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pokie posted:Oh interesting re:cruise. As for resistors, do yo mean figuring out what resistance the old lamps were equivalent to and adding some into the circuit? As mentioned, that's what you do when sticking LED indicators on a bike that's not meant to have them, LED's have gently caress all resistance so the relay ends up flashing super fast. In line resistors stimulate the load of a conventional bulbs. I imagine a similar thing is going on with your bulbs, the module sees gently caress all resistance and assumes the circuit is shorted out.
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Jul 28, 2019 22:03
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Would you guys say that it’s expected that an engine which is still cold and running rough would produce rough rotation of the wheel until it warms up? I had my bike on the rear stand and fired it up just to test something, threw it in first and saw the wheel turning .. I don’t know how to describe it .. just not smoothly. The best description I’d give is that it turned how a cold engine sounds. I didn’t leave it running until it heated up because I’m iffy on running the bike on the stand in the first place, but it makes sense to me. Just want to sanity check.
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Jul 28, 2019 22:51
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The engine is connected to the wheel, so if the engine is loping a bit as it idles with no load, the wheel will probably be turning a little unevenly too, yes. Post a video if you want to be sure. Hopefully this is obvious but you should never do any work on the bike's drivetrain while the engine is running, let alone while it's in gear. Even if it's in neutral, it's too easy to accidentally click it into gear and lose your fingers to the chain.
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Jul 28, 2019 22:57
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Correct. Was doing absolutely no work, just wanted to see the bike spin. Last thing I need is to lose a finger. I need those  I’ll grab a video ya some point but it makes sense to me.
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Jul 28, 2019 23:22
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Martytoof posted:Would you guys say that it’s expected that an engine which is still cold and running rough would produce rough rotation of the wheel until it warms up? I would expect even a hot engine to run a bit below optimal idle when spinning a wheel in neutral. You set the idle so that the engine develops just enough power to tick itself over smoothly. Adding a spinning rear wheel and some additional gearbox drag adds load to it, which would lower the idle into an rpm area where the engine runs less evenly. The power pulses through the drivetrain also gives the wheel a bump, which then drivetrain drag slows down, before it gets another bump, all of this probably cycles through some harmonic oscillations which would be very trippy to see in slow motion. tl;dr it's fine
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Jul 28, 2019 23:29
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I can't seem to fix this hand/finger numbness issue. I'm making a conscious effort to keep all weight off the bars at all times, but I still get numbness in my thumb and index/middle fingers. It's more pronounced in the left hand, at least it comes on much sooner even in slow city riding, but the right hand gets it too if I'm on the highway for an extended period of time. When it gets really bad, the numbness/tingly feeling extends to my other digits. I routinely have to take my hand off the bars and shake it, or squeze an imaginary stress ball at stops to work it out. Starting to think I might have carpal tunnel syndrome... that or it's my gloves.
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Jul 29, 2019 04:30
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Mister Speaker posted:Starting to think I might have carpal tunnel syndrome... that or it's my gloves. How tight are the gloves when your hands are on the bike's controls? I had this problem with a pair of Held Airstreams that were about a half size too small - fit very snug but OK off the bike, but were too tight when I was actually riding.
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Jul 29, 2019 04:48
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They don't feel too tight. They're difficult to get on but once they're on they feel finez except maybe a pinch on the underside of my index finger.
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Jul 29, 2019 04:54
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Try getting a professional deep tissue massage, like trigger point or Swedish, and then riding the next day. I carry a shitload of tension in my shoulders and neck. At the worst of times, that tension will radiate all the way down my arms, occasionally flaring up in my elbows and hands. After a massage that’s deep enough to really work some adhesions and knots loose, it’s easier for me to pinpoint where problems in my posture or general tension-holding are. It may make it simpler for you to determine if it’s your posture, grip, body weight loading, or gloves/bars/seat/other not-you things. It’s kind of crazy how much your back, abs, neck, and shoulders can cause problems to flare up in your limbs if they’re uneven or otherwise unhappy. It’s really not some woo woo moonflower chiropractor bullshit either. My neck, arms, wrists, and hands are most comfortable on motorbikes when I’m working out (especially my back and core), on a good seat, and not keeping my wallet in my back pocket. On the bike itself, try rotating your handlebars forward a few degrees at a time in the clamps. Maybe also put a sand or shot-filled inner tube in there to deaden vibration, and/or some bar weights. Try riding around with some looser gardening gloves so you can test the aforementioned glove tightness ideas.
