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i feel less bad about the PO job my tuono had to convert the turns signals into integrated lights with the brake lights. the watsen design LEDs are sick though so no regret getting rid of it
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Jul 17, 2019 15:22
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Which reminds me - what's the hivemind opinion on those all-in-one butt splices (fnarr) with integrated heatshrink (...fnarr?)? I'm sort of torn on them because my instinct is always to use crimp bullet connectors or similar just in case I ever have to disassemble them, but the speed and convenience of just crimping once (and not having to deal with inevitably cutting the heatshrink wrong/forgetting to put it on in the first place) is pretty alluring.
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Jul 17, 2019 15:44
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Took the Rex home from my folks' garage last night, then rode it to work for the first time this year. Kept catching glimpses of my shadow and thinking "drat I look badass." What a fuckin' dork.
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Jul 17, 2019 16:47
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Nah I do that too whenever I ride past a building with big street-level floor-to-ceiling windows
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Jul 17, 2019 16:49
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Which reminds me - what's the hivemind opinion on those all-in-one butt splices (fnarr) with integrated heatshrink (...fnarr?)? I'm sort of torn on them because my instinct is always to use crimp bullet connectors or similar just in case I ever have to disassemble them, but the speed and convenience of just crimping once (and not having to deal with inevitably cutting the heatshrink wrong/forgetting to put it on in the first place) is pretty alluring. The ones with adhesive in them? I have a whole set, they're fantastic, the adhesive waterproofs the connection better than normal heat shrink alone, and strain relieves the wire, plus the crimps on mine seem to be better than the normal ones in el cheapo crimps. I have this set and it's absolutely the poo poo.
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Jul 17, 2019 19:44
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Which reminds me - what's the hivemind opinion on those all-in-one butt splices (fnarr) with integrated heatshrink (...fnarr?)? I'm sort of torn on them because my instinct is always to use crimp bullet connectors or similar just in case I ever have to disassemble them, but the speed and convenience of just crimping once (and not having to deal with inevitably cutting the heatshrink wrong/forgetting to put it on in the first place) is pretty alluring. They are terrible and hideous and only terrible hideous people use them, sorry. Elviscat posted:The ones with adhesive in them? I have a whole set, they're fantastic, the adhesive waterproofs the connection better than normal heat shrink alone, and strain relieves the wire, plus the crimps on mine seem to be better than the normal ones in el cheapo crimps. Sorry.
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Jul 17, 2019 20:38
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everyone always tries to find some special easy way around electrical work but there are only two correct ways to do it: - western union splice, soldered and sealed with heat-shrink - crimped connector of your choice, crimped with the right tool and the proper gauge of hardware everything else is either a gimmick or a waste of time or money e: i don't see a problem with the hot glue ones posted above but I would prefer a soldered splice there because it's smaller and not really any more time-consuming Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 20:41
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I get that you love your 120 year old wire joining method, but solder connections are not appropriate for high-vibration applications, and making a western union splice on a motorcycle is ridiculous, I'd look at that like I'd look at the use of wirenuts, and I'm proficient at both soldering and making Western Union splices. Seriously did you retire from wiring houses in the 1940s and you need an application for your Westinghouse solder pot from the 1800s? RE: Slavvy: at least I don't use those "cold" solder butt splices. I'm going to use some of the heat shrink butt splices on my KTM just to trigger you.
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Jul 17, 2019 23:36
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Elviscat posted:solder connections are not appropriate for high-vibration applications,  https://nepp.nasa.gov/docuploads/06AA01BA-FC7E-4094-AE829CE371A7B05D/NASA-STD-8739.3.pdf e: oops, meant NASA-STD-8739.4, not .3. Section 19.7. https://standards.nasa.gov/file/2615/download?token=2TwNY-Aq Elviscat posted:making a western union splice on a motorcycle is ridiculous, I'd look at that like I'd look at the use of wirenuts why? it's permanent, waterproof (when sealed), inline, and takes up barely more volume than the wire itself. i mean if you can give me a genuine reason they shouldn't be used i'm happy to consider all data but "it's old" isn't a good one Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 23:50
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I took out the air filter and REMOVED SIX RANDOM SCREWS AND NUTS RATTLING AROUND IN THE AIRBOX Not even like screws from the bike, just household construction and mechanical screws. What the flipping hell did the PO do to this bike??  I mean the snorkel opens into the storage compartment so I’m praying he just had a bag of random stuff in there that broke because otherwise....
