|
Just demo and put up new sheetrock at that price.
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 19:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 09:23 |
|
|
I've got a dehumidifier with pump that I've had for a few years. When I moved, I disconnected the hose that was attached to it because it was old and gunky. For the life of me, I cannot get a new hose to fit on it. I had a clear plastic hose, but everyone tells me I should be able to fit a standard garden hose on it. I'm wondering if I had it connected wrong before and just got lucky that it didn't leak. Am I supposed to remove the plastic from the hose connection here? I tried pulling it out and it didn't give, but I didn't want to use too much force. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 20:01
|
|
|
GoGoGadgetChris posted:It's two layers directly applied to the drywall, so just removing the wallpaper from 3 bedrooms is expected to cost about $7,000, and then I need to do a mix of new drywall and drywall repair. I can't breathe.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 20:17
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:I can't breathe. Then you must be standing too close to my mold infested and water damaged crawlspace, my dude. Be careful!
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 20:29
|
|
|
Medullah posted:I've got a dehumidifier with pump that I've had for a few years. When I moved, I disconnected the hose that was attached to it because it was old and gunky. Some dehumidifiers have threads to fit a garden hose but that one doesn't look like it does. I'd probably measure the barb and get a piece of hose that will fit snugly over it (as well as maybe a little hose clamp). If you know the make and model of the dehumidifier you may be able to look up what hose(s) it supports or google to see if anyone else has had the same issue and found a good replacement. Most dehumidifiers just let the water drip out by gravity and lack a pump so while the hose needs to be secure it doesn't have to be super water tight as long as it's on there decently.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 20:46
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Some dehumidifiers have threads to fit a garden hose but that one doesn't look like it does. I'd probably measure the barb and get a piece of hose that will fit snugly over it (as well as maybe a little hose clamp). If you know the make and model of the dehumidifier you may be able to look up what hose(s) it supports or google to see if anyone else has had the same issue and found a good replacement. Yeah this is actually what I am doing now, I have one that fits snugly over the nub and have a clamp on it, but it still drips a little bit like I do now that I'm older. I found the manual for the model (Hisense DH70KP1WG) and it seems to want to take the nub out, but I'll be damned if I can get it out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 20:52
|
|
|
Medullah posted:Yeah this is actually what I am doing now, I have one that fits snugly over the nub and have a clamp on it, but it still drips a little bit like I do now that I'm older. I found the manual for the model (Hisense DH70KP1WG) and it seems to want to take the nub out, but I'll be damned if I can get it out. The manual shows on page 9 that you push the rear part in to remove the front part, so it's probably locked in without that: https://www.hisense-usa.com/sites/default/files/support-doc/50-70%20Pint%204049971-01_2.pdf Also that model may have a pump and I guess the barb part originally came with the hose. It does have instructions on using a garden hose for gravity draining on pg. 7 once you get the hose part of the connector out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
GoGoGadgetChris posted:It's two layers directly applied to the drywall, so just removing the wallpaper from 3 bedrooms is expected to cost about $7,000, and then I need to do a mix of new drywall and drywall repair. That is batshit crazy. Is it possible to find some handyman types or even day laborers to do the manual grunt work in removing the wallpaper? nevermind.......... Actually, just adding more wallpaper over it (plain, and in a wall color you like) along with some chair rails or something to break it up would be even easier. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jun 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2019 21:49
|
|
|
Oh man. I just spent 30 minutes on the phone with my new painter, and I'm completely in love. His team of 5 guys had all the wallpaper in the house removed in under 4 hours. They said the painters that tried last week did it as wrong as you could possibly do it, and it wouldn't been easier for his team to do it if the last painters had never even tried. They're going to have 6 painters in my house every day from 7 to 4 for the next five business days, and they're going to... Paint every wall of my house (2,900 SF!!!) Paint every bit of trim Paint all the doors and upgrade all the door hardware And he even said "Hey so we saw they cut up your drywall by the refrigerator so we're gonna fix that while we're there" This is the best experience I've ever had. Dude is beyond passionate about painting (he literally sent me photos of some of his celebrity paintings to show off how much he "loves paint and stresses the details") and just makes me feel like he cares about this job & my house I'm having a good day
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2019 02:38
|
|
|
You mind sharing the cost difference from your first absurd quote? (If that's okay to ask)
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2019 02:49
|
|
|
Dango Bango posted:You mind sharing the cost difference from your first absurd quote? (If that's okay to ask) $8,000 for all of that! Compared to ~$7,000 just for wallpaper removal from a different painter. I'm over the moon right now The entire project is going to be under $2.80/SF which is absurd
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2019 02:51
|
|
|
Another day, another great discovery in my house. This time it's the sill plate of the garage. Turns out it's completely hollow in this part. The "bright side" is that the rot/damage seems to be localized to this small section, so hopefully I can cut it out and stick another piece of 2x4 in there without too many complications. The stud in the picture isn't even touching it, so it doesn't seem to be supporting any weight at the moment. e: Yes I know those are rodent droppings. The property had a rodent infestation prior to my owning it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2019 05:06
|
|
|
Nothing like a little insect genocide on a lovely Friday evening!
