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rage-saq posted:#3: Get some inline temperature sensors and a aquaero quadro. You want the temperature sensors so you can tie your fan curve to the temperature of the coolant, as thats what you are actually cooling with ambient air and what will be cooling the rest of your components. The Aquero Quadro is a mini fan controller that has some excellent control options and configuration software and is CHEAP. Its like $35 on Amazon and their lightweight software is fantastic. 4 fan headers, 3 temp headers, flow sensor and more. My entire rig runs off it and its great. Oh, that controller looks badass indeed. Much better than the restrictive poo poo my Asus board lets me do (no, you're NOT allowed to turn your fans off, how dare you!). Definitely getting this at some point.
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Apr 17, 2019 18:04
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TigerXtrm posted:Oh, that controller looks badass indeed. Much better than the restrictive poo poo my Asus board lets me do (no, you're NOT allowed to turn your fans off, how dare you!). Definitely getting this at some point. I was REALLY hoping I could do the more advanced feature of the full Aquaero where you plug in your ambient + loop temp to create a virtual temp sensor that is delta-T and then set your fan curve according to delta-T, but it doesn’t have that. I really like the Quadro, it’s such an easy to use inexpensive solution, but I still kinda want to go full sperg and upgrade to an aquaero 6 LT just for delta-t fan curves for everything. You can tie into hwinfo64 for sensors to set fan curves to as well, so if you had ram fans you could even make a delta-t fan curve for your ram... God damnit I think I just talked myself into an Aquaero 6 LT.
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Apr 17, 2019 19:00
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Well alright. The extreme caution surrounding the case is duly noted. Time will tell whether it eventually compels me to rehouse my system. While all that mulls over, please tell me about restrictiveness! I can find lots of enthusiasts excitedly comparing how restrictive certain components are compared to certain other components but I don't really know what to make of or do with any of the numbers that result. It makes sense broadly that more restrictiveness would mean a beefier pump needed, but I don't have the context to translate this into buying considerations. For example, I have learned that the Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 is possibly the most restrictive 280mm radiator on the market. It's twice as restrictive as most rads of that size! Wow! That sounds really bad! But I've also learned that radiators are typically less restrictive than other components in a loop, so does this actually matter? What do I do with this information?
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Apr 18, 2019 00:33
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Fedule posted:Well alright. The extreme caution surrounding the case is duly noted. Time will tell whether it eventually compels me to rehouse my system. If you get a good pump like a d5 it doesn’t matter. My ekwb d5 revo w/140 top handles a 420GTS, a 420GTS xflow (less restrictive)c a 280GTS xflow, my asus Maximus formula VRMs, my ekwb supremacy evo block, and my ekwb 2080ti block with still a lot of flow rate.
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Apr 18, 2019 00:38
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Anyone have experience with the EVGA 280 CLC? I was sort of holding out on a sale for the Corsair Platinums to try a non-Asetek pump since I've had a couple Krakens die and gave up on things but at 115CDN I feel like it might be worth rolling the dice.
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Apr 21, 2019 16:30
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Ugh, I need a new case. I removed the front panel of my H700 and I see the water temperature already dropping during normal use. And that's before removing the accumulated dust from the filter net. I guess form and function don't work together. I got the thing because of the plain solid front and top panels. The holes in the side aren't enough it seems. --edit: Water temps went from 31.4°C to 29.2°C by removing the front and undusting the filter, at 24°C ambient and despite fans ramping down. It's not settled yet, I should try putting the front back on. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Apr 21, 2019 |
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Apr 21, 2019 22:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:Ugh, I need a new case. I removed the front panel of my H700 and I see the water temperature already dropping during normal use. And that's before removing the accumulated dust from the filter net.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:22
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Front intake. Appears there was too much dust obstructing it.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:23
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Yeah I've been told here that watercooling is much worse wrt dust build-up than air, and fastidious cleaning is part of the deal, probably especially so if your radiator is at the front (and only?) intake.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:25
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Yea, seemed a bit much. I guess I'll be running naked, now that the ambient goes up.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:32
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Less Fat Luke posted:Anyone have experience with the EVGA 280 CLC? I was sort of holding out on a sale for the Corsair Platinums to try a non-Asetek pump since I've had a couple Krakens die and gave up on things but at 115CDN I feel like it might be worth rolling the dice. Have you watched Gamers Nexus videos on YT or read their reviews? All of the Asetek pumps basically perform the same with the big differences being the version (Corsair, IIRC, has the most recent version of Asetek's pump design), reservoir size, fans, and RGB stuffs. The EVGA 280 one gets solid marks from them, but it's a previous generation design. They (GN) break down the biggest change in the 5 to 6 version (IIRC) is a shift from a plastic to a metal impeller.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:33
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Yeah, I saw that GN specifically called out the Corsair Platinums as the first non-Asetek pump in a while which is why I was thinking of that one.
