|
AlexDeGruven posted:If you're printing 20kg/week of abs in a poorly ventilated room, then maybe? After some more reading I've come to the conclusion the PLA is basically ok, but ABS and Nylon is stuff to watch out for. Does that sound alright? A case would be awesome, but I don't really have a space where that would work. 
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2019 08:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 21:28 |
|
|
TKIY posted:Pi goes in a case. Hook up via USB cable. Done. Huh. Somehow I'd gotten it into my little head that I needed to solder ribbon cables and whatnot. Working now, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2019 09:18
|
|
|
bolind posted:Huh. Somehow I'd gotten it into my little head that I needed to solder ribbon cables and whatnot. Working now, thanks. You're thinking about the Prusa instructions for installing a PiW0 on the machine itself. Not a single person who has done that has been happy with the results. Yes, it's slick that it's all enclosed, but it just doesn't have enough power to run octoprint properly. Forget about any cameras.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2019 15:26
|
|
|
Print a case for a Pi3B+, stick it with double sided tape somewhere practical.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2019 15:32
|
|
|
Funny related question but a bit off topic... I'm an engineer and think from a CAD bent, but I want to do some stuff (car bodywork) that's more focused on external curves and stuff, in this case to be routed into bodywork bucks. I mean very ideally, interfacing with point clouds from 3d scanner stuff. Any advice for software to work with 3d meshes that isn't too expensive or bad to learn?
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2019 18:08
|
|
|
Blender is free and is the best option for poly modeling at the sub-$1000 price point. Rhino is better for your specific task (good meshing functionality with superior CAD tools) but it's $1000. If you are a student it's $200 for a full license. Maybe you can sign up for a community college class and use that to get a discount on the software? Processing a point cloud into something usable is a full-time job by itself, before you even start re-modeling the original object, so get ready for that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2019 22:46
|
|
|
My company recently picked up a client who needs a lot of "flat-lay" style photos taken for them, and the cost of studio camera stands was... a lot higher than we expected. I ended up designing my own stand around v-slot c-beam extrusions. It actually works really well for our needs, and is more rigid than some of the cheaper studio stands we looked at. Other than the 2kg of filament it needed the BOM was pretty minimal (12 x countersunk M8 bolts, 4 x button-head M8 bolts, 16 x M8 nuts and 16x 608zz roller bearings). Considering that I am generally fairly useless at designing functional objects I'm pretty jazzed about it and wanted to share:   One thing I'll probably change if I ever need to rebuild it will be to use delrin wheels - my printed ones aren't terrible, but they're not 100% circular, so the axes don't move as smoothly as they probably could.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 05:59
|
|
|
That's nice work! What led you to print the wheels? Just why not, or were proper ones too expensive or hard to source? I'm not a real nuts and bolts guy although I've used aluminum extrusion stuff before so I'm only passing familiar with the hardware.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 09:28
|
|
|
Wow, that looks really good!
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 09:46
|
|
|
There were a few reasons:
I ended up testing a few materials and the light-grey PLA+ stuff seems to strike a good balance between layer bonding and rigidity, so I just ran with that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 09:57
|
|
|
Any chance you'd post the STLs or base files?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 14:02
|
|
|
What locks it in to place? I can't tell from the images
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 16:03
|
|
|
bring back old gbs posted:What locks it in to place? I can't tell from the images At the moment it's just a handle that's secured by M5 screws and T-nuts (on the vertical axis) and we just use A-clamps for the in-out direction. Perhaps one day I'll add a motion system, but for the moment it's far better than our previous solution: putting poo poo on the floor and using one of those tripods with the swiveling center posts. sharkytm posted:Any chance you'd post the STLs or base files? Here you go - the Sketchup files are at 10x size to work around its lovely low-precision maths: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EYYHDS8xzbTfnwden7FGpSLjHqbKYKqp/view EDIT: STL files are now also in the .zip as well. It may not be obvious how all of the bits go together - let me know if you need detail pics and Ill post some when I'm back in the office.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2019 00:58
|
|
|
spongepuppy posted:My company recently picked up a client who needs a lot of "flat-lay" style photos taken for them, and the cost of studio camera stands was... a lot higher than we expected. That’s a pretty slick copy stand! One thing I’ve mulled over for years is designing an open source photo enlarger since getting them is much harder nowadays. Keep putting it off though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2019 14:49
|
|
|
Would this be the right thread for CNC routers? It didn't seem like the best fit for woodworking thread. Are any of the home models (say under $2000) to the point where they can support a woodworking hobby vs being a hobby of "making this janky machine function" without much effort?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2019 21:28
