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orange juche posted:Depends heavily on the ICs on the sticks, but I would advise going to youtube and watching Buildzoid's video on DDR4 overclocking. Funny enough I just listened to it while I'm working and half paid attention to it. It's Samsung bdie apparently. The aorus rgb kits.
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Jul 10, 2019 19:50
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Two intakes, single exhaust fan, right?
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Jul 10, 2019 19:53
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I can't get audio to work at all on my PC. It's connected to my monitor through HDMI, but Windows is reporting that nothing is connected. I've been googling for solutions, but nothing's worked. It's a ASRock B450M-HDV. Drivers are updated. Any ideas?
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Jul 10, 2019 20:21
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Stickman posted:Your Audioengine A2+ has a built-in DAC (digital-audio converter), so if you plug it in to a USB port it will bypass the onboard audio entirely. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have a headphone jack, so you'll still be using the onboard audio for your headphones. Very helpful, thank you. I had no idea I was supposed to be using USB with these speakers! I'm looking at the images of the DAC and I'm not seeing any sort of output other than the RCAs on the back. Where's the 3.5mm for headphones? Also I have a boom mic added to my HD599 so I have an additional 3.5mm for the mic (one of those little U shaped things at the end with one for mic one for headphones). Is there someway to get both of those working? The front panel of my case has both so I just plug in there.
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Jul 10, 2019 20:26
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Astoundingly Ugly Baby posted:I can't get audio to work at all on my PC. It's connected to my monitor through HDMI, but Windows is reporting that nothing is connected. I've been googling for solutions, but nothing's worked. It's a ASRock B450M-HDV. Drivers are updated. Any ideas? Try manually installing realtek drivers from their website and make sure you have the right playback device enabled. For me the issue was having to install the realtek drivers.
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Jul 10, 2019 20:31
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poisonpill posted:Two intakes, single exhaust fan, right? I'm doing three in and 1 out because I'm weird and it will probably do nothing extra but meh. Also, for those of you who ordered that B-Die backorder on NewEgg: My DDR4-3600 CL15 is now being packaged for shipment  I still can't believe that price. It's not available for backorder anymore.
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Jul 10, 2019 20:47
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poisonpill posted:Two intakes, single exhaust fan, right? Yeah. That's not to say that you won't get better cooling with more fans, just that for most cases the additional gains are marginal and each fan adds extra noise. KingKapalone posted:Very helpful, thank you. I had no idea I was supposed to be using USB with these speakers! It's not exactly necessary to use USB with them, but you'll be using their internal DAC if you do. I'd try it both ways and see which sounds better! The Modi 2 is a DAC only - no headphone amp is included. You'd have to feed it's output through an amp like the Magni 2/3 (which is a pre-amp/headphone amp only) to connect headphones (this is the "Schiit Stack" that folks in the audio thread talk about). The Magni 2/3 also works with any RCA analog input, so you can skip the Modi and feed your onboard audio output directly into the Magni if the onboard DAC seems okay (no crackling/distortion/noise) but the output is just too soft for your headphones. Schiit also has a combined DAC/Amp, the Schiit Fulla 2, but it's not quite as well-reviewed as the Schiit stack. Either way, I'd start with the onboard audio and only consider adding bits and bobs if it doesn't seem adequate.
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Jul 10, 2019 20:49
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Astoundingly Ugly Baby posted:I can't get audio to work at all on my PC. It's connected to my monitor through HDMI, but Windows is reporting that nothing is connected. I've been googling for solutions, but nothing's worked. It's a ASRock B450M-HDV. Drivers are updated. Any ideas? If you're trying to do audio over HDMI, you're primary audio output is probably still set to your internal sound card. You'll need to change it to HDMI audio, which is probably listed as "[monitor name] (NVidia High Definition Audio)" if you have a NVidia card, or something similar for AMD. HDMI audio doesn't actually use your onboard sound at all, so your Realtek drivers shouldn't matter (but you'll want them updated anyway).
