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Good info, thanks guys. I’m coming from a place of ignorance so this is good to know.
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Jul 14, 2019 13:50
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I've never riveted my own chain before; is this usual?   The spread on the front side is the same width as the factory rivets, more or less, but I don't think the backs of the pins were sticking out that far when I started (but then, maybe they were, I genuinely can't recall). e/ also recommend me a chain riveter I guess because this one was a freebie and physically painful to use Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Jul 14, 2019 |
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Jul 14, 2019 14:19
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M42 posted:Tire suggestions for drz400sm? Not ultra pricy like pr5 pls. Haven’t had a sumo so not sure what’s good. Pilot powers. They still sell the OG ones and the 160’s are really good for the DRZ. I’ve had them on both of mine and they’re light years better than what comes with it. It will (hilariously) tip in even easier with the 160 on the back, but it’s not bad and I never wanted for extra traction on the pavement
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Jul 14, 2019 18:50
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I have some kind of hosed up starting issue again. This time with the BMW S1000XR. Sometimes when I press the starter button it cranks for about 1/4 of a second and then stops. Then pressing the button elicits no response. A few seconds later it works normally. I have had the button replaced by the dealer, but the problem persists. It's more common in the morning. Moreover, I almost got stranded today, this time closer to noon with temperatures close to 80F. Pressing the button just did fuckall. Here's two vids of this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3h438fUVLEs&t=56s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9o2Ge4kceoc Any ideas wtf? I checked the battery voltage today. 13V with bike off and 14.5V at 4k rpm.
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Jul 14, 2019 19:40
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Pilot powers. They still sell the OG ones and the 160’s are really good for the DRZ. I’ve had them on both of mine and they’re light years better than what comes with it. I most recently put Pilot Powers on my DRZ, though they were 120 front, 150 rear. Can confirm, they’re lovely.
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Jul 14, 2019 19:56
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Renaissance Robot posted:I've never riveted my own chain before; is this usual? You hosed up unfortunately. There should be a little anvil on the other end of the riveter that holds the pins from driving out. It also doesn't look like the pins are mushroomed enough which is probably because they started pushing out instead of flaring when you riveted them. It's not the end of the world, you can just push them back to where they should be and try again. pokie posted:I have some kind of hosed up starting issue again. This time with the BMW S1000XR. Sometimes when I press the starter button it cranks for about 1/4 of a second and then stops. Then pressing the button elicits no response. A few seconds later it works normally. I have had the button replaced by the dealer, but the problem persists. It's more common in the morning. Moreover, I almost got stranded today, this time closer to noon with temperatures close to 80F. Pressing the button just did fuckall. Here's two vids of this. Your dealer sounds pretty useless. The ECU is making a decision to stop cranking because voltage is below a given threshold. So a wiring problem or something causing voltage drop, or there's some sort of issue with the starter relay or starter itself. The button is just a digital signal telling the ECU to start cranking and is almost never the problem. I'd suggest looking at the battery voltage while attempting cranking, I'd also try jump starting the battery when the problem appears and seeing what happens.
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Jul 14, 2019 20:23
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Slavvy posted:
Slavvy posted:
I will do that tomorrow and take a vid for y'all. I have started it 5 more times today with no problems.
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Jul 14, 2019 23:37
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Do you have a Lithium Ion battery by any chance? Because that disconcerting starting issue is normal operation for them. RE Pilot Powers, great tires, cheap, short tread life, but that's probably not an issue for a light rider on a light bike.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:53
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Slavvy posted:You hosed up unfortunately. There should be a little anvil on the other end of the riveter that holds the pins from driving out. It also doesn't look like the pins are mushroomed enough which is probably because they started pushing out instead of flaring when you riveted them. It's not the end of the world, you can just push them back to where they should be and try again. No joy on this unfortunately, the pins absolutely do not want to go back. Hopefully I can find a single master link with quick shipping. Riding my girlfriend's bike to work until then. Which is also busted but only "hates starting cold" busted and not "may throw the chain at any moment" busted.
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Jul 15, 2019 13:31
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Elviscat posted:Do you have a Lithium Ion battery by any chance? Because that disconcerting starting issue is normal operation for them. No, it's the stock BMW battery. I can't read the labels without taking it out, but it was heavy last time I got it out. Slavvy posted:I'd suggest looking at the battery voltage while attempting cranking, I'd also try jump starting the battery when the problem appears and seeing what happens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvdykUKgSkw Here it is. You can see battery voltage drop to ~9V when I press the button then nothing - no start. Then I try again, voltage drops and surges up to 14.5V - good start. I'd appreciate tips regarding next steps.
