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The Bananana posted:Lol, i know right? I would because it's more profitable than the car sale itself. It's one of the ways they make big bucks.
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Jul 23, 2019 05:11
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If a shop has ordered parts for me but I feel like I'm getting dicked over by them, can they usually just return them? It's a long story but I'm sick of dealing with this place. They said they were going to order me some parts but haven't gotten back to me. I don't want to give them my business for *reasons* but I also don't want to dick them over and have them be stuck with these parts and have to eat the cost, because they are a small father and son business.
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Jul 23, 2019 16:07
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Yeah they can return them, and they do all the time when they either misorder parts or order stuff they wind up not needing for a job. For the most part they get their parts from regular parts stores; the stores bring them out to them. Next time they have parts show up, they'll just send the unneeded stuff back with the driver. Special order stuff (particularly electrical) is a bit more difficult to return, but the parts stores will take a return from a shop a lot easier than you or me. If you haven't signed anything like a contract for the work, you should be fine to walk away. Just let them know sooner rather than later so they can cancel any special order stuff. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Jul 23, 2019 |
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Jul 23, 2019 16:13
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Krakkles posted:2017 Ford Focus SEL automatic transmission, I think 2.0L something or other? I should say, this was high-pitched on the order of "some adults won't be able to hear it, and teenagers will find it really annoying". Still hoping for input if anyone has it, though 
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Jul 23, 2019 16:18
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I was just reading some of the general lack of love for AWD in most cases here in AI, and I totally understand. I live in upstate NY and while yes we get snow a good amount of the time, it's usually nothing a good set of snow tires can't handle regardless of transmission type and if it's much worse than that, reconsider getting on the road. You generally get worse gas mileage, and they're more to maintain, etc. I'm bummed because I probably should have thought about this more when I got a AWD '14 Lexus IS350 F-Sport last summer. I got a good deal, and I wanted to upgrade from my '02 IS300 that needed repair after repair. When I was shopping I knew I liked the healthy mix of sportiness and reliability it offered. The IS350 seemed to have lots of good reviews and very few problems talked about online. I wasn't looking for AWD when I bought it, (again no real reason/need) but I wasn't actively avoiding it either. I'm loving the car. I'm just wondering how serious of a mistake I may have made? I plan on keeping the car a long time, but don't want to piss away money needlessly. Right now I'm telling myself, "Yeah, you were stupid to buy AWD and every penny you spend on transmission repair/maintenance is your penalty for making an ill-informed decision." If I was helplessly dependent on the dealership or a mechanic I'd feel even worse. If I can be forgiven for this, I'm willing to live with my mistake and still be very happy with the car. I live well within my means and if I had to take it to the dealership for every single repair/maintenance I'd be fine. I like to save money though. I do my own oil changes, brakes, and other small to moderate jobs on my wife's car and mine. So I am willing and capable to change transmission fluids/oil unless you guys know of a particular reason I can't in my own garage that I've missed in my research. (Like special tools or equipment?) It seems the response to "lifetime fluids" is a scheme to allow dealerships to replace transmissions, so I'm not buying that and it looks like I should change them on my own. I'm at about 60k now and some of the more cautious posts I'm reading say to replace the differential fluid at around 50k. I'm also worried about keeping the tire wear consistent so I don't create more strain or problems. Is there a way to check that? And anything else anyone would recommend to care for the AWD? Maybe more maintenance but isn't she pretty? 
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Jul 23, 2019 18:05
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Car is a 2010 Civic hatch. UK spec 1.8si. My wife got some combination of ABS, VSA and tyre inflation warning lights on the last mile of her trip home today. When it happened she was crawling in heavy traffic. I went down to check it out and no error lights. Brakes seem fine, fluid level is ok, tyres pressure 1psi lower on one corner (3 at 29.5, 1 at 28.5, should be 30), but it's been more off in the past than that without showing an alert. She can't be any more specific about what she saw than I've put above, and I didn't see it myself. Would stuff like this throw OBD II codes that I could pull even if the dash lights have gone out? I have a little bluetooth reader, but couldn't get it to pair with my phone. Should we run it some more and see if the warning comes back? Or take it straight to a garage?
