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Harbor Freight and Walmart both sell hanging LED fixtures now too, for pretty decent prices. One of the HF ones claims 5000 lumens, and there's often a coupon for  (the latest catalog has a coupon). Garage Journal likes them.I doubt they're actually 5000 lumens, but they're cheaper than the Costco ones. No telling if they'll last as long though. Geoj posted:^ That would be all of the panels that aren't steel (roof, trunk, hood are the only metal panels). So most of the car. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Jul 2, 2019 |
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Jul 2, 2019 05:57
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damnit, quote is not edit.
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Jul 2, 2019 05:59
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Deteriorata posted:Line the walls with shelving. A couple rows, with the lowest shelf high enough to clear the fenders of the car. Put a fold-up workbench along one wall. IOwnCalculus posted:I have two Hylofts, depending on size they list the minimum clear height as 15-17", but worst case there's no reason you couldn't cut the vertical bars down and install it even closer to the ceiling. Of course the closer to the ceiling it is the less useful it is. They're pretty decent for storing poo poo I never use but don't want to throw away, like the stands for my wallmounted TVs / monitors. Autoexec.bat posted:I have a similar arrangement, my garage has 7.5ft ish ceilings too short to fit our truck (opener required special low pivot hinges to not hit the ceiling after we added sheetrock) with about 18" on one side and 12" ish on the other. 2 support poles about a foot from one wall, has 3 regular doors on the sides and is a bit deeper than it is wide. We ended up going with cabinets/toolboxes/etc in front of one car and tucked the other in really tight against the 12" side and installing wall-mount shelves against the opposite side leaving a gap to open the pass. door. What you can do also depends where your interior door is and how much stuff you want to fit. fknlo posted:You probably have more room than you think provided you park properly. A second person can get in/out outside the garage. I won't be able to respond to all of these adequately, but here's a lovely sketchup drawing I just made. Hopefully the dimensions are visible. The entry door into the house is on the back wall, straight down the middle. Currently I have a big stacked tool chest to the right of the door as you walk into the garage. I have a little workbench to the left, covered in junk, and then some lovely shelving that the PO left on the walls that don't feel very useful or deep. I need to do a lot of cleaning up and organizing. I have my MS3, an SV650, kendon standing/folding trailer against the wall, and a contactor table saw and miter saw (both on mobile stands) taking up the other half of the garage. The saws, I will probably move to my shed. I need to order some sort of shelving to put lumber up on the walls of the shed and get that organized too. I will eventually either need to clean out the garage enough for a TTS to fit next to my car, or I will probably be parking my car outside when my gf moves in with me. I have 12.5" on either side of the garage door. In that nook on the right, there is a closet for the HVAC plenum and hot water heater with a pair of double doors that I cannot block . When the garage door is open, the clearance to the ceiling is about 7.5", so I don't think any ceiling shelves over the door are worthwhile.  My vision was to build some sort of workbench that would go along the wall to the left of the entry door and run that to the corner. I'm not sure if that will happen or if I'll just try to buy something that fits the space. Edit: found a picture of the garage. The sheet goods rack on the right is now organized and pushed up against the wall. It's about 18" deep and i have my passenger side tire almost touching it. I just finished a kitchen remodel, so i have a bunch of poo poo I need to figure out what to do with. Either return some extra trim to Ikea or donate it or store it in the shed. 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jul 2, 2019 |
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Jul 2, 2019 06:37
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Hopefully an easy one: Hyundai Elantra 2004 AC is no longer getting cold. Presumably it's out of refrigerant. Can I do this myself or should I be paying someone?
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Jul 2, 2019 21:26
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The best thing to do would take it to a shop that can remove any remaining refrigerant, apply a vacuum, make sure there are no leaks, and then refill with oil and refrigerant. If you try refilling it yourself you will have no idea how much refrigerant is actually in the system.
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Jul 2, 2019 21:34
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MetaJew posted:I won't be able to respond to all of these adequately, but here's a lovely sketchup drawing I just made. Hopefully the dimensions are visible. That's going to be tricky, I'm thinking about half of that stuff has to go to make it work well, especially that bulk sheeting, but you said you were cleaning it up anyway. An additional rack of shelves against the deeper wall and some spare empty space/hooks for narrow things on the other side should cover it and free up the room for that bench you want. They also make 1' deep wall mount cabinets that could buy space for small things but I'm not sure where you buy them, our house came with them. The toolbox looks like its already in a good spot but the depth is hard to judge. Some deep shelving in that recessed area should help too. Also if you aren't getting any taller cars you can make a ceiling mounted holder for your ladders/poles/PVC etc. Something like this. 
