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The Boss Katana combos are pretty popular.
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Jul 24, 2019 06:52
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While I'm an admitted fanboy of the THR10 series (seriously, use the PC Editor and you're in for a world of awesome!), but I completely agree that the boss Katana series of amps is legit great. We used one for recording our death metal album, and at points I used a combination of it with my Mesa Rect-O-Verb and it just made the whole thing crunchier. The 2x12 cabinet is also legit so great, it basically supplanted my Orange 2x12 for live situations.
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Jul 24, 2019 07:33
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Thing is I have a Dark Terror and an early 2000s Peavey Studio Pro so I have loud, high gain noises on lock. I want something that lets me play blues and classic rock at bedroom volume. I really like the way the Yamaha seems to get the fender style tones right - does the Boss handle break up well or nah? I already have an elevenrack but its modelling is starting to sound dated to me.
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Jul 24, 2019 10:11
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The Fender Mustangs put out great sound. I wouldn't dismiss them at all. I wouldn't get below the 40 because the 40 and above have all the digital controls on the amp itself. It's the ones below it that you'll want to use the app for. I have the original Mustang III and I wouldn't ever consider selling it. If it dies, the GT100 (It has the midrange knob controls that the 40 lacks as well as FX loop) would be bought immediately.
Philthy fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jul 24, 2019 |
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Jul 24, 2019 16:42
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I do plan on testing one, but my issue with that is that it takes quite a bit more power to get an 8" driver moving than 2 3" drivers, which means more volume before you get the kind of tones I want. I may have found one shop with THR10s in stock so I'll go test one of those and try to find a GT40. The Kitana Air and the VOX ADIO are probably a bit outside my price range.
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Jul 25, 2019 02:09
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Im only just coming around to the fact that miced small cabs can sound really good in their own way not just as a compromised 4 x 12. 100ws and 4 x 12s still own for room filling though. I’ll never be a “but all you NEED is 15 watts and a small amp” guy. massive spider fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Jul 25, 2019 |
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Jul 25, 2019 11:53
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I have a my Dark Terror running through my 4x12 is about 90% as loud as my Laney G100 ever got; it just gets turned up to 7 or 8 instead of 1.5-2. On the jam room on 2.5-3 it was bordering on uncomfortable even with ear plugs. I'm happy to just turn up a bit more to be honest. I feel like driving the EL34s in that amp to break up would probably be illegal under most circumstances.
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Jul 25, 2019 14:29
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I used to have a tiny terror and most of the time it was great but when we played shows in non-venues with a PA that was vocals only it would run out of headroom and I couldn’t get a clean sound at all. Yeah 99% of the time you don’t NEED more than 40 watts but sometimes you just WANT that horsepower.
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Jul 25, 2019 16:24
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Anyway I’m talking a lot of noise here because as much as I’d love a 100w head again my current set up is digital and my future solution to shows like that is just not to play them lol
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Jul 25, 2019 17:01
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massive spider posted:Anyway I’m talking a lot of noise here because as much as I’d love a 100w head again my current set up is digital and my future solution to shows like that is just not to play them lol That's the solution. If there's no PA in my town, a 412 is going to be way too loud because it means you're playing in the corner of a beer garden. Also the Dark Terror has no clean headroom at any volume, that's why I'm not just looking for a reactive load box. I love the lead and crunch tones it gives me, but if I went the load box route I'd still need a bunch of heads and pedals, where I just want to be able to sit down and jam a particular song or style without having to plug a million things in. Sometimes I only get 15 minutes of play time on a weekend so it's about getting into it quick.
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Jul 26, 2019 00:22
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Google suggests this is an actual thing: (It's speaker jacks for the THR amps.) I mean of course this is silly. I'd personally use the headphone out to a poweramp/stereo cab or powered stereo cab, but you still just get the five presets. Interesting idea, though. Dr. Faustus fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jul 26, 2019 |
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Jul 26, 2019 04:57
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Dr. Faustus posted:Google suggests this is an actual thing: Now I wanna see a THR with analogue stereo line outs, running into a Behringer iNuke 1000W stereo power amp, into two 412s. Spose you could just use the headphone out, but they tend to be a bit lovely.