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Jul 23, 2019 18:16
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yamdankee posted:*snip* Enjoy the car and don't worry about it.
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Jul 23, 2019 18:45
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2014 Ford Focus, automatic A month or so ago, my check engine light came on after about 30 minutes of driving, and gear shifting became kind of sluggish/bogged down, and it wouldn't shift into the highest gear or into reverse. I got home, turned the car off, and the next time I drove the check engine light was off, and everything was fine. Now starting about a week ago that's been every day or every other day. It drives fine for half an hour, and then the check engine light comes on and it start shifting shittily and reverse doesn't work. But I get home, I turn it off and let it sit for a bit, and then I get back in the car and it drives fine. Then I turn it off again and next time I get in, the check engine light is off and it's still fine. But then I'll get in it AGAIN and after 30 minutes of driving or so it'll start acting weird and the light comes on. It seems really random. I'm not sure why it would start after a while of driving or why it would start working normally after turning off the car. I'm going to get a transmission flush and a code reading this weekend, I'm just curious what I can expect or suggest going in.
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Jul 23, 2019 18:46
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yamdankee posted:I was just reading some of the general lack of love for AWD in most cases here in AI, and I totally understand. I live in upstate NY and while yes we get snow a good amount of the time, it's usually nothing a good set of snow tires can't handle regardless of transmission type and if it's much worse than that, reconsider getting on the road. You generally get worse gas mileage, and they're more to maintain, etc. Rotate your tires regularly, lube everything, and enjoy your car. Yes, there are a few more parts that may add to maintenance costs, and yes, your gas mileage is worse, but selling the car and getting a different one would be an extreme reaction to that, probably. COOL CORN posted:2014 Ford Focus, automatic
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Jul 23, 2019 18:53
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Father Jack posted:Car is a 2010 Civic hatch. UK spec 1.8si. Odd combo of warning lights, but worth checking battery voltage and possibly wheel sensor/wires. The ABS/VSA are definitely tied to the wheel speed sensors on most cars.
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Jul 23, 2019 19:01
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yamdankee posted:I was just reading some of the general lack of love for AWD in most cases here in AI, and I totally understand. I live in upstate NY and while yes we get snow a good amount of the time, it's usually nothing a good set of snow tires can't handle regardless of transmission type and if it's much worse than that, reconsider getting on the road. You generally get worse gas mileage, and they're more to maintain, etc. AWD isn't bad, just unnecessary and expensive vs 2WD in most cases. All-wheel drive with snow tires is the best so at least you have that!
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Jul 23, 2019 19:01
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PaintVagrant posted:Odd combo of warning lights, but worth checking battery voltage and possibly wheel sensor/wires. The ABS/VSA are definitely tied to the wheel speed sensors on most cars. So is the tyre inflation in this case as far as I know, there's no actual pressure sensors. The battery is only a few weeks old, but I'll bear it in mind.
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Jul 23, 2019 19:15
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Thank you guys. So you wouldn't really worry about the fluid? Maybe at 100k? Or if it ever seems sluggish or jerky down the road? Glad you brought up tires: I want to rotate them but the tires on there right now are directional and the wheels are staggered. (225/40R18 front, 255/35R18 rear) So I can't rotate them right? Would you recommend getting non-directional tires in the future so I can at least rotate side-to-side? I'm thinking whenever I get new tires I'll go with non-directional and non-low-profile for a better ride and less noise. Is there anything wrong with doing that, other than slightly worse handling and not looking quite as good? I'm also on the fence of whether or not I want to bother getting another set of wheels, snow tires, and swapping them out each winter. I'm not against it, but if you guys think I could just get away with a good set of all-seasons and don't let the tread get too low I should be fine? I understand the good logic of combining AWD with snow tires, but is it dumb to just be ok with all-seasons?
