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EvilBeard posted:If you're just going to airbrush, you can get similar results without having to use contrasts. What's the point of using contrasts when you already have access to those tools? i dont think you can get those results with regular paint. The way it moved into the recesses like a contrast is not something that happens with regular airbrushing. I mean maybe if you are an airbrush master but I am not that.
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Jul 10, 2019 03:25
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*The sound of ominous bagpipes echo over the horizon*     First of the Slaanork Deff Dreads.
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Jul 10, 2019 11:21
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All you marine painters are shaming me to get back to painting marines! Thank you for that!
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Jul 10, 2019 13:19
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I am really leaning towards painting the rogue traders next as a break from power armor, just not sure I can buy 130$ worth of box w/o shade from my wife. Just spent some $$ on movement trays and supplies for my display board. I just want that freaking dog.
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Jul 10, 2019 15:15
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Thanqol posted:*The sound of ominous bagpipes echo over the horizon* My god this is a thing of beauty. I am trying to figure out what weird things I want to do with my Ork Freebooters I want to build and your poo poo is so inspiring!
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Jul 10, 2019 20:14
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Eifert Posting posted:I am really leaning towards painting the rogue traders next as a break from power armor, just not sure I can buy 130$ worth of box w/o shade from my wife. Just spent some $$ on movement trays and supplies for my display board. I just want that freaking dog. Just buy that side of it from this guy https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273788191066
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Jul 10, 2019 20:17
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More progress on my seraphon, some knights this time. Pretty fun, although feathering out the two main flesh colours on the mounts took some time.
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Jul 11, 2019 00:20
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I've been on an eBay buying spree after marveling over how Super Clean (Purple Stuff) turns paint glob monstrosities into pristine models. I'm definitely not the best painter at this point, but I like the idea of taking before and after photos for my eBay Rehab Clinic!
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Jul 11, 2019 00:51
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Professor Shark posted:I've been on an eBay buying spree after marveling over how Super Clean (Purple Stuff) turns paint glob monstrosities into pristine models. I'm definitely not the best painter at this point, but I like the idea of taking before and after photos for my eBay Rehab Clinic! Hell yeah, I'm doing exactly the same thing with all the cool old sculpts I used to obsess over in old White Dwarf issues when I was a kid and way too poor to afford them. Might just be nostalgia but I really love a lot of the old Rogue Trader-era stuff and the old metal minis from Ral Partha / Grenadier, etc. Just loads of character and a weirdness that has kinda been lost over the years.
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Jul 11, 2019 01:10
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Same, hence my accumulation of Ork Nobs from 4th(?) edition, which I always wanted to paint. Rogue Trader seemed to be a lot of fun, I've been slowly piecing together my Space Marine chapter that has an Imperial Army division and has been cut off from the rest of the universe for thousands of years and is substantially behind on current trends, which is my excuse to include old school units like this guy  complete with an axe, straight from the rad old school art!
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Jul 11, 2019 02:13
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got a decent light box and my old-ish DSLR out so here are some better photos of my mediocre paint jobs! 
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Jul 11, 2019 02:14
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I like that this pic makes it look like he’s just chopped his own arm off. It must have offended him.
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Jul 11, 2019 02:52
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Xpost from 30k thread:Major Spag posted:Dead marines for a dead game.
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Jul 11, 2019 06:05
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So I went in a slightly different direction, and decided to paint my movement and range templates for Star Wars: Legion.  Black and red, for my
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Jul 11, 2019 23:35
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Question: has anyone got any good tricks for painting black skin in 15mm? I'm gonna be painting British WW2 infantry soon and since they weren't segregated and there were SOME West Indies guys in regular units etc, I want to mix in some darker skin tones, but I'm afraid I'll accidentally do such a bad job it'll be a hate crime. e: Thanqol posted:*The sound of ominous bagpipes echo over the horizon* Holy poo poo that owns.
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Jul 12, 2019 11:40
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Der Shovel posted:Question: has anyone got any good tricks for painting black skin in 15mm? Maybe this can translate somehow into 15mm? 
