|
craig588 posted:I'm only 32, is that really getting too old to work on cars? One or two wheels probably would have been fine, but leaned over all 4 for a day was too much. I swear I don't mean this as some weird flex or fat shaming, but shape your body around what you want to be able to do. You don't even need to explicitly work out, but stretch and use the muscles you need to exert. Get your body used to the level of effort required to haul tires around and get up and lay down. Keep active and your body won't scream at you after some light wrenching. I learned this a couple of years ago.
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 18:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 06:31 |
|
|
I'm really good at cardio and bad at muscle stuff. I used to run full marathons and had a 5 minute mile. My 1 rep max for deadlifting was only 400 pounds though. Running was always easy, weights seemed boring. I'm disabled now and can't walk at all so it's no fun anymore.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 18:37
|
|
|
Working on cars doesn't take any large amounts of strength, flexibility or stamina provided you have the right tools for the job and apply them and yourself in the right way. Learning that though takes time and experience, where "experience" usually equals "doing it wrong and learning from it". Being stronger does mean you can get away with more "improper use" of both body and tools before it hurts though. There are very few occasions where you must apply lots of muscle strength to get something done and there's no tool to help you out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 19:12
|
|
|
I just used a floor jack to tension a belt. You don't get to tell me how to use tools correctly.
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jul 3, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 19:20
|
|
|
ionn posted:Being stronger does mean you can get away with more "improper use" of both body and tools before it hurts though. That sounds like me. I have no formal training, I just saw a big brake kit on a junkyard car and installation is the reverse of removal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 19:42
|
|
|
craig588 posted:I'm disabled now and can't walk at all so it's no fun anymore. Didn't realize this was the case when posting and calling you out on it. Don't I feel like an rear end in a top hat? Sorry, that was unfair to assume. 34 and working on cars makes me sore the next day generally so I just do little stuff anymore. Pulled a muscle just pulling/putting winter tires in the eye level storage rack last time. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 21:16
|
|
|
I've found the older I get, the less tolerance I have for working in extremely adverse conditions (heat, rain, last minute crunches). My cars are either new enough or optional enough that I use the luxury of time to put off doing work until it can be done in ideal scenarios. I've done enough changing water pumps in parking lots (that one was a motherfucker of a roadside repair).
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2019 21:49
|
|
|
Whatever sorry-rear end bean-counter in 1988* Hiroshima decided to make backwards facing loving screws the fastener of choice in tight spots behind the dash, instead of nuts and bolts like decent human beings with a moral center, well I hope his loving wife left him and he got crushed by a tipped-over used panty vending machine * or 1998, I don't know poo poo about NAs and their problems
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2019 03:15
|
|
|
Slapped the engine in today. I just heated the EGR pipe with an oxy torch and bent it to shape. The rear main seal finally broke lose after literally heating up the bearing retainer to 650F. gently caress that thing. It was hard to clean up as well. Slapped on an Exedy clutch and mated up the tranny, then slammed it in. It was extremely difficult to get the new motor mounts to line up since they swiveled. All in all a good day. Ordered a new bleed screw because i smashed the engine onto it. Whoops.  
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2019 23:16
|
|
|
Is the handbrake mechanism in the NA/NB robust enough to survive some yanking? I tried it for the first time to go around a hairpin at a trackday, but having seen the tiny hotdog thingy that's supposed to push the Piston I'm a bit concerned about how it would stand up to such behavior.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2019 11:09
|
|
|
Isn't that what clutch kicking is for in a RWD car?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2019 13:08
|
|
|
Yea just kick the clutch and you will oversteer all you want.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2019 23:11
|
|
|
How is that better than the handbrake though? I'd be just putting more stress on the drivetrain rather than the hot dog, and from what I've seen most actual drifters do use the handbrake anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2019 00:15
|
|
|
Super Serious Actual Drifters use a hydraulic handbrake, often actuating a separate set of rear calipers. And they still clutch kick.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2019 00:48
|
|
|
Are Miatas commonly used for drifting?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2019 01:58
|
|
|
mariooncrack posted:Are Miatas commonly used for drifting? No. Wheelbase too short, too hard to add torque, little aftermarket support for drift-specific mods, stock drive train can't handle additional torque and wear.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2019 02:25
|
|
|
I've been having horrible luck. I got the Miata running finally. Drove it all of ten miles before the ECU died on the highway. I spent all day diagnosing it. After confirming the main relay was fine, I'm just about to place an order for a used one. If I didn't need this car running now I would have jumped onto the Megasquirt train. At least this forced me to tidy up and remove and old Viper security system. With no manual and no context for what was factory loom and what wasn't, I very carefully started cutting away. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2019 21:23
|
|
|
The Prong Song posted:No. Wheelbase too short, too hard to add torque, little aftermarket support for drift-specific mods, stock drive train can't handle additional torque and wear. My good pal would have something to say about that https://www.instagram.com/conortwilson/ Seems like there are plenty of lock kits and other suspension stuff available for MX-5's, he's broken a lot of poo poo but this seems par for the course with drifting as it seems harder on the car in general than even normal track stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2019 09:58
|
|
|
I follow a bunch of drifters that use Miatas as alternate cars. Adam LZ is a oval office but he's drifted an MX-5 in the past.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2019 11:17
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I follow a bunch of drifters that use Miatas as alternate cars. Adam LZ is a oval office but he's drifted an MX-5 in the past. Taylor Ray does too I think. I wonder what happened to his C5 Corvette he was tryin g to drift there for a minute.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2019 14:47
|
|
|
God damnit gently caress this car.   The heads were just machined.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2019 03:32
|
|
|
Well, poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2019 12:28
|
|
|
Rip Miata hamster cage.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2019 12:57
|
|
|
Hey! Put a NWS tag on that!
