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MeinPanzer posted:Two paint questions: AP makes these too. I got a set of the 4 you mentioned plus a bunch of colors for like $25.
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Jul 20, 2019 15:21
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Beerdeer posted:AP makes these too. I got a set of the 4 you mentioned plus a bunch of colors for like $25. AP washes are my favorite. I'm working on a model now that uses Strong, Soft, Dark, Red, Blue, and Purple tone.
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Jul 20, 2019 15:43
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I feel crazy saying this but I actually wish AP washes came in the pots. I've seen all the horror photo's of spilled Nuln Oil and Aggrax Earthshade, but at the end of the day being able to dip my brush in and use EXACTLY how much wash I need is really nice. That said, AP has some great washes, all their color tones are fantastic imo.
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Jul 20, 2019 15:46
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The Jumpoff posted:I feel crazy saying this but I actually wish AP washes came in the pots. I've seen all the horror photo's of spilled Nuln Oil and Aggrax Earthshade, but at the end of the day being able to dip my brush in and use EXACTLY how much wash I need is really nice. I vastly prefer the dropper bottles. One spilled pot could easily offset everything I have wasted on a palette, and I love the level of control. For example a 1:1:2 ratio of AP Blue, Dark, and Vallejo Flow Improver makes for a really nice shading wash on gray. It's how I did my assassins.  The Contrast paints are also seeing some use for me. The red on the knife is a single coat of Contrast BA red over my bone technique.
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Jul 20, 2019 15:54
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MeinPanzer posted:It could be, but I ordered a bunch of paints from different manufacturers from two different suppliers all at once, and only the VGC paints are doing this. I've had a few VMC and vgc colours go solid in their bottles. Yellow, dark blue and white are the ones that come to mind.
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Jul 20, 2019 17:00
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:AP washes are my favorite. I'm working on a model now that uses Strong, Soft, Dark, Red, Blue, and Purple tone. OK great, thanks for the advice. I'll pick some AP Red Tone, Blue Tone, and Green tone. quote:I've had a few VMC and vgc colours go solid in their bottles. Yellow, dark blue and white are the ones that come to mind. I've had paints get old and dry out before, but this is different -- it's like the paint just constantly separates into watery pigment at the top and a clump of paint at the bottom, and when the latter comes out isn't really any thicker than the normal paint in other bottles.
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Jul 20, 2019 19:24
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 I feel like my painting abilities have gotten a lot better over the course of the last six months, excited to see where I'm at in a year. Particularly proud of the necromancer. Also, for other beginners like me, spending the $20 on a fancier brush vs the citadel brushes was like the difference between night and day. Doorknob Slobber fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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Jul 20, 2019 19:44
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What is a good way of painting "Space Marine Librarian Blue"?
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Jul 20, 2019 22:40
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Professor Shark posted:What is a good way of painting "Space Marine Librarian Blue"? I plan on doing it with a base coat of a 1:6 ratio of VMA Silver to Liquitex Blue Ink, edge highlighted in silver, and then washed twice in AP Blue Tone.
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Jul 20, 2019 23:18
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MeinPanzer posted:OK great, thanks for the advice. I'll pick some AP Red Tone, Blue Tone, and Green tone. Yeah that's what happens with some of mine. Browns as well now that I think of it. You get wash-like consistency fluid first before the paint comes out. I think it's something to do with specific colours and pigments.
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Jul 20, 2019 23:23
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Professor Shark posted:What is a good way of painting "Space Marine Librarian Blue"? I did the standard Kantor Blue base coat with a Nuln Oil recess shade, followed by an edge highlight of Alaitoc Blue and then an extra thin highlight of Hoeth Blue. Looks pretty good.
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Jul 21, 2019 00:32
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Finished my first executioner. Way better looking model than the normal repulsor.   
