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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The biggest difference is bowden extruders. My linear advance is up to 1.25 and the corners are looking better. Should I give up on linear advance and go back to retraction/deretraction? Most of the guides say "if you can't get it working by 0.85 then it's not for you." I'd keep pushing it until it gets to a point you're happy with, or until something goes obviously wrong -- it's not going to cause any catastrophic damage. I started to write a post explaining what happens as you bring the compensation up, but remembered that the Marlin devs already have a good explanation: quote:In v1.5 ... LIN_ADVANCE will now check if it can execute the advance steps as needed. If the needed extruder speed exceeds the extruder jerk limit, it will reduce the print acceleration for the line printed to a value which keeps the extruder speed within the limit. Klipper's implementation of the feature may differ. For instance, if it doesn't take the extruder jerk value into account as discussed in the first paragraph up there, then setting your k-factor too high might mean you're attempting to drive the motor faster than it can reasonably accelerate the filament across that long path, and you'll end up stripping filament or jamming the system. Try the solutions they suggest. I personally am not a fan of bowden extruders; the combination of a well-designed geared extruder like a Titan and a 20mm pancake stepper gives you plenty of torque in a lightweight, compact package, so I don't really see the benefit of moving the drive system offboard. Worth considering the upgrade if you're running into problems with a bowden setup.
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Jul 5, 2019 22:54
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Sagebrush posted:Worth considering the upgrade if you're running into problems with a bowden setup. If i'd wanted to pay for upgrades, i would have just bought a prusa :P 1.35 linadv works great. Tuning in retract/layer retract now. I thought linadv made it so retract was always 0 (NOT WITH BOWDEN). Also printing at 240mm/s with klipper. Up from 100mm/s on marlin. My Y motor is officially getting hot now, and I think I'm going to say this is my limit. For reference, I had been printing at 35mm/s before and getting "ok" prints. Now at 240mm/s my prints are "good."
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Jul 5, 2019 23:21
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LOL if you think your machine achieves that speed for longer than a fraction of a second at any given point in a print.
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Jul 6, 2019 01:01
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AgentCow007 posted:For sure... I was trolling for the most part since I've seen that video and I wouldn't mind owning one, but that was my first impression. I keep a spreadsheet to keep track of how close I've gotten to spending a Prusa's worth on my Ender 3. If you only count the mods I've kept (EZABL, DD mod, 5015s, and eventually EZboard) I'm still not doing bad at all at $475 including printer. Which hourly wage are you using to get such a low number?
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Jul 6, 2019 07:02
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Dr Hemulen posted:Which hourly wage are you using to get such a low number? I've fired myself several times already, but security hasn't been able to keep me off the premises.
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Jul 6, 2019 15:54
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Dr Hemulen posted:Which hourly wage are you using to get such a low number? Hobby time is not the same as billable hours to most people, and many of us enjoy the tinkering as much as the actual printing.
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Jul 6, 2019 16:31
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Dr Hemulen posted:Which hourly wage are you using to get such a low number? Gonna need to see your privacy policy and have you just quick sign this NDA before can answer that, I'm sure you understand
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Jul 6, 2019 17:23
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Anybody using Klipper? I decided to convert my farm to it and now I'm lost because this was a dumb decision. It prints ... but I'm hoping to add features. I'm looking for runtime-adjustable stepper amperage (RAMBo 1.3), filament runout detection, and possibly "baseline" config files (I have 6x printers, I'd like the major settings common and printer-specific settings overridden, like PID values / exact Z homing distances, etc). Are there any killer features I'm not using, having come from the Marlin world?
