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PitViper posted:I use a Trendnet TEG-S16DG and a set of bolt-on rack ears for it. Some desktop switches will come with the screw holes, and the attachment ears are something separate. If 16 ports is all you need, it's been solid for me since 2011, and I added the rack ears last fall when we moved into what we plan to be a long-term home. It's been nice having all the network gear racked in the basement where I don't have to think about it. Yeah I am noodling around between the TL-SG1024 or the SG1016 now that you mention it, only difference in them being the number of ports. I think long term, a 24 makes the same sense as a 16 from a footprint standpoint. Either way, I think the TP Link options are really good.
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# ? Aug 4, 2019 21:38 |
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# ? May 17, 2024 19:28 |
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Always buy a bigger switch than you think you'll need
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# ? Aug 4, 2019 21:49 |
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Somebody talk me out of going all-in with Ubiquiti UniFi equipment. I have gigabit fiber and a 30 TB Plex server and I love the idea of being able to independently manage devices. I also like being able to slowly upgrade and buy new APs as needed. My only concern is how fragmented their product line is - it looks like grabbing a $300 Dream Machine on the early access store would be the cheapest way to get gigabit IPS/IDS. edit: Just read the last 4-5 pages and it looks like I'm going to grab a nanoHD for now and a Dream Machine when they come out of Early Access. Corb3t fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Aug 5, 2019 |
# ? Aug 4, 2019 23:29 |
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Gay Retard posted:Somebody talk me out of going all-in with Ubiquiti UniFi equipment. I have gigabit fiber and a 30 TB Plex server and I love the idea of being able to independently manage devices. I also like being able to slowly upgrade and buy new APs as needed. My only concern is how fragmented their product line is - it looks like grabbing a $300 Dream Machine on the early access store would be the cheapest way to get gigabit IPS/IDS. UDM firmware is very experimental and has not reached feature parity with a usg. I would suggest waiting a bit(at least until it's GA) like you decided. UDM ports are not powered so you might want to get a switch like a us-flex if you dont want to have injectors on all your ap.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 09:59 |
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I am trying to pull my family business's internet and internal network out of the Bronze Age and into something resembling the modern era, and have found out that my knowledge of networking is even more antiquated than I feared it would be. To be specific, our metalworking company of 15 or so people is looking to consolidate our internet services so we aren't paying two companies for the same service, and as we were looking at our options from different companies I realized that we were getting royally hosed on our hardware rental- specifically, we have been paying something in the realm of $100/month to rent a 24 port switch. A switch that, upon further investigation, could be bought for $500 or less (now.) Comcast Business, who gave us the lowest quote by a country mile, will not rent a switch, so I am looking to get a recommendation from SH/SC for a switch that will do what our network needs to do without breaking the bank or my brain. We have about 4 people who are using the internet 5+ hours a day, over 7 computers that are connected to a remote desktop/server that runs all of our shop software and stuff, and we also have a VoIP phone system that we will be replacing with a Comcast system when we switch over. Thus, I know that we will need PoE, but not what version or flavor. I know that when CenturyLink gave us their quote, they were going to rent us an Adtran 1534P for $115 a month, which is a joke when you can buy the thing for $1300-1500. The more I dig into this, the stronger my desire to go stand in front of a lathe becomes, so if you have any thoughts on what hardware I can install and promptly forget without being completely taken advantage of, I would value them greatly as a guy whose computer savvy dates back to the mid-2000s. TL;DR: recommend me a switch for a <15 person business network with 5 VoIP lines, that can be installed and/or managed by a ham-handed machinist.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 16:57 |
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Might be a minority opinion, but I like HP switches when something Cisco isn't warranted. I have one I use at home and I don't ever think about it. You can pick up a 24 port PoE HP OfficeConnect switch of ebay for a few hundred dollars. The OfficeConnect switches have an easy to use browser configuration page. Any small business managed switch will fit the bill though.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 17:10 |
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Proud of myself. Bought some cat 6. Went under the house and ran the cord under the house and through the wall to my sons upstairs room. Had to attach the ends by looking at YouTube videos and now he has full speed internet for his ps4 which prior to that has crappy reception from the downstairs WiFi.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 17:17 |