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Jul 21, 2019 00:46
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Booley posted:Finished my first executioner. Way better looking model than the normal repulsor. This is unbelievably fantastic, dang. That said, something about the transfer on the back door strikes me as incongruent with the rest of the model. Everything else is just brutal blacks and yellows, and that transfer has a bunch of blue-greys that aren't present anywhere else and kind of stick out from the rest of the model.
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Jul 21, 2019 01:28
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Anyone have any experience shading either GSW or Turbo Dork color shift paints? I'm looking to do some tzeentch chaos warriors using a blue-to-purple color shift, but would still like to add a minimal shadow to the recesses. Would a thin recess wash of glossy nuln oil kill the color shift? If anyone has any images of this, would love to see them. My googlefu is pretty weak.
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Jul 21, 2019 05:58
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I plan on doing it with a base coat of a 1:6 ratio of VMA Silver to Liquitex Blue Ink, edge highlighted in silver, and then washed twice in AP Blue Tone. This sounds cool, but I'm not sure it would go with the rest of my army (I'm trying to have a "vintage" 40K theme, aka 1990's) Gunder posted:I did the standard Kantor Blue base coat with a Nuln Oil recess shade, followed by an edge highlight of Alaitoc Blue and then an extra thin highlight of Hoeth Blue. Looks pretty good. This sounds like more of my thing- do you have any pictures?
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Jul 21, 2019 10:42
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Professor Shark posted:This sounds cool, but I'm not sure it would go with the rest of my army (I'm trying to have a "vintage" 40K theme, aka 1990's) If you have the Citadel paint app on your phone look up crimson fists power armour (same colour as librarians), there's two methods on there, one using contrast and the other standard paints.
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Jul 21, 2019 17:21
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 Ringwraith on his horsey and the poor dismounted version
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Jul 21, 2019 21:22
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Crossposting because chipping medium is the most fun Harkano posted:K-K-K-Knights!
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Jul 21, 2019 23:48
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Alokgen posted:Anyone have any experience shading either GSW or Turbo Dork color shift paints? I'm looking to do some tzeentch chaos warriors using a blue-to-purple color shift, but would still like to add a minimal shadow to the recesses. Would a thin recess wash of glossy nuln oil kill the color shift? Shading will effect the colorshift. Your best bet may be to use oils for recess shading as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0xGqZ4EsRw
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Jul 22, 2019 00:09
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First pass on Guilliman is almost done. I used Grey Seer primer for the undercoat, followed by Ultramarines Blue Contrast for the armour, and a gold sharpie for the gold trim (with some Liberator Gold which colour matches well for bits that were harder to reach.) Face is Guilliman Flesh contrast with Ork Flesh contrast on the laurel wreath. Still have to do the gun and the base. The contrast paint + sharpie has saved me so much time. I think it's taken a combined total of about 1.5 hours to get to this point. Edit: Sword is Iyanden Yellow contrast with Gryph-Hound Orange contrast on the flames. Hair is Nazdreg Yellow. 
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Jul 22, 2019 00:28
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That's a mighty fine rowbooat.
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Jul 22, 2019 01:00
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:If you have the Citadel paint app on your phone look up crimson fists power armour (same colour as librarians), there's two methods on there, one using contrast and the other standard paints. I checked out the app and wasn't a huge fan of the CF scheme. I went on encycolorpedia.com and found that the complementary color for Jokaero Orange (#ee3823, which looks a bit darker than what I have, probably due to the white undercoat?) is Cyan, which doesn't quite match up with the Ultramarine color scheme.   I did see what they call Optical Blue, which seems closer:   (Marine added for comparison) I want my Librarians to look good next to the rest of my army (Blue-White, Orange pauldrons) and would probably use the same Blue color for an Imperial Guard auxiliary. Thoughts and suggestions? Would Optical Blue work for Librarians and/or as a complementary color? Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Jul 22, 2019 |
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Jul 22, 2019 13:00
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At this point I would paint up a test model and see how it goes.
