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Stevefin
Sep 30, 2013

I have a problem that I do not know how to fix, and it seems to be unique to me if google search is anything to go by. I recently brought a Victsing 109A mouse and it works, I just can not install its drivers to fix the dpi settings so its not either super sluggish or too sensitive, The case came with a disc but I do not have a CD or DVD drive to put it in and the driver on their website just refuses to start

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Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Stevefin posted:

I have a problem that I do not know how to fix, and it seems to be unique to me if google search is anything to go by. I recently brought a Victsing 109A mouse and it works, I just can not install its drivers to fix the dpi settings so its not either super sluggish or too sensitive, The case came with a disc but I do not have a CD or DVD drive to put it in and the driver on their website just refuses to start

It downloads as a rar file with the PC109A_Driver_Setup.exe inside of it. Is that what doesn't run or are you trying to open the rar file? I'm using 7zip and was able to launch the install exe from inside of the rar with it (it extracts it to a temp directory then launches it).

Stevefin
Sep 30, 2013

Yeah I have unziped it but when I go to install the driver I get the this program needs permission, I allow it and than nothing happens, as far as I can tell the program fails to open under any settings

EDIT: to give an idea on how bad the stock settings are I was pretty sure I clicked on the mouse thread and not the keyboard one

Stevefin fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jun 22, 2019

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Stevefin posted:

Yeah I have unziped it but when I go to install the driver I get the this program needs permission, I allow it and than nothing happens, as far as I can tell the program fails to open under any settings

EDIT: to give an idea on how bad the stock settings are I was pretty sure I clicked on the mouse thread and not the keyboard one

Weird, it runs on mine after hitting okay to opening things from the internet with an Installshield wizard. Maybe you can try to right click and troubleshoot compatibility mode to see if that gets it going for some reason.

Stevefin
Sep 30, 2013

I had done that too and as far as the program could tell there was nothing wrong with it

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Stevefin posted:

I had done that too and as far as the program could tell there was nothing wrong with it

Not really sure then. I'd check the basics like antivirus interfering, an admin prompt sfc /scannow to rule out windows file corruption, etc.

Stevefin
Sep 30, 2013

Rexxed posted:

Not really sure then. I'd check the basics like antivirus interfering, an admin prompt sfc /scannow to rule out windows file corruption, etc.

No luck, I am probably going to return and get a refund as I can not use this mouse with its preset dpi settings

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

gently caress, I just placed an order for the Oblivion set. Regular Base + Hakomori alphas.

I've been going back and forth on whether I really want to splurge that much money or not. I'm in sort of a sunken cost situation: a while ago I built a 96 key keyboard that I really like. But I don't the SA keyset on it, gorgeous as it is. I constantly mistype and the keys wobble. And all the affordable keysets on aliexpress would require you to mix and match different sets to cover all keys. So that's what I'm telling myself when I go to bed tonight :v:

v1ld
Apr 16, 2012

Same, since I'm running ortho boards and it's relatively tough to find Cherry profile sets that support them. Oblivion looks nice and it has an ortho set whose modifiers can be used with other Cherry sets.

Got an EnjoyPBT blank non-ortho Cherry set from Alibaba in the meantime. Enough keys to swap around for modifiers and thumb keys.

It's a pity more people don't make Cherry. GMK's prices are kinda ridiculous. SP's are much better.

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.
GMK sets on Massdrop are pretty reasonable. It's when anyone else does group buys and it's like almost twice the price. But yeah, enjoyPBT sets are definitely quality.

Exit Strategy
Dec 10, 2010

by sebmojo
GMK: Boring caps for boring people.

Coming this week, sixteen different group buys for white-on-black or black-on-white sets, each of which uses slightly different colors for 'black' and 'white' to suit the individual taste of the serial public masturbator who 'created' the set.

G-Prime
Apr 30, 2003

Baby, when it's love,
if it's not rough it isn't fun.
Laser and Pulse would disagree with you, but use what works for you. :)

mewse
May 2, 2006

I thought I preferred OEM profile to cherry profile but the backlit cherry profile caps I'm using right now are so nice.