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Jul 23, 2019 19:15
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^^^ Snows vs all seasons really depends, 'upstate' is a hugely variable area. If you're in Lowville, then, duh, snows. South of the Tappan zee? Pfft, ride out the all seasons.yamdankee posted:I was just reading some of the general lack of love for AWD ... I live in upstate NY Upstate here as well- the South end of Cayuga lake. All I can add to what's been said is that awd demands a closer eye on tire wear and pressure- you really want all 4 wheels to be the same diameter to keep the driveline from chewing itself up compensating for mismatched corner speeds. I'm STILL pissed that the well regarded, late model used car dealer sold my wife a Forester newly fitted with tires having a sidewall 5mm shorter than oem, but left the spare as is at the oem diameter. I've told her with zero uncertainty to never drive the car on the spare (mechanical sympathy is not strong with one- with my luck it'll happen while I'm out of town and she'll tool around for a week before getting the flat tire fixed), but... Time will tell. With ALL that in mind, full size spare, rotate often, stay ahead or at least attentive of suspension wear, flatbed if things go pear shaped, and just drive. glyph fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Jul 23, 2019 |
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Jul 23, 2019 19:19
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yamdankee posted:I'm thinking whenever I get new tires I'll go with non-directional and non-low-profile for a better ride and less noise. Is there anything wrong with doing that, other than slightly worse handling and not looking quite as good? If you get new, taller tires on the same wheels, your tires will be bigger, may rub, and your speedo will read low. If you want taller tires, you will also need smaller wheels. I got a new car with AWD on new all season tires and it was "okay" in light snow, much worse than my old FWD with snow tires. I'd rank it: 1) AWD and snow tires 2) FWD and snow tires 3) AWD and all seasons 4) FWD and all seasons That said, I bet 90% of the cars you'll see on the road are driving on all seasons and probably bald. 
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Jul 23, 2019 19:38
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Ok, considering that then, I'll look into a spare set of wheels to put snows on. I should have been more specific, I'm in the Albany, NY area so the amount of snow can vary every year. But, keeping all seasons on all the time doesn't seem like that great of an idea even though it's simpler, based on what you guys are saying. And, sorry, I don't mean to disagree or beat a dead horse, but I'm just curious if I can really get away with not changing the transmission and differential fluid. This is the nicest car I've ever owned and I want to baby it and keep it a long time. The service manual for 60,000 miles states "Replace Differential Oil (IS F)" (I don't know why it specifies IS F only). And of course doesn't mention transmission fluid because it's supposed to be "lifetime fluid" but a lot of places I'm reading people do not advise believing in that and to change it at 60k. I do drive pretty spirited, and I may not stay on top of keeping all the wheels perfectly the same all the time. I have access to a lift I can use any time for free (or a bottle of scotch, ha) and honestly I don't really mind learning how to do it. But if you guys really think I don't need to bother then I hear ya and I won't mention it again, haha. Also, this reminded me, I did get a leak in my front right tire and Lexus replaced it with a new one and they said it's ok it's within 1 or 2 16ths of an inch compared to the other one. Is that really ok? I'm worried about putting any strain on the transmission. Should I keep the two tires the same exact pressure or should I fill the older one up a little more?
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Jul 23, 2019 21:23
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I'd say play meaning you can move.it up/down. Not binding it so that it can't turn. Sounds a lot like you have over tightened them and you have no compression
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Jul 23, 2019 21:24
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wolrah posted:Do you have cats, and do they actually work? I've never seen any reason to believe the "anti-foul" nonsense actually works on anything but the dumbest emissions control systems. A modern car with a high-end ECU like a GT-R has a very specific response curve it's expecting, and no dumb passive device will emulate that properly. * No cats. * My imaginary cats do not work. So I passed emissions this afternoon. In case this ever comes up again, here's what I did: 1) Base MAF tune with anti-foulers worked just fine 2) This is the part I was missing. You CANNOT use paddle shifters or let the car get into boost or the O2 sensors will never move to "ready". 3) Put the car into "weenie mode" (economy mode + 2wd) and do not let it get into boost. Do not drive on the freeway if you can help it. 4) Drive the car for 20 minute stretches, turn the car off and let it rest 5-10 min, turn it back on and repeat. 5) Sensors moved to "ready" after about 30 minutes of me doing the above. 6) Pass emissions and be legal as hell!