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Apr 21, 2019 23:18
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Build i did for a customer turned out well
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Apr 26, 2019 16:55
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I thought of another question. I think I know the answer to this but I guess it can't hurt to check. Why does pressure due to the thermal expansion of water not seem to be a huge problem and a source of horror stories and the subject of noob warnings, like bad fittings or dry pump runs are? Is it simply that the tiny residual amount of air left in most loops even after a good bleed is sufficient space for all that hot water to expand into? (I feel like even 20mls or so would be sufficient.) Do I rightly surmise that somehow taking all of the air out of a loop and having it heat up by 20 or 30 degrees would be an unbelievably bad idea, but that that's nearly impossible to actually do and therefore is why I don't hear stories about people's loops exploding?
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May 4, 2019 17:21
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Air is pretty compressible, while as water doesn't expand that much per °C. Reservoirs are rarely completely filled, so there's some room. There's also a bit of flex in the pipes. Google tells me that water volume expands by Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 17:43 on May 4, 2019 |
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May 4, 2019 17:41
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Fedule posted:I thought of another question. I think I know the answer to this but I guess it can't hurt to check. Usually there is enough air in the reservoir to allow for the expansion, but also unless you run a loop with no fans at 500 watts of load the coolant isn't going to warm much past 15C over ambient. Radiators get tremendously effective at higher coolant deltas to a point where short of wrapping them in a blanket you just can't warm them up any further. Also if the loop is using flexible tubing with compression fittings, the designs for those were originally adapted from pneumatic systems which were meant to contain 100+ PSI compressed air, and flexible tubing can expand/contract enough to compensate for changes in volume.
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May 4, 2019 18:03
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Don Lapre posted:Build i did for a customer turned out well Very nice.
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May 23, 2019 00:09
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I wonder if builds are going to start incorporating pipe manifolds like residential plumbing does but on a smaller scale.
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May 23, 2019 02:57
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Coredump posted:I wonder if builds are going to start incorporating pipe manifolds like residential plumbing does but on a smaller scale. Not sure I'd see the advantage of that in a closed loop covering such a small space.
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May 23, 2019 23:47
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Deuce posted:Not sure I'd see the advantage of that in a closed loop covering such a small space. Aesthetics and bragging rights I would assume. Might give people a different way to pipe things up as well. I cold side manifold where the cpu and gpu get their own feed and then a hot side that goes back into the radiator. Edit: i wonder if you could design drains per component instead of the whole loop. Coredump fucked around with this message at 00:45 on May 24, 2019 |
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May 24, 2019 00:41
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Coredump posted:I wonder if builds are going to start incorporating pipe manifolds like residential plumbing does but on a smaller scale. Some builds use acrylic "distribution blocks" which are kinda like that. But I think they're not strictly manifolds because I think they're usually still serial and don't fork off.
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May 24, 2019 00:44
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Also manifolds generally increase the number of connections and amount of tubing in a loop, plus there is a risk of the more restrictive block getting significantly reduced coolant flow compared to a serial loop.
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May 24, 2019 00:51
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Are rotary fittings trustworthy? I have a bunch of straight ones from EKWB, and they flex a bit more than I'd like at the split section. I've been looking for angled fittings to de-uglify and reroute my flexible tubing, but they're also usually rotating.