|
|
|
Not much router talk going on here, but here have a cool video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIGre_E2_og
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2019 21:59
|
|
|
This thread exists. It’s kind of quiet, but it has subscribers. It started as a single project but morphed a little into a mini-megathread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3558051
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2019 22:17
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:One thing I’ve mulled over for years is designing an open source photo enlarger since getting them is much harder nowadays. Keep putting it off though. Yeah, that would be a pretty sweet project - although I expect the need to keep everything well-aligned would be a bit of a challenge. 3d printing is such a boon for photography stuff though - I must have designed and printed at least a dozen light modifiers, arca rails and camera L-plates. I should probably pull my finger out and upload them to thingiverse or something. But only after I've added some stupid logo/signature motif on the .STL file, of course.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 10:52
|
|
|
Anybody know a good metric for tightening corexy belts to the right tension? I don't really want to buy an expensive device just to measure belts... Also, not 3d Printer related directly but this is pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zq8-IQPp9dA Link to instrucitons: https://www.v1engineering.com/zenxy/
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 15:30
|
|
|
jubjub64 posted:Anybody know a good metric for tightening corexy belts to the right tension? I don't really want to buy an expensive device just to measure belts... Just tight enough that they snap back, making a dull bass thud when plucked in the middle of the longest runs. Guitar tight is too much. Belts tacoing over on themselves so way too much. Aliexpress seller TriangleLabs sells verified-genuine Gates belts with proper glass fiber reinforcement, FYI. They’ve got cool red stripes too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 16:22
|
|
|
Well drat, upgraded to Cura 4.2 and now almost all program defaults are changed. Guess saving profiles as changed values only comes back to bite us all in the rear end. Basically, I can now dump all my profiles and start again because a ton of defaults have changed, for some reason they even removed the wall priority setting from the default.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 18:08
|
|
|
Hey thread, I'm looking to get into the 3d printer game but could use some help figuring out what the best printer would be for me. I am currently looking at the Ender 3 and the Anycubic Photon. Budget: $200-$300 Use Case: Trinkets, Wargaming and Miniature Painting. Probably not so much miniatures themselves but bits, wargaming terrain, and other knickknacks like movement trays, paintbrush holders, objective markers, etc. I'm currently comparing the Ender 3 and the Anycubic Photon, and I guess the main question is whether the higher print quality of a resin printer is worth the extra $50 and mess/smell vs. the filament for what I want to do with it. Ideally I'd like to set this up in my basement workshop, which I imagine would be bad for the Photon without some sort of ventilation, right?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 18:48
|
|
|
Miniatures with FDM are an exercise in madness, at best. Yes, people will post pictures after this of "check out my FDM miniature, nyah" ... but that's after hours of tuning and cleanup and failures. Resin will be a much faster A -> B.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 21:35
|
|
|
Gotcha, I've definitely gotten that impression but some people say "once you get it dialed in it's amazing!!!!" so I wasn't sure how true that really is. Is it still an exercise in madness if I don't plan on printing 28mm miniatures or bits for them and focus more on larger pieces of terrain? My main concern with resin printing is that it doesn't seem as user friendly and the learning curve seems steeper, is that true? Also I have read a lot about some of the downsides of resin, mainly the toxicity of the materials and the messiness and extra work that comes with clean-up. Is it as bad as people make it seem, and to one of my original questions, does putting a resin printer in an unventilated basement pose a health hazard?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
I've got a photon and I've got a friend with an Ender 3. You can print miniatures with the Ender if you're willing to put in a lot of work in post print finishing to get a good surface, but even after doing that you're still not going to get the kind of detail that you can get out of the photon by just loading up a file and hitting print. Learning curve using the photon has been way faster and easier than getting an FDM printer dialed in for detailed work. Get the build plate level (follow the directions) and make sure to clean the bottom of the build plate between builds and you're most of the way there. If you're planning on printing bigger stuff (how much bigger?) then the Ender is the way to go since the photon's build volume is so small. As far as the odor goes maybe my nose is broken but it's not nearly as bad as people online make it out to be, I just stick mine next to an open window and the smell doesn't spread more than 3-4 feet away from the printer. Health wise...yeah that's a big question mark as far as I can tell especially if you're using the cheaper resins where you're lucky if you can find an msds. The smell definitely varies by resin, with the cheaper rapid resins being the worst offenders I've come across. If you want to set up a fume extractor you probably don't need much, dryer duct and an inline fan clamped over the vents on the back of the printer would probably do the trick as the rest of the printer seals pretty well. Cleanup is a bit messy if you're not careful, but it's all just wiping up with paper towels and isopropyl. Uncured resin is hazardous and can't be disposed of easily, but you can simply leave it in the sun for a couple minutes to cure at which point you can toss it with your regular trash.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 22:51