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MiskatonicAthletic posted:I am trying to pull my family business's internet and internal network out of the Bronze Age and into something resembling the modern era, and have found out that my knowledge of networking is even more antiquated than I feared it would be. Consider the Netgear GC728XP along with their Insight management service.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 17:31 |
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MiskatonicAthletic posted:TL;DR: recommend me a switch for a <15 person business network with 5 VoIP lines, that can be installed and/or managed by a ham-handed machinist. If you don't have an IT person I would look at a Ubiquiti or Miraki switch. They are easy to use for non-technical people. Miraki will cost you each year but you'll actually get something in return instead of whatever nonsense you've been paying for.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 17:31 |
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Internet Explorer posted:If you don't have an IT person I would look at a Ubiquiti or Miraki switch. They are easy to use for non-technical people. Miraki will cost you each year but you'll actually get something in return instead of whatever nonsense you've been paying for. Specifically, if you're trying to do as little IT as possible with as much configurability as that will get you, look into Ubiquiti UniFi hardware, or Meraki hardware. Both have central management software that's cloud, or cloud-capable. Meraki is "hardware as a service" so if you don't renew your license, the hardware stops functioning.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 19:07 |
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Any clever ideas to cool this, since I failed to consider heat at all? I think the stuff up top is fine. It's mostly open into a joist cavity, but the Microserver generates a lot of heat. The obvious answer would be a little AV plate fan, but I'm not sure about cutting a 6" hole in the middle of an Ikea shelf, and its ability to bear weight.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 19:18 |
eddiewalker posted:Any clever ideas to cool this, since I failed to consider heat at all? Why not a fan on each side? One to supply and other to exhaust. If you didn't want to do a 6" hole you could probably get away with making slits in the wood and attaching a fan.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 19:21 |
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cage-free egghead posted:Why not a fan on each side? One to supply and other to exhaust. If you didn't want to do a 6" hole you could probably get away with making slits in the wood and attaching a fan. One side is an outside wall, the other is a little stub wall enclosing a metal support post. Actually wondering what would happen if I just ran a plate fan to suck air from the bottom shelf up to the top now. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Aug 5, 2019 |
# ? Aug 5, 2019 19:23 |
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eddiewalker posted:One side is an outside wall, the other is a little stub wall enclosing a metal support post. Could you mount two fans on the right door, one pushing in and one pulling out, with a couple vents drilled in the shelf in the middle to allow air to circulate a little?
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 20:49 |
eddiewalker posted:One side is an outside wall, the other is a little stub wall enclosing a metal support post. Oh I totally didn't notice it was perfectly snug in the wall. IIRC, it's better to have exhaust-only than supply-only but either is not ideal. Intake will bring in cooler air, but will lead to much more dust buildup while exhaust simply expels warmer air and will create negative pressure and fresh air will come from cracks in between the doors, boards, etc.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 21:02 |
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MiskatonicAthletic posted:TL;DR: recommend me a switch for a <15 person business network with 5 VoIP lines, that can be installed and/or managed by a ham-handed machinist. As an anecdotal data point, at my last job we installed UniFi switches for a company that is very similar to yours and they've had no issues with them, aside from when the roof leaked and killed one of them (one of the switches, not a person). I've found that setting up Meraki gear to be less troublesome than UniFi equipment, mostly with device adoption issues, but both are relatively simple if you know even a little bit about networking and can follow directions.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 21:05 |
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eddiewalker posted:Any clever ideas to cool this, since I failed to consider heat at all? Just rip 10mm off the back of the shelf so the heat can go around it
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 22:03 |
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CrazyLittle posted:Meraki is "hardware as a service" so if you don't renew your license, the hardware stops functioning. It actually doesn't stop functioning, you just can no longer make any configuration changes, so you're stuck on whatever the last configuration was.
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# ? Aug 5, 2019 22:19 |
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https://documentation.meraki.com/zGeneral_Administration/Licensing/Licensing_FAQ#Q:_What_happens_when_my_license_runs_out.3F posted:Q: What happens when my license runs out?