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Jul 18, 2019 00:14
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paging gorson to post his video of the swingarm full of acorns
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Jul 18, 2019 00:19
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Sagebrush posted:
Not acceptable in terrestrial aircraft . Section 11-13. By omission, that section details how to make an appropriate splice, and does not list soldering as a method. It's not that I think your method is inadequate, since the Western Union splice was developed for mid-air high strain applications, and the issue with solder is its low mechanical strength under tension or vibration, it just takes a special kind of person to sit there laboriously twisting several inches of wire together, when crimps and crimp connectors exist, it's deliberately anachronistic.
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Jul 18, 2019 00:51
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Elviscat posted:it just takes a special kind of person hello, yes
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Jul 18, 2019 01:10
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You can't mix old and new tech grandpa, that's like steampunk wankery, half lap, double wrap, fabric tape, for mechanical strength, self amalgamating tape for waterproofing, and vinyl on top for insulation and protection for the SA tape or go home.
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Jul 18, 2019 01:53
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You're reminding me of the sm610 I had with 6 butt connectors next to each other under the seat. I bought a waterproof 6-pin connector and fixed that poo poo asap.
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Jul 18, 2019 02:49
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Martytoof posted:I took out the air filter and REMOVED SIX RANDOM SCREWS AND NUTS RATTLING AROUND IN THE AIRBOX
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Jul 18, 2019 03:22
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Where do you guys throw all your extras from maintenance for safekeeping then? Surely you don't throw them away? I have a box of watertight automotive connectors for multi-splice connections, two butts is my limit.
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Jul 18, 2019 03:25
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Related question, is there an "approved" way to do splices for different gauge wires? I need to convert a cigarette lighter plug to an SAE connector. The wiring feeding the cigarette plug is tiny - like 24 gauge - and my SAE pigtails are 18 gauge. I know I could just buy an adapter but that's just more wiring and bullshit hanging off the bike. I know it's a fire hazard if there's enough current running, but this is a very low draw (<2A) application. I didn't have any butt connectors that would actually grab and hold the small poo poo while still fitting the 18 gauge, so for a test fitting and to make sure things worked, I soldered each leg + individually shrink wrapped, then shrink wrapped again over the whole thing. I need to go back in and take out a bunch of slack in the wire, so if there's a better way to do things when I put it all back together, I'd like to know. If it matters, this is running to a small water pump that feeds a cooling vest. The wiring will be routed on the outside of the bike, I'd rather not have butt connectors/Posi-Tap splices/etc. banging around. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 18, 2019 03:30
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Splice these into both your vest and bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7VSRBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6C.lDbZHZVGE0 Or use these and pot the screw connections in epoxy. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 18, 2019 05:37
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Elviscat posted:Where do you guys throw all your extras from maintenance for safekeeping then? Surely you don't throw them away? I've meticulously harvested several wiring harnesses for wire, got meters of the stuff in every color combination imaginable. And a big box of all the connectors, super useful for crash repairs, projects etc.
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Jul 18, 2019 07:06
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I did a bunch of WU splices on my zzr because it honestly didn't occur to me to do anything else. If I need to rejoin a wire in future I'll just go with crimped bullet connectors, it's far less hassle.
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Jul 18, 2019 07:34
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Slavvy posted:I've meticulously harvested several wiring harnesses for wire, got meters of the stuff in every color combination imaginable. And a big box of all the connectors, super useful for crash repairs, projects etc. That must be an awful large airbox if you can fit all that in!
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Jul 18, 2019 08:03
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Jazzzzz posted:Related question, is there an "approved" way to do splices for different gauge wires? I need to convert a cigarette lighter plug to an SAE connector. The wiring feeding the cigarette plug is tiny - like 24 gauge - and my SAE pigtails are 18 gauge. I know I could just buy an adapter but that's just more wiring and bullshit hanging off the bike. In the past I typically just soldiered them together and either covered them with heat shrink tubes or electrical tape if I forgot to put a tube on before I started, which was frequent. As far as "approved", not sure. I am moving into the future though. I just ordered a box of various crimp connectors.
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Jul 18, 2019 12:11
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I helped a coworker check the valves on his 848, found sand in the airbox. Like, on the engine-side of the air filter in the airbox. He'd had it for a year or so at that point, put a bunch of miles on it. Mmmmmm, grindy!
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Jul 18, 2019 14:17
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Thank you, Tropical Storm Barry. Thanks a ton. Yeah, that's not good.   Tried cleaning off the corrosion with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush; no dice. The indicator lights and backlighting still work, but the dials and LCDs are dead. Guess I'm flying blind for a while.
