Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Thanks for the advice guys!

Cross-posting with 40K thread;

Professor Shark posted:

Yesterday I posted about how I had recently discovered that GW had produced a miniature for a race called the Pisceans (aka Fish People) back in Rogue Trader days:



Because I am bad with money and thought it was awesome, I discovered that a sculptor who works for Knightmare Miniatures had been putting together little Kickstarter projects that recreated old school GW miniatures; mostly Space Orcs, but also a few of the other hilarious and mind-boggling miniatures (such as that Tyranid Centaur thing). Back in '16 he did a run that included two Piscean models, which I purchased from e-minis.net a few minutes ago!:





(Not my pictures)

I don't know what I'll do with them, but I'd really like to include them in my old school, fun, Rouge Trader inspired army!

More things to paint! My father has worked with Silver Hake for the majority of his career, so I thought it would be fun to go with them as inspiration:



Any advice on how I can recreate this?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon
Inks blended over silver. You'll want to do a bunch of thin layers, mottling the effect on top.

MrFlibble
Nov 28, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Fallen Rib
How i'd do it myself is paint the body grey and then simulate the scales by stippling on a silver - then just use a contrast paint / ink over that and bam.

I haven't painted as many models as Beer though, and to be honest i'm lying because I don't think I could summon the effort to paint a scale effect.

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



I'm an amateur so grain of salt and all that but yeah I'd basecoat in silver with a touch of blue mixed into it, then glaze inks onto the top half working from light to dark, with the splotches done by stippling some slightly-less-watered down ink. Colorwise, maybe Carroburg Crimson for the glazes with a darker brown ink mixed in as you work your way up?

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
Converted ETB Intercessor into a Smash Captain. DIY chapter.



More views.

Zark the Damned
Mar 9, 2013

Professor Shark posted:

Thanks for the advice guys!

Cross-posting with 40K thread;


More things to paint! My father has worked with Silver Hake for the majority of his career, so I thought it would be fun to go with them as inspiration:



Any advice on how I can recreate this?

Inks / Contrast over Silver would likely be the easiest method. Maybe try the gem paints too? That's what I used for my semi-recent Earth Fish:

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

Hixson posted:

i took some new photos of my lightning today. My old ones were trash




How did you do the lighting bolts?

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer
:frogsiren::siren: Warlord WIP :siren::frogsiren:

Still to do: Highlight the red and bone segments, highlight the silver nodules on the shoulders, pick out another couple of lenses, minor clean up, shade/highlight/clean up the head, etc. The left foot is raised and resting on a blob of greenstuff for now. Later, once I get around to final basing, it'll be resting on a pile of rubble.

I also have this goddamn pile of arms and weapons :shepface:



I'll be honest, I love this kit. I think this warlord is the single best model GW has ever produced. There are a couple of small things that could've been improved, such as cables being picked out better, but they're so minor they're unimportant and are likely a limitation of plastic versus resin at this scale. It takes forever to paint though. So much goddamn trim. I worked on one reaver and four warhounds simultaneously before this and that somehow felt like less of a slog. I think that's hindisght screwing with me though. Here's a little size comparison:


I also sincerely love the Solaria color scheme. It is such a nice break from the constant checkers and stripes that cover my 30k Dark Angels. Their heraldry is relatively simple and they have that beautiful mottled green. :swoon: Heads and weapons are just red, but I've still got a lot left to do.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




Any advice on dealing with forking brush tips? I discovered that my main brushes have suddenly split and can't hold themselves together. Which may have been because I was a bit too vigorous cleaning mine a while ago.

Ayn Marx
Dec 21, 2012

Safety Factor posted:

:frogsiren::siren: Warlord WIP :siren::frogsiren:

Still to do: Highlight the red and bone segments, highlight the silver nodules on the shoulders, pick out another couple of lenses, minor clean up, shade/highlight/clean up the head, etc. The left foot is raised and resting on a blob of greenstuff for now. Later, once I get around to final basing, it'll be resting on a pile of rubble.

I also have this goddamn pile of arms and weapons :shepface:



I'll be honest, I love this kit. I think this warlord is the single best model GW has ever produced. There are a couple of small things that could've been improved, such as cables being picked out better, but they're so minor they're unimportant and are likely a limitation of plastic versus resin at this scale. It takes forever to paint though. So much goddamn trim. I worked on one reaver and four warhounds simultaneously before this and that somehow felt like less of a slog. I think that's hindisght screwing with me though. Here's a little size comparison:


I also sincerely love the Solaria color scheme. It is such a nice break from the constant checkers and stripes that cover my 30k Dark Angels. Their heraldry is relatively simple and they have that beautiful mottled green. :swoon: Heads and weapons are just red, but I've still got a lot left to do.