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Jul 6, 2019 17:33
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You mean software-adjustable? You can configure TMC driver currents via software, yea. Check the example-extras.cfg file for that in the tmc_* sections. The RAMBo 1.3 is listed with A4982s, tho. --edit: Oh that board has digipots to the A4982s. Not sure about these. --edit2: If it's AD5206 pots, there's a section in the examples-extras.cfg with the same name. --edit3: Oh yea, the schematic says it uses that one. So I guess you can do it after all. Filament run-out detection should be doable. I've spotted people on the Voron Discord talking about exactly that a few days ago. The examples-extra.cfg has a section for that, too, in the filament_switch_sensor section. Can't do file includes in configuration files. Yet. I suppose you could submit a request for that over on the Github. On the other hand, you can override things like PIDs, pressure advance, and a bunch of more I can't recall, via G-Code. If the hardware is the same between printers, you could create a G-Code macro for each printer and call it in the print start section of the slicer accordingly. The master branch has additional support for variables and this Jinja2 stuff to use with macros. insta posted:Are there any killer features I'm not using, having come from the Marlin world? Other than that, it just lays down filament like any other firmware. The kinematic system is kinda nice. Easy to extend, if necessary. There's S-curve motion planning on the backburner. The actual motion code in the patch is just like 50 lines of code. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jul 6, 2019 |
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Jul 6, 2019 20:29
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Have any of the Prusa owners used any hardware that didn't come factory with the printer? I have a viki2 just sitting in a box that I could use, wondering if it's worth the time and energy. (Or if anyone wants to buy it..)
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Jul 6, 2019 20:49
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Acid Reflux posted:Hobby time is not the same as billable hours to most people, and many of us enjoy the tinkering as much as the actual printing. Absolutely. But some of us have very limited hobby time, so those hours become precious. People should just be aware that the cost is more than monetary when getting into this. If you like to spend time tinkering and learning to repair and upgrade printers that's fair. I just want to print stuff and spend my time trying to design things and learn about that side of the hobby.
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Jul 6, 2019 21:37
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3d printing has always had a certain amount of "you don't HAVE to tune and endlessly fiddle your printer, you GET to!"  I get what you're saying because that part isn't some exciting learning opportunity to me, it's just busywork I could do without, but some people really dig it.
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Jul 6, 2019 22:03
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 Playing around with a .2mm nozzle some more. Each head took 3ish hours at .04mm layer height on my CR10S. These are 6 inch tall figures, so it turned out pretty good I think.
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Jul 6, 2019 22:43
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The Eyes Have It posted:3d printing has always had a certain amount of "you don't HAVE to tune and endlessly fiddle your printer, you GET to!" I like my Ender 3 and have pretty much maxed it out to where I want it, but finally made the decision and will be eating Goldbären soon.
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Jul 6, 2019 23:36
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Frozen Pizza Party posted:Have any of the Prusa owners used any hardware that didn't come factory with the printer? I have a viki2 just sitting in a box that I could use, wondering if it's worth the time and energy. (Or if anyone wants to buy it..) I have not, because when poo poo isn't broken, I don't fix it. That said, someone clearly has. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070594
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Jul 7, 2019 16:54
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Just got my Elegoo Mars DLP printer from amazon for $250. Resin is $25/500ml which isn't too bad honestly. Looking forward to setting it up and seeing my very first 3d print.
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Jul 7, 2019 23:40
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https://youtu.be/yrYQp-3GUTY I just got this core x y printer and I get this clicking when the filament can't feed apparently. I've tried different filaments and I have upped the temperature but it still clicks often. Any ideas? Sometimes it starts clicking when the printhead is moved far away from the side of the printer that has the filament tube.
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Jul 8, 2019 01:35
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The lever is moving when it clicks. You sure the bearing pressing against the drivegear isn't just hosed?
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Jul 8, 2019 01:37
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It's definitely clicking because the filament isn't feeding. The bearing problem noted above is one potential cause. Other reasons: - temperature is too low to extrude properly (solution: increase temperature, check hotend temperature to ensure it's reporting accurately) - heat is soaking up to the cold side of the hotend and causing filament plugs (solution: better hotend cooling) - filament is swollen and getting stuck (solution: dry filament before printing, use better filament) - nozzle is clogged with junk (clear nozzle with wire, do a few cold pulls, replace nozzle, put a dust cover over your printer and filament) - filament is getting stuck somewhere along the bowden path (simplify path, remove sharp bends and obstructions, check for any places it could get hung up) - motor is not getting enough power (turn up current on stepper driver) - motor plug is getting pulled out as the head moves and you're briefly losing one phase (reroute wires so they have plenty of slack, check connectors) - motor is not powerful enough (switch to geared extruder for more torque) Personally I've dealt with enough stupid ungeared 1:1 extruders that only just barely develop the torque required for printing that I would put in a Titan before trying anything else. That click-click-click-click is infuriating to me and if I can just power through it you're drat right that's what I'm gonna do. The 1:1 extruder is the only thing about the Prusa that still bugs me a little bit (but they have chosen their motor and current settings well so I've never had one of theirs give me problems). Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jul 8, 2019 |
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Jul 8, 2019 02:16
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https://youtu.be/OKbekYCFSUs I'm thinking it is a weak extruder. It starts clicking as the printhead moves further away.