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2019 00:03
|
|
|
Hey so those look like stake traps, but it also looks like you're spraying the ants with some other insecticide; you'll get a lot better results if you just use the stake traps without additional spraying, the idea is that the borax concentration in the traps is small enough for the ants to not die right away, so they'll bring the poison back to their nest and kill a lot more than just the handful of ants that you see
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2019 09:03
|
|
|
I'm in the market for an extension ladder for gutter cleaning. Veritical distance from the gutter to ground level is 18 feet. I assume I'll need at least a 24 foot extension ladder to clean these safely?
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2019 18:23
|
|
|
QuarkJets posted:Hey so those look like stake traps, but it also looks like you're spraying the ants with some other insecticide; you'll get a lot better results if you just use the stake traps without additional spraying, the idea is that the borax concentration in the traps is small enough for the ants to not die right away, so they'll bring the poison back to their nest and kill a lot more than just the handful of ants that you see Yep, for sure. Those stakes were out there for a good week, yet for some reason when I got home that night there was this massive bunch of ants just hanging about. Needed to spray down that area anyways, a couple of them have been making their way up to the room above the garage.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2019 18:42
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Yep, for sure. Those stakes were out there for a good week, yet for some reason when I got home that night there was this massive bunch of ants just hanging about. Needed to spray down that area anyways, a couple of them have been making their way up to the room above the garage. We found some ants gave no fucks about the borax/sugar stuff. We bought poison pellets and those worked great. Find where they are coming into the house, put a small number of them right in the path (think a dozen pellets, it's a 1/8th tsp ish/one shake - it only takes 1-2 of them making it home) then mop up their trails inside with 409 (or other cleaner) to nuke the scent. Doesn't take much but needs to be more than water. After a day the whole trail is gone, often a new one would appear from another direction, same treatment, repeat 2-3 times and it cleared them up for months. This is in Los Angeles County, the Itty bitty black ants that don't really have a bite to them. Your ants may be different.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2019 18:58
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:The manual shows on page 9 that you push the rear part in to remove the front part, so it's probably locked in without that: Thanks for the help on this, I ended up getting a silicone hose and clamp and it works perfectly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2019 18:59
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Yep, for sure. Those stakes were out there for a good week, yet for some reason when I got home that night there was this massive bunch of ants just hanging about. Needed to spray down that area anyways, a couple of them have been making their way up to the room above the garage. The Terro/Borax traps may take a while but they've always worked for me. I had a spot where sugar ants were streaming in last winter and I replaced the liquid spot probably 2-3 times over the course of two weeks (they kept eating it all), but eventually they stopped...and never came back. If you get them swarming around the bait that's probably a good thing as they'll take more of it back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2019 19:34
|
|
|
Get Delta Dust and puff it over their trail. I had some tiny black ants coming in/out of my brickwork and I puffed some dust in there and by the next morning they were gone and I haven't seen any of them since.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2019 19:37
|
|
|
Sock The Great posted:I'm in the market for an extension ladder for gutter cleaning. Veritical distance from the gutter to ground level is 18 feet. I assume I'll need at least a 24 foot extension ladder to clean these safely? Yes. Within reason, go for a taller ladder. Mine are about the same height, and if you subtract a few feet for the angle and if you want a few rungs above the gutter to hold on to (you do), you need maybe 20-30% more height than the gutter itself. For what it's worth, I got a 28 ft so that I could get on the roof. It's really nice to have 3-4 feet above the gutter to hang onto as you step on or off. 24 ft seems to be the sweet spot for price, so I paid a bit of a premium for the extra 4 feet. Also, if you're going 24+ ft, don't fall for buying a heavier duty ladder than you need. An aluminum Type-II should be sufficient. You really don't want to try to wrestle a heavy fiberglass 24+ footer at full extension by yourself.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
But do you really want to clean gutters from a ladder? A pressure washer with an extendable fiberglass pole with a 45 degree turn down, while awkward to use, beats the hell out of going up and down a ladder multiple times to get around (unless your roof pitch and surface allows you to use a ladder to just get up there once and walk around to clean them all out).
