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jmistajay posted:Haha, that pic is in my Cosplanner as ref! (You and your friends rule) Your what now? Oh god I just lost several hours making lists and uploading reference photos for costumes I want to make but never actually will..  Seriously I had no idea this was a thing. I used to go to Cosplay.com to manage my costume ideas but it's pretty much a wasteland now, and it's been years since I actually made a costume. 
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Jun 9, 2019 01:03
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Slothass posted:I'm trying to make the Dark Helmet Safari hat from Spaceballs. if you have a Lowes around you, go to their hardware section, with the picture hangers and hooks, and look for 12 to 19 gauge wire. They have different flavors, but that stuff will do nicely. Should be Hillman brand, and sell for ~$10 a roll.
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Jun 9, 2019 04:12
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Will hot glue be strong enough to hold PVC to plastic? I'm making weapon holsters for my back and the plate will be plastic with the PVC acting as the holster and attached together. I have sanded flat spots on the PVC to increase the surface area too. Edit: both pieces will be painted black, I can easily hold off painting until gluing if that effects the bond. Rythe fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jun 10, 2019 |
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Jun 10, 2019 01:39
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Hot glue might work depending on how much weight is being applied. It also depends on what the other plastic actually is. If it is something where the anchor point will be hidden, a 2 part epoxy putty like JB Weld water might be a good choice. It can be sanded and painted after it cures.
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Jun 10, 2019 05:00
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If it’s going to flex or move even a little bit, hot glue will never be enough
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Jun 10, 2019 05:08
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Yeah its going to be subjected to bouncing and moving while holding about 3 lbs each. They are the baton holders from the Kick-rear end movie costume. The connection points will be hidden so JB weld might do the trick. Does the JB water weld hold up well on plastics?
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Jun 10, 2019 11:24
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Depending on the plastic you can also use the actual pvc bonder - it will fuse pieces together and is what is used for pvc pipes. It won't necessarily work on the other plastic though, depending on what it is.
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Jun 10, 2019 11:32
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I'll have to double check the base plate that I'm using but as far as I can tell it's just run off the mill, everyday plastic. Pretty much going to take apart a thin plastic container. I'll take a pucture when I get home. I was thinking something like this https://www.oatey.com/2371985/Product/Oatey-ABS-To-PVC-Transition-Green-Cement Rythe fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jun 10, 2019 |
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Jun 10, 2019 11:52
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Rythe posted:I'll have to double check the base plate that I'm using but as far as I can tell it's just run off the mill, everyday plastic. Pretty much going to take apart a thin plastic container. I'll take a pucture when I get home. when you’re “bonding” plastics to plastics, it’s actual critical to know which plastics you’re using, since the binding agent will melt the two mating pieces together. If the “run of the mill everyday plastic” you’re using isn’t ABS, that solvent won’t do anything. If you don’t know what kind of plastic it is and have no way of identifying it, epoxy is a safer bet.
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Jun 10, 2019 14:38
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If you do use hot glue, use gorilla hot glue. That poo poo is exponentially better than regular hot glue.
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Jun 10, 2019 16:27
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Thanks for the awesome advice, when I get home I'll identify the plastic so I can ensure my costume doesn't fall apart.
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Jun 10, 2019 16:55
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Sockser posted:when you’re “bonding” plastics to plastics, it’s actual critical to know which plastics you’re using, since the binding agent will melt the two mating pieces together. If the “run of the mill everyday plastic” you’re using isn’t ABS, that solvent won’t do anything. Yea, unfortunately there isn't really anything like 'everyday plastic', there are a lot of chemically different compositions that we use. For example, tupperware is often made of Polypropylene; using a normal PVC bonder won't actually work on it, although I think there are some specialty compounds that might work. You can identify your plastic if it has a recycling code on it, and see if there is a bonder for it and PVC. But if its a mystery and you already have a good piece you don't want to swap for another plastic, then one of the epoxies is probably best. It looks like JB weld also makes a dedicated plastic epoxy, so that's probably a good choice. I basically held a moped together with JB weld so I trust them.
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Jun 10, 2019 17:01
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Looks like it's a number 5 PP, which is a polypropylene plastic and I assume that is not ABS. Apparently PP is a bit of a pain to bond/ glue from what I'm reading but a good 2 part epoxy should do the trick if I'm not mistaken. If PP is a pain to bond I'll just buy some ABS sheets from Amazon or Harbor Freight because that seems easier to work with. Rythe fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jun 10, 2019 |
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Jun 10, 2019 20:59
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If e6000 won't attach your parts you aren't using enough of it.
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Jun 16, 2019 06:01
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So making costumes for dolls is just 1/12 cosplay, right? Does anybody know of any material similar to flocking powder for different fabric textures? Or any other way to finish plastics and hard materials to give them the appearance of being made out of cloth? I tend to work with plastics and other materials, but would really like them to feel as much like cloth as possible. Especially for things that would be made out of coarser and rougher fabrics.