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Jul 23, 2019 22:05
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Giant_Pupils posted:* No cats. 1.) Move to a county without emissions 2.) Be actually legal as hell without having to use limp tunes and temporary parts + ridiculous driving
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Jul 24, 2019 01:59
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Deteriorata posted:Enjoy the car and don't worry about it. This. No matter the car, enjoy it.
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Jul 24, 2019 02:07
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C-Bangin' it 
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shortspecialbus posted:1.) Move to a county without emissions Doesn't exist in Maryland.
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Jul 24, 2019 03:49
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My wife’s car has picked up an annoying habit and I can even think where to start looking. 1998 Mazda BJ Familia (323), 1.5L, 5-speed. When you turn the key it takes ages before it starts cranking. Anywhere up to 30 seconds. Seems to be worse when cold. When it finally cranks it starts fine. It’s been getting gradually worse for maybe a year - radio turns off correctly when you hold the key in start, so I think the ignition itself is ok - there’s no clutch interlock to go bad - battery is fine My best guess is the starter itself getting sticky. Any better suggestions or troubleshooting tips would be appreciated.
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Jul 24, 2019 11:20
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NoSpoon posted:My wife’s car has picked up an annoying habit and I can even think where to start looking. 1998 Mazda BJ Familia (323), 1.5L, 5-speed. Check various grounds.
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Jul 24, 2019 11:39
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Father Jack posted:Car is a 2010 Civic hatch. UK spec 1.8si. A general OBD2 reader won't pull codes from anything except the engine computer. But I'd bet on a bad wheel speed sensor. Hopefully. The TPMS light is the odd one in the combo.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:03
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yamdankee posted:I understand the good logic of combining AWD with snow tires, but is it dumb to just be ok with all-seasons? Obviously AWD with snows is great. shortspecialbus posted:1.) Move to a county without emissions Put loving cats on your street cars. It's not the 1980s anymore, high-flow cats exist, you can have performance without being a shithead stinking up traffic and polluting our air.
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Jul 24, 2019 16:05
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wolrah posted:
It spends more time on the track than it does on the street in my defense. It’s not a daily. It has to be tagged though because I’m not going to haul it on a trailer everywhere
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Jul 24, 2019 16:15
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I've been helping a refugee family, that's been settled in my city, with car stuff. They have no money and the mom and dad are working two jobs each 6 days a week. I've replaced bearings and plugs on the two cars they managed to get basically free (over 200,000 miles each and falling apart). But today the 2004 Nissan van they have has poo poo the bed and I need advice. It's a clogged catalytic converter, I'm almost certain. The car has very little power and is making a bad smell (also a local auto dude had pity and diagnosed it). What are my options? Could I remove it and wash it out somehow and re-install it? Could I just remove it and leave it off? If replacement is the only option, is there a super cheap way? Thanks ahead of time guys. The auto shop wants 900 to fix it and that's high enough that I told them they might just need to buy a different lovely car.
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Jul 24, 2019 18:12
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Go to an exhaust shop and ask for the cheapest possible catalytic converter. Or get a generic cat on ebay or Rockauto for $100, have a no-name exhaust shop weld it in.
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Jul 24, 2019 18:32
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Ideally you should install a cheap one from a shop. I got one installed and rewelded my entire exhaust & redid the hangers for $400 and was quoted $250 to put a new high flow cat in my truck so maybe try somewhere else. I think they are trying to gouge you. If you can find someone on craigslist parting out a similar car you may be able to get a super cheap cat and have it welded in, whatever you do though I would recommend against the "test pipe"/ knock the cat contents out with a broom method as although it will work with a spacer for the o2 sensor catless cars smell different and it may tip off police depending on how anal your cops are. (Removing an emissions device is illegal pretty much everywhere) Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jul 24, 2019 |
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Jul 24, 2019 21:57
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92 Chevy S10 4.3l V6 Z engine, with the valve stem seal job I mucked up by over-tightening the rocker nuts. I re-did the valve lash thing, this time following the new procedures from this thread, and hey! The truck runs now! It went really fast since I didn't have to strip nearly as much poo poo off the top of the engine as the shop manual says I did, and everything was already clean so I didn't spend hours cleaning things. Started right up, seems like it sounds right (not sure I'd know if there's excess lash by the sound though, so maybe I've gone too far the other direction, who knows!) but the timing is right, and it runs. Thanks thread! Success! Ok so I ran the engine till it was hot and tried reving it and it smoked a lot. I'm hoping it's just leftover oil in the engine/tailpipe from all my testing and such and will run it some more, as well as do an oil change to a heavier weight high mileage oil etc. as previously recommended. But, man, it does not look promising. 
