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I know I'm narrow casting here, but did any London UK goons take part in the Arch competition over the weekend? I went to try out some of the problems after the comp and it's so far above my level. Had a lot of fun falling off the start holds though. They have the competition up on YouTube if anyone wants to watch, though it was filmed on the world's shittest camera for some reason. https://youtu.be/JXpyPvuvuHc Tears In A Vial fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jul 28, 2019 |
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Jul 28, 2019 18:34
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Tears In A Vial posted:I know I'm narrow casting here, but did any London UK goons take part in the Arch competition over the weekend? If you want some comp-y problems to try, check out Arch's TAMRU (The Arch Monthly Round Up) event they hold once per month at Acton - each problem you manage to tick off gets 50p donated to charity - they try to set problems for people of all skills, there's free pizza, it's a very chill affair etc etc.
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Jul 29, 2019 10:28
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I got to do a little outdoor bouldering on Saturday, managed to solve an entirely way too easy V0... and then then tried a bunch of V1's, V2's and one problem that I couldn't quite figure out where it was on the map so I have no idea what grade it is. Didn't stay very long, climbing alone is a lot less fun than not, especially when you don't know where you're going or any of the beta in the slightest. Also a dog at home means time is limited, and crossing the US/Canada border coming home is a pain in the loving rear end. 90 minutes to go 27 miles. I did chat with a few other randoms I bumped into, the place was quite crowded. It was a combination of helpful and not  A lot of them are just way fuckin good climbers who were essentially like, "Easy problems? It's been so long since I've done anything like that, I don't remember where they are specifically. That way <gestures broadly>". Definitely looking forward to going with a friend from the gym though, and not just for the sake of having someone to carry water and stuff 
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Jul 29, 2019 16:19
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There are a few mobile apps (rakkup and gunks app, maybe others) that have gps locations for individual problems. It may be worth checking if the area you're bouldering in has a guide on one of those apps. The apps are free, but the guides are not unfortunately.
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Jul 29, 2019 16:40
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:If you want some comp-y problems to try, check out Arch's TAMRU (The Arch Monthly Round Up) event they hold once per month at Acton - each problem you manage to tick off gets 50p donated to charity - they try to set problems for people of all skills, there's free pizza, it's a very chill affair etc etc. I've had a go on the wall after the event, but never been to tamru itself. I really should go. Acton is my usual spot
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Jul 29, 2019 17:27
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Tears In A Vial posted:I've had a go on the wall after the event, but never been to tamru itself. I really should go. Acton is my usual spot Definitely - pop me a PM if you fancy next time there's one on and I'll say hi
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Jul 29, 2019 17:42
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armorer posted:There are a few mobile apps (rakkup and gunks app, maybe others) that have gps locations for individual problems. It may be worth checking if the area you're bouldering in has a guide on one of those apps. I picked up a bouldering guidebook Saturday at the end of my session at the nature center (wasn't open when I arrived) which has some GPS coordinates, I'll have to look for those apps next time. Reading this guidebook now.. quote:New names were created for problems that had generic ones (e.g. "Left", "Standard", "Traverse") Hahhh those were the 3 I asked about specifically when speaking to someone. Those are the names in that 2010 PDF I found, but everyone there uses this book - go figure.
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Jul 29, 2019 20:19
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:Definitely - pop me a PM if you fancy next time there's one on and I'll say hi dope, thanks very much. I appreciate that.
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Jul 29, 2019 22:07
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Here I am trying a boulder problem that I can't figure out. It's pretty steep, and when I get to the point where I fell off I can't figure out what to do with my feet. It's the black holds, but I realize that it's sort of hard to see which holds are in in the video. Any tips would be appreciated! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pcy0Vb3NzNs Edit - Woops had it as private! Should be fixed now. Jester Mcgee fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Jul 30, 2019 |
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Jul 30, 2019 15:49
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"This video is unavailable"
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Jul 30, 2019 15:51
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Jester Mcgee posted:Here I am trying a boulder problem that I can't figure out. It's pretty steep, and when I get to the point where I fell off I can't figure out what to do with my feet. It's the black holds, but I realize that it's sort of hard to see which holds are in in the video. Any tips would be appreciated! Looks like you don't have much body tension/are not pushing on the right foot when you fall. Can you heel hook the hold above your left knee? And/or back stepping on the volume your right foot is already on? Anyway it feels like you'd at least want to pivot the right foot so it's facing the other way, keep a lot of tension and then match the last hold you touched. then turning around again to get to the next one? Might be able to bump to the next one with the left arm if the heel hook is possible/good without matching. I'm bad so that might all be stupid
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Jul 30, 2019 16:13
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Hmmm, like a drop knee with my right leg? That might work. The heel hook with the left foot looks really doable in the video, but when I was up there it felt like I wouldn't get anything from it, definitely worth trying though. And about the general lack of body tension: that is one of my biggest weaknesses. I'm pretty tall, and that means my puny core can't keep up with all this bod I'm lugging around.