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Jun 26, 2019 22:56
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Do you want them to actually "feel" like cloth, or do you want them to behave like cloth, or do you want them to look like cloth? What kind of plastic are you working with? There's hard and soft plastics. If you have the patience, plastic grocery bags can be woven into a fabric of sorts. With sharp blades, plastic soda bottles can be turned into a string of sorts.
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Jun 28, 2019 04:51
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One important difference between cosplay and doll-making is the distance that the work is viewed at. Cosplay is about making something look good at 3+ feet away, whereas doll-making presumably involves much more detailed observation. You might have some luck with the tabletop wargame minis crew in the traditional games subforum. More practically: the first step to making something that is not cloth look like cloth is to make it look like it behaves like cloth. Cloth bunches, wrinkles, and flows, and replicating that behavior will get you 90% of the way there without a single coat of paint. If a literal rock can be made to look like cloth, so can whatever plastic or clay you’re using. Next, you need to think about color and texture. Cloth is slightly fuzzy, so you want a very matte coating on it (unless you’re specifically trying to replicate a shiny fabric). The base can probably all be one straight pass with an airbrush. Texture is harder, and this is where the 3-foot rule comes in on cosplay: you don’t actually need to model or paint the texture of the weave since nobody is going to have their face jammed up against the surface to admire the detail work. So, I have no idea how to paint that kind of texture on. The finest detail I’ve seen was someone laboriously recreating the pattern of duct tape by hammering little dents into a very thin strip of epoxy clay. Weathering is the Fun Part that everyone skips, and that’s the part that actually sells the illusion that what you’ve made is a real object. Weathering adds wear, tear, and age to your object. Even objects intended to look like they’re brand new or carefully maintained should have some weathering. For cloth, any raised edges (hems, the tops of any felled seams, etc.) should be lighter in color to represent the fabric being rubbed against, and any deep cracks (joining seams, the undersides of any felled seams) should be darker. How you would go about accomplishing that on the scale you need, I don’t know. For props (again, seen from three feet away), getting the low parts involves smearing a bunch of paint over it and using a wet paper towel to wipe off the excess, and the high parts involves sweeping a very dry brush over them unevenly. This works great for large objects but I don’t think it’ll work for smaller ones.
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Jun 28, 2019 19:36
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Is it feasible to cut elastic and sew another piece into the cut to lengthen it? I can't take out the entire elastic and it's just a bit uncomfortable with the current length.
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Jul 4, 2019 01:09
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Can you cut it in the middle and sew the ends in place with an inch or however much in between them?
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Jul 4, 2019 05:28
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Yeah I want to sew about a inch of elastic between the cuts.
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Jul 4, 2019 12:14
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If it were me, I would just replace the entire band. Patching the existing elastic runs the risk of introducing an elastic that doesn't stretch or flex the same way as your existing band, I'd think? Could work and feel weird.
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Jul 4, 2019 13:44
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You can cut the elastic and add a section in there, but it's not really ideal; where you connect the two pieces it'll be thicker, and that becomes a point of weakness and failure in the band. Why can't you take out the current elastic and replace it? I'm guessing it isn't in a channel and is sew directly to the garment at some points? There might be a better option if you can give us more details. Edit: Oh I was going to recommend the sewing thread but you're already there with an answer to the above.
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Jul 4, 2019 13:56
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It's for an armor knee pad that is just a bit too small with the elastic band and is connected/riveted with a button clasp on the other end that I can't take apart. I was worried about introducing a weak point at the new elastic seams too.
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Jul 4, 2019 20:33
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Rythe posted:It's for an armor knee pad that is just a bit too small with the elastic band and is connected/riveted with a button clasp on the other end that I can't take apart. I was worried about introducing a weak point at the new elastic seams too. rather than sewing with a normal seam, why not overlap the ends of the elastic a couple inches on either side, then sew a lattice of stitching over the entire overlap? so if you need an extra inch, cut a 5 inch piece of the new elastic, bridge the gap and have 2" of double thickness elastic on each side with multiple stitch lines across the overlapping area (use a zig-zag stitch and a strong thread too)
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Jul 5, 2019 14:02
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Hello I always forget to post any updates to this thread! Happy to say Chrom won Best of Weekend at AnimeNext. I'm now working on Qifrey from Witch Hat Atelier for Otakon and decided to make my own boots from scratch because I'm an rear end in a top hat. (and to hopefully impress the judges, it's not an outwardly "fancy" cosplay so you gotta really do the details right)  
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Jul 8, 2019 04:48
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Are those turnsoles? Niiiice. Especially love the stuff on the bottom.
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Jul 8, 2019 16:15
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I hand-made a pair of shoes for the SCA just once, and after I was done I swore I would pay anyone any amount of money to never do it again. So you have my admiration on undertaking that, they came out really well!
