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doogle posted:https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1521231-f-body-cts-v-calipers-14-rotors-17-rims.html Wow that's tight. Looks like an invitation for a rock to get lodged in there and do some machining.
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Jun 24, 2019 12:33
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Raluek posted:LM7, T56 Unless you've already got the Tremec, might want to look at the Fabbot AR5 kit. Lets you use a gearbox you can find at any junkyard for about $200.
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Jun 24, 2019 14:46
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A part has arrived!
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Jun 24, 2019 19:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unless you've already got the Tremec, might want to look at the Fabbot AR5 kit. Lets you use a gearbox you can find at any junkyard for about $200. Oh, that's handy. I'm not who it was aimed at, but for future projects, thanks!
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Jun 24, 2019 20:50
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Yeah I'm seriously looking at one for my C10. A regular T56 is a rough fit in the C10, and a Magnum or other modded one is megabucks. Despite GM claiming the AR5 is only good for 260lbft, Fabbot put 700hp+ through one before blowing it up by flat shifting during a burnout.
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Jun 25, 2019 02:25
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Vacuumed out the Niva getting it ready for registration inspection. Discovered where all the clutch fluid has been going when I went to vacuum the drivers side floorpan. I have now ordered a clutch MC. Second one I've bought for it so far. wtf 
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Jun 25, 2019 04:13
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I got the inner and outer boots replaced on both of the 4Runner's front drive shafts. Most procedures for 1st / 2nd gen 4Runners I've seen on the internet call for undoing the stabilizer bar links, upper ball joint, and often the tie rod ends as well to get enough freedom to get the drive shafts out. From what I found, it definitely seemed that you need to take off the stabilizer bar links as there just wasn't enough width between the link and the shock to pull the end of the drive shaft out of the knuckle. However, removing / undoing all of the other stuff seemed unnecessary. I was able to get enough clearance to remove and install the drive shafts on both sides by lifting the knuckle with a jack back into a more ride height like position and turning the steering in the opposite direction from the side I was replacing (so when replacing the right side I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left). That gave me plenty to clear the lower control arm to get the outside joint into the knuckle and clear the inner bolts the inner CV joint of the drive shaft connects to. While I was there, I figured it was a great time to get the idler arm off. Thankfully, no drama. It was just a bit loose: https://i.imgur.com/2gLcXPK.gifv Ooooh, shiny  I also replaced the stabilizer bar links:  Hubs reinstalled  I also decided to replace the Pitman arm as that seems to be worn (also, I think the previous, previous owner put it back on at funky angle). I was able to pop it off the relay arm just fine, but when it came time to use my Pitman arm puller for its intended purpose, it did not go quite so smoothly.  So until I can rent or buy a new puller, the Pitman arm is just chilling.  I'll leave you with a shot of my nut sack. These will replace all of the unmercifully over torqued lug nuts that were on it: 
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Jun 25, 2019 14:14
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nadmonk posted:It was just a bit loose: 
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Jun 25, 2019 14:18
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nadmonk posted:These will replace all of the unmercifully over torqued lug nuts that were on it: Are you replacing the studs as well? Those are what get damaged (stretched) when over tightened, your mangy old nuts are probably fine (unless rounded, etc). E:typo Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Jun 25, 2019 |
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Jun 25, 2019 14:36
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Suburban Dad posted:Are you replacing the studs as well? Those are what get damaged (stretched) when over tightened, your mangy old nuts are probably file (unless rounded, etc). I've inspected the studs and they all are fine and am not seeing any evidence of stretching so I'm not replacing them. Really I'm just replacing the nuts as a precaution and I got a really good deal on new ones.
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Jun 25, 2019 14:54
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I lowered the car on Eibach pro springs (1.25ish" drop). I ended up pinching a mag ride strut wire in between the car and the strut top hat, severing it when I reinstalled the strut assembly. Fixed it though. Before  After  gently caress.  Soldiered  Heat shrink  Lots of heat shrink  fixed (for now) The "Service Suspension System" warning is gone and the car rides great on the springs. There are 3 (4 if you count the "track" one that feels exactly the same as "performance") settings on the mag ride, and basically it feels 1 setting firmer as it sits now. I have to take it to an alignment shop and after they align it, have them recalibrate the ride trim for the ride height sensors and the firmness *should* be back to how it was. Bonus: I was trying to do my rear brakes and found out that EBC thinks that all Chevy SS's came with the '14 single piston rear brakes. The '15-'17 has rear 4 piston calipers. I should have looked at the parts before I took things apart. 