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Jul 29, 2019 05:44
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Mister Speaker posted:I can't seem to fix this hand/finger numbness issue. I'm making a conscious effort to keep all weight off the bars at all times, but I still get numbness in my thumb and index/middle fingers. It's more pronounced in the left hand, at least it comes on much sooner even in slow city riding, but the right hand gets it too if I'm on the highway for an extended period of time. When it gets really bad, the numbness/tingly feeling extends to my other digits. I routinely have to take my hand off the bars and shake it, or squeze an imaginary stress ball at stops to work it out. Everything from your spine to your fingertips is connected in a mess of interconnected signals. Sitting at desks with our hand out at a weird angle holding a mouse is actually terrible for the body, and can really gently caress your poo poo up. I have a constant dull ache down my arms because of years at a desk with lovely ergonomics, and the ergonomics of your bike is making it worse (happens to me too). Do what HJL said, adjust your bikes handlebars and check your gloves, but also look at the ergonomics of your workplace and home. Do some light weight exercise to increase the strength of your core, shoulder and supporting muscles, and see a physiotherapist if you can.
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Jul 29, 2019 07:55
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Mister Speaker posted:I can't seem to fix this hand/finger numbness issue. I'm making a conscious effort to keep all weight off the bars at all times, but I still get numbness in my thumb and index/middle fingers. It's more pronounced in the left hand, at least it comes on much sooner even in slow city riding, but the right hand gets it too if I'm on the highway for an extended period of time. When it gets really bad, the numbness/tingly feeling extends to my other digits. I routinely have to take my hand off the bars and shake it, or squeze an imaginary stress ball at stops to work it out. I was thinking maybe carpal tunnel when you first posted. Especially on a bike with clip-ons. Even though I'm sure you know that the proper wrist angle is - - o, inevitably you get tired and sloppy and end up like \_o. (in the process of trying to find an image representing this, I found this which might be useful: https://www.quora.com/Why-does-my-right-hand-go-numb-everytime-I-ride-my-motorbike-after-awhile ) One way to check for carpal tunnel is to stretch your arms out straight in front of you, then bend your wrist up as close to 90 degrees as you can, so your fingers are pointing as straight up as you can get them (think "stop, in the name of love!"). Really stretch and hold the position. If you start getting numbness and/or pins and needles in your fingers, yeah your hand nerves are getting pinched in your carpal tunnel. A certain amount of discomfort in your wrist is normal, but you shouldn't get numbness in your fingers.
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Jul 29, 2019 12:10
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When I go over big enough bumps in the road (like a deeper-than-I-thought manhole cover), sometimes there’s a clack that comes from the front end. I know nothing about suspension (or suspension tuning), but is this indicative of something? Shocks bottoming out? Is this fine or really bad? I moved from a DRZ that eat curbs for breakfast to a Sportster that cowers at manhole covers.
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Jul 29, 2019 12:58
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Probably just some wires or plastic poo poo in your headlight bucket/dash bouncing around. Grab your front brake and jump up and down on your forks (with the bike not running) to see if you can isolate the noise. Finger Prince posted:One way to check for carpal tunnel is to stretch your arms out straight in front of you, then bend your wrist up as close to 90 degrees as you can, so your fingers are pointing as straight up as you can get them (think "stop, in the name of love!"). Really stretch and hold the position. If you start getting numbness and/or pins and needles in your fingers, yeah your hand nerves are getting pinched in your carpal tunnel. A certain amount of discomfort in your wrist is normal, but you shouldn't get numbness in your fingers. I can just barely get my hand to 45' and my fingers start tingling immediately. Pity my tiny bird wrists. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 13:46
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epalm posted:When I go over big enough bumps in the road (like a deeper-than-I-thought manhole cover), sometimes there’s a clack that comes from the front end. I know nothing about suspension (or suspension tuning), but is this indicative of something? Shocks bottoming out? Is this fine or really bad? If you're hitting big bumps on a sporty and only hearing ONE noise you could probably stand to go faster. Coming from a DRZ it's like swapping a magic carpet for a lada, in suspension terms. There's a bunch of stuff in Sportster forks that's semi loose and rattles around, most bikes with basic forks have exactly the same poo poo but aren't usually so heavy. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 20:41
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Sv forks clunk over square bumps. Some bikes just do tha, but yeah, coming off a DRZ, a sportster is going to feel like it’s falling apart on bumps
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Jul 30, 2019 04:44
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Paging babyeatingpsychopath or other electrical people: I know how to do a t-splice and stuff like that, but what's the correct connector type/splice type if you need to do connect 1 wire into 6 or 12 something like that? I keep searching amazon for like "bus connectors" or "multi-taps" and it's not really returning satisfactory results. McMaster Carr wants to charge 30 dollars for a 4 way splice connector, which is loving insane. https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-splices Amazon has 12-way "terminal distribution blocks" of various Chinese origins, but they're still 30 dollars, which, again, for an especially uncomplicated piece of metal seems kind of crazy to me. I've seen the little marine terminal thingies like this https://www.amazon.com/Positions-Terminal-Pre-Insulated-Barrier-MILAPEAK/dp/B07CM1JQCR/ with strips for distributing the voltage but they are very bulky. A 10 way connection ends up being the size of my fist. I feel like I'm either missing something like the correct term for the type of connector that I'm looking for, or else I am about to do something stupid due to inexperience with wiring. For the record, the entire circuit is behind a 20 amp fuse so I don't think it's possible for me to dump too much power into it no matter how many things I feed off a single 14 awg wire, but I could be wrong about that.