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 05:31
|
|
|
Motronic posted:But do you really want to clean gutters from a ladder? I didn't know this existed - do you have a link to one? I'd also need about 18ft from ground-to-gutter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 13:14
|
|
|
BoyBlunder posted:I didn't know this existed - do you have a link to one? I'd also need about 18ft from ground-to-gutter. I have a gas pressure washer and these three things: https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-85-...ps%2C147&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/Backyard-Acc...KD8SKK6RKEGN47Z https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-85-...KD8SKK6RKEGN47Z It's heavy and awkward (that why you want the harness) buy once you get it extended and flowing water you get used to "balancing" it against the pressure of the water.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 13:58
|
|
|
Got in the contract for Phase 1 of our renovations with the last revision being that final payment is contingent on the city signing off on the permits. Got a copy of their proof of insurance for General Liability and Workers Comp, and looked up their contractors license. They're a family business that's seemingly well run, and we got to witness firsthand when they did some major bathroom work at a friends house due to a flood. Got to see demo, studs, rough-in, and and finish work. It all looked great. Phase 1: Environmental testing for lead, probably asbestos. Pack out storage room behind garage, demo out interior walls, windows, door, and some random fence we hate. Finish off garage work I started like 9 months ago and wound up abandoning due to chronic illness. Wall off and insulate everything. Installing vinyl plank flooring, 12k BTU Hitachi mini-split, windows, a ton of low voltage stuff, new sliding doors. Demo out and replace the rotting patio cover of doom. Demo out and rebuild into a pantry our old nasty water heater closet. Paint all interior walls/doors/trim. Patch and prime stucco. ~$35k with a "to be bid" $0 garage storage system and workbench line item, plus "as incurred" city permit fees. They've already gotten the city to renew for free my long-expired permit to do the garage. Phase 2: Demo out 2nd bathroom, cut a hole in our master bedroom wall/closet, redo the closet to be smaller, and build an en-suite bathroom. After that - demo out and rebuild the current primary bathroom. $40k Phase 3: To be bid, repaint the house. After this we're probably going to have them do a "rebuild" estimate on the house to verify our insurance coverage is adequate. Insurance rebuilds are actually their bread and butter, and it's meant the bids are extremely detailed. Who needs money anyways right? 
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 01:25
|
|
|
I'm a new first time homeowner and I have some basic questions. The home is not truly new, but was one of those gut-and-rebuild renovations. I'm the first owner since the renovation. 1) I have what I think is a Leviton 3 gang plate on some lightswitches in my bathrooms. Frustratingly, the contractor who did the renovation seemed to not bother to change the default settings on a motion sensing switch for the main light in each bathroom. The lights turn on when you enter the room which is a violation of local building code. I am absolutely sure it is a violation, I literally called the head building inspector at city hall today to ask and he confirmed. Regardless of the code, I want them in manual activation mode anyway. This looks like an easy fix, the switches can be programmed, but I need to remove the wall plate to do it. I thought that'd be easy to do by just prying them off, but after applying what I thought was a fair amount of force, the plates didn't budge. As a new homeowner, I'm afraid to break them. Is there some secret to prying them off? Should I just apply more force and if it breaks buy a new one? The cover is a single piece of plastic, it can't be too expensive. I'm guessing under $15. Should I just call the contractor to see if I can get him to do it? I own the house at this point, I guess he can tell me to get bent. 2) I need to get the home wired with ethernet. No, the contractor didn't install it during the renovation. (He said it's not popular. Grr.) Do I call an electrician to do this? Is this something a less expensive handy person can do? Should I do it myself? I'm not afraid of DIY projects, but snaking cable through the walls without damaging anything seems tricky for a complete newbie. I wouldn't even know what tools to buy. Chimp_On_Stilts fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jun 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 05:53
|
|
|
I doubt the contractor will come fix it for free. Ethernet can be easy to run or hard. Describe your house. Attic access? Basement? An electrician can run Ethernet but it’ll cost you. Many home automation or Audio Visual companies will do it, or you can look for a low voltage guy who will probably do it for less.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 06:20
|
|
|
Chimp_On_Stilts posted:1) I have what I think is a Leviton 3 gang plate on some lightswitches in my bathrooms. Frustratingly, the contractor who did the renovation seemed to not bother to change the default settings on a motion sensing switch for the main light in each bathroom. Take a picture. You might need to unscrew the faceplate first. Try holding the button down for like 30+ seconds while the light is already on. If the lights then click off/on/off then you just toggled it. Otherwise there is a trick to popping off the cover.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 06:28
|
|
|
House is 1,500 sq feet, all one floor. Has a crawl space below and above, though I have been in neither 3 bedroom. Drywall walls. There's no long distances or anything crazy for ethernet. Here's a picture of the plate: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YkYn2PCGYemagN1K7
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 06:43
|
|
|
Chimp_On_Stilts posted:Here's a picture of the plate: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YkYn2PCGYemagN1K7 I see what looks like a circular scratch above the center switch, slightly offset to the left. Might that be some kind of cover over a screw hole? This looks to be the manual for that switch.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:09
|
|
|