I found these which seem like the same factory (same legends) in an ocean dolch style colour scheme, selling for super cheap right now

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009


Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

G-Prime posted:

Laser and Pulse would disagree with you, but use what works for you. :)

Those are some very good colorways, but my only complaint about GMK is that the profile is uninteresting to me for completely irrational reasons. Can't get enough sculpted SA or MT3 though.

What other tall, spherical profiles are out there now? I can't remember if KAT or KAM is the hot new thing

Exit Strategy
Dec 10, 2010

by sebmojo

HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

Those are some very good colorways, but my only complaint about GMK is that the profile is uninteresting to me for completely irrational reasons.

I have a completely nonstandard board - 4x16 ortho - and so most sculpted profiles just don't work for me. I always appreciate a sculpted profile that accommodates ortho boards, but I still intensely dislike cylindrical profiles.

gently caress's sake, I use G20 Semiotic Standard at home because it's fun and I never look at my board anyway.

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

I love how SA looks, both in terms of shape and the available colorways. I just hate to use them. So I'll probably relegate them to my 'museum' board.

Artelier
Jan 23, 2015


hello i have a question about keyboards ! looking at 60 percent layouts and heard the vortex poker has a change caps lock to fn key feature, is this standard among similar keyboards or is this poker/model specific?

basically i am mainly worried about arrow key usage since i use them a lot for word editing but this sounds like a a great solution to not having dedicated keys

am overseas and found a shop that stocks a bunch of vortex, ducky, varmilo and leopold, so i suddenly have access to them and have one day to decide if i want one; and if yes, which one! stuck on phone and spotty-ish internet for research

LATE EDIT: to be clear, my home country (Malaysia) doesn't stock any afaik, only imports and there are huuuuge margins, so if i want one it's best to get one from Singapore while i am in town aaaa

SECOND EDIT: if i get one i will be transitioning from full 104 layout to a 60 percent which might have..adjustment pains, hence my apprehension

Artelier fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Jun 29, 2019

LochNessMonster
Feb 3, 2005

I need about three fitty


Artelier posted:

hello i have a question about keyboards ! looking at 60 percent layouts and heard the vortex poker has a change caps lock to fn key feature, is this standard among similar keyboards or is this poker/model specific?

basically i am mainly worried about arrow key usage since i use them a lot for word editing but this sounds like a a great solution to not having dedicated keys

am overseas and found a shop that stocks a bunch of vortex, ducky, varmilo and leopold, so i suddenly have access to them and have one day to decide if i want one; and if yes, which one! stuck on phone and spotty-ish internet for research

I use a pok3r for work on a daiky basis. Always worked on full size keyboards before with heavy arrow usage. The first 3-5 days were incredibly annoying but now I find myself regularly hitting the caps(fn)+ijkl combo for arrows when working on other keebs.

You get used to it really quickly. Page up/down/home/end are also conveniently accessible with the same hand.

Brownie
Jul 21, 2007
The Croatian Sensation
Yeah I post here whenever it comes up: after getting a pok3r (and using caps as fn) I have a really hard time programming on standard keyboard layouts. I’ve made sure that every keyboard I’ve bought since then was programmable and I configured the keys accordingly. It’s such a great layout. You’ll get used to it really quickly, and if you’re a touch typer you’ll find it’s much faster than having to take your fingers off the home row.

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003

I have some fancy modern mechanical keyboards (Wooting One, Anne Pro 2), but I'm really psyched about the 1990 Apple Extended Keyboard II I just picked up for $45 on eBay. Hopefully I'll be able to give the ABS plastic a nice oxide wash and make it look brand new again.

I'd also love to get my hands on a Space Saving Model M, but those are worth $200+ at this point. I'm honestly kinda shocked the Apple Extended Keyboards haven't gone up in price.

Corb3t fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jun 29, 2019

Heavy Metal
Sep 1, 2014

America's $1 Funnyman

Question, what's a good mechanical keyboard that is relatively flat angled and low, but with standard height keys? What I mean is I have a Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L, and I dig it overall. But with the feet in, it still has an angle where the top of the keyboard is higher, and is about 1.2 inches tall on the back side. And it looks like this is the the case for most keyboards. So just wondering if there's one where it's a bit less pronounced, for ergonomic reasons.