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Aug 2, 2019 23:52
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What is this feeding? Easiest way is to put ring terminals on everything, then get a long brass machine screw and several nuts and then cover the whole thing in either liquid "electrical tape" or self amalgamating rubber tape and good quality (3M) vinyl tape. Significantly less ghetto, use this with ring or fork terminals Full up appropriate way to do it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CLS96RD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_limrDbZEKVP5G Or do it the Sagebrush way and do this X12 
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Aug 3, 2019 00:09
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This is still just my KZ400 misadventures 20 amp fuse just feeds the dash lights and things. Complete list of things being fed off the 20 amp fuse: Horn Neutral light Oil light Engine start/stop switch 10 A fuse -> Light bus 10 A fuse -> Dimmer switch/headlight Turn signal relay Front brake switch Rear brake switch Brake light fail switch Light bus is just the middle filaments on the running lights and the headlight. The ground bus is actually a bit more of a mess, there's like 12 things in there, but eh. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 00:21
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I'd spend the coin on a fuse block then, if you fuse all your circuits at 5-10 amps, a short, or water intrusion or some poo poo won't blow your 20a main fuse and your bike won't go completely dark.
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Aug 3, 2019 00:44
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Mirconium posted:Paging babyeatingpsychopath or other electrical people: I use wago connectors, they're meant for thicker wire than you normally use on a motorcycle but they still work fine. See https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102802-wago-connectors/
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Aug 3, 2019 15:00
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Slavvy posted:Grease your brake lever pivot, you'll be amazed at the difference.
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Aug 4, 2019 06:18
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2007 Daytona 675, still having intermittent starting issues. Replaced the battery and the headlight/starting relay a few months ago, then realized the battery voltage was way too low and brought it to a shop, who replaced the stator and regulator + rectifier (Slavvy called that one). I was worried the battery would face issues despite only being a month old, as I had run it down to 11v or 10v, but the shop thought it'd be fine. It's been fine for the last ~6 weeks since all the work was done, but now I'm having issues starting again (it doesn't seem like it's even trying to start, the headlights don't turn off and there's no cranking sound). I replaced the battery since I figured getting run down that far must have caused some problems, but I'm still having intermittent issues. Went for a ride and came back, let the bike sit off the tender for a bit and checked the voltage, got 13+ while everything is off, high 12s when the headlights are one but the bike is not running, and 14.5 when the bike is on and idling, so I don't think it's an issue with the new stator or R+R. Check and clean all the ground points? It seems like in the process of doing the stator and R+R the shop would have been touching those points at least, though that doesn't mean they cleaned them off. Any other ideas?
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Aug 5, 2019 17:33
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Really stupid but did you check all the fuses, does the horn work? My friends track 675 wouldn't start because the horn fuse blew.
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Aug 5, 2019 18:48
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I should check all the fuses, though it starts if I sit there and try enough so I'm guessing it'd have to be a loose connection rather than blown fuse. I'll check the horn just to see too.