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Jun 18, 2019 02:25
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Combat Pretzel posted:Are rotary fittings trustworthy? I have a bunch of straight ones from EKWB, and they flex a bit more than I'd like at the split section. I've been looking for angled fittings to de-uglify and reroute my flexible tubing, but they're also usually rotating. The thing with non-rotary angled fittings is you can't control which direction they point. Rotary fittings are generally reliable enough, but they do add more points of failure. Use as few as possible and don't cheap out on them, but otherwise don't worry too much about it.
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Jun 18, 2019 04:15
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What do you guys recommend for fan/pump control? Looking to get fan and pump speeds determined by coolant temperature, but my motherboard doesn't have a temperature sensor input.
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Jun 19, 2019 17:09
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Deuce posted:What do you guys recommend for fan/pump control? Looking to get fan and pump speeds determined by coolant temperature, but my motherboard doesn't have a temperature sensor input. Aquaero. Either a quadro or 6 LT. So good.
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Jun 19, 2019 17:11
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rage-saq posted:Aquaero. Either a quadro or 6 LT. Yep. You can use it forever. It does not rely on your computer at all (other than power) to keep all your poo poo going. You can buy any motherboard you want and not worry about how lovely its built in fan controller is.
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Jun 20, 2019 22:29
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Anyone use external rads? I've got a fairly small office that gets heat-saturated fast while the rest of the house is cool and for super lovely reasons (HOA) I can't put in a windowshaker. My thought was that my setup is right behind my livingroom wall, so I could put a rad into a permanent enclosure hidden behind my entertainment center. Insane? Would a pair of zero-spill connects make sense for something like that? I've already got one conduit there for HDMI+USB so I can toss party games on my 4k TV without having a seperate system. My current (bad) solution is opening the door, running a box fan and putting up a gate to keep curious tiny fingers attached to tiny hands. Alternatives include putting in a vent booster to keep air circulating - and those are basically custom jobs already. Pricey and noisy. Or a mini-split, which start in the $750 range, sound like the cheap poo poo they are, and do basically the same thing I was thinking of WRT plumbing only larger, louder, more expensive and requiring a licensed HVAC guy to install and invite insects directly into my office. E: I should mention that I've consolidated all my computers into two - one NAS homed in the wiring closet and one threadripper with GPUs for every virtualized box I used to run separately. It also means I'd have to watercool AMD GPUs or quadros because nVidia has been super lovely lately about detecting virtualization and blocking it. E2: not thinking about water for my 580s anymore, there's no used waterblocks on the market and new ones for a 580 go for more than the 580s themselves. Figured people would be dumping their old gear but there's $150/gpu cost no matter how old the GPU. Harik fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Jun 21, 2019 |
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Jun 21, 2019 04:57
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Why not just put the computer in the other room?
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Jun 21, 2019 10:50
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I'm thinking of making the jump to Ryzen this time. Does anyone have any suggestions for good AM4 CPU blocks? I've been predominantly using EKWB currently, but their shipping to Canada costs almost as much as the waterblocks themselves.. EDIT: Harik posted:Anyone use external rads? I've got a fairly small office that gets heat-saturated fast while the rest of the house is cool and for super lovely reasons (HOA) I can't put in a windowshaker. So.. I do, but it's more of an external AIO box. I was one of the suckers who bought one of those Koolance ERM's. This one: https://koolance.com/erm-2k3ucu-liquid-cooling-system-copper Right now I've got the unit out in my garage on a shelf up off the ground. I opened up my office wall and added quick release connectors for my office loop, and I'm running both of the computers on water cooled by the ERM as it's apparently supposed to dissipate 2000 watts of heat. I'm using https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0033CE8T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to connect the behind the wall stuff to my heat dump, and regular watercooling tubing and connectors for the visible stuff. That amazon tubing uses the same rubber that EK uses for their Z class tubing or whatever. Then, to make up for extra head pressure required for such a long loop, I had to upgrade the pump to a D600 which can put out (apparently) 20psi while still sluggishly moving water around the loop. Advice: Don't do what I did. Build a nice in-case watercooling solution (if at all) and buy the minisplit. That way your whole room is nice and cool. Aside from "wow look how cool my CPU and GPU are" in the winter time since my garage hovers around 5C and a completely silent office with no fan noise, there's literally no benefit to what I'm doing as it was stupid expensive and still requires a lot of work.. like when I have to flush my system. Also, this loving ERM is loud as poo poo and that's why it's in the garage. This was a silly "can I do this" project when I should have been asking "should I do this". Learn from my expensive, time consuming mistake :P originalnickname fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Jun 21, 2019 |
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Jun 21, 2019 14:44
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I'm going to second the mini-split, I have a high end fujitsu unit that I had installed several years ago and it is worth every penny. It is virtually silent, does heating and cooling, is more efficient than central air even and doesn't clog up a window.