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jul 2, 2019 |
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Jul 2, 2019 22:09
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Yeah a lot of consolidation needs to happen. The tool chest barely fits on the raised portion of the slab, and I have to roll it one way or another to access the breaker box or the HVAC closet. I wish a three car garage house in Austin was affordable. This house was a fixer upper, and a good value for the location, but it is lacking in several areas. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jul 2, 2019 |
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Jul 2, 2019 22:46
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Geoj posted:Wiring up a set of Hella sharptones on my Mazdaspeed 3 to replace a dead horn - I'm running 12 gauge wire from the battery to a relay near the horns, should I complete the job with 12 gauge from the relay to the horns or would something smaller work over short distances? Wired this up today and my relay fried itself and stayed on. That's what I get for buying the $6 relay and pigtail Summit Racing puts out on the show floor.
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Jul 3, 2019 01:09
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STR posted:[Re: 2000 Estima with 1MZFE] I just ordered one of those bluetooth OBD2 ELM327 things, should arrive in a few days > Does anyone own one similar? And have recommendations for an Android app to use it with? The other two problems ("lurching revs after driving at slow speeds" and "bad juju engine noises uphill/pulling away from a stop, and more gas = more noise but not really more power") have been getting worse. Over a particularly winding mountain road the engine was doing its typical noise/power thing, but then...
I'll update with OBD2 reading when I get the thing - I don't really have a question on that for now, just by way of update. Other info: Oil pressure light was never on. Checked ATF while engine hot immediately after stopping, still above both pairs of notches (there's a Hot and a Cold pair on the ATF dipstick). > Therefore, ATF is overfull, right? > Is this a serious problem? I don't know how to drain it and don't have axle stands or a catch pan or even a driveway, so it'd probably mean taking it in somewhere. > Is there a colour reference I can check the ATF fluid against? Checked oil when cold, oil fine. Browny-semiclear, in between two dipstick notches Second question: I'm coming up to the 10,000km oil change - I've been offered 10W30 (mineral) instead of the 10W40 (synthetic) I was expecting. >Should I go with the 10W30? I know the 1MZ-FE gums up and I've seen thinner oils suggested on auto forums as the engine gets older But then I've also read the rings get worn as it gets older and a thicker oil recommended on similar forums. If it changes things, the engine's at 280,000km, been abused with probably god knows how many missed oil changes - it had no service history. Think rental-level turnover but a string of young private owners, none of whom probably bothered to spend on servicing. I myself am planning to sell it on in 4-6months (for cheap, just like I bought it cheap - it'll be sold-as-seen without any promises beyond being currently running. I'm not looking to pull the wool over anyone's eyes) Unlikely to put more than another 5000km on it in the meantime. Is there any work that I should/shouldn't consider doing based on this timeframe? 3rd Issue: Overdrive Haha let's leave this for now, there are more pressing problems simplefish fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jul 3, 2019 |
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Jul 3, 2019 02:58
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Torque for Android. Was the engine running when you checked the ATF? Don't coast in neutral. You're using more gas than you would in gear, and if by some random chance the engine happened to stall, you've just lost your power steering and power brakes.
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Jul 3, 2019 05:42
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This isn’t crucial but I’m sleeping in my tent in the San Juan islands in the same camping spot (car camping) I’ve gone to for the last 3 years. (Always 4th of July) I have a 2013 Ford Explorer. Every year, (and every day of our trip) the battery dies. I assumed it was the more-frequent in and out grabbing stuff out of the car, with the running and interior lights coming on. But my car died yesterday and I jumped it and drove about 30 min and came back to camp. It was dead again this morning and after jumping dead again tonight. I barely went in and out of the car today. Is it something else, like when your phone is in a bad service area and wastes its battery looking for service? (GPS?) Is it maybe something else? It’s possible I have a poo poo battery but it ONLY EVER HAPPENS on this camping trip every year. Any thoughts?
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Jul 3, 2019 05:51
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Feenix posted:It’s possible I have a poo poo battery but it ONLY EVER HAPPENS on this camping trip every year. Without any other information about your general usage and age of the battery it's overwhelmingly likely that you do have a poo poo battery that is good enough until you are in a high usage situation like this. If this is a new/multiple batteries it might be worth digging in to more details. Any parts store can test this for you, but the real test (carbon pile) takes a couple of hours so be prepared (i.e. pull it yourself and drop it off).