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2019 22:53
|
|
|
F
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2019 23:09
|
|
|
Arghhhh
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2019 00:19
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:God damnit gently caress this car. Potentially dumb question, but how does this happen? Manufacturing imperfection, not enough grease/oil (I assume camshafts are lubed  ), something else (timing issues, re: that belt)? I am not a mechanic. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2019 04:27
|
|
|
This bearings ride on a film of oil distributed by an oil gallery fed by the shortblock. That is 100% caused by oil starvation which means it either had a clog in there or my oil pump exploded. The latter is a pain in the rear end to fix.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2019 11:43
|
|
|
On a scale of 1 to "lose some loving weight", what do you think my chances are of fitting a side-mounted Sparco Evo III and a roll cage in a stripped-interior NB?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2019 04:00
|
|
|
How tall/fat are you? I used jass performance sliders/adapters for my sparco sprint V seats in the 10AE. Side mounts were hopeless.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2019 19:04
|
|
|
I have a 1 piece side mount PCI bracket that works fantasticly for a sprint V.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2019 19:12
|
|
|
Wibla posted:How tall/fat are you? I used jass performance sliders/adapters for my sparco sprint V seats in the 10AE. Side mounts were hopeless. 5'10, mumblemumble pounds. (42" waist). Don't have teammates committed yet, but it's probably a good bet that I'll be the biggest one. I would like to make sure the seat can clear anyone up to 6'1" to be safe. The door card won't be an issue, which is good, but the cage will have NASCAR-style door bars.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2019 22:50
|
|
|
GD_American posted:5'10, mumblemumble pounds. (42" waist). Don't have teammates committed yet, but it's probably a good bet that I'll be the biggest one. I would like to make sure the seat can clear anyone up to 6'1" to be safe. I have a Sparco Sprint; the Sparco "Miata-specific" floor mount, and the Sparco aluminum side mounts. That setup makes the top of the seat about 1-1.5" away from the hardtop; which means that you'd have to have a torso shorter than the seatback to fit under the rollbar/cage. I have modified the floor mount to fir the seat directly in a bottom-mount configuration, which means it is no longer race-allowable under stricter regs, and that provides roughly 3-3.5" between the hardtop and the top of the seat. Width-wise you may have some issues. TrueChaos posted:I have a 1 piece side mount PCI bracket that works fantasticly for a sprint V. Which bracket is that? The SM-90MX5-S52R ? The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jul 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 14:20
|
|
|
I looked at this notch-out panel: http://www.miatacage.com/transmission-tunnel-notch-out-panel The only thing that worries me is the “not for use with catalytic converter” bit. I don’t want to start doing exhaust surgery too
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 15:36
|
|
|
Welp. The guy who rebuilt the engine said the head galleries have no clogs and the problem is oil pressure. The engine has to come back out and I need to buy another $200+ of parts. I'm at a point where I could have bought two used engines. I always knew rebuilding was more expensive, but wanted to keep the original engine since it ran well before the rebuild and I would know it's history and condition. This is spiraling out of control, especially since the intention was to replace the WRX I blew up while it was in the shop. We're at week 6 now...
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 16:03
|
|
|
GD_American posted:I looked at this notch-out panel: Sorry, not the seat, no notch-out required. I meant you, with a 42" inch waist, in a Sprint. There may be some hip-stuffing involved, but you definitely won't move side-to-side. Also: I haven't done the notch-out panel, but I do have a dropped floor plan, and it fit with the cat just fine. Of course, I have a race exhaust on it now and it's also fine, but... This is the best pic I currently have available of the dropped floor pan, from the top (click for very big):  It sits as low as the pinch weld. Causes proper high centering issues trying to get it on and off a trailer. Here's the best photo I currently have available of the exhaust area in reference to the floor pan, it's the black box to the bottom-right. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 18:50
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Welp. The guy who rebuilt the engine said the head galleries have no clogs and the problem is oil pressure. The engine has to come back out and I need to buy another $200+ of parts. I'm at a point where I could have bought two used engines. I always knew rebuilding was more expensive, but wanted to keep the original engine since it ran well before the rebuild and I would know it's history and condition. This is spiraling out of control, especially since the intention was to replace the WRX I blew up while it was in the shop. We're at week 6 now... Did you prime the motor before starting the first time?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 19:02
|
|
|
The Prong Song posted:Which bracket is that? The SM-90MX5-S52R ? https://www.pci-racing.com/product/89-05-mazda-mx-5-2/ That's the one I have. Can't remember if I got the tall person version or not, I probably did. I'm at the lowest, 2nd hole from the front on the rear mounting points, and the 2nd lowest, 2nd hole from the bottom in the front to get some recline. I'm 6' and wear pants with a 32" inseam. Had to sledgehammer the transmission tunnel to get it in, and the bolts are a real pain to get started on that side, but it's not like I'm taking it out frequently. Install tip is to thread the front bolts of the seat in with the bracket outside of the car, then install the bracket / seat assembly into the car, so that you can lean the seat forward to get to the rear bolts for the bracket to car install, and just drop the seat back and install the rear seat bolts. The front bolts for the seat are the biggest pain to do in the car. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jul 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 19:08
|
|
|
Phone posted:Did you prime the motor before starting the first time? As in make sure fluids were in the lines, head, filter, etc? Yea I cranked it without spark or fuel for about 15 seconds. Made sure belts were properly tightened and such while doing so.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 06:31 |
|
|
The Prong Song posted:
Does it feel weird driving? Any visibility issues going that low?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2019 22:59
|
|