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Jul 24, 2019 22:28
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COOL CORN posted:2014 Ford Focus, automatic Is it the automatic or the PowerShift DCT? If it's a PowerShift your warranty may have been extended (and it's been in the news lately about Ford knowingly selling a defective transmission).
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Jul 24, 2019 22:28
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Leperflesh posted:92 Chevy S10 4.3l V6 Z engine, with the valve stem seal job I mucked up by over-tightening the rocker nuts. If it sounds okay, take it out for an Italian Tuneup, repair work is messy and there tends to be stuff to burn off.
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Jul 25, 2019 01:10
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wolrah posted:Still be illegal, just not have anyone checking. EPA is federal, it's always illegal to remove your cats. Oof, yeah - I missed that bit  I've done various fuckery to my WRX but I would never consider a catless downpipe unless it was a track-only car.
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Jul 25, 2019 02:22
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Fender Anarchist posted:If it sounds okay, take it out for an Italian Tuneup, repair work is messy and there tends to be stuff to burn off. yeah it's hot as gently caress out and the truck's AC was removed like 15 years ago so I'm gonna wait till it's less ball sweaty out but that is my plan and I'm gonna cross my fingers and hope it works out at least this latest repair cycle, while time consuming and knuckle-scraping, wasn't expensive at all. if worse comes to worst, how much do you guys think an already refurbished engine for this truck would cost, bearing in mind I'm in California so I can't just do any random engine swap I want? Vs. pulling this engine and having it rebuilt? I don't have a hoist, nor the space, nor the patience, nor the back health to do a full engine pull myself if it needs to be rebuilt. Worth doing, or, just scrap the truck and get a newer one?
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Jul 25, 2019 02:24
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I would keep it and a rebuild will be cheapish, maybe $1500-2k. Its a common engine. You can’t really get a decent truck for much under $5k and a good one starts at about $10k.
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Jul 25, 2019 02:52
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Plenty of oil likely dripped down into the cylinders when you did the valve seals. I'd let it idle for a good bit (30 minutes or so, obviously checking the temp now and then), then rev it a few times to see if it's still smoking.
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Jul 25, 2019 08:10
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NoSpoon posted:My wife’s car has picked up an annoying habit and I can even think where to start looking. 1998 Mazda BJ Familia (323), 1.5L, 5-speed. Sudden epiphany: it’s got an aftermarket alarm with immobiliser. It’s probably one of the relays for that buried deep inside the dash, right? Find them and bridge the right pins to test?
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Jul 25, 2019 11:05
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I don't have room for a good air compressor for inflating tires. I just bought a lovely one off Amazon and it's garbage. So I need something better that runs off 110v and a cigarette lighter (or has terminal clamps) and can muster enough pressure for larger cargo van tires. Advice?
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Jul 26, 2019 02:53
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What's the best way to clean a car after a mouse has lived in it? I'm vacuuming everything, rubbing down all the surfaces with Clorox wipes, I'm going to shampoo the carpet tomorrow. Is it better to leave the windows open to let the car air out? Should I be worried about anything in the duct work? Car is a 95 Roadmaster.
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Jul 26, 2019 03:14
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2 gallons of diesel and a match, Sorry that wasn't helpful. If it was me I'd be pulling the seats and carpet to pressure wash the poo poo out of them. If the stuff under that still stinks I'd rip and replace.
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Jul 26, 2019 03:33
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