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Jun 25, 2019 16:58
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General_Failure posted:Vacuumed out the Niva getting it ready for registration inspection. Discovered where all the clutch fluid has been going when I went to vacuum the drivers side floorpan. That’s now the second place I look when a clutch loses fluid (first is at the slave cylinder), since that was the first thing I fixed in my wife’s ‘79 Celica when we first started dating. Her carpet was soaked in clutch fluid because no one in her family knew poo poo about cars. Had to take the carpet out and wash it thoroughly at the car wash to get the fluid out and keep it from melting shoes. Powershift posted:
What he said.
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Jun 25, 2019 17:08
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Hod to run to work for some paperwork, and when I went to leave, the Service ABS and Stability Control errors popped up on the cluster. I turned it off and back on and it went away. Drove it home and decided I'd take a closer look where I found the mouse nest last week, because I've also gotten a P0440 Evap code recently. I put a new gas cap on hoping that was the issue. Pulled off the fuel rail cover and pulled the harness loose and found that the tape had been damaged and I had 2 wires rubbed through. I also had the Evap line from the purge valve to the canister line that was damaged. No auto parts store had one (and Rock Auto is out of stock), so I put some electrical tape on it for now. Pulled the wires out and taped them. When I get an evap line in, I'll cut the wires, solder them, and then cover them in heat shrink.  
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Jun 25, 2019 23:08
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Darchangel posted:That’s now the second place I look when a clutch loses fluid (first is at the slave cylinder) Put the Lada carb back on last week after checking it and finding that the float settings were off to all hell for some reason. Also discovered the detent clip thing for the ball throttle linkage was missing when I swapped back in so I gave it one of those arc segment cable linkages instead that I had kicking around.
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Jun 26, 2019 05:08
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Friends it is time Time for a new project. Beware of plentiful pictures coming up Due to me changing from one horrible industry to another one and changing to a job that requires a significant commute to the middle of nowhere, I decided to buy a diesel. Was looking at a bunch of E46 320Ds but they are very sought after nowadays due to lack of particle filter and lack of lovely unreliable engine. Since we are technically a Nissan garage I was also looking at Nissan diesels but I find SUVs disgraceful and the primera P12 diesels look horrible. However, 130 km away a used car dealership listet a 2004 nissan almera N16 with the big 2.2 136 HP common rail diesel and a 6 speed. The car only had 78.000 km and the dealer was asking 1700 Euro for it.        The car was not registered, had no inspection and was listed for export/commercial customers only (which means the dealer explicitly sells without warranty) After a successful test drive and a good look around the vehicle I decided to buy the car and picked it up with our flatbed truck which I forgot to take pictures of. Here's the car in our shop.  We noticed already before purchase that the front bumper was cracked from below so we already expected some minor front damage. The mask is revealed.  Nothing too bad, the mask carrier is slightly twisted and the intercooler has a little dent but nothing that warrants replacement.  The right fender bolting point has been badly fixed. Mucho corrosión is the result.  And so, the corrosion is no more. I mainly use air grinders with a variety of abrasive wheels and wire brush wheels which quickly gets rid of everything. The holes were filled with tin/lead based solder after the surrounding was pre tinned. Everything was primed with a zinc base coating and then standard paint build-up with filler and base coat.  This will out live the car now. Also found this flower growing under the fender. (it was plastic, must have been left there at the shoddy repair job)  The rest of the front mask was de rusted, zinc primed and finished with a synthetic wax.    Little bit of overspray on that cable shield, I am disgraced.  With the intercooler removed, the front carrier also got de rusted and zinc primed but also got a thick layer of synthetic and over sprayable underbelly protection to cover against rock chips and the like. It was later topped with synthetic protection wax too.  Everything's turning out nicely.  The injector rail support broke, I welded it and it got a zinc primer/base coat/clear coat treatment.  Now it was time to fix the front bumper. I have a new rear bumper still in the basement of the shop that I'll use to replace the hole of the trailer clutch once removed but no front one, so we shall fix.    I like these spring loaded staples a lot  The front side is filled with plastic usable resin.  The rear is reinforced with a UV hardening GFRP pad and cured, then a Sandable layer of GF resin is applied.  The sanding commences  Filler and priming done  A good result, I'm happy with it.  I bought 16' wheels second hand, they were in rough shape but had no curb rash. One had marks from a tire iron though.  All cleaned.  With the old rubbers removed I fillered the marks of the tire iron and repainted the wheels.  When customers buy vehicles with all seasons, we replace the OEM tires. These are 4 brand new bridgestone from 2019 in just the right size. I like. I take. It would be junk aniways.  All these will be replaced... I'll post further updates as I moved from the front of the car to the back. One of the rear lights is cracked but I already have a spare one that my polish friend who picks up the damaged body parts got me. Suprisingly good vehicle so far. I took a peek below the side skirts and there was only dirt but no corrosion. The right rear fender has some small bubbles but those will be gone soon as the ever angry wire wheel removes the last bits of rust. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jun 26, 2019 |