Also thinking of switching to a tenkeyless so I can have my mouse hand closer to my keyboard hand, in general just trying to make things easier on my arms.

Artelier
Jan 23, 2015


LochNessMonster posted:

I use a pok3r for work on a daiky basis. Always worked on full size keyboards before with heavy arrow usage. The first 3-5 days were incredibly annoying but now I find myself regularly hitting the caps(fn)+ijkl combo for arrows when working on other keebs.

You get used to it really quickly. Page up/down/home/end are also conveniently accessible with the same hand.


Brownie posted:

Yeah I post here whenever it comes up: after getting a pok3r (and using caps as fn) I have a really hard time programming on standard keyboard layouts. I’ve made sure that every keyboard I’ve bought since then was programmable and I configured the keys accordingly. It’s such a great layout. You’ll get used to it really quickly, and if you’re a touch typer you’ll find it’s much faster than having to take your fingers off the home row.

Thank you both for your advice! I decided to go instead with a Leopold 660M because it has arrow keys and an excellent colour scheme (blue and yellow) and I am loving it and also Ducky just announced they're going to enter the Malaysia market with the Ducky One Mini 2 which means there was no particular rush to get a 60% from overseas!

In the meantime, I am loving this smaller form factor and the keys feel so good. Night and day difference from my previous board, a Filco Majestouch 2. Even though they're brown switches, the build quality and lubrication makes a big difference.

I also found a local guy who's selling a used Pok3r if I feel so inclined (but he's selling it at the same price as the announced Ducky keyboard so I'm leaning to no).

Artelier fucked around with this message at 12:11 on Jul 2, 2019

Dia de Pikachutos
Nov 8, 2012

Yesterday I took delivery of a hilariously named "Metoo" brand keyboard from AliExpress. I mostly ordered it to see if it was possible to have a remotely serviceable mechanical keyboard that cost $20, and my initial impression was generally favourable...

...until I noticed that a few keyboard shortcuts that use left Ctrl+Shift weren't working.

It turns out it's not a bug, but a documented feature right there on the product listing:

quote:

Ctrl+Shift doesn’t work with this keys: N, M, greater sign, less sign, ?, “, :, H, {, }, |, P, O, I, U, Y, End, PgUp, PgDown, Delete

Anyhow, that's my cheap mechanical keyboard caveat emptor story, thanks for listening.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

spongepuppy posted:

Yesterday I took delivery of a hilariously named "Metoo" brand keyboard from AliExpress. I mostly ordered it to see if it was possible to have a remotely serviceable mechanical keyboard that cost $20, and my initial impression was generally favourable...

...until I noticed that a few keyboard shortcuts that use left Ctrl+Shift weren't working.

It turns out it's not a bug, but a documented feature right there on the product listing:


Anyhow, that's my cheap mechanical keyboard caveat emptor story, thanks for listening.

:w00t:

Khorne
May 1, 2002
What keyboard I should buy?

I've owned a ducky tkl with mx browns that died in a year or two and a leopold tkl with reds I've owned for 5-6 years where there's debounce issues developing with the a/r/w keys and around 1/3 the keycaps have broken where the stem goes in. Thankfully, I had that dead ducky to steal caps from and the ducky's caps have never broken.

I'm fine with any switch that's light and not loud. MX brown-like preferred, but I've used reds for 6 years and just don't care that much.

I'd like a tenkeyless again, because larger keyboards encroach mouse space while properly positioned for typing.

I have a ton of washers sitting around but if it came with them preinstalled that'd be great. I type ultra loud on any keyboard, even scissor switches.

Cheap, decent key rollover, durable would be my main priority more than any specific brand of switch. I also don't like backlights or rgb anything, and I don't care about colors.

I was also wondering if there's something I could do with the dead ducky. I have soldering tools. I'm pretty sure it was just the micro usb port that died, although that ducky I have is ultra cheaply made and the frame itself is warped too. It has a bunch of perfectly fine mx brown switches just sitting on the board. Although it seems like cherry fixed their supply issues and switches are cheaper now than before.