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Jul 10, 2019 20:52
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Checking in for my quarterly sanity check. When I decide to build a new rig it typically takes me a year of research and salivating to finally pull the trigger. So I have run into an internal debate on what I want this machine to do so I thought I'd present to you all my use-case and get a bit of feedback for my choices. Use Case: I use my computer mostly for gaming. The only "competitive gaming" I do is League of Legends. I typically play at the high platinum/low diamond ELO if that informs you of anything. The problem I'm running into is price efficiency. I WANT the ability to simply take a game that I've recently installed, shove everything to ultra and not worry about it. I don't overclock nor have ever been interested in it. I definitely am building this rig for CyberPunk 2077, as I think a lot of people are currently doing. My intended purchasing date is as close to Black Friday this year as possible in the hopes that I can catch a few deals. Other games I play: Total War: Warhammer 2, THree Kingdoms, etc. Stellaris Witcher III Borderlands II (III when released) Occasional shooter titles because who doesn't like to blow poo poo up, but I've never been an online shooter player. My current rig is as follows: CPU: i7-3770k RAM: 16gb DDR3 1866hz GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6gb Monitor: 21.5" Acer S0 Series S220HQL, 1080p 60hz Now, call me an old man, but I didn't even realize how bad my monitor was and have never really considered what an important piece of gear this is. So for this build, at first I was super high on transitioning to a 1440pm monitor. But the more I research, the more I am starting to feel that this set up is just too expensive for the transition. I imagine me simply moving to a high refresh rate (144hz, 1080p) monitor would be world bending for me as it is, and would cost *significantly* less than a 1440p set up, in which I would imagine I need to make sure I can get an IPS panel if the monitor thread is to be believed. Here is what I am currently planning for, again, with the understanding that I won't be pulling the trigger until late November so I know things will change. My budget CAN be pushed to 2k if need be, but I'm not really a fan of that, because my office at work has spoiled me rotten on multiple monitor set ups and a 1440p set up wouldn't allow me to do that. In addition, I can't use any of my old rigs components or peripherals because I intend on giving it to my son to start messing around with PC's. 1440pm Option PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($329.00 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($70.99 @ Newegg) Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Black Video Card ($459.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Acer - VG271U Pbmiipx 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($389.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech - G Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard ($108.99 @ Amazon) Mouse: Logitech - G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Optical Mouse ($49.00 @ Amazon) Total: $1811.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-10 15:27 EDT-0400 The other option of course is to significantly downgrade this build for 1080p 144hz gaming. Save on the GPU by going with a 2060, save on the CPU by going with a Ryzen 5 3600/3600X (or something from the earlier product lines0, and picking up two 1080p 144hz monitors at about the same cost as a 27inch 1440p.Then perhaps upgrading this build 3 years from now via GPU and monitor purchases. Given the use case, and the likely happenings with the new AMD Gpu's/Super Series releases, what path, from yall's much more experience, should I take here. This also begs the question, will I be able to, in the future, add a 1440p monitor as a primary, with two 1080p monitors as additional screen space. 1080p Dual Monitor Option PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($70.99 @ Newegg) Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($381.42 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Dell - S2419HGF 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($159.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: Dell - S2419HGF 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($159.99 @ Amazon) Keyboard: Logitech - G Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard ($108.99 @ Amazon) Mouse: Logitech - G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Optical Mouse ($49.00 @ Amazon) Total: $1494.02 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-10 15:54 EDT-0400 I feel like, at this point, any upgrade over my current build will be world bending regardless. I guess it's just a matter of how much I want to alter my gaming worldview. Sorry for the wall of text, but I appreciate the hell out of yall's feedback. Thank you in advance.
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Jul 10, 2019 20:55
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Zotix posted:Which board are you using? The msi mpg gaming plus x570. With a bundle at microcenter it was around 110 and it's been handling my 3700x very well. Also the chipset fan doesn't ever turn on as far as I can tell, but I'm not using pci4
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Jul 10, 2019 21:00
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Stickman posted:Your Audioengine A2+ has a built-in DAC (digital-audio converter), so if you plug it in to a USB port it will bypass the onboard audio entirely. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have a headphone jack, so you'll still be using the onboard audio for your headphones. Do you know whether the SupremeFX High Definition Audio CODEC S1220A (which is on the ASUS ROG Strix X570-E) is a step up or a step down from the Realtek ALC1220 codec?