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Jul 3, 2019 05:55
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Could be a poo poo battery. It’s crossed my mind. It’s just odd as I’ve been “in and out” of my car a lot more on some occasions at home and never even a falter... but every year I’m on this trip (and every single day of the trip) it dies. Just such a weird set of circumstances. I’ll go have it looked at I suppose. I feel like I took it to Ford once already and they said it was fine.
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Jul 3, 2019 06:02
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STR posted:Torque for Android. Thanks for the app recommendation I can't remember if it was running, I think so but I'll recheck about the ATF Coasting downhill wasn't about saving gas, I was coasting to try to reduce strain on the engine since putting load on it was what brought the Check Engine light on. I figured the less the engine was involved the kinder I was being to it. And wouldn't that make it less likely to stall? By the way, I saw you have a 1MZFE too, any thoughts on the oil grade?
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Jul 3, 2019 06:10
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My mother's car has it - I was supposed to get the car a few months ago, but it didn't happen. She's run 5W30 synthetic in it (almost always Mobil 1) since the day she bought it brand new, but hers is a 2003. Engine has a little bit of what sounds like lifter tick, but it's been ticking for almost 100k miles (has 180k now). It's not noticeably down on power. 10w30 should be fine if you're not in a cold climate; I prefer synthetic, but if you plan to unload it soon, gently caress it, just get whatever's cheapest. A check engine light doesn't mean there's some kind of catastrophic failure - more often than not, it's an emissions issue or a sensor failing. You can generally get to your destination just fine so long as the CEL is either off or lit solid. If it starts flashing, that's when poo poo is about to hit the fan. Not nearly as bad as the oil light coming on, but it definitely means "pull over as soon as you can safely do so unless you like replacing catalytic converters" when it's flashing. The "more noise with more throttle, but not more power" sounds like a clogged catalytic converter to me. You can pull one of the primary O2 sensors (unplug it if you do this, otherwise you'll burn out the heater in it) and see if your power increases. It'll definitely trip the CEL when you do this, and won't run that great, but if it's a clogged cat, that's a very effective way to temporarily uncork it as a test.
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Jul 3, 2019 08:17
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Feenix posted:Could be a poo poo battery. It’s crossed my mind. It’s just odd as I’ve been “in and out” of my car a lot more on some occasions at home and never even a falter... but every year I’m on this trip (and every single day of the trip) it dies. Just such a weird set of circumstances. If it's the original battery you're due.
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Jul 3, 2019 14:58
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I have an '07 Kia Spectra that has about 90,000 miles on it. It's been a sturdy standby for me for years, but within the last week-or-so the driver's-side front brake on my car has been squeaking anytime I brake or turn left. Life got in the way for a bit, but I made an appointment with Midas for Saturday to get it checked. When I got into my car after work today, the check engine light was on. The car is running fine other than the incessant squeaking. Can the check engine light be activated by brake issues? Do you think it's safe to drive until my appointment?
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Jul 3, 2019 23:00
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Tart Kitty posted:I have an '07 Kia Spectra that has about 90,000 miles on it. It's been a sturdy standby for me for years, but within the last week-or-so the driver's-side front brake on my car has been squeaking anytime I brake or turn left. Life got in the way for a bit, but I made an appointment with Midas for Saturday to get it checked. When I got into my car after work today, the check engine light was on. The car is running fine other than the incessant squeaking. Can the check engine light be activated by brake issues? Do you think it's safe to drive until my appointment? The CEL would not be triggered by your braking / suspension / drivetrain issue. In most cases, the CEL is going to be related to various sensors and emissions control related stuff. Provided the car starts and runs, it should be fine. It will certainly be fine until Saturday. If you are particularly worried, you can stop by an auto parts store and they will pull the codes from onboard diagnostics for free, and then you can look them up online. As a quick initial fix, make sure the gas cap is fully tightened.
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Jul 3, 2019 23:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The CEL would not be triggered by your braking / suspension / drivetrain issue. In most cases, the CEL is going to be related to various sensors and emissions control related stuff. Provided the car starts and runs, it should be fine. It will certainly be fine until Saturday. If you are particularly worried, you can stop by an auto parts store and they will pull the codes from onboard diagnostics for free, and then you can look them up online. As a quick initial fix, make sure the gas cap is fully tightened. Awesome, thank you so much!