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Jul 8, 2019 16:25
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Ashcans posted:I hand-made a pair of shoes for the SCA just once, and after I was done I swore I would pay anyone any amount of money to never do it again. So you have my admiration on undertaking that, they came out really well! I went to an intro to leatherworking (cutting, stamping, dye) class at Costume Academy (SF Bay Area Costumers Guild) and came away thinking "Wow, deep knowledge there, and I never want to do that again." Technologies with expensive materials + no undo make me sad.
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Jul 8, 2019 18:49
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Fatkraken posted:rather than sewing with a normal seam, why not overlap the ends of the elastic a couple inches on either side, then sew a lattice of stitching over the entire overlap? so if you need an extra inch, cut a 5 inch piece of the new elastic, bridge the gap and have 2" of double thickness elastic on each side with multiple stitch lines across the overlapping area (use a zig-zag stitch and a strong thread too) Thanks for the advice, this is what I did and everything came out great, the elastic stretches just fine and the seam is holding very nicely.
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Jul 9, 2019 00:00
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Are those turnsoles? Niiiice. Especially love the stuff on the bottom. Yes! And thank you--in the comic it's a magic glyph that lets them fly. I tooled it in so it won't wear right off the bottom. Ashcans posted:I hand-made a pair of shoes for the SCA just once, and after I was done I swore I would pay anyone any amount of money to never do it again. So you have my admiration on undertaking that, they came out really well! I didn't think it was too awful---there was a learning curve with things like the tunnel stitch but in the end it was mostly just regular sewing through tougher-than-usual materials. The worst part was wearing a soggy boot as it dried. Arsenic Lupin posted:I went to an intro to leatherworking (cutting, stamping, dye) class at Costume Academy (SF Bay Area Costumers Guild) and came away thinking "Wow, deep knowledge there, and I never want to do that again." Technologies with expensive materials + no undo make me sad. I think I'm so used to $12+ a yard spandex that it didn't feel too bad expense wise. It helped that I'm doing this as a duo, leather is a lot cheaper in big pieces. Today I finished up the handwork on his cloak-clasp. I've had this gold thread in my stash for years (someone's mother gave it to me) and never found the right excuse to learn goldwork until now. 
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Jul 9, 2019 00:36
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Goldaline posted:I think I'm so used to $12+ a yard spandex that it didn't feel too bad expense wise. It helped that I'm doing this as a duo, leather is a lot cheaper in big pieces. It's the "no undo" that gets me down, but I suppose with spandex, velvet, and chiffon there are also no take-backs. That's beautiful embroidery, too. Nice work on the contrasting textures.
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Jul 9, 2019 00:42
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The thing that killed me for making shoes was soaking and turning them, I probably hosed up in using heavier weight than needed but wrestling them through the turn was awful. I mean it would probably be easier subsequent times if you kept at it. But I didn't!
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Jul 9, 2019 04:05
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Attended AX this weekend dressed as: Resasuke  Slay the Spire Cultist Resasuke wasn't too bad, just a couple of props. I tried hot gluing magnets onto the wig and ears so that I didn't have to deal with a headband, but it was a massive pain that took several tries to get right and only lasted exactly as long as I needed it, the magnets ripped from the wig when I was taking it off. I might try sewing a pouch for the magnets into the wig next time. The Cultist was kind of bananas, first time working with PVC to make the wings, the head took awhile but turned out way, way better than I expected, and the scalloping all over the robe and wing covers took a goddamn eternity. Still, I was able to churn everything out just in time. Overall, I'm really happy with how stuff turned out! I was doing pretty obscure stuff, but still got a bunch of people that stopped me and said I was a rad dude.
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Jul 9, 2019 17:44
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Crossposting here because it's mother loving dragon con time https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3893613
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Jul 10, 2019 22:48
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Deviant posted:Crossposting here because poo poo, normally half the fun of conventions is sneaking booze in. I think I would die if you could drink openly. Getting blazed at Fanime during late night programming was pretty sweet, though. And Crunchyroll Expo is coming up soon. God bless California.  
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Jul 11, 2019 23:46
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Can anyone recommend a cheap-ish source of flexible hose of varying diameters? I need three or four different diameters, one of them ribbed: All the sources I'm finding at hardware stores are like $50 for 25-foot rolls, which is rather expensive and also way more than I actually need.
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Jul 16, 2019 05:18
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Would something like this do? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J7S39CW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had the same problem last year and bought like three different diameters of this before scrapping the costume
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Jul 16, 2019 06:39
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blastron posted:Can anyone recommend a cheap-ish source of flexible hose of varying diameters? I need three or four different diameters, one of them ribbed: Go to a junkyard and pull them out of old cars.
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Jul 16, 2019 07:10
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  Any chance anybody can identify what this strap material is made out of? Looks like leather, feels like a foam type product with stitching on the backside.
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Jul 16, 2019 23:31
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Rythe posted:
Some kind of faux leather, either vinyl or pleather. Any fabric store will have a section for weirdo textiles where you can find stuff that looks like leather but isn't, if you want more of it.
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Jul 16, 2019 23:59
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