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Jul 8, 2019 03:52
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First thing to check is to pop off the nozzle and bowden and see if it's clogging.
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Jul 8, 2019 10:50
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My 1 week / <20 hours print time old Prusa MK3S gives me "THERMAL RUNAWAY" errors, twice in a row now. Any idea what causes this, and what's Prusa's support like? Contacted them through their on-site form.
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Jul 8, 2019 12:19
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Thermal runaway = 'I've applied power to the heater but the temp isn't going up' Generally, it means your thermistor isn't reading correctly. Either its connection to the mainboard is dodgy, or it's not making good contact with the heater block. It could also just be going bad. Check connections and mounting, and then failing that, get a new thermistor.
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Jul 8, 2019 13:14
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AlexDeGruven posted:Thermal runaway = 'I've applied power to the heater but the temp isn't going up' Or, "Temp dropped more than 15C, bailing." in the case of Prusa.
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Jul 8, 2019 14:24
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bolind posted:Or, "Temp dropped more than 15C, bailing." in the case of Prusa. Also valid. Basically "Something happened with the temperature that I don't like and I'm shutting down so I don't burn the house down"
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Jul 8, 2019 15:03
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It's probably a dodgy connection or damaged wire. Prusa will set you up quickly.
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Jul 8, 2019 15:09
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Ughh used a filament spool I hadn't used in forever and discovered it got looped/whatever and it bound up. I think I cleared it but you can never be sure it's clear, you know?
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Jul 8, 2019 21:09
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Well, you can ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrPZWijkPZ4 I'm a retard when filming, but the idea is you get a bunch of loops off the side of the spool, then re-wind it back on.
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Jul 8, 2019 21:14
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Ok, I feel like a drat fool. I'm trying to calibrate my extruder steps but whenever I run "G1 E100 F100", I get ~100mm of extruded filament, and use only a couple mm of feed filament. I've tried running in relative mode, running in absolute mode and zeroing the extruder beforehand but no dice. I feel like I'm missing something obvious here. I'm running the default 1.1.4 marlin that comes with a wanhao d9/monoprice maker pro. poo poo was printing perfectly fine up until today when suddenly I could no longer get a first layer that wasn't a spaghetti mess. I tried re-leveling a bunch of times, but it seems to be consistently under-extruding even though I haven't made any changes.