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Jul 10, 2019 21:07
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Stickman posted:I've never seen those before, but going by reviews they look decent enough for the price. If you get some to use as case fans, you'll want to get the F12 (optimized for airflow) rather than P12 (optimized for pressure, i.e. radiators/heatsinks). Oh drat, you're right! I completely passed over the other model on that Amazon page. Thanks! I'm getting a Meshify C, and I think I've seen some posters say the case fans that come with it aren't great so I was thinking of adding a little more airflow.
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Jul 10, 2019 21:12
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Luccion posted:Checking in for my quarterly sanity check. When I decide to build a new rig it typically takes me a year of research and salivating to finally pull the trigger. So I have run into an internal debate on what I want this machine to do so I thought I'd present to you all my use-case and get a bit of feedback for my choices. These both look pretty good! CPU: You'd actually want the faster CPU for running 1080p, since the higher your fps the more workload on your CPU and the greater chance of it being a bottleneck. In your situation, though, I'd probably just go with a $200 3600 either way. It has significantly better single-core performance than the 2600X, but moving up to a 3700X isn't going to be much of a difference for gaming for a while yet (and you can drop one in at the point where it starts making a difference). Video Card: NVidia just launched their 2060 and 2070 "Super" refreshes. The 2070 Super replaces the 2070, starts at $500 and is a hefty 15-20% performance boost over the 2070. I'd definitely go with that over the 2070 for 1440p. The 2060 Super start at $400 and has performance roughly equivalent to the 2070. Babeltech has some good 1080p/1440p/Ultra benchmarks to get a sense of the performance you might expect. Monitor: I'd consider the Nexeus Edg27 over the Acer just for the variable overdrive, which reduces ghosting a bit. The 1080p panels have the added disadvantage of being TN panels, which reduces color fidelity and viewing angles. They're still decent monitors, though, and unfortunately 1080p/IPs/144Hz monitors just don't exist. The folks over in the monitor thread might have some better suggestions/recommendations!
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Jul 10, 2019 21:18
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Stickman posted:I'm pretty sure the Windows 10 installation media creation tool makes installers/isos with the updates pre-applied, but I'm not 100%. Thanks dude, I'll give that a try and report back!
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Jul 10, 2019 21:22
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surf rock posted:Do you know whether the SupremeFX High Definition Audio CODEC S1220A (which is on the ASUS ROG Strix X570-E) is a step up or a step down from the Realtek ALC1220 codec? The DAC itself is basically equivalent, apart from some minor internal differences. Anecdotally, I've heard good things about the rest of Asus' sound package (headphone amp/emf shielding), but I've never seen a technical review comparing them.
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Jul 10, 2019 21:28
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Can I have a recommendation for a short mATX (or ATX if it isn't taller than 50cm/20") case to put in a little cupboard next to my desk. The cupboard has enough ventilation when I'm not gaming that I can close it without temps getting out of hand. If I'm gaming I will open it, but something with good airflow would be great. My current case is a Silverstone Temjin that I'm donating to my brother...it was ok, but I'd like something with USB C ports and other modern stuff, ideally.
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Jul 10, 2019 21:36
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A Meshify C Mini would fit (though the top-mounted USB ports might be a bit tight). If you want to go compact there's the Silverstone ML04B. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of any mATX cases with front-panel USB-C, but most mATX motherboards don't have a connector for one anyway. E: Apparently Inwin has a mATX tower with USB-C! E2: It's pretty well-reviewed but doesn't come with any case fans, so you'd probably want to pick up at least on intake and one exhaust. Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 21:58
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surf rock posted:Do you know whether the SupremeFX High Definition Audio CODEC S1220A (which is on the ASUS ROG Strix X570-E) is a step up or a step down from the Realtek ALC1220 codec? If you care at all about audio quality, get an external USB DAC. Good ones are not particularly expensive these days. Spending money on the motherboard is not going to buy you nearly as much as it would if you spent it on dedicated hardware.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:03
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The number one benefit of an external solution is you get a volume knob.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:06
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TheFluff posted:If you care at all about audio quality, get an external USB DAC. Good ones are not particularly expensive these days. Spending money on the motherboard is not going to buy you nearly as much as it would if you spent it on dedicated hardware. What's your recommendation for a USB DAC with a decent headphone amp? I don't really know much about them outside "people like Schiit stacks", but that's $170 now that the Magni 2 is out of stock.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:07