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Jul 26, 2019 05:15
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Don Dongington posted:Now I wanna see a THR with analogue stereo line outs, running into a Behringer iNuke 1000W stereo power amp, into two 412s. Everything I'm reading says this isn't the best idea due to the impedance and frequency curve mismatch between speakers and headphones. It seems like there's a market for an admittedly niche converter or attenuator there for people who want to run headphone outs to line level inputs.
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Jul 26, 2019 16:59
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I used to own a THR10 and I was very disappointed in it. It sounds better than others in its vlass but I dont consider it a good amp.
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Jul 26, 2019 18:06
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Ferdinand the Bull posted:I used to own a THR10 and I was very disappointed in it. It sounds better than others in its vlass but I dont consider it a good amp. Get him
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Jul 26, 2019 23:45
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Ferdinand the Bull posted:I used to own a THR10 and I was very disappointed in it. It sounds better than others in its vlass but I dont consider it a good amp.
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Jul 27, 2019 05:21
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I got a THR10X and the Brown channels were the only one I could tolerate, but it did sound pretty ace on those settings. Everything else was IMO deep fried garbage
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Aug 3, 2019 12:44
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for $50 more than a THR you can get the Katana 100W head that has a built-in speaker. Slap it on 0.5W mode for the bedroom and then when you achieve rock-god status, you can gig with it.
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Aug 3, 2019 14:53
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Yeah it's a convenient tool. You can use it and it has a lot of passable sounds and you wont get ear fatigue from such a small unit. I'm just not impressed by any of the sounds. I ended up using it until I found my very own Fender Pro Reverb. It has the sound that I am looking for. If you want to go down the modeler route, there are better choices but theyre at a higher price point. If all you can afford is a starter amp, I guess go for it? Just dont talk it up as more than it actually is.
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Aug 4, 2019 03:34
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I ended up finding a Vox ADIO AIR GT for about $50 more that I really enjoy. It's not as versatile as the katana but the sounds it does are really sweet. It's a surprisingly nice Bluetooth speaker too, and battery operation was a plus. Does look like grandma's purse though. Meanwhile, the guy I took shopping with me walked out of the store with an OR15, a PPC212 and a new Prestige RG. Hngg.
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Aug 4, 2019 04:16
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Hey, there's an amp thread. I'll ask for beginner advice as an acoustic guy with a Firefly in the mail. Assuming my budget tops out around $150, I'm looking at either an Orange 12 or a Mustang to play in my bedroom. The Mustang has a shitload of options and will make me sound like [whatever] right out of the box, but the Orange will teach me what the knobs actually do and also will look cooler. The Mustang can DO a lot of things easily, but can I get almost all the same sounds out of the Orange with fiddling? Or is there special software magic going on that replicates a bunch of petals I'm unlikely to buy any time soon.
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Aug 13, 2019 02:41
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If we're talking about the Orange Crush 12, the only "magic" it has is that the headphone output has a cab simulator, meaning you can plug your headphones of choice and it'll sound alright. Other than that, what you see is what you get: i.e. a good solid state practice amp. If you're talking about the Mustang LT, it's basically like the Vox Adio or Yamaha THR in that it lets your work with multiple sounds that are easily accessible on tap and you'd probably be able to juice it even further with the corresponding foot-switch.
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Aug 13, 2019 05:28
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The bigger Mustang GTs have more controls on board but if you're going to use the Fuse software that doesn't matter as much.
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Aug 14, 2019 00:44
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I’d first say that with all gear the right thing is the one that makes you excited to pick it up and play with it. The Orange is going to be simpler and more straightforward and it’s going to sound like the Orange. If you play with it and feel a connection and you like the look and sound of it, go for it, you don’t need to justify it in terms of features. All that said, for an acoustic player transitioning to electric, the exciting new thing about it is the huge range of tonal possibilities. A modeling amp is going to give you the ability to experiment with all kinds of sounds, without needing to purchase a whole bunch of pedals. That can be very freeing and encouraging and allow you to approximate the sound of songs in all different styles. It can also be overwhelming in terms of options, and some people find it paralyzing because they get caught up fiddling and it eats up all their playing time.