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Aug 5, 2019 19:05
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So I've looked at the maintenance schedule on my bike and it has the obvious things on there, Oil, air filter, spark plug, valves, coolant, chain, brake fluid, tires But it has a few things hidden behind "Brake system" and "Suspension" I know that you have to do a fork rebuilt after 2-3 years for the seals/bushings and the brake lines have a lifespan of about 2 years also Are there other major maintenance items I am missing? (Side note: I saw the MC Garage video on rebuilding forks, and Ari makes it look pretty straightforward, other than lots of washers, but is it actually doable for someone who is a relative novice? On the one hand I'm epically cheap and don't want to shell out 300 dollars for someone to rebuild my forks. On the other hand, I also don't want to die due to a catastrophic suspension failure.) DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Aug 5, 2019 |
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Aug 5, 2019 19:41
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Mirconium posted:So I've looked at the maintenance schedule on my bike and it has the obvious things on there, Similar issue with my Multistrada I'm getting ready to sell - timing belts are 15k miles or every 5 years. Odometer's well under 15k, but the bike turned 5 this year. Ordinarily I make sure all required services are done before I list a bike for sale, but I'm not throwing $1k+ at a belt change on a bike I'm not keeping around. Might be different if I had the tools or inclination to do it myself, but nah. That reasoning is why there are plenty of people riding around on suspension that hasn't seen new fluid or seals in years.
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Aug 5, 2019 19:53
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Adjusted my chain slack, but I hosed up and lost count of the adjuster turns; futzed about with some thread to check it and I think I've got it mostly straight but I don't know how close to perfect it is or needs to be. Not helping that something is dragging on the wheel and I can't tell what, but when I give it a kick it only spins about once all the way round before stopping. Is it because the wheel's squint? Dirty chain? Insufficient axle grease? It was making a distressing grinding noise when I started but after dousing everything in WD40 and going to town with a rag that's gone, but the wheel still isn't spinning any more freely.
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Aug 5, 2019 20:52
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Jazzzzz posted:Similar issue with my Multistrada I'm getting ready to sell - Why are you selling it? And what are you getting instead?
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Aug 5, 2019 20:58
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MomJeans420 posted:I should check all the fuses, though it starts if I sit there and try enough so I'm guessing it'd have to be a loose connection rather than blown fuse. I'll check the horn just to see too. The shop wouldn't have touched any of the earth points, I'd start there then look at all the connectors. Mirconium posted:So I've looked at the maintenance schedule on my bike and it has the obvious things on there, I'm going to assume you're riding a 1989 NSR500, I suggest carefully removing the forks and sending them to the showa factory in Japan for servicing every 10 hours. Serious answer: you will not die from stale fork oil. Most people wait until their forks start leaking them redo the seals and fluid. You definitely don't need to rebuild the forks because I assume you aren't dropping sick wheelies or doing track days, so the bushes etc will all be fine. If they're not leaking you don't really even need to take them apart, just drain the fork oil and refill with the correct kind. Whether or not you can DIY this depends on you and the forks, knowing what kind of bike it is would be immensely helpful. Your brake lines are a non-issue and are on the service schedule as a CYA exercise, they will last decades no problem. Switching to braided lines is relatively cheap and easy and is guaranteed to make the bike ride better, but 100% optional. Renaissance Robot posted:Adjusted my chain slack, but I hosed up and lost count of the adjuster turns; futzed about with some thread to check it and I think I've got it mostly straight but I don't know how close to perfect it is or needs to be. Your drum brake adjuster is too tight now that the wheel has moved rearward slightly when you adjusted the chain. Back it off several turns, then spin the wheel while gradually applying rear brake. Adjust it in until you start to lose slack in the brake. You want enough slack in the system that the wheel can spin free for the first half inch of pedal travel or thereabouts - it is absolutely critical that you have this free play or the brake will stick on when everything expands from heat. Wrt chain adjustment: go for a ride on a flat level road and take your hands off the bars, you'll know instantly if you hosed up.
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Aug 5, 2019 21:05
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pokie posted:Why are you selling it? And what are you getting instead? 1) It's not being ridden enough due to 2) and 3) 2) Wife complains of awful buffeting over 35mph no matter what windscreen I use or what position said screen is in 3) I have two other bikes and not enough time to ride Plan is to get one of these for the GS but who knows if/when it will ever actually be delivered. It's 18 months overdue at this point. Regardless, no sense letting the Multi sit around depreciating if I'm not riding it. 
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Aug 5, 2019 21:44
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Slavvy posted:The shop wouldn't have touched any of the earth points, I'd start there then look at all the connectors. Will give it a shot, otherwise I'll just have to start parking it overnight in increasingly worse neighborhoods
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Aug 5, 2019 23:36
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Jazzzzz posted:1) It's not being ridden enough due to 2) and 3) I'm very confused by the side stand there - is that an outfit that lets the bike lean?