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Stickman posted:What's your recommendation for a USB DAC with a decent headphone amp? I don't really know much about them outside "people like Schiit stacks", but that's $170 now that the Magni 2 is out of stock. You can get a Magni 3 (amp) and a Modi 3 (DAC) both as B-Stock from Schiit for $79 each, (that's $160 together). Should be on their B-stock & Closeout page on the left hand side. You're going to be pretty hard pressed to find a combined DAC/Amp that is as high quality for a price as low as $160. If that price is too high, I'd re-evaluate whether you really actually need an external DAC/amp, or if onboard audio would be fine anyways. It doesn't provide a noticeable difference when listened to on PC speakers, but if you've got a decent set of headphones with open backs, it's a pretty solid upgrade from motherboard audio. quote:What is B-Stock and Closeout? orange juche fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 22:13
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DeadFatDuckFat posted:Oh drat, you're right! I completely passed over the other model on that Amazon page. Thanks! I'm getting a Meshify C, and I think I've seen some posters say the case fans that come with it aren't great so I was thinking of adding a little more airflow. I've been using F12s as case fans for the past two years or so. They work well and are fairly quiet (though they're in a fairly loud room). I think you'd be pretty happy with them.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:14
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Stickman posted:I've never seen those before, but going by reviews they look decent enough for the price. If you get some to use as case fans, you'll want to get the F12 (optimized for airflow) rather than P12 (optimized for pressure, i.e. radiators/heatsinks). Actually, follow up question on case fans. I've never used PST before, do I just need one PST fan with that connector or do all the rest of the fans have to be PST in order to plug them all into one header and have them work at the same speed?
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Jul 10, 2019 22:17
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Stickman posted:Some recommendations: Thanks for the input. I do have some occasional workloads besides gaming/streaming that involve data compression and the quicker I can be done with that, the more time I have left for gaming. I also feel that the time saved by going with the 3900x for video editing and encoding will quickly make up for the ~170 Euro difference between the 3700x and 3900x and provide a more enjoyable experience/workflow. I am aware that I might even take a small hit in gaming/streaming performance when going with the 3900x, but I can live with that. Will look into the other motherboards, thanks for the heads up regarding the VRMs. I love USB ports though  I also thought that Samsung still was king of the price/performance and general product quality/longevity hill. Will take a closer look at the ADATA M.2.SSD. The EUR 70,00 can cushion the 3900x purchase or go towards a better mainboard.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:19
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DeadFatDuckFat posted:Actually, follow up question on case fans. I've never used PST before, do I just need one PST fan with that connector or do all the rest of the fans have to be PST in order to plug them all into one header and have them work at the same speed? PST is propriety Arctic thing, so I haven't seen it before. It looks like it just daisy-chains the fans so that you're running them off a single PWM header on the motherboard, which supposedly synchs them better? You'd need the initial and intermediate fans to be PST, but the terminal fan of the chain just needs the one connector so normal PWM would be fine. I've never noticed any noise issues using multiple headers, though, so I'm not sure if really provides a benefit over just standard PWM. Besides being able to connect more fans with buying extra splitter cables, that is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKi_7UVF3z0 mcbexx posted:Thanks for the input. I do have some occasional workloads besides gaming/streaming that involve data compression and the quicker I can be done with that, the more time I have left for gaming. If you have other applications that can benefit, 3900x is a great choice! Any gaming hit is going to be totally unnoticeable as it'll primarily be at fps higher than most current GPUs can run, especially at 1440p. Samsung has a good reputation for reliability, but most of the issues with early SSDs have been solved so it's tougher to justify that 30-40% Samsung tax! orange juche posted:You can get a Magni 3 (amp) and a Modi 3 (DAC) both as B-Stock from Schiit for $79 each, (that's $160 together). Should be on their B-stock & Closeout page on the left hand side. You're going to be pretty hard pressed to find a combined DAC/Amp that is as high quality for a price as low as $160. If that price is too high, I'd re-evaluate whether you really actually need an external DAC/amp, or if onboard audio would be fine anyways. It doesn't provide a noticeable difference when listened to on PC speakers, but if you've got a decent set of headphones with open backs, it's a pretty solid upgrade from motherboard audio. Thanks! An $80 Magni 3 + $50 Modi 2 is pretty tempting, though I'm not sure if there's a good way to make it work with my current setup (headphones connected to monitor with PC + PS4 + Switch so audio automatically switches when I switch inputs). Maybe just the Magni alone. Mostly I'm asking for making future recommendations, though, and as you say it's still on the expensive side for that. If there were a decent $30-50 dac/amp option it'd be pretty easy to recommend to people dissatisfied with onboard audio on cheaper boards. Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 22:34
