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Bad Munki posted:I doubt there’s an LP plumbing thread so maybe this is close enough. I just did this and it's awesome: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVTZZCL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You will have to disconnect the bottle adapter thing on the grill, but it's simple to put back on. I linked the 1/2" version which is what I got but the 3/8" is more than enough for a standard gas grill. I just love overkill. FYI, the hose is super soft, so it's not like you'll be fighting with it to move around/coil up. Edit: Installed:  Hose you need to remove, with the end of the new one hooked up:  Just make sure you have the correct tape for the joints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBXCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (the yellow stuff is gas rated....don't use the white plumber's stuff) Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jun 29, 2019 |
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Jun 29, 2019 23:47
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Bad Munki posted:I doubt there’s an LP plumbing thread so maybe this is close enough. Hire a licensed gas fitter dude to do it, (don't gently caress with explodey things if you don't know what you're doing). I'd replace that valve just because its probably like a 20 dollar piece and why the gently caress not. A gassy guy should be able to make you, or get made any type of flex or rigid line to go from the valve to the BBQ that you need. As far as making it able to go from your home line, to tank and back, a few different "sub fittings" should be easy enough to rig up.
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Jun 29, 2019 23:51
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Motronic posted:I just did this and it's awesome: Well, the fitting that’s on there is 1/2”, so that’s just easy to stick with. Although I think I’ll pop the shutoff off and put a 90 on so it hooks up to the side instead of straight out. This all looks great, though, thanks. Also, ha, we have almost the same grill, I got the genesis II with the closed lower half. Also the same Bluetooth temp probe module, it’s nice. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jun 30, 2019 |
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Jun 29, 2019 23:56
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Bad Munki posted:Well, the fitting that’s on there is 1/2”, so that’s just easy to stick with. Although I think I’ll pop the shutoff off and out a 90 on so it hooks up to the side instead of straight out. This all looks great, though, thanks. Couple of notes: Pretty sure this is no reasonable way to do this without removing the tank hose since that has a regulator on it, and you already have a regulator on your house tank. Also, I never ever will trust this grill and hose setup to not dump all 500 gallons of propane out of my tank, so it's shut off right before the quick connect (I see you have a shut off too) EVERY TIME.
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Jun 30, 2019 00:01
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I was inclined to keep the grill’s regulator in there, as I don’t actually know what pressure it runs at. It doesn’t say outright on the regulator and I haven’t looked up the type that’s stamped on there yet. It’s probably 9-ish, but my house runs right at 13 since I have a couple fireplaces that require 12.5 and having either one on will cause the pressure to dip to that level at the unit. I’d dial it back as far as 12 if needed but that may be overclocking the grill more than I’d like. e: I looked into this further, looks like the grill runs at 10.5", whereas my fireplaces run at 11-13" and 12-13" respectively. When they install my new, larger tank on Monday, I'm going to have them leave it at 12.5", since that'll be the middle ground for both these units (which are the only appliances we have on gas at the moment.) With that in mind, that's 20% over intended pressure on the grill.That'd probably just lead to it running a little hotter than normal, which might normally be fine, but for low-and-slow all day cooks, it might make it hard to get the temperature low enough. ee: a QCC1 to 1/2" or 3/8" would do exactly what I'm after here, it'd let me hook the previously linked kit up right into the existing QCC1/regulator combo. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jun 30, 2019 |
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Jun 30, 2019 00:06
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Bad Munki posted:ee: a QCC1 to 1/2" or 3/8" would do exactly what I'm after here, it'd let me hook the previously linked kit up right into the existing QCC1/regulator combo. Ahhhh, that makes sense. I didn't realize your house propane was that much higher. All good, that will make your grill tank regulator work fine then. Throw this on your amazon order: https://www.amazon.com/DOZYANT-Prop...CKVGXMZ3ND1AZWM You may need to hit the hardware store for some fittings to get all of this together, but it's gonna get you to where you want to be.