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Jul 30, 2019 16:26
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Jester Mcgee posted:Hmmm, like a drop knee with my right leg? That might work. The heel hook with the left foot looks really doable in the video, but when I was up there it felt like I wouldn't get anything from it, definitely worth trying though. And about the general lack of body tension: that is one of my biggest weaknesses. I'm pretty tall, and that means my puny core can't keep up with all this bod I'm lugging around. yeah like a drop knee with the right leg is what I had in mind. But looking at it more I think by just moving the foot closer to the tip of the volume and actively pushing in your toes you might be able to avoid the drop knee thing I suggested entirely. Your foot slips off automatically when your right hand leave the hold so by not relying just on the left leg you might not open and slip like that. Still feels like turning your foot/body toward the left should help and would make more sense to help you get that right hand up. But the right hand look like a really solid hand hold while the one you're matching to is really bad, so trying if you can get a good heel hook to bump your left hand to the next hold might be smart. Like I said I'm bad and only climb V5 (and not all of them) so I might just be super wrong, especially if this is harder than it looks.
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Jul 30, 2019 16:48
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KingColliwog posted:yeah like a drop knee with the right leg is what I had in mind. But looking at it more I think by just moving the foot closer to the tip of the volume and actively pushing in your toes you might be able to avoid the drop knee thing I suggested entirely. Your foot slips off automatically when your right hand leave the hold so by not relying just on the left leg you might not open and slip like that.
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Jul 30, 2019 18:01
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Jester Mcgee posted:I think you are right that I need to get some weight over to the left. This is in the V4-6 range, but definitely not one of the harder ones, so probably V4 or V5. It's not super complicated, but the holds aren't good (especially if you don't like slopers) and the moves are all pretty big. I read it as foot switch then hand-heel match and then either cross straight into the dish or maybe match/bump, it's hard to tell how bad that left hand is. I hand/foot match a lot though because I'm short and flexible.
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Jul 30, 2019 18:07
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Agreed that a left heel looks like the solution. In general, it looks like you could do a better job moving your CoG over your heel when you're hooking, which will help with tension. Even on those first couple left heel hooks, you just kind of place your foot in the right position but then move straight up. Instead, try shifting your hips further left over the heel by pulling in with your hamstring before initiating any pulling with your upper body. This will suck you into the wall, make it easier to twist to the left and reach higher, and put significantly more load on your lower body thus turning lovely holds into jugs.
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Jul 30, 2019 21:40
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I'll go against the grain slightly (as someone quite inexperienced!) and suggest heel hooking as previously suggested, but with a view to driving up with your right leg, where the small black hold is: I say this because of how your right leg's contracted quite a lot, so you've probably got the potential height/reach to hit the hold past the one you were going for (this shows it well):  So, my beta would be to heel hook left on the big hold, skip matching against the hold you were going for - instead, use your right limbs to keep on the wall, with the left heel hook used to support as you reach for the one above your left arm (using your left) e: matching that hold first would work too I suppose
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Jul 30, 2019 22:02
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I would spend more time practicing heel hooks and trying to find positions where you can almost isometrically perch atop, engaging your hands/arms minimally. As far as being tall/weak cored, you need to start climbing tall. You consistently get into these bunched positions when there are lower feet that might require slightly more core engagement, but will ultimately put you into a better position for subsequent moves. Last, you fell because you're not really applying tension through either foot. The left heel hook is likely the best beta, but I would also try planting your right foot on the tip of the volume you're currently using and then flagging your left leg under you. This should allow you to come into the hold you popped from at a lower position (so that you can engage the hold with your left arm/hand better), and then allow you to apply and maintain foot tension through your right leg as you match. You are moving to a pretty drat good hold. e: if you've got the power, just bump. Toe down (don't heel) the crimp on the left volume and explode off your left hand to the next hold. e2: skip the hold out left (on the volume) entirely, go off the lower jug to the 'bad' sloper with your right, figure out how to lock it off then pop (looks like it'll be a deadpoint) to the big sloper. this will be the most core-intensive option of the three moves, but conceivably the easiest since you look like you've got some muscle in your upper body. if you are losing core tension while making the move, adjust your feet higher or lower (probably lower). if you're swinging when you contact it, scum the wall in front of you with your top of your toe. I use that last move constantly when I make big throws that necessitate staying tight to the wall on overhung problems - takes some emphasis away from your core. rest his guts fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 30, 2019 |
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Jul 30, 2019 22:20
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:I'll go against the grain slightly (as someone quite inexperienced!) and suggest heel hooking as previously suggested, but with a view to driving up with your right leg, where the small black hold is: rest his guts posted:I would spend more time practicing heel hooks and trying to find positions where you can almost isometrically perch atop, engaging your hands/arms minimally. I think you are right. A big part of my issue with body tension is getting lazy and just not focusing on it because it's not my strong suit. And this problem really punishes that because its steep at the beginning, but then the top bit is vertical, so I end up with my center of gravity super far away from being directly over my feet. Thanks for the help everyone! It's really nice to get help like this. People in the gym are nice and generally helpful, but they are also doing their own climbing.