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Jul 15, 2019 17:06
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The voltage dropping right down implies the relay and everything is working correctly and the starter just can't turn but is still drawing current. I would clean all the earth points, clean every single connection between the battery and the starter, if that doesn't work replace the relay. If none of that works, start staring at the starter suspiciously.
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Jul 17, 2019 02:08
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Slavvy posted:The voltage dropping right down implies the relay and everything is working correctly and the starter just can't turn but is still drawing current. I would clean all the earth points, clean every single connection between the battery and the starter, if that doesn't work replace the relay. If none of that works, start staring at the starter suspiciously. Another mechanic suggested recharging the battery and checking the amp draw, and seeing if it's hosed. I'll do that first since it's less work. I don't even know where the starter is hidden in this thing, but I will try it next.
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Jul 17, 2019 03:19
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I need to make a custom route that is displayable on an ios device. Is there anything out there that lets you make gpx files in some manner of mapping software and use them on ios? I tried google maps, but I ran out of waypoints
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Jul 17, 2019 17:07
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Changed my oil today and the old stuff reeked of petrol. Also I always put the old oil in what's left of the new bottle afterwards, and the fact it overflowed means I took more out than I put back in despite filling it to the right level on the bike. I think it's time I learned how to do a compression test, but that's effort.
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Jul 17, 2019 17:59
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Compression's as easy as doing a plug change. (So on some bikes it won't be easy. It was dead easy on the Rex.) Gain access to plug holes, unhook fuel line or disconnect fuel pump. Disconnect the coils, or at least take the plug wires off the plugs. Take one plug out. Screw the tester in. With the starter, turn the engine over as many times as your specs say to. (At least 4-5 cranks.) Compare to spec. If outside spec, curse/swear. Push the little release valve button to reset the gauge. Go to next plug. If you've got a bike that has more than one plug per cylinder, only do the test on one plug for each. If you don't already have a tester, you may want to remove a plug and check against the adapters that the gauge comes with. I had to return the first gauge I bought because it had adapters for big ol' car engine plugs with big ol' car engine threads, but not the little motorcycle plugs I have.
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Jul 17, 2019 18:44
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Finally got my new nut and washer for my front sprocket, and the threads on the output shaft seemed fine thankfully. I went ahead and used vibra-tite vc-3 on the threads too, so hopefully it'll stay on this time. Few questions on the pic below: 1) Did I bend the locking washer up enough? It was surprisingly hard to bend up, that's the best I could do with needle nose pliers, and I didn't want to break it. 2) The hoses on the left fit into a groove in the sprocket cover, and it's a huge pain the dick to get them in there with the shift linkage still installed on the bike. While playing with trying to get them in, one popped out from the bottom of the bike. Looking at it, I'm pretty sure it wasn't actually connected to anything, so maybe it's some kind of coolant overflow hose or something to with the CA emissions system on the bike? It's running fine with it not plugged into anything, so I'm pretty sure it just vents *something* to the bottom of the bike. I left the cover off for now and just zip tied the hoses together so they don't hit the chain, and that way I can check the nut and make sure it's still tight and everything is fine. 3) Can I spray some degreaser / engine cleaner on this area to clean it off? There was a lot of almost rubber like grime/grease in there, I got the bigger chunks off with a screwdriver. It seems like that would be fine, but I don't know if it's bad to get that on the output shaft. I'll be cleaning and lubing the chain after anyway so no worries about stripping the lube from the chain. 
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Jul 17, 2019 19:32
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 What should I do with this big, useless lump? 1976 GL1000 motor, won’t turn by hand. Seriously, no bad ideas here.
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Jul 17, 2019 19:38
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put your peanus in it
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Jul 17, 2019 19:39
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right arm posted:put your peanus in it
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Jul 17, 2019 19:44
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the ADVRider thread is the other way.
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Jul 17, 2019 19:50
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Coffee table.
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Jul 17, 2019 20:06
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Sell it for scrap?