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Jun 30, 2019 15:12
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I saw those, but they’re QCC1 to POL, and I haven’t yet determined if the POL threads and extra nipple bit there are gonna mesh with a more standard 1/2” fitting. I’ll sort that out once I’ve got some bits on hand though. I also found fittings that are QCC1 to 1/4”, that would probably work fine as well, it’d just be running the gas through a smaller port right there at the grill, but that happens anyhow coming off a regular bottle. I’ll come back here with the final solution in case anyone is curious or wants to tell me I hosed up, but I’m being fairly cautious and doing plenty of research outside this thread, so hopefully there won’t be any big issues. 
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Jun 30, 2019 15:51
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Bad Munki posted:I also found fittings that are QCC1 to 1/4”, that would probably work fine as well, it’d just be running the gas through a smaller port right there at the grill, but that happens anyhow coming off a regular bottle. I didn't see anything like that, but yeah......that sounds like an easier solution. If you have success with this I might just make up another longer hose to connect to a patio heater.
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Jun 30, 2019 16:15
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Motronic posted:I didn't see anything like that, but yeah......that sounds like an easier solution. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E33GEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VmngDbW4NRX41
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Jun 30, 2019 16:21
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Need some guidance. I am redoing a deck and the previous deck just had the garden faucet sticking up out of it. This is dumb and I want to move it to the edge of the deck. First thought was just cut it between the ground and beam, press fit an elbow and PVC/Pex it to the edge. Then I realized Dallas does freeze in winter so here I am. What is the proper way to move it and why didn't the exposed pipe freeze previously? The faucet in front of the house sticks up about the same a few feet from the house itself. 
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Jun 30, 2019 19:07
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JEEVES420 posted:Need some guidance. I am redoing a deck and the previous deck just had the garden faucet sticking up out of it. This is dumb and I want to move it to the edge of the deck. First thought was just cut it between the ground and beam, press fit an elbow and PVC/Pex it to the edge. Then I realized Dallas does freeze in winter so here I am. The exposed pipe did freeze. Perhaps they were shutting it off and winterizing (i.e. draining it back to a point inside the house). Look for a shutoff with a drain:  That knob thing facing you can be screwed off and will drain the side that is past the valve. If you don't want to deal with that perhaps you can install a ground hydrant (if the feed is below the frost line already): https://www.google.com/search?q=ground+hydrant&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj9osDF65HjAhUJneAKHebMCGUQ_AUIESgC&biw=1366&bih=625 There are styles that a meant to be flush with the ground as well as the more typical ones that just stick up and have an handle on them as well as a hose connection. When you turn them off the water drains back to the bottom of the hydrant (and below the frost line) providing the hose isn't attached and holding vacuum.
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Jun 30, 2019 19:40
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There is no cut off and I am fairly sure the previous owner (nor I) ever drained it. Amazed it has held seeing as all the joints in the house were failing. So if I want to move it 8ft am I stuck digging down to where it elbows up and digging a trench to new spot?
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Jul 1, 2019 00:59
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JEEVES420 posted:So if I want to move it 8ft am I stuck digging down to where it elbows up and digging a trench to new spot? Yes or no. Can you isolate it inside the conditioned envelope of the house and add a shutoff with a drain and are you willing to deal with that? If so, no....do whatever. If not, then do it right, below the frost line.