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Jun 21, 2019 15:26
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Why not just put the computer in the other room? Because while I can hide a small box with a few fans and rads behind the entertainment center, I can't put an entire fullsize case there and my wife would murder me for trying. originalnickname posted:I'm thinking of making the jump to Ryzen this time. Does anyone have any suggestions for good AM4 CPU blocks? I've been predominantly using EKWB currently, but their shipping to Canada costs almost as much as the waterblocks themselves.. That seems like crazy overkill, how long is the total loop that you need a separate boost pump? Running two systems on one combined loop is also asking for trouble. In comparison, I'd be adding about 24-36 inches to the loop length since it's against the wall and I'd be mounting the rads on the opposite side of the wall, and running the fans off the case 12v because it's only a foot away so no voltage drop. People packing 4 rads in a massive case would have longer total loops than I'm thinking of doing. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you did and it's closer to what I was thinking of. Definitely don't want to split thermal domains, going under ambient means condensation inside my case, yikes. Indiana_Krom posted:I'm going to second the mini-split, I have a high end fujitsu unit that I had installed several years ago and it is worth every penny. It is virtually silent, does heating and cooling, is more efficient than central air even and doesn't clog up a window. E: Grindcore, I could do it if I built her a nicer entertainment center that just happened to hide my computer. That might cost more than a mini-split though!
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Jun 21, 2019 15:33
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Harik posted:
Total loop is ~40 feet or so + the pressure drop required from the waterblocks. I didn't use a boost pump, I basically retrofitted a bigger pump into the ERM chassis because I didn't want to have to run seperate 24V wires and this pump vibrates quite a bit at high output and wanted all the noise in one spot. Regarding the condensation, I live in a *very* dry area and my house can't seem to stay above 15% humidity over the winter time despite a ton of effort on my part. That being said, I definitely check my cases very very very often for any condensation during the colder months. Keep in mind I did mention that I know my "solution" is both dumb and completely overkill, but you did ask if anyone's run a remote rad and I am doing so right now. This thread doesn't move too quickly so I figured I'd chime in with lessons learned. Why do you think that running 2 systems on a loop is asking for trouble? Datacenters that are watercooled do this all the time. Honestly man, just because you cool your GPU and your CPU and dump the heat into a seperate radiator outside, it won't mitigate the other heat coming from the motherboard, the power supply, the monitors, the speakers, you, and whatever else you've got going on in that office. The minisplit is the answer you're looking for I promise.
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Jun 21, 2019 16:19
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Harik posted:Fair enough. How much did it cost you overall? As for long tubing runs, the popular D5 pump used in most custom loops is insanely powerful, you don't need anything else. There is a reason I never crank mine past 35% PWM throttle beyond just the sound (its silent under ~45%), at 100% throttle it would circulate the entire volume of my custom loop in less than 3 seconds. I know the water cooling community settled on D5s because they are relatively quiet, can run directly off 12v and are simple and reliable, but they are also pump like a fire hose and are ridiculously overpowered for the job. I once used a much weaker aquarium pump with smaller more restrictive tubing to run a loop through the floor into a shelf hanging off the basement ceiling where I kept a 360mm radiator with 3x 100 CFM delta server fans blowing through it. The performance was suitably spectacular at not even 10% of the flow rate of a D5 at full speed.