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Jul 22, 2019 13:14
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Gunder posted:First pass on Guilliman is almost done. I used Grey Seer primer for the undercoat, followed by Ultramarines Blue Contrast for the armour, and a gold sharpie for the gold trim (with some Liberator Gold which colour matches well for bits that were harder to reach.) Face is Guilliman Flesh contrast with Ork Flesh contrast on the laurel wreath. Still have to do the gun and the base. The contrast paint + sharpie has saved me so much time. I think it's taken a combined total of about 1.5 hours to get to this point. That looks really nice! I'm impressed by what Contrast can do in short amounts of time. Also the gold Sharpie technique seems smart for a model with this type of detail.
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Jul 22, 2019 16:19
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TotalHell posted:That looks really nice! I'm impressed by what Contrast can do in short amounts of time. Also the gold Sharpie technique seems smart for a model with this type of detail. Thanks! The contrast Ultramarines Blue works especially well for Gulliman’s armour because all the gold filligree stops it from pooling. It’s a little harder to combat this on a normal marine with big armour panels, but not impossible. Just look at the imperial fists intercessors people in this thread did with Iyanden Yellow. Very little to no pooling on those yellow boys. I got the sharpie idea from a video of a pro painter who was using it to paint his own Guilliman quickly. It works a treat.
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Jul 22, 2019 17:53
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Spent the last few weeks painting up some dragons and finally finished up their bases! I think their some of the nicest models I've ever done.    
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Jul 22, 2019 21:16
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Those are some excellent bases, especially the water one. Really great highlighting!
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Jul 22, 2019 21:51
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I'm having some trouble with Iyanden Yellow. One coat doesn't quite achieve enough coverage/saturation for my liking. It looks pale rather than vivid. But a second coat ends up really orange. Am I using it wrong? How would I solve the issue?
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Jul 22, 2019 23:24
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:I'm having some trouble with Iyanden Yellow. You could try thinning it slightly with contrast medium and doing two coats that way - or doing one coat and then a thinned coat.
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Jul 22, 2019 23:29
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:I'm having some trouble with Iyanden Yellow. What primer are you using? It comes out a pretty strong yellow over a Wraithbone undercoat.
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Jul 22, 2019 23:38
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More Lord of the Rings this time ""Theoden KING" Puts me at the half-way point of the Battle of Pelennor Fields box I grabbed last week.
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Jul 23, 2019 00:16
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richyp posted:More Lord of the Rings this time ""Theoden KING" please let me come over and play as the Rohirrim with their theme blasting the entire time
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Jul 23, 2019 01:31
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Before I go and buy more Lahmian (how did my bottle go so fast?!), is there an equivalent that I could buy instead?
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Jul 23, 2019 02:45
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They've started selling it in the shade size pots now, so at least it'll last longer this time.
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Jul 23, 2019 02:54
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Has anyone ever taken the effort to transfer he paint into more reasonable pots? Like can you get empty dropper bottles?
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Jul 23, 2019 02:59
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JBP posted:Has anyone ever taken the effort to transfer he paint into more reasonable pots? Like can you get empty dropper bottles? Yeah, you can find a billion tutorials on youtube
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Jul 23, 2019 03:00
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JBP posted:Has anyone ever taken the effort to transfer he paint into more reasonable pots? Like can you get empty dropper bottles? its a crime to have more than two empty dropper bottles. they're like milk crates
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Jul 23, 2019 03:21
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Squidmar Miniatures seems to be a pretty legit painting channel. It’s not been running that long, but he has some nice tutorials and is a really talented painter.
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Jul 23, 2019 05:22
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I painted a Tempestor: And I have to admit, Aethermatic Blue is pretty great for power swords, lenses and plasma coils.
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Jul 23, 2019 06:12
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Professor Shark posted:Before I go and buy more Lahmian (how did my bottle go so fast?!), is there an equivalent that I could buy instead? I just use Vallejo Flow Improver.
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Jul 23, 2019 06:16
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