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Jul 1, 2019 01:59
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wesleywillis posted:Hire a licensed gas fitter dude to do it, (don't gently caress with explodey things if you don't know what you're doing). I'd replace that valve just because its probably like a 20 dollar piece and why the gently caress not. A gassy guy should be able to make you, or get made any type of flex or rigid line to go from the valve to the BBQ that you need. As far as making it able to go from your home line, to tank and back, a few different "sub fittings" should be easy enough to rig up. Just to let you know, I didn't totally ignore this advice. I think I mentioned it in another post, but I was having a new (larger) propane tank installed. On the one hand, I didn't want to ask the guy and have him say "noooooo, you can't do that" but I also wanted his input on the topic if it was okay. So while he was checking the fireplace, I showed him the exterior valve and asked about the prospect of hooking the grill up to that. Great response, he said he had another customer doing that just the other day, and that it was totally okay. We chatted for a while, he said he probably had some fittings in his truck that he could swap on there to make it ready to go for the kit I had coming from amazon, and he was able to swap it all out while the gas was shut off, and I have total confidence it'll all be good to go. He put a nice valve on there, too, has a quick release built in and it locks the release when the valve is open. And it doesn't point out onto the patio anymore, it's aimed toward the corner of the house where I want the hose to run, like so:  Oh, and we talked about leaving the existing regulator on the grill or not, and he said absolutely take it off, the difference in pressure between 10.5" and 13" is so minuscule it won't make one wit of difference and the second reg will just interfere with the gas flow at such a minimal differential pressure. I knew it was a small diff, but I wasn't sure how sensitive appliances are. Of course, I still want to be able to quick-swap from house to bottle, but I'll either put a manifold in there to have multiple gas inputs (only one to be used at a time) with isolated shutoffs, or I'll just say screw it, because how often am I really going to want to go back to a bottle? So yeah, there we go, all set. Also, I haven't gotten to brew beer in ages and having that gas outlet all ready to go there on the patio, which is just out of my walkout basement, which is where the beer goes...well it's all pretty ideal.
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Jul 1, 2019 18:27
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, and we talked about leaving the existing regulator on the grill or not, and he said absolutely take it off, the difference in pressure between 10.5" and 13" is so minuscule it won't make one wit of difference and the second reg will just interfere with the gas flow at such a minimal differential pressure. That was my assumption as well, but I thought it might be worth trying since the fitting are cheap enough.
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Jul 1, 2019 18:36
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Yeah. He was pretty adamant that leaving it on would only make things worse, and I'd read similar accounts online of people doing this, and nothing working correctly until they removed it entirely. Still thinking about a Y'd input option though. Tank adapter/regulator on one input branch, quick release on the other. Would want some way to guarantee I absolutely can't open both at once, though, like an XOR switching valve or something. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jul 1, 2019 |
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Jul 1, 2019 18:37
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The thought of quick connect on gas bothers me. That is my input.
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Jul 3, 2019 01:38
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It’s a fair take, but it doesn’t seem to bother the actual company and technician installing the gas system, and that’s about as experienced and knowledgeable as you can get within reason, so if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for me. And as Motronic said, don’t trust your grill not to dump all your propane, shut it off when not in use.
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Jul 3, 2019 01:41
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BubbaGrace posted:The thought of quick connect on gas bothers me. That is my input. Me too, but 1.) I never leave the valve on unless I'm using it and, more importantly 2.) I'd never do this inside 3.) Even if I were to do it inside for some reason I've seen this on restaurant stoves for over a decade and everything is fine. If it can survive that kind of service.......
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Jul 3, 2019 01:46
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Worse than that, it’s a pretty typical thing on RVs, and when it comes to the lowest of low bars, RVs are what that bar would rest on.
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Jul 3, 2019 03:30
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I have galvanized water pipes. The piping is all exposed in my basement save for the riser to the various sinks. I’d like to replace them with 3/4” copper and 1/2” feeders to faucets. I want to leave the galvanized pipe in the walls until we remodel various sections or use PEX to fish it up wall. Am I total maniac for attempting this? I should start a thread for real pointers and pictures...
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Jul 7, 2019 18:24
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I've been there. I called in a plumber to hook everything up, but if you can tie in to your water inlet to get the pex/copper started it's fairly easy after that. Pex especially. Copper is a big pain in the rear end in confined spaces. Galvanized in walls is probably almost as good as the day it was put in. I still have remnants in my house and it's still crazy thick and strong.
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Jul 7, 2019 18:28
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SpartanIvy posted:I've been there. I called in a plumber to hook everything up, but if you can tie in to your water inlet to get the pex/copper started it's fairly easy after that. Pex especially. Copper is a big pain in the rear end in confined spaces. My issue is mostly on the hot water side, the rust clogs up some of the faucets. I also think the hose bib farthest away from the inlet has flow issues from the pipe not being smooth on the inside. I think run the numbers on material cost and tools and see if it’s worth the effort. So much of the pipe is exposed and easy to access it seems like a DIY project.