|
|
|
I'd do FDM for larger things like scenery where you're going to be doing some paint. I printed this mausoleum model out mostly for a 3d printing presentation for some kids (hence not doing paint) but it ended up being pretty good. I think with a smaller nozzle the details would be sharper but it looks good in person: I don't think it would fit the build volume of a small resin printer, although for miniature figurines they'd look a lot better in resin. I'd buy one and then you'll probably end up getting the other kind later.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:36
|
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:Gotcha, I've definitely gotten that impression but some people say "once you get it dialed in it's amazing!!!!" Once you have it dialed in for that specific model 
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:42
|
|
|
So, anyone printed this yet? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3743374
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 00:23
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:So, anyone printed this yet? Look at his other designs lol
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 00:34
|
|
|
this is a alpha so theirs it take allot of effort to make and may not be safe, how ever tests have been "successful"
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 00:43
|
|
|
shovelbum posted:Look at his other designs lol amazing
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 03:15
|
|
|
I'm not proud of what I just did, but I did get a quote out of itquote:Could probably tone down the section of travel at the ends where it reverses direction by incorporating a small arduino nano or something + a mosfet, and opto-isolator, then use PWM to drive the speed of the motor, this will open you up for adding a potentiometer so the user can adjust speed, timed slowdowns for direction changes (based on speed) and even have more pins to drive vibration motors . Just an idea Cool design tho
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 03:52
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:So, anyone printed this yet? God bless that guy just searching for a better O. I looked up the demo video of it in motion, and holy gently caress does it have some zip to it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 22:04
|
|
|
There's all sort of sex toys on Thingiverse. Can't keep your dick in your pants? Here's some help: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1945228 The Ghost Writer posted:God bless that guy just searching for a better O. I looked up the demo video of it in motion, and holy gently caress does it have some zip to it. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jul 31, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 22:15
|
|
|
Baby's first printer chat again: I think I've decided to go with a Photon for now and am getting ready to pull the trigger. Does this raise any red flags? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273339919482 Seems like a really good price and direct from AnyCubic, just want to make sure that this isn't a lesser model or something.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 02:09
|
|
|
Nope, that's the same price they are on Amazon now and from anycubic's own site. I think they're trying to clear out inventory now that the photon S is out, but I don't think the photon S is a worthwhile upgrade. The S has a slightly more powerful light source, and a different Z axis that supposedly prevents wobble better but it's got a plastic body instead of stamped steel and the controller board is a weird proprietary anycubic part instead of the chitu controller in the original photon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 03:08
|
|
|
Amazing, sold! E: aw poo poo, when I posted the link it was $229, now back to $299. Maybe it was a fluke. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Aug 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 03:45
|
|
|
shovelbum posted:Look at his other designs lol oh no no no no no no no oh jesus christ now I have to deal with the knowledge in my brain that someone has made a bad dragon compatible my little pony toy. 
Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Aug 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 06:38
|
|
|
I've been setting up the moarstruder tool head on my lulzbot and am happy with how much time it saves during printing, but I was wondering if I could get away with just one perimeter wall? With the smaller toolheads I was always printing 2-3 perimeters, which was about 1-1.5 mm thickness. With the moarstruder, 1 wall is comparable, ~1.2 mm thick. But I didn't know if there was a structural reason why it would still be good to print at least 2 perimeters?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 21:28 |
|
|
I’m still really new at this. What am I doing wrong here? I’ve leveled the bed up, I’ve leveled the bed down. I’ve changed out the nozzle. Nothing’s working. It just clots up in a ball and nothing actually attaches to the print bed.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 21:59
|
|