And while I'm here, is there a way to fix or replace the few red switches giving me problems on this keyboard? I use contact cleaner pretty regularly on the 2-4 that cause problems and it fixes it for a few weeks to a few months.

Khorne fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jul 11, 2019

skylined!
Apr 6, 2012

THE DEM DEFENDER HAS LOGGED ON
I bought the CTRl from massdrop, and am immediately loving the ability to swap out switches. I put red box kailhs on most of the alphanumeric keys, and clicky kailh whites on caps lock, esc, and other system keys for tactility. I can't imagine going back to a keyboard I couldn't swap switches on.

The programmability and RGB are neat also but the switch swapping is really what's doing it for me. Doesn't really check your 'cheap' box though.

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005

Khorne posted:

And while I'm here, is there a way to fix or replace the few red switches giving me problems on this keyboard? I use contact cleaner pretty regularly on the 2-4 that cause problems and it fixes it for a few weeks to a few months.
Do you mean like, short of opening up the case, desoldering the switches and soldering a bunch of new switches?

Khorne
May 1, 2002

Llamadeus posted:

Do you mean like, short of opening up the case, desoldering the switches and soldering a bunch of new switches?
Nah, I could probably do that soldering part. Are there any detailed guides explicitly for mechanical keyboards?

Khorne fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jul 11, 2019

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005
Never done it myself, but there are a bunch of videos on youtube so it can't be too complicated.

Khorne
May 1, 2002

Llamadeus posted:

Never done it myself, but there are a bunch of videos on youtube so it can't be too complicated.
Nice, once I get a new keyboard I'll replace a few switches in this one as a side project.

AbsoluteLlama
Aug 15, 2009

By the power vested in me by random musings in tmt... I proclaim you guilty of crustophilia!
Did you open up the switches and look inside? The switch is quite simple so pretty much the only thing going wrong could be dirty contacts on the inside. If there is nothing obviously wrong with the switch then it's going to be easiest to replace them. One downside is that switches do break in so the new ones may feel a little different for a couple of months if you're particularly sensitive.

Additionally, make sure the problem isn't with the PCB itself. If the solder joint looks bad it may just need to be resoldered. It's pretty hard to gently caress up but who knows how cheap the board is. You should close the circuit on the bad keys (with tweezers or something) and see if it registers properly as a keypress.

For a replacement keyboard: Don't be afraid of non-cherry switches. Cherry has lost their lead in the last few years and companies like Gateron and Kailh actually have better offerings depending on what you prefer.

AbsoluteLlama fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jul 11, 2019

mewse
May 2, 2006

Khorne posted:

What keyboard I should buy?

I've owned a ducky tkl with mx browns that died in a year or two and a leopold tkl with reds I've owned for 5-6 years where there's debounce issues developing with the a/r/w keys and around 1/3 the keycaps have broken where the stem goes in. Thankfully, I had that dead ducky to steal caps from and the ducky's caps have never broken.

I'm fine with any switch that's light and not loud. MX brown-like preferred, but I've used reds for 6 years and just don't care that much.

I'd like a tenkeyless again, because larger keyboards encroach mouse space while properly positioned for typing.

I have a ton of washers sitting around but if it came with them preinstalled that'd be great. I type ultra loud on any keyboard, even scissor switches.

Cheap, decent key rollover, durable would be my main priority more than any specific brand of switch. I also don't like backlights or rgb anything, and I don't care about colors.

I was also wondering if there's something I could do with the dead ducky. I have soldering tools. I'm pretty sure it was just the micro usb port that died, although that ducky I have is ultra cheaply made and the frame itself is warped too. It has a bunch of perfectly fine mx brown switches just sitting on the board. Although it seems like cherry fixed their supply issues and switches are cheaper now than before.

And while I'm here, is there a way to fix or replace the few red switches giving me problems on this keyboard? I use contact cleaner pretty regularly on the 2-4 that cause problems and it fixes it for a few weeks to a few months.

Ducky and leopold are both premium brands with really good build quality so it’s weird you’ve had problems with both of them.

There’s a video on YouTube with Luke from Linus tech tips titled “repairing my favorite keyboard” where he hot glues the micro-usb daughterboard on his ducky. That might be the problem you’re seeing.

I don’t know of any keyboards that have the o-rings preinstalled.

There are a million great TKL boards since you like that layout. I’d suggest the velocifire TKL01 which has clone brown switches for super cheap.

edit edit: awful app on my phone ate this post but saved it(???) so I was able to post it. This is the ducky repair vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xv94up8fCOo

e2: if you have a soldering iron and a solder sucker it's very straightforward to desolder switches

mewse fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jul 11, 2019

Khorne
May 1, 2002

mewse posted:

Ducky and leopold are both premium brands with really good build quality so it’s weird you’ve had problems with both of them.
Ducky wasn't premium at the time. They had huge QC issues in 2010-2011. They've since fixed them. I just bought it from them because it was $30 cheaper than any other manufacturer at the time.

Leopold, the keyboard is great but the key caps break. The small round part that goes over the stem cracks apart in 1-2 places. It took ~2 years of use for it to happen. wertyasdfghjopkl have all had it happen so far.

The switch issue is inevitable with any kind of mechanical switch and not Leopold's fault. I likely can take it apart and clean it thoroughly and it will be fixed.

mewse posted:

There are a million great TKL boards since you like that layout. I’d suggest the velocifire TKL01 which has clone brown switches for super cheap.
I'll check it out. Thanks for the help!

Khorne fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jul 11, 2019

ufarn
May 30, 2009
The latest Ducky Shine has an issue with a Space bar that’s too big and gets stuck from whaaat I’ve read.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Khorne posted:

I likely can take it apart and clean it thoroughly and it will be fixed.

MX switches are rough to disassemble without desoldering them from the board, because of the plate they're usually mounted on. The legs of the switch's top housing go underneath the plate and are trapped unless you've got a special plate with two notches on either side.

Gwaihir
Dec 8, 2009
Hair Elf
Kbdfans has their gigantic SUPER SWITCH TESTER back in stock btw:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr....31406938WRyvBh

Even though I don't exactly need new switches I'm getting one of these suckers just because they're a fun desk toy.

mewse
May 2, 2006

The cherry profile double-shot PBT ocean dolch set I ordered from aliexpress showed up. It actually came with the plastic tray as pictured in the listing:



Seems like an insanely low price for such a nice keycap set.

I also finally refurbed my AEK2 after owning it for about a year. I got some 45cN alps springs from sprit designs to lighten the key feel.

I ended up having to print a switch opening tool because trying to hold the top and bottom tabs open meant I needed a third hand to wriggle the switch top out. One of the keyswitches died entirely (the F15/pause key) but I think it was at the epicenter of a drink spill because there was dried coca-cola residue around that area. Replaced it with switch harvested from one of my french layout AEK2s.

So cleaning the switch tops and sliders in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubing the sliders all at once in a ziploc as per this guy's video seems to have restored the switches like 95%, there's no more grittiness from all the dirt it accumulated in whatever school lab it was in. I still have "NAT" lightly carved into the plastic near the arrow keys, but that just adds character I guess.

Heavy Metal
Sep 1, 2014

America's $1 Funnyman

I just got a Ducky TKL, the One 2 Midnight, good stuff. It's a good bit shorter than the CoolerMaster one I had, which I like, and it's got a nice feel to it. And the pink enter key is cool. Also coincidentally watched Howard the Duck at a friend's party earlier, quite cool.

internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice
Has anyone here used both NiZ and Topre keyboards? Thinking about going down the electrocapacitive rabbit hole and wondering if it's worth paying the premium for Topre. I like super light switches so the 30g domes on NiZ don't bother me.

internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Jul 14, 2019

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Bourricot
Aug 7, 2016



I've been happy with my Niz for 8 months now, and I should get my 30g Topre in a few days. So if you have any specific questions, ask away :)

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