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Jul 3, 2019 23:25
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So, I just wanted you guys to know as a follow-up: Apparently, these GM "quick connect" heater hose couplers snapping off in the intake manifold is so prevalent and commonplace that not only are there multiple youtube videos presenting competing methods for how to extract them, this is also a thing that exists: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-62200-Heater-Coupler-Remover/dp/B0002SRCME The packaging specifically states it's a Heater Hose Coupler Remover, and elaborates that it "Removes Broken Heater Hose Couplers on GM Engines" in three languages. I'm gonna give this a try and report back.
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Jul 4, 2019 01:01
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Brittle 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jul 4, 2019 |
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Jul 4, 2019 01:06
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the part in the intake manifold is "mild steel" (actually cheap as possible cheese metal masquerading as steel?) or possibly aluminum, but random internet people say they were used to speed up factory assembly and not at all to help owners "quick disconnect" the hoses. I got a replacement, but then read that and people saying to just replace them with a normal hose fitting, so I got one of those too and if it fits I'll just use it instead. I'll have to replace the ~8 inches of hard line that feeds into it on my truck, but that's fine too.
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Jul 4, 2019 01:10
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Leperflesh posted:they were used to speed up factory assembly and not at all to help owners "quick disconnect" the hoses Nailed it. They're not quick disconnect in any way once they get some years on them. I had a hell of a time breaking my fuel filter loose, with the proper tool. And I managed to snap the nipple off of a <2 year old evap purge valve just by unbolting it to do the valve cover gasket (then had to extract the broken nipple from the quick connect on the purge hose... wound up using a drill bit and some needle nose pliers, at least it was plastic).
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Jul 4, 2019 01:16
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My '01 miata cranks but won't start (no CEL either), after a long hot couple hours of errands. My first thought was low oil, my last oil change was 6k miles ago and the dipstick was dry when I checked but the oil pressure gauge always stayed about the same and I never noticed any leakage or burning. The car only has 104k miles on it and is in good condition otherwise.
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Jul 4, 2019 03:39
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Motronic posted:Almost nothing for under $60/day is going to have ACC an lane centering. In cars that MIGHT be in that price point you are looking at the highest trims and even then it's largely optional equipment. I'd say your best bet to get close would be looking at Ford Fusions, Nissan Sentras, and Toyota Camrys. This, but check Turo, I've had good experiences there and found typically higher spec cars for less than a rental counter. Most 2017+ Subarus are likely to have this equipment: look for goofy huge cameras on either side of the rear view mirror
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Jul 4, 2019 03:39
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tha_hotstepper posted:My '01 miata cranks but won't start (no CEL either), after a long hot couple hours of errands. My first thought was low oil, my last oil change was 6k miles ago and the dipstick was dry when I checked but the oil pressure gauge always stayed about the same and I never noticed any leakage or burning. The car only has 104k miles on it and is in good condition otherwise. Check spark, Miatas tend to eat spark plug wires for some reason. If you don't have spark, replace plugs & wires, or check the coil pack.
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Jul 4, 2019 04:09
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Did Canada get a MK 4 golf hatch with different bumper / lights treatment? I saw one today with a B.C. plate, but it was going the other way and didn't get a good look. Just curious. Pretty sure it was MK 4, I don't know my VWs well though. edit: at this age it could be an import, I suppose. edit 2: more specifically, it had a u shaped pushbar thing on the front bumper and clear taillights.
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Jul 4, 2019 06:29
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I don't know for sure, I don't think so. Clear tail lights can be had for like $100, so I'd guess they're aftermarket. It's a VW, after all. https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Lighting/Tail_Lights/Set/
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Jul 4, 2019 12:17
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Charles posted:Did Canada get a MK 4 golf hatch with different bumper / lights treatment? I saw one today with a B.C. plate, but it was going the other way and didn't get a good look. Just curious. Pretty sure it was MK 4, I don't know my VWs well though. edit: at this age it could be an import, I suppose. VW Golf City. You weren't imagining things.
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Jul 4, 2019 14:28
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fknlo posted:VW Golf City. You weren't imagining things. https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Golf_City Yup that's it. Cool. Somehow I hadn't seen one before.