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Jun 26, 2019 15:40
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Today I learned that if I go to Dodge.com and click chat, a nice person will take my VIN and tell me what stage of production my car is in. I also learned that it hasn't started yet but it HAS been assigned a VIN. That's what I did about my ride today. I hope this counts, thanks for coming to my presentation
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Jun 27, 2019 17:28
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Even with the new heavy duty pitman puller, the original arm has decided that it doesn't actually want to be replaced. The arm itself was fine and the joint where it connects to the relay rod is actually fine too. I was going to replace it because I was already under there and had a new arm. If it's wonky in the future, I'll just have to replace the steering gear box. With the front done, I swapped out all the lug nuts. It also meant it was finally time to do what actually started me on this bit of work: front and rear output shaft seals on the transfer case. The transfer case had the drain plug on the very bottom, rather than on the side at the lower edge, like all of the other transfer cases I've ever had. It was nice having the fluid drain in a nice predictable direction and not shoot out and hit me in the side of the head. The fluid that drained:  Getting the prop shafts off was a pain in the rear end. There wasn't enough clearance for any of my ratchets/sockets so I had to get by using combination wrenches. The front was a lot more of a pain than the rear. Dropping the cross brace probably would have made it easier. I didn't get pictures of most of it, given that I was handling oil and grease. New output shaft seals installed. The rear seal had been replaced before and was probably fine. The front seal looked like it was original. Original front seal:  Original rear seal:  New front seal installed:  There was silicone gasket maker in between the washers of the flange nut and the flange, so I put Permatex on both. Lubed all the various prop shafts' grease fittings. Recommended amount from the owner's manual: "Until it comes out." Repeat every 15,000 miles.
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Jun 28, 2019 13:32
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That is some funky looking transfer case fluid.
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Jun 28, 2019 13:49
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C-Bangin' it
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Looks like it had water in it. Someone didn't change it after crossing flooded roads/etc - they'll suck in water through the breather (at least, differentials will... I assume transfer cases will find a way to do so too).
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Jun 28, 2019 14:30
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STR posted:Looks like it had water in it. Someone didn't change it after crossing flooded roads/etc - they'll suck in water through the breather (at least, differentials will... I assume transfer cases will find a way to do so too). That's what I'm thinking, that original front output shaft seal was just a felt sort of thing in a metal retainer, I suspect if you went through enough deeper water it would get infiltrated pretty quickly. Looking at the PPO's records, the last time he changed the transfer case's oil was 60,000+ miles ago.
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Jun 28, 2019 14:37
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Now that I think about it, I wonder if that's why my FWD car started grinding on 2nd gear downshifts - I wound up on a pretty badly flooded road several months ago (water was just barely coming up over the hood just idling down the road, still amazed the engine didn't take a drink). Do FWD manual gearboxes have a vent?. I've been meaning to change the fluid anyway, it's just a PITA to pull the drain plug.
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Jun 28, 2019 14:51
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You contribute so much to this thread and often enough I feel like you need your own thread. 
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Jun 28, 2019 14:52
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Suburban Dad posted:You contribute so much to this thread and often enough I feel like you need your own thread. Ha, thanks, I should. I started one a while back specifically for the Datsun, then with all the other stuff going on I just sort of defaulted to posting in here. I guess it's time to resurrect it.
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Jun 28, 2019 14:57
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The story of my new old car continues. Today I fought the bubbling rear fender. After a quick grind it turned out as expected, another shoddy repair job    This area was not repaired at all, just covered in layers of bondo and rust  The old bumper mounts were all broken and hot glued by the repair place.  Good thing we kept some fitting ones in the basement of our shop.  Time to fix.  I was hoping to keep the paint damage below the edge of the flaring so I filled the main holes by mig brazing and used heat sink compound on the paint above. Sadly the corrosion was stronger than expected, but there can be no mercy.  All the corrosion and bondo is removed and I filled the surface imperfections with a tin/lead alloy after pre tinning the area.  Finished result. All metal. All perfect galvanic corrosion protection. This will also out live the car now. Next week I'll start fixing the rear gate which means removing the spoiler and rear window 
Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jun 28, 2019 |
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Jun 28, 2019 19:52
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I, for one, am very interested in your work.
