose or stripped. It's been real rainy and who knows how long this has been going on. Edit- those are asbestos tile I hope that won't become an issue for solving this. Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 22:06
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What happens in that area when it rains? We had a similar problem with a basement door, and it was because there was a spot in our roof/gutter situation where it would overflow in heavy rain and pour a steady flow right onto the side of the doorway, soaking the wood and leaving it damp. I would suggest you look around (and up) and figure out if you are getting water falling/splashing on that area that's causing the part of the problem.
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Jun 20, 2019 22:12
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Ashcans posted:What happens in that area when it rains? We had a similar problem with a basement door, and it was because there was a spot in our roof/gutter situation where it would overflow in heavy rain and pour a steady flow right onto the side of the doorway, soaking the wood and leaving it damp. I would suggest you look around (and up) and figure out if you are getting water falling/splashing on that area that's causing the part of the problem. I'll try to check that out. It seemed like it'd get pretty splashy off that concrete sometimes. The asbestos tiles are nailed to wood ones and the backs of some of those are a bit soft in spots. I'm starting with making a splash guard out of duct tape or something.
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Jun 20, 2019 22:26
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Walk out of the door. To the outside. Take a picture of the door, frame and any overhangs. Without your feet in it.
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Jun 20, 2019 22:52
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Ok. Here's some more!   
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Jun 21, 2019 00:00
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Okay, now we know the flashing on top of the door frame sucks. What is above it? Is it an overhang? How much? Are the gutters clogged? Are there no gutters?
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Jun 21, 2019 02:51
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You can learn a lot about your house's problems (and future problems) by going outside with an umbrella during (about 5-10 minutes into) the worst rainstorm you can. Anywhere you see large amounts of water pooling, especially on/near wood, or large amount of water cascading down or flowing over a gutter and splashing up on wood are areas that need some fixin pronto. Likewise, go up into the attic during those heavy rains a few times a year with a bright flashlight to look for water/staining (plywood gets dark when it is wet) on the roof sheeting. Especially focus on penetrations (pipes, skylights, vents, chimney, etc) as well. You can possibly catch a small leak when it is a simple fix before it rots the plywood/rafters, ruins insulation, and starts to destroy your drywall inside the house.
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Jun 21, 2019 03:07
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Motronic posted:Okay, now we know the flashing on top of the door frame sucks. What is above it? Is it an overhang? How much? Are the gutters clogged? Are there no gutters? There are no gutters over this part just a little overhang, maybe 4 inches, and the attic ventilation. Too dark for a photo but I found this on google, that vent is right above the door.
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Jun 21, 2019 03:24
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Is there a specific name for these things that hold a window in its frame besides just J channel? From the other ones, it looks like they hook into a groove in the frame and sandwich the window.
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Jun 22, 2019 04:11
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 Due to new flooring and a small calculation issue, the sliding door no longer slides across the whole track. It's just a tiny bit too low / the floor is now too high after I got boards put in. I've moved all my heavy furniture over to the railings to try compress everything down. Checking out the door there's no vital mechanisms and it's the metal frame that jams up. The wheel mechanism sits comfortably inside the rail, thats not a problem. Any suggestions on what to do here? I've got about a 4-5mm gap to work with, and it seems that removing about 2mm of metal from the bottom might do the trick. The frame is hollow and open along the bottom edge. Any suggestions on how to get this done?
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Jun 22, 2019 10:12
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Synthbuttrange posted:
Is it more feasible to remove the track and take 2mm out from whatever's underneath it?
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Jun 22, 2019 10:45
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