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 00:12 |
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Is pure video feed (no recording or poo poo like that) possible with the UniFi cameras? My new workspace has me sitting with my back to the apartment door (and to the rest of the living room) so I keep getting snuck-up upon and screaming loudly when I realize there's someone sanding there (), I'd like to mount a camera in the back of the bookshelf which faces the living room and forms the back of my work-corner. Do they make a table mount for the G3 Flex? I could just get a corner monitor mirror but those are so dorky? Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Aug 6, 2019 |
# ? Aug 6, 2019 01:17 |
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Actuarial Fables posted:In what ways are you looking to expand your network management? Late getting back to this, sorry. I'm just trying to improve my ability to see what's connected where and make sure things haven't exploded. I have two Archer C7s (one in bridge to the first) serving as upstairs and downstairs wireless access points (Or just routers? I've never been 100% on the terminology.). The UI isn't amazing and I have to reboot the master router/AP for each change to its setup. I currently have DHCP being handled by a RasPi running Pihole in addition to its normal adblocking duties. I'm in the process of expanding my network setup, so I thought I'd looking into the UniFi thing as it seemed popular and it could be run on one of my spare RasPis; note that I didn't really know what it did at the time and was using this as an excuse to try and sort that out. Right now I'm getting by fine with the Pihole's web interface for management, so I think I'm pretty OK. Always looking for new stuff to try though. In semi related matters, VPNs. I've got Nord running in a few clients, but I've heard some interesting stuff about WireGuard and figured it would be nice to see my PiAware stuff when out and about. Just so I have my ducks in a row, I'm going to need to use some Static IP type service to point to the Pi on my network so I can hit it when remote. I assume a port or two will need to be forwarded as well. Does that track? As always, small words if at all possible. Illustrations are appreciated.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 01:50 |
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Schadenboner posted:Is pure video feed (no recording or poo poo like that) possible with the UniFi cameras? My new workspace has me sitting with my back to the apartment door (and to the rest of the living room) so I keep getting snuck-up upon and screaming loudly when I realize there's someone sanding there (), I'd like to mount a camera in the back of the bookshelf which faces the living room and forms the back of my work-corner. Do they make a table mount for the G3 Flex? The mirror is the correct answer.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 03:32 |
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astral posted:The mirror is the correct answer. But BORAT VOICE MY WIFE and our tiny hu-mon will think I'm an dork...
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 13:47 |
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What you keep on your desk should be a reflection of yourself. Besides, I think it would be worse if you had a video feed on your monitors at all time of the room behind you.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 14:50 |
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Schadenboner posted:But BORAT VOICE MY WIFE and our tiny hu-mon will think I'm an dork... Pretty sure they already do. Own it!
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 14:57 |
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Warbird posted:I have two Archer C7s (one in bridge to the first) serving as upstairs and downstairs wireless access points (Or just routers? I've never been 100% on the terminology.). I would refer to the one connected to your modem as a router + access point (or wireless router I guess), and the 2nd one just as an access point. Label your devices on what services they currently provide, not what they're capable of. quote:In semi related matters, VPNs. I've got Nord running in a few clients, but I've heard some interesting stuff about WireGuard and figured it would be nice to see my PiAware stuff when out and about. Just so I have my ducks in a row, I'm going to need to use some Static IP type service to point to the Pi on my network so I can hit it when remote. I assume a port or two will need to be forwarded as well. Does that track? As always, small words if at all possible. Illustrations are appreciated. If you're going to install a Wireguard on your Pi, then you would have to set a static IP address on the Pi itself, or have a reserved DHCP entry so that it always uses the same IP address. In the configuration of Wireguard you'll set up ports that it'll listen on - those are the ports that you'll forward on your Router. Alternatively, your router does support being an OpenVPN server and you could go that route (ha) instead. https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/1237/
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 16:40 |
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Gyrotica posted:Pretty sure they already do. Own it! Weirdly I can only find clip mirrors on Amazon not the ones that just sit in the corner (they usually have like velcro strips or something).