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Jul 17, 2019 20:19
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Azza Bamboo posted:Changed my oil today and the old stuff reeked of petrol. Also I always put the old oil in what's left of the new bottle afterwards, and the fact it overflowed means I took more out than I put back in despite filling it to the right level on the bike. You don't have a compression problem, you've got a bike running insanely rich problem. What kind of bike is it? MomJeans420 posted:Finally got my new nut and washer for my front sprocket, and the threads on the output shaft seemed fine thankfully. I went ahead and used vibra-tite vc-3 on the threads too, so hopefully it'll stay on this time. Few questions on the pic below: You didn't bend that anywhere near enough, or at all really. You can't break it, use a pair of channel lock pliers or similar that has a wide footprint so you don't put a divot in it. Put one jaw on the nut and one on the part of the washer you want to bend and squash that bitch till it's positively mashed into the side of the nut, anything less is useless and won't stop anything. You want to cover as much of one of the nut flats as possible. Those hoses are the air box drain and tank vent and are meant to just dangle out the bottom. You can spray whatever you like on there, it'll be fine.
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Jul 17, 2019 20:33
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I got my lock washer down by putting a socket extender up against the edge (as in, with the axis pointing towards the nut) and smacking the back of it with a hammer. Worked pretty good. e/ vv that's what I tried at first, but I couldn't get a good angle. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 20:43
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Slavvy posted:You didn't bend that anywhere near enough, or at all really. You can't break it, use a pair of channel lock pliers or similar that has a wide footprint so you don't put a divot in it. Put one jaw on the nut and one on the part of the washer you want to bend and squash that bitch till it's positively mashed into the side of the nut, anything less is useless and won't stop anything You can also use an old flat screwdriver and a mallet to hammer it into place. Start with it flat so that you get underneath the lip of the washer, then once you've raised it up, turn the screwdriver 90 degrees and flatten it against the nut face from one side to the other
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Jul 17, 2019 20:45
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Slavvy posted:You don't have a compression problem, you've got a bike running insanely rich problem. What kind of bike is it? It's an Fz6 Fazer If it's running rich then the likely culprit is an electrical issue. I was thinking specifically that my piston rings were starting to wear, which would be how fuel's running to the sump.
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Jul 17, 2019 21:04
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I'm sure that that's the most normal thing ever, but man that installation is just crying out for a castellated nut and cotter pin.
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Jul 17, 2019 21:07
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A punch and hammer is the industry accepted practice for installing that sort of lock washer n'thing that you want that completely flat against one of the flats of the nut, as close to 90° as possible, get 2 flats if you can.
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Jul 17, 2019 21:09
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Phy posted:Compression's as easy as doing a plug change. I've been putting off changing the plugs because you have to lift the fuel tank up to take the airbox out then disconnect the radiator and pull that off before taking the leads out of the head and then use a special tool to reach into a hole about 4 inches deep to unscrew the plug, but you don't have direct access "over" the hole because of the frame so you're reaching in at a 90 degree angle before you get to the top of the tool that's in the hole. Every time I work on this bike I feel like the under seat exhaust was their design priority and everything else was fudged around that. I'll definitely check my plug thread diameter though. I never knew there was more than one in the consumer autos market. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 21:10
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Azza Bamboo posted:It's an Fz6 Fazer If the rings are worn you won't usually get petrol in the oil and a high oil level, you'll get oil pissing out the exhaust and a low oil level. If it were a carburetted bike I'd bet on it being a stuck open fuel tap or carb float, being efi it gets trickier. Has it got an oxygen sensor? Sometimes when those fail the default fueling is super rich for safety. Other stuff it could be is a stuck fuel pressure regulator, an injector sticking open, over-optimistic power commander mapping, faulty MAP sensor, possibly even just a blocked to gently caress intake tract. Most compression testers come with a variety of thread fittings as well as a rubber push-in fitting that works fine on most bikes. I may be remembering wrong but I can't recall any r6 derived bike where you need to pull the radiator to reach the plugs, usually it's just tank off, airbox off which are both super simple. Does it run or ride unusually at all? Any smoking?
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Jul 17, 2019 21:40
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Thanks for all the replies, I tried just jamming a screwdriver beneath it at first but that wasn't doing poo poo either. The problem with not being the one to take it off in the first place is I had no idea how it should look. I have some big vice grips that I'll test out when I get home, I'd like to avoid the whole suddenly losing power thing. Thankfully I was making a left turn at a street that dead ends into a T shape, but that would have been really lovely if I was making a left turn with oncoming cars. I just remembered my buddy left his gunsmithing punches and hammer at my house, I should open the case and see if any look big enough for this.