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Stickman posted:A Meshify C Mini would fit (though the top-mounted USB ports might be a bit tight). If you want to go compact there's the Silverstone ML04B. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of any mATX cases with front-panel USB-C, but most mATX motherboards don't have a connector for one anyway. The other one I saw was this monstrosity.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:52
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Have my 3700x build put together but struggling to find mobo's that will work with it out of box or allow CPU-less flashing. Is the 450 Tomahawk basically my only sure choice? I had planned to go with ASUS X470 Pro but I can't seem to confirm that I can update the BIOS without another AMD processor. It is listed as having Zen2 support but I'm upgrading from an Intel 2500k and have no access to any other AMD procs, or really any place like Microcenter near me to get something. What are my options aside from the Tomahawk 450? I liked the 2 m2 slots as well as SLI on the ASUS, for only a bit more but if I can't use it without a different CPU first to flash it well then it's a bit of a dealbreaker
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Jul 10, 2019 22:58
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I'm not positive this list is complete, but it might give you a good starting point for research on what boards can USB update without an older AMD CPU on hand. https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/bvfo57/list_of_b350_b450_x370_and_x470_motherboards_with/
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Jul 10, 2019 23:29
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This is a perfect starting point until I can find people who have completed new builds successfully and see their components, I couldn't find anything like this but I wasn't looking this far back either. Will still welcome any suggestions from people building new Ryzen 3 systems if they have non Tomahawk non 570 suggestions hmm that list is actually much shorter than I anticipated, pretty much forces me into a MSI 450 series unless I want to drop double the money Scorps fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 23:31
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My system is slouching a little. I am currently on Win 7 with an i5-4690K, 16gb RAM, GeForce 1070. The main build is about 4-5 years old, and the 1070 was thrown in a couple of years later. I am looking to upgrade, possibly to reuse HDDs, SSDs, PSU, GPU in a new build with a new mobo, RAM, CPU, better cooling, better OS. If I were to Upgrade to a system running a newer CPU like an i9-9900K or Ryzen 7 2700X, with Win 10 and better cooling, would I notice a considerable difference in gaming FPS while reusing the 1070? For reference, if I play OW on medium settings, I cap my frame rate at 120 on the current machine. It would be nice if I could hit a stable 144 fps on a higher setting or resolution (1460p vs current 1080p). If I play something like the Witcher 3 completely maxed out, I get around 35-40 fps at 1460p I believe; I haven't checked in a while. Getting 60 fps would be nice. The other place where I would like to see better performance is multiple instances of activity on two monitors at once displaying separate frame rates. Not sure if this is a CPU or GPU issue, but for example, if I have any activity going on one of my other monitors while gaming or watching video, it severely neuters the frame rate on both monitors. My two main monitors are 144hz and 60hz respectively, i'm not sure how to alleviate this or what causes it.
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Jul 10, 2019 23:33
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BabyRyoga posted:My system is slouching a little. First thing you should do is upgrade to Windows 10.
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Jul 10, 2019 23:37
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For others that got the backordered 3600 CL15 deal, mine shipped.
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Jul 10, 2019 23:52
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Llamadeus posted:The number one benefit of an external solution is you get a volume knob. Well, yeah, this too  Stickman posted:What's your recommendation for a USB DAC with a decent headphone amp? I don't really know much about them outside "people like Schiit stacks", but that's $170 now that the Magni 2 is out of stock. I'm not much of an audio nerd and I don't have super high impedance headphones, so for myself I just got a FiiO E10K. It was like $75, IIRC. If you also want to do recording of some kind (for streaming, podcasting, music or whatever) another alternative is to get yourself a full USB audio interface which supports condenser microphones that require 48v phantom power, and it'll most likely have a headphone jack too. An decent entry level one like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is maybe $150 or so, and it'll have a few neat features like zero latency monitoring of whatever you're recording, a mixer, etc. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 00:02
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Can someone who feels like they're good at remaining neutral on things even with the bias of having purchased it please comment as to whether DACs are worthwhile? Been thinking about a schit stack for awhile but can't help but feel people with them are kinda biased. FWIW I use a pair of SRH 1540 headphones (normal impedance) so hardware wise I should be able to notice the difference as well as anyone.