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Jul 8, 2019 19:08
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Scionic posted:My issue is mostly on the hot water side, the rust clogs up some of the faucets. I also think the hose bib farthest away from the inlet has flow issues from the pipe not being smooth on the inside. Yeah I should have specified my hot water galvanized pipe was replaced with copper before I bought the house. The hot water definitely corroded the pipes faster. I have uponor pex now and while the Milwaukee tool was ~$300, it kicks the poo poo out of sweating copper or twisting pipes together. I've used it to add/redo some piping on the hot and cold water side and it's been relatively painless. The hardest part has been finding the fittings. You can't find it at big box hardware stores (yet?), but all my local plumbing supply houses have it. The only part I wouldn't consider diy is tying it into the main water line. If something goes wrong you're hosed, and with an 80 year old pipe like my house had I didn't want to take the chance so I called in a master plumber. There's a lot of discussion on uponor vs crimp ring pex but I chose uponor because I liked how the pipe was more flexible and the system seemed easier to work with. Plus I had a friend of a friend have crimp rings snap and flood her house. I think uponor isn't likely to have a similar problem based on how it's held together.
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Jul 8, 2019 23:49
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SpartanIvy posted:The only part I wouldn't consider diy is tying it into the main water line. If something goes wrong you're hosed, and with an 80 year old pipe like my house had I didn't want to take the chance so I called in a master plumber. If you have a relatively uncomplicated straight shot across ~level terrain you might be surprised at how cheap that is to replace. It took some dude probably 2 hours to hand trench to our house, which admittedly is a straight 15-20' shot from the road. The dirt is 25%+ potato-sized rock by volume. (Think big idaho potatoes, not little red ones.) The last janky piece of our plumbing is now the private utility meter which definitely will shut off and they definitely won't bill you if it fails to turn off.
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Jul 9, 2019 00:27
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One of the coolest things I've ever seen is the method of replacing a main (PVC or polybutylene) by feeding a steel cable through the existing pipe, attaching a conical wedge and new pex line on the house end, and hooking the street end to the back of a truck and flooring it. The wedge splits the old pipe and threads the new PEX line right through it in about an hour without ripping up your yard.
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Jul 9, 2019 01:10
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B-Nasty posted:One of the coolest things I've ever seen is the method of replacing a main (PVC or polybutylene) by feeding a steel cable through the existing pipe, attaching a conical wedge and new pex line on the house end, and hooking the street end to the back of a truck and flooring it. The wedge splits the old pipe and threads the new PEX line right through it in about an hour without ripping up your yard. This is impressive but I would fire on the spot anyone I was paying money to if they did that poo poo instead of doing it properly.
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Jul 9, 2019 02:14
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.... What? I dunno about the "hook to an old truck" part, but assuming that pipe tension is kept within tolerance, it's not much different than directional boring. Why dig a trench if you don't have to?
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Jul 9, 2019 02:50
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angryrobots posted:.... What? I dunno about the "hook to an old truck" part, but assuming that pipe tension is kept within tolerance, it's not much different than directional boring. Why dig a trench if you don't have to? Just my first thought on this, but because this isn't how proper (or even code legal) pipe attachments happen.
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Jul 9, 2019 02:52
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angryrobots posted:.... What? I dunno about the "hook to an old truck" part, but assuming that pipe tension is kept within tolerance, it's not much different than directional boring. Why dig a trench if you don't have to? Besides almost certainly not being to any kind of code, as the wedge passes the PVC, it wraps back around the PEX being pulled through and puts more strain on the PEX pipe than should be as it's being pulled from the front. This probably causes it to fail prematurely. It also goes against my personal philosophy that the easy way to do something is never the best way.