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Jul 17, 2019 21:54
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It doesn't have an oxygen or MAP sensor. AFAIK it just takes the throttle position and the engine rpm and crudely shoots to that using a formula in the ECU. It's all stock, no aftermarket commanders or anything. It's never run unusually. If I had to say something it'd be that I suspect a loss in power over the 2 years I've had it, or that I've just grown through it I'm not certain. I didn't dyno this or anything it just doesn't feel like it shoots off as hard when I twist it. It has always had a fuel smell I could never get to the bottom of, but no evident leaks or vapour clouds. The smell is usually after it has been parked for some time. An injector sticking open does sound like a line to investigate. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 21:57
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Azza Bamboo posted:It doesn't have an oxygen or MAP sensor. AFAIK it just takes the throttle position and the engine rpm and crudely shoots to that using a formula in the ECU. It's all stock, no aftermarket commanders or anything. Ok there's some things you can do here but none of them are easy or straightforward. I don't know if that bike specifically has them, but a lot of open-loop efi bikes have mixture screws on the throttlebodies, these could be worth investigating. To test the injectors, pull the rail out with the injectors still attached and connected to the wiring harness, turn the bike to on so the pump primes the pressure, then leave them pointing nose down into some plastic cups and see if anything leaks out. Generally efi bikes tend to run a shade lean from the factory so it's unusual that you're getting the opposite. Does it start ok when hot and cold? Do you know if it has any kind of cold start idle up system or anything? Valve clearances might be worth investigating too.
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Jul 17, 2019 23:23
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I know the bike has screws on the IACV that need balancing but I don't think there's anything for the mixture. What I have found is some posts on an obscure forum saying you can tweak the mixture through the bike's diagnostic screens. It's all about pressing weird button combinations with the two buttons on the display and then interpreting the weird letters on the 7 segment displays used for your speed. I didn't think my bike would turn out to be a tamagotchi.
Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 23:46
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Azza Bamboo posted:
If you look on fuelly.com, does yours have markedly different fuel economy from other ones? Perhaps that's just how it is. My (carbed bike) used oil always smelled a bit gas-like even though everything was fine. Used oil is marinated in all manner of combustion blowby. Perfectly tuned engines are still spewing out all manner of soot and crud. The internet, and this forum, is full of oil analysis ranging in their manner from Einstein angrily pondering quantum paradoxes to wine tasters finding supple, succulent notes of tar, rose petal and benzene. And it's pretty much always a non-issue. Perhaps the surplus oil you though you had was just the filter house not being drained.
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Jul 17, 2019 23:53
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The reason I've ignored the fuel smell from standing is because I assumed it was normal and getting 43mpg out of the machine, especially the way I ride it, seems about right. But there's no mistaking that when I took the oil out this time it smelled a lot like fuel and moreso than the last time.
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Jul 18, 2019 00:02
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Slavvy posted:Does it start ok when hot and cold? Do you know if it has any kind of cold start idle up system or anything? Valve clearances might be worth investigating too. Depends what you mean by hot and cold. Starting first thing in the morning to starting when it's been ridden the past few hours there's usually no issue. The only time there's ever a problem is if it's been incredibly rainy or wintry cold. Then it can sometimes take a real long blast of the starter or sometimes run into a second attempt. Other than that the starter's barely on for one second before the engine fires up. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 18, 2019 00:06
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Had my chain snap on me this morning and it only had about 500 miles on it. Any ideas what could have caused this? I'll upload pictures of it when I get home but I thought that it was a weird thing to happen with so little mileage.
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Jul 18, 2019 20:37
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Azza Bamboo posted:Depends what you mean by hot and cold. Starting first thing in the morning to starting when it's been ridden the past few hours there's usually no issue. The only time there's ever a problem is if it's been incredibly rainy or wintry cold. Then it can sometimes take a real long blast of the starter or sometimes run into a second attempt. Other than that the starter's barely on for one second before the engine fires up. Been thinking about this, try testing your coolant temp sensor as it's an easy thing to do and will make the bike run super rich. Fhistleb posted:Had my chain snap on me this morning and it only had about 500 miles on it. Any ideas what could have caused this? I'll upload pictures of it when I get home but I thought that it was a weird thing to happen with so little mileage. Too tight? Too loose? Idiot mechanic? 
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Jul 18, 2019 21:03
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Fhistleb posted:Had my chain snap on me this morning and it only had about 500 miles on it. Any ideas what could have caused this? I'll upload pictures of it when I get home but I thought that it was a weird thing to happen with so little mileage. How long have you had the sprockets it was on? Unrelated question: did it snap at the master link? Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 18, 2019 21:41
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