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Jul 11, 2019 00:06
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Sub Rosa posted:For others that got the backordered 3600 CL15 deal, mine shipped. Mine shipped as well. Will that increase to cl16 on a ryzen?
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Jul 11, 2019 00:14
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VelociBacon posted:Can someone who feels like they're good at remaining neutral on things even with the bias of having purchased it please comment as to whether DACs are worthwhile? Been thinking about a schit stack for awhile but can't help but feel people with them are kinda biased. FWIW I use a pair of SRH 1540 headphones (normal impedance) so hardware wise I should be able to notice the difference as well as anyone. For me the selling point is pretty much just the volume knob, now. I originally bought it thinking I'd use it with high impedance headphones, but I ended up getting a pair of planar magnetic ones with modest impedance instead so I don't actually need the amplifier - the motherboard is loud enough. Historically I've had some persistent issues with buzzing and humming on motherboard audio, on several different boards, and I used to run a separate PCI-e soundcard to work around that problem, but my current board doesn't have that issue. Maybe the DAC sounds slightly better, but idk, I wouldn't trust my own judgement on that without a double blind test. Oh, and being able to not ever look at that obnoxious Realtek control panel is worth it too. e: while we're on the subject of audio - headphone DAC's are probably overrated, but investing the same money in a decent microphone (plus supporting stuff like a microphone arm and/or a audio interface) makes a gigantic difference for everyone who might be listening to your yammering, whether it's on discord or on a stream or w/e e2: I should note I have a rather high end motherboard though (Asus Maximus X Hero, Z370) TheFluff fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 00:14
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Stickman posted:These both look pretty good! Thank you for your sound advice Stickman, as usual. I'm going to research a bit surrounding 1080p 144hz benchmarking and then I suppose I need to watch what happens over the next 4-5months to these prices.
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Jul 11, 2019 00:24
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teagone posted:First thing you should do is upgrade to Windows 10. This machine will never ug past windows 7, there are certain applications I use that can't handle any higher versions of Windows (that wouldn't require the current GPU if it is extracted). But yes, that is high on the priority list if I build a new one using some of the old parts.
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Jul 11, 2019 00:37
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VelociBacon posted:Can someone who feels like they're good at remaining neutral on things even with the bias of having purchased it please comment as to whether DACs are worthwhile? Been thinking about a schit stack for awhile but can't help but feel people with them are kinda biased. FWIW I use a pair of SRH 1540 headphones (normal impedance) so hardware wise I should be able to notice the difference as well as anyone. I've been using Yamaha home theater receivers on digital outputs (SPDIF and later HDMI) for over 20 years but whenever I didn't (like say for LAN parties on the road) I could hear noise with the set of beyerdynamic headphones I use (DT 770 standards which are 80 ohm). Not terrible noise, usually just buzzing from a drive or significant change in processor power consumption mostly during level loads, but sometimes a constant hiss from the amplifier (though you could mostly only hear that when no sound was actually playing). External DACs are just way less likely to pick up noise like that, and should also have better amplifiers on them, but most of all the volume dial is the best feature.
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Jul 11, 2019 00:50
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 15:16 |
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VelociBacon posted:Can someone who feels like they're good at remaining neutral on things even with the bias of having purchased it please comment as to whether DACs are worthwhile? Been thinking about a schit stack for awhile but can't help but feel people with them are kinda biased. FWIW I use a pair of SRH 1540 headphones (normal impedance) so hardware wise I should be able to notice the difference as well as anyone. For casual listening you're not going to hear any difference unless your onboard is defective (buzzing, etc). If you're doing intense, critical listening I would still be surprised if it was audible, but external DACs can be measurably better. The Khadas Tone Board is essentially measurably perfect and only $100.
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Jul 11, 2019 01:00
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