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Jul 4, 2019 15:22
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I'm replacing the exhaust (rear silencer) on the Miata and it was fine until it was time to take off the old donut gasket. It's well stuck on the center pipe side, somehow fused with heat and rust. I tried to pry it off with a screwdriver but it just crumbles bit by bit, with strands of wire and so!e other crap (hopefully not asbestos) coming off extremely slowly. Are there any tricks to getting these off? I'm a bit worried that I'd mess up the surface completely with a grinder, but manually it's taking forever and I might not get it actually clean.
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Jul 4, 2019 16:09
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I typically use a cold chisel and a hammer. Something as wide or a bit wider than the gasket.
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Jul 4, 2019 16:13
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Car is a UK 2010 Civic 1.8si with the R18A2 engine. It was being driven a few hundred miles a week untill maybe 6 weeks ago, since then it's barely moved. The last time I drove it I noticed it was a bit lazy cranking but it started and did a trip of a few miles fine, started fine again on the way back, but I was thinking that the battery was either low from sitting, or maybe on it's way out. My wife then ran a compressor from it with the engine off, and now it barely turns over. I have homestart breakdown so I can get a jump, but I'm wondering if I'm as well just calling it now and getting a new battery shipped. I can't see any date codes on the battery, but it doesn't look recent. Can a battery tester tell anything about the overall heath of a battery when it's only got a very slight charge? Or would it have to be fully charged for the test to be meaningful? Would you take the lazy cranking after that length of time to mean it's probably due for replacement? Pierre Chaton fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Jul 4, 2019 |
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Jul 4, 2019 16:50
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It's due for it's second battery since new. Sure, you can have it tested, but the real tests do a full charge, full discharge, and then a charge again. They take hours. Those quick testers are mostly crap.
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Jul 4, 2019 17:36
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Also consider that Honda uses tiny little batteries in their cars - they have basically no margin for "okay but not great". The upside of this is that you can definitely tell when the battery is on the way out with lazy cranking like that. When I start hearing that on my Honda, I've got a couple days at most before it gives up completely. So as soon as I hear it, I haul the battery back to Costco and swap it.
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Jul 4, 2019 18:19
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Motronic posted:I typically use a cold chisel and a hammer. Something as wide or a bit wider than the gasket. Thanks. I only had a screwdriver and it didn't really do the trick. As always with car poo poo, applying enough of your precious time usually solves it. I cleaned about a 1 cm section with pincers by grabbing a few strands at a time (took forever of course), until it was completely gone in that part. Than I caught one edge of the gasket with a pipe wrench and tore it off now in larger chunks. Anyway, everything fitted and there's a small leak in the joint (coming from one of the bolt holes in the flange) but worse, it seems that there also a leak in the cat-midpipe connection, which sucks in fresh air and causes the CEL now. Cool. Motronic posted:It's due for it's second battery since new. On the other hand, my parents' car has been sitting for a few months and now measures like 1V. Is that resurrectible? I don't have a charger so I'd need to either jump it or buy a charger or take it somewhere.
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Jul 4, 2019 20:18
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mobby_6kl posted:On the other hand, my parents' car has been sitting for a few months and now measures like 1V. Is that resurrectible? I don't have a charger so I'd need to either jump it or buy a charger or take it somewhere. It's not jumping, an automatic charger won't work, so you're down to finding an old rear end manual charger and charging is slow for a couple days (and making sure it's topped off with water if it's not sealed) to see if it will work. I've done similar with mixed results. You're usually losing a LOT of capacity even if you do get it back because something something sulfated plates I think.
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Jul 4, 2019 20:28
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Yeah, that battery is toast.
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Jul 4, 2019 20:38
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C-Bangin' it 
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Oh gently caress me, of course just after being all smug about how great my battery is, this morning it wouldn't crank at full speed  I think the door wasn't fully shut so the dome light was probably on overnight. It's not completely dead so hopefully a few hours on a charger will get it up again. The other one, yeah, probably dead. I might get like  for it though.
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Jul 5, 2019 11:05
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I've killed my battery like 4 times in the past coupla months. I'm talking dead to the point where the central locking doesn't even half-clunk. I know the previous owner(s) are very likely to have treated it hard too, no idea when the battery was last new. My previous car turned off the lights when the ignition was off. This one doesn't even when the key's out. The thing still starts just fine even in cold weather after sitting for a few days, sometimes I'll run the radio a while after stopping too if I'm in the middle of listening to something. It just shrugs it off. I'm not really making a point here, beyond maybe wondering if I have some kind of super battery?
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Jul 5, 2019 11:31
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