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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Piggybacking off of this, aside from trawling through online reviews, does anyone here have an opinion on the best brands/models of toilet out there currently? The last one I bought was some American Standard that could chug a bucket of golfballs and never clogged, so I'm leaning towards that but just wanted to cover my bases. I'm partial to the Gerber Avalanche.
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# ? Jul 17, 2019 21:33 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 05:41 |
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Motronic posted:Also: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Gel-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-For/3695260 I keep forgetting about this stuff. I use a 1-gal wet-vac to clear it out, then stuff paper towels in it. Granted, this is after a thorough cleaning & at least five flushes. BubbaGrace posted:I'm partial to the Gerber Avalanche. That toilet looks awesome. Too bad I have to get a round bowl. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jul 18, 2019 |
# ? Jul 18, 2019 02:10 |
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PainterofCrap posted:
Why do you have to get a round bowl?
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# ? Jul 18, 2019 03:55 |
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PainterofCrap posted:I keep forgetting about this stuff. The Avalanche comes in both round and elongated
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# ? Jul 18, 2019 05:29 |
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SpartanIvy posted:Why do you have to get a round bowl? Tight on space, probably. My master bath has <1 inch clearance between the door swing and the edge of the bowl.
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# ? Jul 18, 2019 22:24 |
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Nevets posted:Tight on space, probably. My master bath has <1 inch clearance between the door swing and the edge of the bowl. Ah yeah I didn't think about that situation. My bathroom is tiny as well but even so there's enough clearance to stick an elongated toilet in it I think. It's on my eventual Todo list.
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# ? Jul 18, 2019 23:00 |
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I've got another question for you guys: I picked up this water filter system for the kitchen sink. I really dont want to use the saddle valve and tap into the sink drain for the waste water connection. Instead I was thinking of one of these so tie it in with the dishwasher drain line into the disposal. Also, I just have a high loop in the dishwasher disposal line. It doesn't look like we require an air gap in PA. Anyone have any firsthand knowledge of the code here?
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 03:20 |
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PA uses IPC 2009. IPC itself has no requirement for an airgap on a dishwasher, but it is possible a state or local amendment has been made.
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 04:24 |
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SpartanIvy posted:Why do you have to get a round bowl? Tiny-rear end bathroom BubbaGrace posted:The Avalanche comes in both round and elongated Good goddamn, so they do! It's either going to be one of these, or a Toto Drake II. Probably the Gerber; it lists at least $100 less - but we'll see what the local distributor says tomorrow. I am so done with the current throne. Thank you! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jul 19, 2019 |
# ? Jul 19, 2019 05:15 |
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The Drake is a very good toliet, I just don't think it's worth the extra cost.
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 05:25 |
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Sorry for the double post and interrupting DIY questions but I just have to share this Handy Andy hack job. Not my picture but this may be the worst thing I've ever seen.
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 06:11 |
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BubbaGrace posted:Sorry for the double post and interrupting DIY questions but I just have to share this Handy Andy hack job. Not my picture but this may be the worst thing I've ever seen. Everything about this is mind blowingly bad. The pex drain line is an especially big
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 06:28 |
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BubbaGrace posted:Sorry for the double post and interrupting DIY questions but I just have to share this Handy Andy hack job. Not my picture but this may be the worst thing I've ever seen. This can’t be real
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 08:58 |
So where does that drain line go to? I really wanna see the other end.
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 17:03 |
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Dumps into the crawlspace is my guess
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 17:11 |
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Bad Munki posted:So where does that drain line go to? I really wanna see the other end. I also would love to know. Picture was shared in a plumbing group a few days ago. I really want to believe that it's bullshit, but I've seen some things during my time and I don't see any kind of stub out for a waste arm.
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# ? Jul 19, 2019 20:23 |
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I’m trying to replace the mixing valve in my shower and I’m too stupid to figure out how to take the handle off to get to the valve. It has a set screw in the bottom that I’ve completely removed at this point. The whole thing feels loose and has a lot of play and I’ve pulled as hard as I’m comfortable doing and it won’t bulge. Here’s some pictures. Any ideas how to get this thing off? Edit: I should probably ask - the reason I’m replacing the valve is because I’m pretty sure it’s back flowing cold water into the hot. Is this likely and will just replacing the internals fix it? fankey fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jul 21, 2019 |
# ? Jul 21, 2019 22:12 |
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There is a hex set screw inside the hole in your second photo.