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Jul 30, 2019 22:40
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Jester Mcgee posted:Sadly, what looks like a hold there in the video is actually the logo for the company that made the holds, but I think you are right I need to drive through the right foot a lot more. As you can see in the video, I hesitated and sort of waved my right foot around before deciding to just go for it and fell. Aahh that changes so much - Agreed with the other chaps here then! With regard to practicing core work/body tension - don't stress about trying to practice it as you try a specific problem. Instead, just play around at the bottom of a quiet wall, reaaaally trying to feel how *you* feel on the wall when you try different things, such as pressing down on a foothold when overhanging, or heel-hooking. It'll help you get an idea of how you should be feeling when you're safe and so on.
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Jul 30, 2019 23:05
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armorer posted:There are a few mobile apps (rakkup and gunks app, maybe others) that have gps locations for individual problems. It may be worth checking if the area you're bouldering in has a guide on one of those apps. We use 27 crags locally.
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Jul 31, 2019 11:52
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Got outside climbing today. Did a couple 5.10b routes and a few easier routes. I boulder so much more than I route climb, so on anything where my endurance doesn't eat poo poo all of the moves feel super easy. I really need to concentrate on getting some more time on the ropes at the gym instead of bouldering. Anyways, climbing outside is great.
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Aug 6, 2019 22:42
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more small potatoes, but I crushed my first v5 today, worked it a bit Sunday, warmed up tonight on a 0, 2 1s and an easy 3 and then cruised it went and did a bunch of easier stuff until I was feeling the burn and did a victory lap on the 5 again ~gym grades~ felt easier than some 3s pretty stoked either way though
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Aug 14, 2019 02:54
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With sufficient practice, do your distal/middle finger joints stop hurting for days after doing a lot of crimpy problems or is that kinda just part of the job? I entered a contest of sorts at my local gym [and took third for Men's Beginner  ] but got my rear end kicked by some slightly overhung arete crimpy problem on Saturday; today's the first day my hands feel mostly normal. This is pretty common any time I decide to work on crimps, which makes it really hard for me to want to continue working on them
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Aug 15, 2019 |
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Aug 15, 2019 02:16
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Sab669 posted:With sufficient practice, do your distal/middle finger joints stop hurting for days after doing a lot of crimpy problems or is that kinda just part of the job? Hurt how? Finger strength is tendon dependent, and tendons heal much more slowly than muscle. It will usually take a few days after taxing your tendons for them to fully recover. That is, if you're referring to an achey pain akin to muscle soreness and not a sharp pain that would indicate an actual injury.
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Aug 15, 2019 06:00
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Yea I'd say it's more of just a general ache. Like if I contract my fingers to make the letter 'e' in sign language, they're a little sore. Because it's all tendons, I wasn't sure if they ever 'got used to' being taxed, as you put it.
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Aug 15, 2019 13:14
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I've been climbing for about ten years, and my fingers are occasionally sore after a particularly intense climbing session. It never lasts more than a day or so though. If you have pain lasting more than that I'd probably go easy on them until it lessens.
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Aug 15, 2019 13:17
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Hauki posted:more small potatoes, but I crushed my first v5 today, worked it a bit Sunday, warmed up tonight on a 0, 2 1s and an easy 3 and then cruised it Congrats, it's always nice to get your first "next grade" climb. It doesn't matter if it's your first v3 or first v10 I'm pretty sure the feeling is always just as awesome. I Got my first v6 2 days ago and I was really loving happy. Sure, it's perfectly my style and my flexibility/balance made it feel more like v4-5 to me, but I'm still super happy especially since I see many climbers who are much better than myself (v8-v9) struggle on it.
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Aug 15, 2019 19:37
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While you guys are sending v4s, v5s, and v6es, I went to a gym in a place with a legit climbing culture and real grades (California) and after 1.5 years of climbing I couldn't start some of the V2s 
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Aug 15, 2019 20:09
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Are you suggesting that people aren't sending "real" v6? Because while yes, gym grades fluctuate a good deal, they don't fluctuate _that_ much. I've sent v6 problems in gyms in at least 10 states in the US (including CA) and a number of other countries as well.