Chimp_On_Stilts posted:As a new homeowner, I'm afraid to break them. Is there some secret to prying them off? Should I just apply more force and if it breaks buy a new one? The cover is a single piece of plastic, it can't be too expensive. I'm guessing under $15. They are called screwless wall plates, you can find videos online for how to remove various kinds. For example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WV0T3CFFyzA If you break it you can replace it with a normal one for like $3 from a hardware store. But on the new one you will be able to see the screws so your social status will be greatly reduced.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:16
|
|
|
Honestly I hate the look of screw less plates. I do align all my plates screw slots vertically though, because I am a man of class and sophistication.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:26
|
|
|
I fixed the light switches! It turns out the secret to getting the plates off was to put a large amount of force on them. I was afraid they would break but they did not. I also found the replacements on Amazon and they're only $11, so I had some confidence that things would be okay as I applied more power. Thanks for the tips and the pointer to the manual. I know this is basic poo poo but it's the first thing in my own house that I fixed myself, so it feels good. A fun new thing happened: This morning I turned off the power to the house at the breaker so I could work on the light switches. While the power was out the carbon monoxide alarm went off. I opened all the windows and ran the fan from the HVAC and the alarm stopped. I do not know what caused the alarm. It may be a coincidence that it went off while the power was out. I am trying to think what might have produced CO in this house. I have a natural gas stove, furnace, and water heater. I have not run the stove or the furnace today. The water heater is not very close to the alarm that went off. Any suggestions for what to check? Meanwhile, I am leaving the windows open and the alarm is not going off currently. Chimp_On_Stilts fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jun 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 18:16
|
|
|
Is your CO detector tied into the house electrical system or just battery operated? Was the power back on when the alarm stopped? Just wondering if it IS tied into the electrical, and the backup battery is dying/dead, maybe it is failing safe by setting off the alarm. I would err strongly on the side of caution here and assume there is a leak. Reset your detectors and wait to see if they go off again. If they don't, call someone in to inspect gas appliances. If they do go off again, get out of the house and call 911.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 18:31
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:Is your CO detector tied into the house electrical system or just battery operated? Was the power back on when the alarm stopped? Just wondering if it IS tied into the electrical, and the backup battery is dying/dead, maybe it is failing safe by setting off the alarm. If all humans and pets are out of the house, why call 911? Is there a fire danger or something similar? I'm not doubting you and I am treating this as top priority. I just want to understand.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 18:41
|
|
|
Chimp_On_Stilts posted:Any suggestions for what to check? Meanwhile, I am leaving the windows open and the alarm is not going off currently. Residential carbon monoxide alarms generally require a lot of carbon monoxide to go off, well past the point of levels that could harm someone if they were exposed to it for a long time. For example my combo smoke/CO alarm only alerts me if it detects >100ppm, whereas a more expensive detector can detect as low as 5ppm. In your situation I would think about calling a professional or buying a better "low level" detector and moving it around the house (let it sit for a few hours in different spots). They are usually around $150 but this one detects down to 10ppm and is only $80: https://www.trutechtools.com/Defend...AiABEgJSePD_BwE Also keep in mind that both smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors should be replaced every 7-10 years so you should check the age on the ones in your new house and replace if necessary. Droo fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jun 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 18:48
|
|
|
Chimp_On_Stilts posted:If all humans and pets are out of the house, why call 911? Is there a fire danger or something similar? Fire department can come immediately and check where the leak is. And yeah I would second having an additional detector that gives you a digital readout of what amount of CO it is actually detecting. Edit: holy poo poo the top review for this  https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Dual-Power-Monoxide-CO615/dp/B000Q5VMKGquote:First Alert Dual-Power Carbon Monoxide Detector Alarm | Plug-In with Battery Backup and Digital Display, CO615 Sirotan fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jun 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 19:05
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:Is your CO detector tied into the house electrical system or just battery operated? Was the power back on when the alarm stopped? Just wondering if it IS tied into the electrical, and the backup battery is dying/dead, maybe it is failing safe by setting off the alarm. You can test this quickly by just popping it off the ceiling and unhooking the hardwire. If it goes off, there is your culprit. If this is the case you either need a new one or a new battery (possibly both.) If it doesn't go off, press the test button until it does. If it doesn't go off, same drill. Read the manual on yours (or the sticker on the back.) It might have a pre-alarm warning light blink code, see if that's going off.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 19:40
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:Fire department can come immediately and check where the leak is. A reminder that suffocation hazards and carbon monoxide poisoning are extremely scary because our lungs evolved to alert the brain to too much carbon dioxide but not to the absence of oxygen, which is what actually matters
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 20:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 09:23 |
|
|
There was that guy who had CO buildup in his apartment, leading to him writing weird postit notes to himself. Don't be that guy!
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 20:20
|
|