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# ? Jul 21, 2019 22:50 |
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BubbaGrace posted:There is a hex set screw inside the hole in your second photo. I’ve already removed the set screw from the small hole. As far as I can tell there’s nothing in the larger hole. Here’s a picture with flash. Edit: I stand corrected - the actual set screw was behind the first one I removed. Thanks for making me look again - I don’t think I would have ever thought that was the case. What’s the reasoning behind the dual screws? fankey fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jul 21, 2019 |
# ? Jul 21, 2019 23:18 |
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My toilet is making what the internet tells me might be ghost flushes, or phantom flushes. I can hear a slow trickle and every minute or so it'll refill itself. I found a seal had come off - this yellow one in the picture - and when I put it back on the problem stops. Until someone flushes, and then the seal comes off. I know I can fix this in a pretty permanent way with super glue, but I don't like using super glue in places where I don't know what I'm doing, and I definitely don't know what I'm doing when it comes to plumbing. Thoughts?
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# ? Jul 22, 2019 05:49 |
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jackpot posted:My toilet is making what the internet tells me might be ghost flushes, or phantom flushes. I can hear a slow trickle and every minute or so it'll refill itself. I found a seal had come off - this yellow one in the picture - and when I put it back on the problem stops. Until someone flushes, and then the seal comes off. I know I can fix this in a pretty permanent way with super glue, but I don't like using super glue in places where I don't know what I'm doing, and I definitely don't know what I'm doing when it comes to plumbing. Thoughts? Don't super glue it or you will end up replacing that whole cylinder. All you need is a new gasket. They are like $3-5 USD. The yellow thing at the top has 2 slots to release it. Turn it until you find them, but don't go hog wild or you could break it. Once you have that off the cylinder will come straight off. Replace gasket and reassemble. EDIT: This is much easier to make sense of once you see in action. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-oVbeFsXhI PS gently caress Kohler BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jul 22, 2019 |
# ? Jul 22, 2019 06:21 |
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Thanks, that did it. 👍🏻 The whole piece was so flimsy and plasticky that I thought it might be meant to be replaced all at once, that’s why superglue felt like a possibility.
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# ? Jul 23, 2019 01:00 |
Anyone aware of a type of clip for 1/2" pex that would just slip onto the top edge of a standard 2xsomething ceiling joist? I've running some water line through a finished ceiling for a new exterior hose bib, and that all went well and good, but I wasn't able to anchor the hose in that space yet and when the automatic timer I have outside on that new supply turns on and off, it create a fairly strong hit of water hammer, so I need to get the hose locked down. There are a few retrofitted recessed lights along the path where I can pop the cans out and reach up into the ceiling, but that's only a 4" hole, and there's a duct not far above that, so getting in there to drive a nail clip or even screw in is gonna be difficult. I have to imagine someone has invented a clip that has some barbed jaws or something to slip down onto the top of a typical ceiling joist, and then clip the hose in place on top of that, or something vaguely similar, or at least another solution for this sort of situation. Otherwise, I'll be up there with a stubby screwdriver fumbling around, but that's gonna be a lot of finicky work I'd rather avoid.
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# ? Jul 23, 2019 16:56 |
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None that I've ever seen. You could get a flexible screwdriver extension that would at least mean you don't need to use a stubby driver, so you could hold things in place with your left while applying the torque with your right. Double sided tape or similar would also make it easier to position the clips ahead of screwing them down.
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# ? Jul 23, 2019 19:04 |
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Some guy on this forum cut the tops off his engineered ceiling joists to sink his bath tub (its ok, he's an
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# ? Jul 23, 2019 20:06 |
This feature isn't for though
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# ? Jul 23, 2019 20:19 |
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Edit: this was a lame post
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 23, 2019 |
# ? Jul 23, 2019 20:23 |
I can probably make these work. They wrap all the way around the pipe, so they’ll stay in place during install, and the material is thick enough they’ll hold the screws in place while I get them started. I always keep torx self tapping screws on hand so that should make driving them easy enough. Not quite the ideal I was hoping for, but I think it’ll work. The actual clip portion is flexible enough that I can pop it on with one hand.
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# ? Jul 23, 2019 22:50 |
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Whenever I need something unusual like that, I browse free samples on Essentra and see if they have something that might work. They're pretty generous with samples and sometimes give you enough to finish a one-off projects. I see a bunch of cable clips you probably could have used if you didn't have anything.fankey posted:I’ve already removed the set screw from the small hole. As far as I can tell there’s nothing in the larger hole. Here’s a picture with flash.