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 16:57 |
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May depend on the device then. I've got several Meraki switches that are long out of service that still function fine as dumb switches, and a number of customers with wireless access points that still function fine out of service.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 17:08 |
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It's good to know if they've changed their approach, blowing the network up did seem a bit hostile considering the kit isn't cheap
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 17:19 |
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Which edgeOS version is currently recommended for the ER-X? I heard that 2.*.* Is still pretty flaky but I saw they just released 1.10.10 and I'm currently on 1.10.8.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 17:56 |
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Yeah, 2.x is unsupported on the ER-X for now. While part of me hopes they'll fix that, as long as they keep the 1.x line updated (which is all 1.10.10 is) then I don't really care. Given that it's been out for two weeks and hasn't been recalled, I'm upgrading mine to it.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 19:33 |
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Actuarial Fables posted:I would refer to the one connected to your modem as a router + access point (or wireless router I guess), and the 2nd one just as an access point. Label your devices on what services they currently provide, not what they're capable of. Way ahead of you there. Half the reason I was asking in the first place was that setting and maintaining DHCP settings was annoying. I’ll go look into the rest of that. Any good static IP services that are worth a hoot? Preferably cheap/free. Fake edit: I have a Debian box on Digital Ocean that I’m not doing much with. Any reason I couldn’t utilize it’s static IP somehow?
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 20:03 |
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Warbird posted:Way ahead of you there. Half the reason I was asking in the first place was that setting and maintaining DHCP settings was annoying. I’ll go look into the rest of that. Any good static IP services that are worth a hoot? Preferably cheap/free. If your ISP provides you an actual public IP address and not carrier-grade NAT, then you can just use your home's public IP. The disadvantage to this would be that most home ISPs give out dynamic addresses so it may change in the future, but if you use a Dynamic DNS service like https://freedns.afraid.org/ then you can get around this limitation by using a domain name that automatically updates to your current home IP address.
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# ? Aug 6, 2019 20:27 |
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Following up from a previous topic where i asked about IoT and other network security, i decided the best path forward at the moment is to run cat5a around the house where I need it and hardwire stuff to my managed switch. For further along future proofing, i am going to run cable to future Ubiquiti access point locations, which is probably just one location, as well as spots i want to pop security cameras up. A single cable doing POE is better then a proper outlet and conversion to power.. but i wonder : 1) Has anyone used POE to micro usb converters like those here ? This would be specifically for Wyze cameras 2) Are there any pitfalls in making my own cable to include POE? I have punched down / added ends to Ethernet before.. so long as I follow the standard the power will flow , right ? 3) Can POE and non POE devices live in the same port ? meaning, can i plug my hardwired printer into a POE port without issue ? Trying to run the balancing act between a new managed POE switch, ports, price, and future needs.
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# ? Aug 7, 2019 19:30 |
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Roundboy posted:cat5a Cat5e, Cat6, or Cat6A?
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# ? Aug 7, 2019 20:03 |
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Roundboy posted:3) Can POE and non POE devices live in the same port ? meaning, can i plug my hardwired printer into a POE port without issue ? Standards compliant PoE switches (IEEE 802.3af, 802.3at, and 802.3bt) follow a test/negotiation process before PoE power is provided through the port, making it safe to plug in whatever you want. There are some non-standard PoE switches that provide "passive" (always on) power - those may be dangerous to non-passive PoE and non-PoE devices.
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# ? Aug 7, 2019 21:38 |
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Roundboy posted:2) Are there any pitfalls in making my own cable to include POE? I have punched down / added ends to Ethernet before.. so long as I follow the standard the power will flow , right ? As long as you get the correct pinout and a solid punch down, there shouldn't be a big difference in the cables you terminate and commercial ones. Issues like removing too much twist matter much more for data signal integrity than for DC power.
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# ? Aug 8, 2019 01:07 |
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Cat5e. Made a stupid typo. Speaking of power and data, I want to run cables through conduit. I'm going to try and remember the general rule, it's power and data in parallel runs is problematic, and should cross perpendicular where possible? Or am I overthinking and just bundle all the cable together where appropriate and keep it away from house power runs?
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# ? Aug 8, 2019 14:32 |
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Roundboy posted:Cat5e. Made a stupid typo. POE and non-POE drops are fine bundled together. Keep them from running parallel to house power or fluorescent fixtures as much as possible.
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# ? Aug 8, 2019 16:05 |
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# ? May 17, 2024 19:28 |
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Roundboy posted:Cat5e. Made a stupid typo. Non-low voltage (house power /120vac) cannot share with low voltage (ethernet/telephone/fiber/signaling - including powered ethernet, it's only 48vdc unless you're ubiquity in which case gently caress you). You're probably thinking about ballasts and such which are to be avoided.
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# ? Aug 8, 2019 16:05 |