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Jun 28, 2019 21:42
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Darchangel posted:I, for one, am very interested in your work. same. that kinda old school bodywork i have mad respect for.
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Jun 28, 2019 22:05
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Indeed. I can do bodywork, but I'm not very good at it (possibly lack of talent, but definitely lack of practice - and patience.) Also, I don't really have a wide array of bodyworking tools. There's damage hiding under the fiberglass overfender in the rear of my AE86 that bothers me, and the front frame rail where the bumper attaches is bent from a previous-to-my-ownership accident. That car I'm likely selling before I get around to fixing that, but there's a bit of damage on my RX-7 that also needs fixing.
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Jun 28, 2019 22:56
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this still counts as minor fixes i think. The E39 that i got for myself after it was totaled by a truck was a proper fix.      awwwww yeah thats a good joint... 100% Metal, 0.00% Bondo        Sorry for the picture Spam Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Jun 29, 2019 |
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Jun 29, 2019 02:37
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Being good at what you do means never having to say you're sorry
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Jun 29, 2019 03:20
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Minor?????? Good god
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Jun 29, 2019 03:40
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hitze posted:Minor?????? Good god Combat Theory posted:
I found a problem on a shakedown: Drove my truck up to the lake and back after doing a bunch of work on the cooling system in the last couple of weeks. Ran great, temps were perfect but the sailing sucked. Got back home, went to dinner and when I got home I went out to the truck to look for leaks and check the level in the coolant bottle. Found this:  ATF on my radiator support and airfilter housing. That wasn't there when I checked up at the lake. I took the front end off and it looks like it's coming from the upper hose on the transmission cooler. I'll clean it up tomorrow and check the hoses. Maybe re-route them now that I've bypassed the radiator. And I'll polish those headlights.
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Jun 29, 2019 05:34
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Boys who love boys
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After "fixing" my old VAF, my car got another day's worth of driving before needing a new VAF. Two days worth of the best starting and driving the old girl has ever had, this little fucker died too So while dissembling the distributor to test the igniter, I noticed something that I can't believe I never noticed before; a sizable hole in the cap.  That's not supposed to be there, right?
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Jun 30, 2019 17:03
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Got the rear end jacked up high, got the exhaust loose, and then hacked the old cat backs in half. Installed the Corsa exhaust for it. Happy to have this part done. Doesn't sound half bad. New Corsa Exhaust https://imgur.com/a/uxpJKHs
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Jun 30, 2019 18:24
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I don't wish to alarm you, but it appears your plate expired 35 years ago. Sounds good though, is there any drone at all? The Door Frame posted:
Inspection window 
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Jun 30, 2019 18:32
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Its where the drain port "should" be. They're a bit annoying to fit with the with battery in place so they can get abused.
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Jun 30, 2019 18:37
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EvilBeard posted:Got the rear end jacked up high, got the exhaust loose, and then hacked the old cat backs in half. Installed the Corsa exhaust for it. Happy to have this part done. Doesn't sound half bad. How does it sound when it revs? Because that idle is pretty nice DJ Commie posted:Its where the drain port "should" be. They're a bit annoying to fit with the with battery in place so they can get abused. What is it supposed to drain, vacuum pressure? Powershift posted:Inspection window Now I can see the rotor spin while I'm under the car and the transmission's been pulled
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Jun 30, 2019 18:57
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The Door Frame posted:How does it sound when it revs? Because that idle is pretty nice https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxJwTAttkUg Sounds a little "tinny" because I shut the garage door, so some of the burble was bouncing off the door, plus I don't have a great camera to use.
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Jun 30, 2019 19:36
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STR posted:
Generally speaking they do, otherwise the only place for the pressure differential to go is through the seals.
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Jun 30, 2019 22:23
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Ever since I lowered my SS, the magnetic ride control didn't like thinking it was constantly under compression and as a result was super stiff. I brought it to the dealership so they could calibrate the ride height trim but the service manager said he won't let his dudes do anything since the car has modifications. I then headed to my normal alignment shop to see if they could do it, but they hadn't updated their Snapon Solus since 2016 and the Solus needs the 16.4 update or newer to do the calibration. I gave up and just bought a VXDIAG on ebay for $100 which lets me use GM's GDS2. Like three mouse clicks later I calibrated the ride height trim and the suspension feels slightly stiffer than stock, but half as stiff as it was prior to calibration. doogle fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jul 1, 2019 |
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Jul 1, 2019 19:20
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Don't you love it when capable professionals won't do a simple job? Are they allergic to money?
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