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# ? Jul 27, 2019 07:16 |
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I replaced my bathroom toilet seat today after being fed up of the old wonky cracking one. That went without issue after figuring out that it was a top install type. What was an issue though was when I was shopping. While I was at the hardware store looking for a replacement seat, someone else came up and out of a large bag pulled out their presumably original grossly stained toilet seat to compare sizes. Placing them on the display seats to compare sizes. COME ON THERE WERE PEE CRYSTALS ON THE THING. GROSS DUDE. JUST GROSS.
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# ? Jul 28, 2019 09:49 |
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Anyone know much about wells? We just bought a piece of waterfront property, and there's an old sand point well head there. Right now it's just a galvanized pipe sticking out of the ground. Dropped a weighted string down it today, and there's ~10ft of water in it, and it's ~25 feet deep. There is a bit of rust on the inside of the pipe, and it's likely been left uncapped for 15 years or so. Any issues with hooking a pump up to it to use it for landscaping irrigation and the like? There's city water available for when we build the house, so it won't have to be potable.
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# ? Jul 29, 2019 01:50 |
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https://i.imgur.com/nIdOTml.gifv
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# ? Jul 29, 2019 03:20 |
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Okay, got another one. Unrelated to my lovely redneck misting system. I bought a disposal for our kitchen, and it comes with a little black piece of pipe, like so: So the question is, do I install it like in that image? Do I give it it's own P trap like this: Do I do something completely different?
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# ? Jul 30, 2019 03:02 |
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Okay, got another one. Unrelated to my lovely redneck misting system. So think about the role of a P trap. It uses water as a plug to keep sewer gases backing up. If the drain of your garbage disposal slopes down to the other sink as shown, the single P trap will do that job fine. The only situation I can think of is if you had some wonky elevation issue with the other drain pipe.
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# ? Jul 30, 2019 03:42 |
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Blindeye posted:So think about the role of a P trap. It uses water as a plug to keep sewer gases backing up. If the drain of your garbage disposal slopes down to the other sink as shown, the single P trap will do that job fine. The only situation I can think of is if you had some wonky elevation issue with the other drain pipe. Yeah this. Either of the solutions you posted are fine because in both cases there's a trap between the sinks and the sewer, just in one photo the sinks have a trap each, and in the other photo they share one.
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# ? Jul 30, 2019 14:44 |
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Synthbuttrange posted:I replaced my bathroom toilet seat today after being fed up of the old wonky cracking one. Oh hey, I’m going to ask a question so as not to be that guy. I’ve got a loo seat with a broken quick detach (the button press bit), and while it’s no issue to sit on somehow our guests manage to fling the thing off the post regularly. Time to replace I think. I’ve got no idea of the make of the loo, and my googling hasn’t helped with it. Here’s a picture of the stamps inside the tank, I assume the stamped-in numbers are the relevant ones? I also have the numbers in the lid but they’re not so clear. Given London plumbing prices I’d rather at least identify the make of seat to order myself before surrendering to the professionals.
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# ? Jul 31, 2019 16:32 |
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Vindolanda posted:Oh hey, I’m going to ask a question so as not to be that guy. I’ve got a loo seat with a broken quick detach (the button press bit), and while it’s no issue to sit on somehow our guests manage to fling the thing off the post regularly. Time to replace I think. I’ve got no idea of the make of the loo, and my googling hasn’t helped with it. Here’s a picture of the stamps inside the tank, I assume the stamped-in numbers are the relevant ones? I also have the numbers in the lid but they’re not so clear. Unless the UK has some weird toilets, the seats are pretty much standard. There's the regular round shape, and elongated (oval). You don't really need to get a manufacturer specific one, just go to the hardware store and pick one. You are dramatically overthinking this.
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# ? Aug 1, 2019 00:05 |
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devicenull posted:Unless the UK has some weird toilets, the seats are pretty much standard. There's the regular round shape, and elongated (oval). You don't really need to get a manufacturer specific one, just go to the hardware store and pick one. You are dramatically overthinking this. Dramatically? Wouldn’t want to do that. It doesn’t look round or oval - I’d say more of a rectangular sort of thing although I’m no geometry whiz. Given the “I live in London” thing I’d rather be able to order something, and presumably there’s some reason for the serial numbers.
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# ? Aug 1, 2019 07:27 |
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why does your toilet seat have a quick detach? Do you take it off often? Also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Premier-Square-Soft-Close-Toilet-Seat/dp/B00CHF2HU2
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# ? Aug 1, 2019 15:29 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 05:41 |
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JEEVES420 posted:why does your toilet seat have a quick detach? Do you take it off often? I think it’s a tactical thing, or maybe for an optional ejector mechanism.
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# ? Aug 1, 2019 19:06 |