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Aug 5, 2019 23:52
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I'm very confused by the side stand there - is that an outfit that lets the bike lean? Note the bigass rose joint at the front of the bike.
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Aug 5, 2019 23:53
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Slavvy posted:Note the bigass rose joint at the front of the bike. Is that really clever or really, really stupid? Outfits are baffling enough at the best of times, I genuinely can't tell.
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Aug 5, 2019 23:57
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Is that really clever or really, really stupid? Outfits are baffling enough at the best of times, I genuinely can't tell. Here is a video of one hooked up to a K1600GT. Regular hacks don't handle like motorcycles. There's no countersteering, you turn the bars in the direction you want to go. Steering effort is very high (people often swap to leading link forks to help combat this). The sidecar will come up off the ground if you make a sharp turn towards it, pushing you towards the outside of the turn - good luck if you come in hot to a decreasing radius turn. The rig will pull toward the sidecar when you take off from a stop and push away from it as you slow down thanks to inertia. This design gets around some of the steering stuff, but has other trade-offs (it's wider than a "normal" sidecar because it has to allow room for the bike to lean over). The push/pull inertial stuff is still there, but to a lesser extent. There's a guy who makes sidecars here in the US that considers leaning rigs to be the worst of all worlds, he probably knows better than I do. That said, I thought it looked fun, so I'm taking a shot in the dark on one and hoping it works out because: - If I wanted something that didn't lean I'd just buy a Spyder. I've ridden a Ural, no thanks. - The way this setup attaches to the bike lets you pull two pins to take the sidecar off and get back to a regular motorcycle (the cradle the sidecar attaches to stays on the bike) - This gets my wife off the back of the bike - she's a poo poo pillion - and also lets me haul my dog(s) around if I feel like it
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Aug 6, 2019 00:21
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Renaissance Robot posted:Adjusted my chain slack, but I hosed up and lost count of the adjuster turns; futzed about with some thread to check it and I think I've got it mostly straight but I don't know how close to perfect it is or needs to be. i dont really understand, are you expecting the rear wheel to free spin like the front? how would that ever work with a chain attached
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Aug 6, 2019 00:26
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Slavvy posted:
Bike's a CBR300R. I'm not so much worried that the stale fork oil will kill me, more like, if I disassemble the fork for an oil swap, I'm worried I will put it back together wrong. Like if you put the top end of an engine together with the cams in the wrong orientation or whatever. My seals are leaking, I'm pretty sure, but if I can just top off the oil in the fork and put in new seals and be done with it, that's probably what I'll do. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Aug 6, 2019 |
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Aug 6, 2019 01:12
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Jazzzzz posted:1) It's not being ridden enough due to 2) and 3) My experience suggests minimal or no windscreen is best. Good luck with the side car!
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Aug 6, 2019 01:27
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Mirconium posted:Bike's a CBR300R. I'm not so much worried that the stale fork oil will kill me, more like, if I disassemble the fork for an oil swap, I'm worried I will put it back together wrong. Like if you put the top end of an engine together with the cams in the wrong orientation or whatever. Ok so those are super simple to take apart and put together, which you need to do to replace the seals. You'll probably need to make/buy a tool to drive the new seals in with, as well as some way of clamping the fork in a vice without destroying it. When you come to do the fork oil, the correct amount is gauged by it's level, NOT by quantity. Assemble the fork tubes and seal, put in the damping rod and bolt that in. Leave the spring, preload spacer and everything else above the spring out, then fill the fork oil with the fork fully collapsed. You may need to pump the fork/damping rod a few times to push out trapped air, then measure level from the top of the stanchion with the fork collapsed. The spec will be in the manual, usually somewhere between 100-140mm. The air gap is tuneable; bigger gap = plusher operation. If you aren't sure, there will also be a quantity spec which is helpful for judging if you've got all the air out etc but again, the height level takes precedence. All of this is doable with normal tools except for driving in the seal. Don't be tempted to try tapping it in with a drift or whatever, you'll just damage the seal and/or your fork. A piece of pvc pipe of the appropriate diameter + a hammer work very well. Also for the love of gently caress torque the triple clamp pinch bolts and get the forks 100% the same height side for side. The easily obtained manual pdf will help you here.
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Aug 6, 2019 01:59
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MomJeans420 posted:Will give it a shot, otherwise I'll just have to start parking it overnight in increasingly worse neighborhoods Ah yes, the "Chichevace" method of making mechanical problems disappear.
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Aug 6, 2019 02:40
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