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Jul 9, 2019 03:41
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Scionic posted:My issue is mostly on the hot water side, the rust clogs up some of the faucets. I also think the hose bib farthest away from the inlet has flow issues from the pipe not being smooth on the inside. You may do all that work and still not solve the problem or worse enhance it. You can replace 95% of the galvanized pipe in the house and still have the same issue because i of the remaining 5%. The increased pressure from the new pipe could cause all sorts of debris from the unreplaced galvanized in to your fixtures and stops. If you still proceed you better flush it out real good through a laundry faucet or an outside hose bibb. Also pray to what ever God you believe in. As far as the other comment about good and strong, that means nothing if the inside of the pipe is dialated from oxidation and iron. Please don't give advice like that if you aren't sure what you're talking about. Not trying to be a dick.
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Jul 9, 2019 04:25
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Motronic posted:Just my first thought on this, but because this isn't how proper (or even code legal) pipe attachments happen. Seeing how municipal utility gas/water/electric installs and repairs happen may have influenced my opinion. I'll say this - cross-linked polyethylene is an AMAZING product. 
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Jul 9, 2019 05:27
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SpartanIvy posted:It also goes against my personal philosophy that the easy way to do something is never the best way. If all you have is dirt between the foundation and the street, that's one thing. I found a video of them demonstrating a similar setup where there was tons of brick hardscaping and other flatwork right over the main. This job probably cost the homeowner <$2000, where the trench option and all the brickwork/cement would be many multiples of that and would be noticeable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2RHlUkinbI
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Jul 9, 2019 13:09
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Soooooo assuming the original pipe depth is appropriate for the climate, and the new pipe is rated for use, what code does this engineered solution violate?
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Jul 9, 2019 23:30
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angryrobots posted:Soooooo assuming the original pipe depth is appropriate for the climate, and the new pipe is rated for use, what code does this engineered solution violate? Nothing at all. I was talking about using this in walls.
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Jul 10, 2019 02:25
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Ah, ok - you thought the original post on the subject was about replacing pipe inside the house? Yeah I can see the objection, lot of potential issues with that. Pretty sure this is specifically a solution for buried pipe, and IMO it's a pretty cool option that requires a minimum of equipment. Really ideal for those of you in colder areas who also have basements. If something on the steel line pops, or the wedge/pipe grip comes loose though...  In the video posted, their method of feeding pipe while the truck was pulling (way too fast imo) was giving me anxiety. Would be a lot better to use a winch or something with lower gearing and more control.
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Jul 10, 2019 02:47
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Then I was way misunderstanding what you were talking about. Doing this underground is totally normal and old tech. Maybe this one is a new spin on it that better fits a particular use case.
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Jul 10, 2019 02:52
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I'm replacing a toilet that was sitting on an old cast iron flange which is partially broken (the right side of the flange that holds one carriage bolt rusted/broke off). The best method I am finding (aside from leading on a new cast iron flange) is to use a PVC one that has some sort of rubber gasket to seal on the inside of the pipe. The problem I am running into is that the flange is off of a 90 degree bend, so the PVC replacement flanges I am finding are too long to fit properly to the short depth. I've been googling for the past two days but I haven't been able to find a 'shallow' version of one of these. It being PVC, my first thought is to just hack it down a little to fit, but I was hoping to find a purpose-made piece if possible.
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Jul 10, 2019 14:29
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I saw a device at my local plumbing warehouse that's basically a thin but strong plate you mount onto the remainder of the broken iron flange and it basically restores your mounting holes. Seemed like a clever idea. e: This thing: Toilet Flange Repair Kit - Works on 3" or 4" Cast Iron, PVC or ABS Toilet Flanges with Broken Bolt Rails https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HGCYYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GMEjDbHXDRKMM SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 14:33
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So a while back I posted in here, and re-did my plumbing underneath my kitchen sink. The house is 110 years old and there is no vent stack here (but there is on the other side of the house for the bathroom). I removed the S trap and installed a P trap along with an AAV.  Now I want to re-do things again since I am adding a disposal and a RO system. I currently do not have an air gap, and just went with a high loop for my dishwasher. Should I just go ahead and put one in? Has anyone used these or similar adapters for the RO system drain (as opposed to the saddle valve)? 
30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 15:08
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