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Aug 15, 2019 20:16
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No, I didn't mean that at all. I just meant I'm bad at climbing.
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Aug 15, 2019 20:30
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y'all should stop paying attention to grades
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Aug 15, 2019 20:37
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armorer posted:Are you suggesting that people aren't sending "real" v6? Because while yes, gym grades fluctuate a good deal, they don't fluctuate _that_ much. Kasumeat posted:No, I didn't mean that at all. I just meant I'm bad at climbing.  My California gym is notoriously soft and I can’t do the v6s worth poo poo  Course I’ve only recently started being able to do v3s with any regularity semi recently, have a handful of v4s, and only started trying v5s. enraged_camel posted:y'all should stop paying attention to grades
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Aug 15, 2019 20:49
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japtor posted:I’m guessing lower grades are super spread out before compressing and evening out at a certain point cause there’s only so much usable scale left without getting super hard. Ehh, I dunno. I've tried climbing v8 problems that feel loving impossible, only to have someone walk up and crush it 10 minutes later. Stuff gets really, really hard at a certain point. I don't think the "difficulty difference between grades" gets smaller as the grades get higher. Bouldering grades are supposed to compare with roped grades as well, with v4 being around 5.12a. So, if you can top rope 12a, you should be able to boulder v4, at least in theory. Leading 12a will be harder, because it requires more endurance and mental fortitude. There are definitely regional differences in gym grades, largely based (in my experience) on regional differences in outdoor grades. Everything in J Tree for example is loving hard for the grade compared to a lot of other major climbing destinations. I wouldn't say to ignore grades, but I would definitely suggest that you at least try moves on problems that are a few grades harder than you think you can do, once you're warmed up. Some problems will fit your body geometry and preferred style better than others.
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Aug 15, 2019 21:04
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I’m stuck between V1-V2 problems; it feels like things are “climbing a ladder” easy or “gently caress you” difficulty. It’s frustrating, but it’s been really good for my top rope climbing because my body tension and mechanics needed a lot of work. I’m not very good at them yet but overhung projects are super fun!
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Aug 15, 2019 21:06
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I was pretty consistently able to flash new V3's or do them without many attempts, managed to send a couple V4's and putting a few moves on a V5... And then this past Saturday for that sort-of competition my gym hosted all of the problems felt like extremely hard examples of any given grade. I couldn't do either of the V3's they put up, struggled with one of the V2's and then by the time I told myself, "gently caress it I'll just do a V1 just to complete something" I couldn't even do that one - but that was after 4+ hours, which is the longest I've ever spent in a session. But yea I've started to just try V5's and V6's just for the hell of it. Not even close to any of them, but fun to at least try other problems.
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Aug 15, 2019 21:29
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Anza Borrego posted:I’m stuck between V1-V2 problems; it feels like things are “climbing a ladder” easy or “gently caress you” difficulty. It’s frustrating, but it’s been really good for my top rope climbing because my body tension and mechanics needed a lot of work. I’m not very good at them yet but overhung projects are super fun! I'm stuck between v2 and v3, where v2's just let me grip and rip everything, and 80% of v3's aren't possible for me. I'm kind of trying to get a little serious about losing some weight, which I hear is the magic panacea to going up grades without actually getting better at climbing.
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Aug 15, 2019 21:30
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ShaneB posted:I'm stuck between v2 and v3, where v2's just let me grip and rip everything, and 80% of v3's aren't possible for me. I'm kind of trying to get a little serious about losing some weight, which I hear is the magic panacea to going up grades without actually getting better at climbing. It is, if you have it to lose. Get better at climbing too though.
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Aug 15, 2019 21:39
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armorer posted:It is, if you have it to lose. Get better at climbing too though. I once weighed about 25lbs than I do now, so... yeah. It's there to lose. I will certainly NOT get better at climbing, don't even try to push that on me!!
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Aug 15, 2019 21:41
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ShaneB posted:I'm stuck between v2 and v3, where v2's just let me grip and rip everything, and 80% of v3's aren't possible for me. I'm kind of trying to get a little serious about losing some weight, which I hear is the magic panacea to going up grades without actually getting better at climbing. I think you’re selling yourself a bit short there, but yes, I’m mostly happy I actually did that “5” because it soothes my ego as I flail around ineffectually on a bunch of the new(er) 3s you should go work it too edit: to your other comment, my only cardio lately just consists of chasing my cat for 36000 steps over the weekend Hauki fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Aug 15, 2019 |
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Aug 15, 2019 22:03
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