This crazy and cool in equal proportions. Looks very striking

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



Cooked Auto posted:

Any advice on dealing with forking brush tips? I discovered that my main brushes have suddenly split and can't hold themselves together. Which may have been because I was a bit too vigorous cleaning mine a while ago.

I clean/massage my forked brushes with some toothpaste. Put a little on your palm, and start "painting" it around, massaging the brush between your fingers every now and then. Rinse well, and you should have a minty-fresh, un-forked paintbrush.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
Painted up 5 more Dryads today making the unit 10 strong and legal for their game.



Alongside them I did some reinforcements along with them too



The gang is now ready:

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Safety Factor posted:

:frogsiren::siren: Warlord WIP :siren::frogsiren:

Still to do: Highlight the red and bone segments, highlight the silver nodules on the shoulders, pick out another couple of lenses, minor clean up, shade/highlight/clean up the head, etc. The left foot is raised and resting on a blob of greenstuff for now. Later, once I get around to final basing, it'll be resting on a pile of rubble.

I also have this goddamn pile of arms and weapons :shepface:



I'll be honest, I love this kit. I think this warlord is the single best model GW has ever produced. There are a couple of small things that could've been improved, such as cables being picked out better, but they're so minor they're unimportant and are likely a limitation of plastic versus resin at this scale. It takes forever to paint though. So much goddamn trim. I worked on one reaver and four warhounds simultaneously before this and that somehow felt like less of a slog. I think that's hindisght screwing with me though. Here's a little size comparison:


I also sincerely love the Solaria color scheme. It is such a nice break from the constant checkers and stripes that cover my 30k Dark Angels. Their heraldry is relatively simple and they have that beautiful mottled green. :swoon: Heads and weapons are just red, but I've still got a lot left to do.

This looks fantastic, I really love the effect you have gotten on the armour plates.

Loomer
Dec 19, 2007

A Very Special Hell
I have discovered the joy of water effects - a discount pot of MIG Slow River - and now half my Rohan army is on swamp bases.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Z the IVth posted:

Converted ETB Intercessor into a Smash Captain. DIY chapter.



More views.


Everything about this is clean as hell and I love it.


Safety Factor posted:

:frogsiren::siren: Warlord WIP :siren::frogsiren:

Still to do: Highlight the red and bone segments, highlight the silver nodules on the shoulders, pick out another couple of lenses, minor clean up, shade/highlight/clean up the head, etc. The left foot is raised and resting on a blob of greenstuff for now. Later, once I get around to final basing, it'll be resting on a pile of rubble.

I also have this goddamn pile of arms and weapons :shepface:



I'll be honest, I love this kit. I think this warlord is the single best model GW has ever produced. There are a couple of small things that could've been improved, such as cables being picked out better, but they're so minor they're unimportant and are likely a limitation of plastic versus resin at this scale. It takes forever to paint though. So much goddamn trim. I worked on one reaver and four warhounds simultaneously before this and that somehow felt like less of a slog. I think that's hindisght screwing with me though. Here's a little size comparison:


I also sincerely love the Solaria color scheme. It is such a nice break from the constant checkers and stripes that cover my 30k Dark Angels. Their heraldry is relatively simple and they have that beautiful mottled green. :swoon: Heads and weapons are just red, but I've still got a lot left to do.

I dig the mottled green look. What's your gold recipe, by the way?

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

I dig the mottled green look. What's your gold recipe, by the way?
It's brass, actually. :v: I got into using it with my 30k DA and really fell in love with it. I use it pretty much anywhere I would have previously used gold on them and save the gold for officers and occasional sergeants. With my titans, Solaria is actually supposed to have silver trim going off of their art in the Titandeath campaign book, but I thought that would blend too much with the silver skeleton so I fell back on my brass. I'm really glad I did and I like how well it sets off the greens without being overpowering.

Anyways, it's basecoated with Runelord Brass (over black if possible), washed with Nuln Oil, highlighted with Skullcrusher Brass (a really reddish brass, it's an odd color) and then Sycorax Bronze. I then clean up any big, flat areas with a thinned coat of Runelord Brass.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Safety Factor posted:

Anyways, it's basecoated with Runelord Brass (over black if possible), washed with Nuln Oil, highlighted with Skullcrusher Brass (a really reddish brass, it's an odd color) and then Sycorax Bronze. I then clean up any big, flat areas with a thinned coat of Runelord Brass.