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Jul 12, 2019 13:52
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The new Catachan and Bloodreaver flesh paints would be a good way to bash it out easily. Catachan, wash it with Fuegan Orange to give it some living warmth then some tiny highlights with Bloodreaver.
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Jul 12, 2019 14:07
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Der Shovel posted:Question: has anyone got any good tricks for painting black skin in 15mm? Honestly, I'd try Doombull Brown with a wash of Agrax Earthshade. See how that works out for the color you're looking for. If you have access to P3 paints, Bloodstone is an amazing color as well just in general, but also in this situation.
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Jul 12, 2019 14:55
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I bought Rhinox Hide today, and I'll try that and Doombull. Let's see how it works out. Thanks, guys!
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Jul 12, 2019 17:18
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https://twitter.com/Garfytwit/status/1149732220770365442?s=20 This looks cool and good for time-saving when doing metal stuff.
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Jul 12, 2019 19:04
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Gunder posted:https://twitter.com/Garfytwit/status/1149732220770365442?s=20 Yeah I might try that with my Repulsor base.
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Jul 12, 2019 19:10
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What's the trick to using Stormhost Silver and the Gemstone Technical paints for Space Marine lenses again? Brush AWAY from the nose?
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Jul 12, 2019 20:16
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Der Shovel posted:Question: has anyone got any good tricks for painting black skin in 15mm? I actually just finished up a necromunda figure with a brown skin tone. It's not going to win any awards but I think it looks pretty good on the tabletop. I started with an even base coat of Vallejo Model Color Flat Brown, and then built up highlights by gradually mixing in more and more Vallejo Model Color Dark Flesh. I Used a thin mix of Flat Brown and Vallejo Model Color German Camo Black Brown for shadows. and pure German C. Black Brown in a thin wash for the deepest recesses.    In other developments, I finished my group of Mars Tau  
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Jul 12, 2019 21:06
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jassi007 posted:got a decent light box and my old-ish DSLR out so here are some better photos of my mediocre paint jobs! I gotta say, that is a truly orky ork. Nice w-ork.
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Jul 12, 2019 21:13
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Propitious Jerk posted:In other developments, I finished my group of Mars Tau I like these tau.
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Jul 12, 2019 22:32
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Made another mini on Hero Forge, this time a kinda urbany druid who probably sells shrooms in the park
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Jul 12, 2019 23:58
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dexefiend posted:I like these tau. Careful how loud you say that around here.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:05
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Gunder posted:https://twitter.com/Garfytwit/status/1149732220770365442?s=20 I don't feel like this looks any more impressive than doing the same thing with Nuln Oil.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:12
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Washing the thing with Nuln Oil would require a highlight pass afterwards. Doing this thinned Black Templar method skips the highlight step entirely. Also Nuln over Leadbelcher would look much more uniformly dark.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:22
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I am still waiting for 8 or so Contrast paints from my order, delayed again until next week. It wouldn't be so bad but they're all colours I am intending on using so my big pile of assembled Bloodbowl Teams (Goblin, Pro Elves and Halflings, along with the referees) is sitting there in grey plastic. The advert said Contrast was specifically designed to deal with this!
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Jul 13, 2019 00:28
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Gunder posted:Washing the thing with Nuln Oil would require a highlight pass afterwards. Doing this thinned Black Templar method skips the highlight step entirely. Also Nuln over Leadbelcher would look much more uniformly dark. I don't think that result looks any better than nuln oil without a highlight (on bright metal) and this model still looks like it needs a highlight. Thinned nuln oil would perform the same job. It's also $11.50 for the black contrast paint and $11.50 for the contrast medium.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:44
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Eifert Posting posted:Careful how loud you say that around here. 
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Jul 13, 2019 00:57
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Propitious Jerk posted:I actually just finished up a necromunda figure with a brown skin tone. It's not going to win any awards but I think it looks pretty good on the tabletop. I started with an even base coat of Vallejo Model Color Flat Brown, and then built up highlights by gradually mixing in more and more Vallejo Model Color Dark Flesh. I Used a thin mix of Flat Brown and Vallejo Model Color German Camo Black Brown for shadows. and pure German C. Black Brown in a thin wash for the deepest recesses. Great tau colors. Do you mind sharing?
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Jul 13, 2019 01:04
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JBP posted:I don't think that result looks any better than nuln oil without a highlight (on bright metal) and this model still looks like it needs a highlight. Thinned nuln oil would perform the same job. It's also $11.50 for the black contrast paint and $11.50 for the contrast medium. Agreed. Nuln gloss also ends up keeping away from the highest edges similar to contrast as well. You could argue that adds a varnish step but so does contrast if you don't want it to rub off so. I do like the black contrast straight over leadbelcher for a much darker metal and other tinting you can do with contrast in some cases.
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Jul 13, 2019 04:13
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Jst0rm posted:Great tau colors. Do you mind sharing? For the Orange I built up from a base coat of Vallejo Model Color Flat Red and Model Color Orange Red in a 1:2 Mix. I layered on Orange Red on most of the upward facing armor plates, then Orange Red mixed with Light Orange, then straight Light orange for highlights (It was a process and I probably could have built up from an Orange Red Base but the contrast is nice). There is one model that is a bit brighter looking and that's because I went a bit further with some Vallejo Game Color Sun Yellow highlights but I felt that light orange was far enough for the other two (because I was getting lazy). I ran a thin wash of German C. Black Brown over the cracks in the armor plates to push a bit more contrast and to give them a dirtier look. The light tan looking bits are actually Game Color Ghost Grey base coat highlighted with Dead White. Metals are based Black then painted with Citadel Ironbreaker, then given a thin glaze of German C. Black Brown, then dry brushed with Citadel Ironbreaker. This is my usual approach to doing metals. It's probably more than needed but I only have Ironbreaker at the moment so I need to use glazes to color my metal bits. The Bases were base coated with Model Color Hull Red and then given a heavy dry brush with Dark Sea Grey so that when I applied the dry pigments, some of the different colors of rock would come through underneath and not just be flat rusty red. For the weathering I lightly sponged on some Model Color Black and painted a bit of Citadel Ironbreaker Layer in the largest splotches on some of the edges. I definitely went a bit overboard in some spots with this technique, my advice is build it up slowly and less is more. Before moving on to dry pigments I varnished the entire model. I decided not to varnish over the dry pigments since they lose a lot of their dusty look, even though it'll fade over time. I then randomly brushed a heavy dusting of Secret Weapon Rust Orange Dry Pigment over the entire model to really sell the dusty, Mars atmosphere. This also stained all the white bits and built up around the rocks. Propitious Jerk fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Jul 13, 2019 |
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Jul 13, 2019 04:57
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I thought I'd post this guy before I gently caress it all up with either Soulstone for the lenses or Eshin+Nuln for the straps: It looks super gritty, which is either from the Corax White primer or the Praxeti White drybrush that I used based on a random 'eavy Metal guide for painting White that I found: 
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Jul 13, 2019 13:36
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I had that problem once. Turns out it was the primer. I had used a spray can to prime but from too far away. The paint had started drying before it hit the models giving them a grainy texture. The trick is to prime closer and quicker. Or give up on rattle cans like me and just brush on prime. It takes a little longer. But there is much less chance of loving it up. Plus it's easier to get the hard to reach areas without over spraying the surrounding parts.
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Jul 13, 2019 13:51
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BoneMonkey posted:I had that problem once. Turns out it was the primer. I had used a spray can to prime but from too far away. The paint had started drying before it hit the models giving them a grainy texture. What brand / type of brush on primer do you use? Curious.
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Jul 13, 2019 14:25
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Vallejo Matt black primer. At first I took a load of time doing it. Now I just splash it on like I'm brushing my teeth. Another thing I think I have found is that you don't need to completely cover the colour of the plastic. If a bit of red or grey shines through its still good enough. (Hopefully, maybe someone else can confirm this for me.) I also have Vallejo Matt white primer. But that so far has taken a lot of layers.
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Jul 13, 2019 16:18
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I always like me some good quality Tau.
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Jul 13, 2019 16:50
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