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Jul 9, 2019 07:18
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Your e-steps must be just way off and it's a coincidence that about 100mm comes out of the nozzle. 1.75mm filament has about 20x the area of your 0.4mm nozzle, so 100mm of extrusion means 5mm of raw filament. Multiply your current e-step value by 20 and test it again. You can verify that the machine is interpreting things correctly by doing G92 E0 ; M114 to check that it's zeroed; G1 E100 F300; M114 again to check that the extruder thinks it's at 100mm. (Note the F300 -- that's my preferred feedrate for extruder test moves. Any 40-watt extruder in good shape should be able to melt filament at 15mm^3/s with zero issues, so might as well save yourself the time. You will notice that the extrusion is much fatter than the slower move due to molecular compression but that doesn't mean anything is wrong.) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jul 9, 2019 |
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Jul 9, 2019 07:33
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Sagebrush posted:Any 40-watt extruder in good shape should be able to melt filament at 15mm^3/s with zero issues, so might as well save yourself the time.  Note about temperatures in this graph: The temperature reported by my hotend at that time was about 10-15C too high, it's a pretty old screenshot. That doubly reinforces my point though, that one shouldn't assume that "any 40W extruder" performs up to all expectations. The purist way to do it is to calibrate the extrusion steps without a nozzle on at all, since then all you're measuring is the filament feed and not that it all came out the nozzle. I don't go that far, but I do run the nozzle at the max temperature for the material type and use F100 to minimize the above error. Especially when calibrating a machine I know nothing about at all, I wouldn't make assumptions about its performance. Of course, there's something to be said for tuning your E-steps tuning at your print temperature and volumetric print speed, but that's far too much work for me. I won't even take my nozzle off. CapnBry fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Jul 9, 2019 |
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Jul 9, 2019 12:55
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If you can't afford a prusa the Sainsmart branded Creality Ender 3 is $160 on woot today. Mine's still really good although there is always some tweaking to do when you buy one. https://www.woot.com/offers/sainsmart-x-creality-ender-3-3d-printer-10
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Jul 9, 2019 14:15
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CapnBry posted:Even before you notice the material getting chewed up by the drive gear or the stepper slipping, you'll be moving less filament. So the filament just vanishes from existence or???
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Jul 9, 2019 16:04
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BMan posted:So the filament just vanishes from existence or??? It's just not feeding as much. It's already slipping, but not enough to easily notice.
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Jul 9, 2019 16:09
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I'm not really sure about your experimental setup. How are you getting more than 100% of the filament out that you put in? You must be including oozing in the figure I guess? And why did you jump directly from 210C to 230C? And if your temperatures are all off by 10-15 degrees, it means that only the hottest values there are appropriate PLA temperatures, and everything else is obviously too cold. And a Volcano is a different situation from a standard nozzle anyway. And how did you determine that your error figure is +/- 1%? I mean sure, extrude slower if you like; it's not going to hurt anything and it may infinitesimally increase accuracy. I have empirically found that up to 300mm/min works for PLA in an E3Dv6 at normal temperatures (210) and doesn't have any significant inaccuracies, which is actually consistent with your own data and its error. e: mm/min. 300mm/s does not work anywhere i've tried Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jul 9, 2019 |
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Jul 9, 2019 16:41
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I ended up factory resetting and attempted another print. First layer was still butts but not quite as butts as before, so I have no loving clue what's going on. Manual extrude commands still confound me and don't seem to actually extrude the desired amount of feed filament but prints seems to work. I did notice that M200 is reporting a filament diameter of 3mm even though I'm using 1.75mm filament. Volumetric extrusion isn't something I need to worry about unless I enable it in my slicer, right?
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Jul 9, 2019 17:03
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Do an M503 to read your current e-step settings and verify it's not something totally wacky. Heat the nozzle to printing temperature. Make a mark on the filament where it goes into the nozzle. G92 E0 G1 E100 F100 (fine, go slowly) M114 Check that the e-position is 100. Make a mark on the filament where it is, then eject it. Measure the difference between the two points. Calculate a conversion factor if the value is wrong, multiply that by the e-steps you saw with M503, set it with M92 Exxx.xx, save with M500, verify with M503, then run the length test again. Where in this process is your system failing?
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Jul 9, 2019 17:10
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Rexxed posted:If you can't afford a prusa the Sainsmart branded Creality Ender 3 is $160 on woot today. Mine's still really good although there is always some tweaking to do when you buy one. So the only difference is the branding?
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Jul 9, 2019 18:37
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He forgot to mention he’s using a 2mm nozzle?
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Jul 9, 2019 18:42
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bolind posted:My 1 week / <20 hours print time old Prusa MK3S gives me "THERMAL RUNAWAY" errors, twice in a row now. I've only got a MK2.5S, but right after I did the upgrade to S I discovered that the new hotend fan shroud was so good at cooling that on large flat PLA prints at 100% fan speed the hotend couldn't keep up with all the reflected cool air. I turned on the dynamic cooling option and set the low speed to 75%, high and bridging speed to 100% and have had no issues since.
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Jul 9, 2019 18:49
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