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Jul 18, 2019 14:25
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Sagebrush posted:paging gorson to post his video of the swingarm full of acorns  Mother Nature is a mad scientist.
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Jul 18, 2019 14:43
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I started wrapping panels.  I’m really at a loss on how to do the holes in these side panels. If I stretch the vinyl through them, and then cut the top of the ‘cone’ off and roll it back onto the inside seems to work. But then you do the next one, and apply some heat, and the one you did before shrivels up and stops sticking. Might be a job for a professional.
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Jul 18, 2019 23:38
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I did those by slicing an X into the center of the hole, then folding the "tabs" back while stretching them with a heat gun. Worked reasonably well.
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Jul 19, 2019 01:24
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Sagebrush posted:I did those by slicing an X into the center of the hole, then folding the "tabs" back while stretching them with a heat gun. Worked reasonably well. Every time I’ve done an X it’s resulted in the corner being visible on the outside. Will practice more tonight.
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Jul 19, 2019 07:02
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First oil change on the Duke 390. Surprisingly easy. Only two filter screens and one cartridge filter. Motorex comes in the weirdest bottles ever but I suppose they were pretty easy to pour into the comically undersized fill hole.
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Jul 19, 2019 23:51
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Is that the one where the nozzle pulls out to make a little spout? Love that feature, so much better than trying to juggle a funnel.
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Jul 20, 2019 07:13
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Renaissance Robot posted:Is that the one where the nozzle pulls out to make a little spout? Love that feature, so much better than trying to juggle a funnel. That’s the one, but I still used a funnel because the hole in the crankcase is so tiny
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Jul 20, 2019 15:38
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Dagen H posted:Thank you, Tropical Storm Barry. Thanks a ton. Oh man that sucks. The engine didn’t take on any water? Looks from that shot that the left side of the head may be submerged?
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Jul 20, 2019 15:48
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Started and ran fine (albeit quite smoky for a minute or so). Broken LF indicator (which had been broken and patched before, nbd) and broken clutch lever. I now park on a different spot in my driveway, and always on the centerstand when not on pavement.
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Jul 20, 2019 16:10
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all the wiring i've ever done in my drz has been cut wire and solder directly and apply heat shrink it has been looped, crashed, thrown into a tree, gone max speed for miles in sand, low sided etc etc them shits still light up
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Jul 20, 2019 18:17
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I accidentally tore a wire off my turn signal when it got tangled up in a screw which I didn't notice  But I almost finished the OEM tail reinstallation. Put on the stock lic. plate light. Waiting for my chain so I can do sprockets and chain at the same time. Also ordered a new-used front rim to replace mine since I don't like the look of the bent lip, so I'm thinking of just waiting with everything until it shows up since I want to take the rear off and have a new tire fitted anyway. I'd just take all three rims in, get them to swap the new-ish tire on the front to my new rim, and put a new rear on, then at that point I'd do the chain and sprockets. Trying to think of what will be the least work for me, since I have to take at least one wheel off anyway.
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Jul 21, 2019 00:20
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 Finally replaced the leaky petcock and rotted fuel lines on the Hawk GT today! I had left it to rot for the last 1.5 months and fully expected it to need a carb clean and the battery charged. However, I turned the key and pressed the button and... It fired right up first try!!! So nice to ride this hawk again.
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Jul 21, 2019 22:52
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Coydog posted:It fired right up first try!!! honda.txt
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Jul 21, 2019 23:22
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I finally got a new battery for the 1978 Suzuki GS750. It starts and runs....kind of. #4 carb just dumps gas out of its overflow, so I assume the float is stuck. I'm guessing a combination of extended periods of sitting around and running on E10 gas has gunked it up.
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Jul 22, 2019 13:35
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nadmonk posted:I finally got a new battery for the 1978 Suzuki GS750. It starts and runs....kind of. So I got bored this morning and got the carbs off the Suzuki. I need some insight on this. The bowls came off the Mikuni without issues. But this is what I found in one of the bowls:   The overflow tube that has that weird rubber/plastic thing on it is the bowl that just dumps gas. It is pretty flexible:  I do also see that the float in that bowl will stick, but only all the way in the up position. At the bottom of its movement it seems to move freely and with the same "springiness" as the other floats. Does anyone have any idea what that piece is or why it would be on the overflow tube?
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Jul 22, 2019 14:45
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