Right on. I'm hoping the golds I have already are a close approximation.

Safe to assume the mottled look came through sponging? I've done it in the past, mind, but I've also seen people do it using stippling via brushes.

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

Right on. I'm hoping the golds I have already are a close approximation.

Safe to assume the mottled look came through sponging? I've done it in the past, mind, but I've also seen people do it using stippling via brushes.
Yeah, the green is almost all sponging. I use a glaze to tie things together, but that's about it. I just use KR foam or whatever, rip it into small pieces, and hold it in a pair of tweezers. I posted a full list of the paints I use in the 40k thread earlier:

Safety Factor posted:

Thanks. The green is actually really simple, I sponge up from Caliban Green to Deepkin Flesh; each layer is paler than the last. I'll include the full list of steps for you.
Bascoat the panels Caliban Green
Sponge the following colors, drawing towards the center or other focal point as they get lighter
Castellan Green
Loren Forest
Elysian Green
Nurgling Green
Deepkin Flesh
Glaze thinned Waywatcher Green (50/50 glaze/medium) over entire panels to tie the greens together (:rip: GW glazes, but I've got a stash and one pot pre-thinned)
Sponge Deepkin Flesh one final time towards the center/focal point
Then it's brass for the trim and recess shading at the edges with Nuln Oil. Followed by endless trim highlighting.

I know it looks like a lot of steps, but sponging is really fast and you can do an entire titan's panels at once. Hell, I did five at once for my venator maniple. :shepface:

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Alright, this should be an ok scheme



now to uh



40 of them.
And then the riders and bases.



Well, let's hope they're a super competitive unit in the game so and worth it! Only had one game so far.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Well, let's hope they're a super competitive unit in the game so and worth it!

I'm not sure how to put this...at least they look super dope!

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Mikey Purp posted:

I'm not sure how to put this...at least they look super dope!

poo poo. Well, at least I have a ton of kroxigors and an old one on a carnosaur too. As long as they're top tier it should all balance out.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Back in my day the elves were the ones with bows and the trees just thumped people. The whole fantasy world has gone crazy!

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Vallejo chipping medium question, why might the top layer start crackling as it dries in some cases but not others? I've got 2 colours drying over a medium layer at the moment and one is already forming cracks everywhere and the other is still a solid coat. It's not necessarily an issue but for future reference it would be good to know what causes it to behave like that.

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Mr Teatime posted:

Vallejo chipping medium question, why might the top layer start crackling as it dries in some cases but not others? I've got 2 colours drying over a medium layer at the moment and one is already forming cracks everywhere and the other is still a solid coat. It's not necessarily an issue but for future reference it would be good to know what causes it to behave like that.

I’ve noticed I get the crackling effect when I use more flow improver and spray a heavier initial coat. If you do thinner progressive coats to build up over the top of the chipping medium you shouldn’t get the crackling.

Although often times I’m purposefully making the paint crackle. It’s a neat trick

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Hixson posted:

I’ve noticed I get the crackling effect when I use more flow improver and spray a heavier initial coat. If you do thinner progressive coats to build up over the top of the chipping medium you shouldn’t get the crackling.

Although often times I’m purposefully making the paint crackle. It’s a neat trick

I did possibly use too much airbrush flow improver with the crackled paint, I guess thats the issue. Do I especially need to give this a varnish coat after the chipping is done before working over the top of it? If it's been left to dry overnight am I still going to be activating the medium when I try and paint?

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Mr Teatime posted:

I did possibly use too much airbrush flow improver with the crackled paint, I guess thats the issue. Do I especially need to give this a varnish coat after the chipping is done before working over the top of it? If it's been left to dry overnight am I still going to be activating the medium when I try and paint?

I usually varnish before i paint over the top. I don't think you explicitly need to though

Icon Of Sin
Dec 26, 2008



Did a full-army glamour-shot for my Hoth-themed troops. Last squad in the back is WiP, but everyone else is done. When Vader is released as an Operative for Legion, this is what I’ll be running :getin:



Veers, Vader, generic random officer
4x snowtrooper squads
2x e-web heavy blasters

I’ve posted bits and pieces of this army here before, but it feels good to be closing in on the final piece before the whole army is complete. Just 5 more snowies to go :negative:

MrFlibble
Nov 28, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Fallen Rib
So i've almost finished building 5 squig hoppers* for War Cry. I'm a little concerned about the contact points between the base and the model so I was thinking of putting some green stuff over the dirt part of the model base and the actual base to sort of strengthen the connection. Stupid idea? The chaos beasts from the starter set have a similar issue but I actually really like the squig models so I want them as secure as possible.