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Aug 16, 2019 15:14
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So I’ve been meaning to drop off my guild thunderbass tube amp with my amp guy, but I wanted to paint the cabinet first since it looked super rough and I don’t want to have to open it up once it’s gone through. It has an issue where it sounds fine for the first 10 minutes or so then it starts crackling and it just gets worse until I turn it off. I cleaned all the jacks with sandpaper and sprayed the pots with Deoxit since I had it opened. Nothing looked too bad but I had to remove the power tubes to put the handle back on. Once I put them back in I noticed one tube (RCA) looks like it’s seated just right and on the other (sylvania) I can see just a hint of the pins and it looks like it’s a hair taller than the other tube. I’ve tried reseating a couple of times but the tube doesn’t seem to want to go in any more. Is this this ok or is it a potential problem? The crackles could probably be from a few different things but the tubes are really old and certainly suspect. I didn’t even know that Motorola, Raytheon, and General Electric made tubes. I wanted to try a few tests so I can give my amp guy an good description of what’s going on. I really should have given the power tubes a good look before pulling them out but too late now. Pic of tubes in question- https://imgur.com/a/BJnc2V2
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Aug 28, 2019 20:30
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I plugged it in and played it for about 45 minutes at a variety of settings and it seems a better than before. After awhile I heard a slight buzz but nothing like the harsh crackling sounds it was doing before. All the tubes seem to have a normal glow. One of the power tubes has a blue tinge but I guess It’s seated properly. I did the tap with a pen test and heard nothing. I might try replacing some of the preamp tubes later.
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Aug 28, 2019 23:16
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Hey, dumb question but after doing research online, I've ended up more confused. I've borrowed a 4x12 Cab from a mate to try some recording experiments. It has ONE speaker input and that's 16 ohms. There are 3 amps I want to play the cabinet through. Which of these amps are safe to play with? - Mesa Single Rectifier (Speaker Outs: 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm) - Bogner Uberschall (Switchable ohmage on the back, I can run it at 16 ohms so this one is fine) - 1970s Fender Bassman (4 Ohm) I've seen a rather confusing amount of responses to this google question, so some very simple answers would be appreciated before I blow something up 
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Sep 5, 2019 09:15
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You can plug the 16 ohm load by itself into any of those speaker outs. Plugging in a load with lower ohms than the speaker out's rating would be the concern (lower ohms is a more difficult load).
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Sep 5, 2019 09:51
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Loco posted:You can plug the 16 ohm load by itself into any of those speaker outs. Plugging in a load with lower ohms than the speaker out's rating would be the concern (lower ohms is a more difficult load). Okay, so at the risk of opening a can of worms: IF: Speaker Cabinet has a higher ohmage than the amp I'm using, that is safe. BUT IF: Amplifier has higher ohmage than cabs, it could be bad?
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Sep 5, 2019 09:56
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Basically, the amplifier is kicking out a fat stream of power, and it’s expecting to see something substantial to kick against. If it doesent, then it’s just pissing power into the wind/itself in a wanton and dangerous fashion. If it sees a bit more resistance than it was expecting. That’s fine, it just means it won’t be outputting as much volume efficiently. I think 4ohm into 16 ohm load is pushing it though.
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Sep 5, 2019 10:06
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massive spider posted:Basically, the amplifier is kicking out a fat stream of power, and it’s expecting to see something substantial to kick against. If it doesent, then it’s just pissing power into the wind/itself in a wanton and dangerous fashion. If it sees a bit more resistance than it was expecting. That’s fine, it just means it won’t be outputting as much volume efficiently. Fair cop. In that case: At the moment I'm recording my amps with the DI from a load box. Load box is 8ohm and has an 8ohm output. Would there be any issue going: Amp (4ohm) -> Load Box (8ohm) -> Cabinet (16ohm) Or would I be better just going Amp -> Cab?
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Sep 5, 2019 10:09
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Match the impedances. Think of it as the smaller the number the bigger the flow of electricity. Or water. The 4 ohm out on that bassman into a 16 ohm cab is like trying to fill a waterbottle with a gardenhose at full blast, where as if the head was at 16 ohms and the cab 4 ohms, it be like filling a 10 gallon bucket with a turkey baster. You'll blow that fenders output transformer, and probably the speakers when the transformer goes. As for the load box, same thing, your going to have your amp power hitting a bottle neck, and then the load box also stepping down into a bottle neck. Find another cab, or rewire the one you currently have, you might be able to make it 8 or 4 ohms depending on what the resistance of the speakers is in there at the moment. edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvaojICThzg Pokey Araya fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Sep 5, 2019 |
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Sep 5, 2019 14:45
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H13 posted:Fair cop. In that case: forget what I just said. It turns out there’s a difference in how solid state and tube amps handle this.
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Sep 5, 2019 23:52
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What sort of load box are you using? I know the Weber Mass attenuators don't care what the speaker impedance is as long as the amp and the attenuator are matched. There's a very good chance you will be able to re-wire the cab to 4ohms if you really want to use the Bassman.
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Sep 6, 2019 01:54
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massive spider posted:forget what I just said. It turns out there’s a difference in how solid state and tube amps handle this. Same, I guess my comment above was mainly applicable for solid state? I just learned for tube amps that a higher impedance load than the amp output can cause higher voltages which blow tubes and potentially worse.. think I may have figured out why my fender champ 600 was blowing tubes when I connected it (4ohm) to a 8 ohm cab and cranked it.
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Sep 6, 2019 06:20
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At least try to cite a source before the goon blows a transformer, good grief. Hughes & Kettner make amps so they probably know what the gently caress: http://blog.hughes-and-kettner.com/ohm-cooking-101-understanding-amps-speakers-and-impedance/ Tl;dr: 4 ohm output into 16 ohm cab is no bueno, find a second cab or rewire the loaner.
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Sep 6, 2019 07:33
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The Hughes and Kettner blog says it’s fine to connect a 16ohm head into a 4ohm cab though which other sources I’ve found say no way, 8ohm at minimum.
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Sep 6, 2019 10:01
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So a few months ago I liquidated a bunch of my old music stuff, including a meh 2009-era Vox modeling practice amp and a Fender Rumble 25 Bass amp of the same vintage. I have since moved into a much smaller space than I had before, with new roommates, thinner walls, etc. I'd like to be able to practice and record at a solid quality, without buying pieces of kit that break the bank or that I can't fit into my bedroom. I currently have a BOSS ME-80 handling the bulk of my pedalboard needs on guitar (I'll happily buy standalone effects if/when I feel like I need them, but for the moment I really really want to stay lean and cut down on owning extra boxes and knickknacks, which the ME-80 has been awesome for). It has an amp cab sim in the headphone/line out, a 'preamp' section that comes out through the instrument-out jack, and a USB interface that "lets you record straight into a DAW". I also have a Soundcraft mixer/interface with switchable instrument/line level inputs. Am I better off: 1) Buying some good cab sim/etc software and running guitar/bass through the mixer straight into my computer? 2) Running guitar through the ME-80 and recording from USB or stereo line out (and maybe bass too? Or getting the bass-specific BOSS multi-effects board?) 3) Picking up some decent, small amps and mic'ing them, etc (I have mics)? I was thinking something like a Micro terror/micro dark, etc.
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Sep 16, 2019 23:22
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Buying a Focusrite interface and BIAS Peak is probably the correct answer but I just don’t like playing a software amp that much because I’m a crank. That said, Peak sounds great and will do everything you described quite well.
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Sep 17, 2019 02:12
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Buying a Focusrite interface and BIAS Peak is probably the correct answer but I just don’t like playing a software amp that much because I’m a crank. That said, Peak sounds great and will do everything you described quite well. My Soundcraft has a 12 channel interface roughly on par with the Scarlett built in. I’ll notch one vote for software. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Sep 17, 2019 |
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Sep 17, 2019 02:18
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