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Jun 21, 2019 16:21
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originalnickname posted:Total loop is ~40 feet or so + the pressure drop required from the waterblocks. I didn't use a boost pump, I basically retrofitted a bigger pump into the ERM chassis because I didn't want to have to run seperate 24V wires and this pump vibrates quite a bit at high output and wanted all the noise in one spot. No that's cool, I just meant yours reminded me of a slightly downsized version of linus whole-house watercooling loop - especially the multiple computers bit. Multi-system is a pain because either you're driving them in series so one starts with the thermal load of the previous one, or in parallel and trying to balance how much cooling each gets. Not impossible, and as you pointed out datacenters are designed that way, but not a simple build either. Sounds like our overall environments are pretty different too - you're never going to have to worry about condensation and I live in a barely habitable swamp. All that said, you're still right with the bolded bit. Energy is energy, it doesn't care what work it does and some will be remaining in the office even if I'm dumping next door.
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Jun 22, 2019 02:46
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Question for anyone with a watercooled 2080 currently. So my current setup: Gigabyte Aorus master z390 mobo Corsair vengenace 3200mhz 2x16gb i9 9900k - overclocked to 4.8ghz/1.35v EVGA 2080 hybrid (not Ti; water cooled AIO pre-installed on the card with air cooling for other components I think?) - overclocked to 1965mhz and 7kmhz on the memory via afterburner/oc scanner Lian li dynamic 011 case So I want to get away from the AIO, at least on my CPU, and build a loop. I am deciding whether or not I want to incorporate the 2080 into the loop - the AIO that came with the card actually does a hell of a job cooling it. Max temp in benchmarks (heaven, timespy) and gaming have not exceeded 63C in a room that can be as much as 25-26C ambient in the afternoon. I have never done a custom loop, so I'm considering just doing the CPU to get my feet wet and maybe adding in the GPU later on, but will I get much of a performance boost in temps with the GPU on the loop? Should I just leave the card as-is, since I'm not really seeing any thermal issues with the AIO? The GPU idles at about 36C and gets up to about 55C while gaming on a 1440p ultrawide; the CPU idles at about 45C, but at 60C under light load and steady at about 70C while gaming. Aida64 pushed it to 78C after a half hour. skylined! fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jun 23, 2019 |
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Jun 23, 2019 16:15
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Not exactly the same, but I took an AIO installed GTX 1080 (MSI Sea Hawk X) and switched it to an ekwb full cover block when I built my custom loop. The GPU temps on the AIO settled around 60C, on the FC block they settle around 50C. I would expect roughly the same (-10C) change on a 2080 going from AIO to a custom full cover. Although some of that might be simply from switching thermal paste from the stock white paste on the AIO to thermal grizzly kryonaut on the full cover. At idle the GPU quickly settles to ~1-2C delta above the coolant. The only change I would expect would be you would probably get one extra boost bin out of it with the same overclock settings applied.
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Jun 23, 2019 16:45
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Indiana_Krom posted:Not exactly the same, but I took an AIO installed GTX 1080 (MSI Sea Hawk X) and switched it to an ekwb full cover block when I built my custom loop. The GPU temps on the AIO settled around 60C, on the FC block they settle around 50C. I would expect roughly the same (-10C) change on a 2080 going from AIO to a custom full cover. Although some of that might be simply from switching thermal paste from the stock white paste on the AIO to thermal grizzly kryonaut on the full cover. Hm, thanks. I have some Kryonaut arriving tomorrow; planning on swapping that in for the stock paste. I guess results from that that will help determine my course of action! skylined! fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jun 23, 2019 |
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Jun 23, 2019 17:00
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The hot summer temperatures are coming. Switching my computer to the power saver profile dropped the coolant temperature by 1°C. I guess that's how I'm gonna roll this summer.
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Jun 23, 2019 17:23
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skylined! posted:Question for anyone with a watercooled 2080 currently. Have you considered the EK MLC Phoenix system? I've found it works great and is significantly less loving around than a custom loop.
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Jun 23, 2019 18:27
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