*Boingrot boss, 2 boingrot bouncers and 2 squig hoppers (with one built with the hopper boss head and weapon so I have full options there)

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Mr Teatime posted:

Vallejo chipping medium question, why might the top layer start crackling as it dries in some cases but not others? I've got 2 colours drying over a medium layer at the moment and one is already forming cracks everywhere and the other is still a solid coat. It's not necessarily an issue but for future reference it would be good to know what causes it to behave like that.

The colour itself can also affect the tendency to crack. When doing my knight I found blues and whites cracked more readily than reds for example.

Devorum
Jul 30, 2005

I need some better brushes. I'm in Saudi Arabia, and the only brushes I can find are cheap Chinese brushes that just aren't up to any task.

Are GW brushes worth their exorbitant price? Can I order decent brushes on Amazon without getting counterfeits?

Here's my first batch of Stormcast, halfway done. I'm following the scheme on Warhammer TV, and it's going well so far except for getting Kantor Blue everywhere because I can't find decent small brushes.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
GW everything is exorbitantly priced. There's a lot of talented people who use cheap brushes a ton, so it's really a question of whether or not you prefer a few brushes or just churning through cheap crap.

The most commonly recommended product is The Masters Brush Soap, easy to find on Amazon. Hugely helpful in extending the life of your brushes.

Eventually once you get the hang of things and want to continue, pick up a sable brush, they hold their tip really well when taken care of. I recently bought a pricy one on sale from $35 for $25 bucks and I'm pretty excited after using it last night.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
For a break from 40k, I did some Donegal Guards from the battletech box set:


richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
Saturday is paint an even bigger tree day



With his lil' friends

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Devorum posted:

I need some better brushes. I'm in Saudi Arabia, and the only brushes I can find are cheap Chinese brushes that just aren't up to any task.

Are GW brushes worth their exorbitant price? Can I order decent brushes on Amazon without getting counterfeits?

Here's my first batch of Stormcast, halfway done. I'm following the scheme on Warhammer TV, and it's going well so far except for getting Kantor Blue everywhere because I can't find decent small brushes.



Will Dick Blick ship to you? Windsor and Newton Series 7s are great. GW brushes are fine if you have no alternative.

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space
I was in the middle of a project when my WN series 7 #1 quit holding a sharp point after about a year of use, so I picked up a citadel small layer brush to get by with. It cost $7 US and for detail work it's just as good. Gotten 6 months of good use out of it so far. I'm still doing base coats and roughing things in with the WN 7. Also using masters brush soap frequently.

Brock Samsonite
Feb 3, 2010

Reality becomes illusory and observer-oriented when you study general relativity. Or Buddhism. Or get drafted.

R0ckfish posted:

For a break from 40k, I did some Donegal Guards from the battletech box set:

These are very well executed robuts!

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Work in progress photos of this dude:




Decided to try out a couple new techniques. First try at NMM. I'm going to build a big dumb scenic base for him to hang out on

Hixson fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Aug 11, 2019

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I'm going to ask a dumb noob question, because it's frustrating me. I'm thinning down paint for layers, and once I have the transparency I think I'm supposed to get, it's just a watery mess when I try to paint with it. Like, droplets of colored water on the mini, even if I try and wipe most of it off the brush. I have to missing something obvious here, aren't I?

JBP
Feb 16, 2017

You've got to know, to understand,
Baby, take me by my hand,
I'll lead you to the promised land.

Funzo posted:

I'm going to ask a dumb noob question, because it's frustrating me. I'm thinning down paint for layers, and once I have the transparency I think I'm supposed to get, it's just a watery mess when I try to paint with it. Like, droplets of colored water on the mini, even if I try and wipe most of it off the brush. I have to missing something obvious here, aren't I?

Simplest response is that you're thinning the paint too much or not shaking the bottle enough. It takes a while to be able to eyeball the right consistency, I still have those moments where I go ah poo poo as I've made the paint is too runny. The paint doesn't have to be so thin you can see the transparency, as it dries it will cling to the model more closely and you'll notice the layer beneath change the colour you've applied. I often think I've made a mistake because my wolves look grey instead of baby blue, then the paint dries completely and the colour becomes correct as the darker blue undercoat shows through.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space

Hixson posted:

Work in progress photos of this dude:




Decided to try out a couple new techniques. First try at NMM. I'm going to build a big dumb scenic base for him to hang out on

The NMM looks great. Who's the dude?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply