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Philthy posted:I was behind what looked like an older "supercar" last night. Maybe mid 2000s-ish? I have no idea what it was, but this was the emblem on the rear. Does it look familiar to anyone? Maybe it was a kit car of some sort. It had the curves of maybe a McLaren or a Lotus, but not as aggressive looking. I hope somebody can recognize this because now it's got me. I know I've seen a logo like this at some time, and now for the life of me I can't place it.
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Aug 7, 2019 00:25
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Or if you don't value your time, could get a full matching set for your car off a junkyard car. Oh, right, I forgot about the junkyards because I a) don't know the etiquette, and b) everybody at the local one has such a thick accent that I can't understand them (and I'm FROM here!) and c) they've never had the model I need parts from, ymmv. shortspecialbus posted:Throw in a 6 way screwdriver and a cheap socket set (metric or SAE, depending on the car) and maybe a couple pliers and/or allen wrenches plus some assorted zip ties, a flashlight, and gorilla tape if you want to make it a bit more useful if a bit larger. It's also not a bad idea to throw a gallon of water in there in the summer and an emergency winter poncho in the winter depending on your climate. I carry a basic toolkit consisting of pretty much the above tools along with jumper cables in a .50 cal ammo can. Even if the kid/SO you're packing it for may not know their way around a wrench, there's likely to a good Samaritan while they're waiting for AAA to show up. Whether that guy knows which end of the socket goes on the bolt is up to chance, though ... Colostomy Bag posted:I think most of us are asking the question of the "why" of what you are doing. My go-to joke was that it's Mike Finnegan's secret account, but I'm pretty sure he does that on the regular. Either way, the answer is "Roadkill fuel cell, probably ratchet-strapped to the bumper." Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Aug 7, 2019 |
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Aug 7, 2019 02:02
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Chillbro Baggins posted:My go-to joke was that it's Mike Finnegan's secret account, but I'm pretty sure he does that on the regular. Either way, the answer is "Roadkill fuel cell, probably ratchet-strapped to the bumper." I didn't want to say it earlier but I busted the piece of poo poo self venting nozzle on my metal can and ordered a non CARB compliant nozzle that's not acceptable for use in a bunch of states, it's OK here in Colorado according to the label. The can was like $40 and I can't get a vented one so drat it I'm drilling it. Those self venting ones all suck and always get gas on me. What good is saving a little vapor when it means spilling all over my mower or truck or car?
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Aug 7, 2019 04:50
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Philthy posted:I was behind what looked like an older "supercar" last night. Maybe mid 2000s-ish? I have no idea what it was, but this was the emblem on the rear. Does it look familiar to anyone? Maybe it was a kit car of some sort. It had the curves of maybe a McLaren or a Lotus, but not as aggressive looking. By the description of the car and the badge I’m going to say a Fisker? Comedy Studebaker option.
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Aug 7, 2019 13:22
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:By the description of the car and the badge I’m going to say a Fisker? It was the Fisker Karma! I remember seeing "Arma" and wondering if this was a milsim car as a stupid joke. I didn't see the K.. The logo is I guess way off, but you still got it! $130k for a car that looks badass and does 0-60 in 5.4 seconds. 50 miles on electric, 300 miles combined.   Thank you! This was driving me NUTS. The designer Henrik Fisker apparently designed the BMW Z8, and a few Aston Martins. Philthy fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Aug 7, 2019 |
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Aug 7, 2019 15:18
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Pretty sick car, plus it doesn't make noise when they start up.
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Aug 7, 2019 15:30
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Hi, I have a vehicle that is running low on coolant I'll need to top up. I have no idea what coolant is in it right now from the previous owner, but it is green. Is it safe to assume that mixing in any other green will be safe? Or should I do a small test mix beforehand to check for any congealing? The engine is a ford 351w transplant.
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Aug 10, 2019 04:30
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tuna posted:Hi, I have a vehicle that is running low on coolant I'll need to top up. I have no idea what coolant is in it right now from the previous owner, but it is green. Is it safe to assume that mixing in any other green will be safe? Or should I do a small test mix beforehand to check for any congealing? The engine is a ford 351w transplant. No, color no longer has any relation to coolant formulation. I don't know what kind you need, but just adding something green won't work.
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Aug 10, 2019 15:38
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Come on. It's a 351w. What are the chances it's anything other than no label green universal coolant?
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Aug 10, 2019 17:20
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StormDrain posted:Come on. It's a 351w. What are the chances it's anything other than no label green universal coolant? This, very very low. Also if you're unsure, grab any of the green poo poo on the shelf that's labeled as compatible with anything. The only real drawback there is you don't get five year coolant lifespan.
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Aug 10, 2019 18:19
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How much topping up does it need? If it's not much just use water
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Aug 10, 2019 20:39
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StormDrain posted:I didn't want to say it earlier but I busted the piece of poo poo self venting nozzle on my metal can and ordered a non CARB compliant nozzle that's not acceptable for use in a bunch of states, it's OK here in Colorado according to the label. The can was like $40 and I can't get a vented one so drat it I'm drilling it. Those self venting ones all suck and always get gas on me. What good is saving a little vapor when it means spilling all over my mower or truck or car? Update, I didn't die. Filled with water and used a step drill bit. Currently it's in the sun to let the water evap.
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Aug 10, 2019 21:19
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Deteriorata posted:No, color no longer has any relation to coolant formulation. I don't know what kind you need, but just adding something green won't work. IOwnCalculus posted:This, very very low. Thanks, I'll be safer about it then. I'll try and find something compatible and definitely do a test before. fridge corn posted:How much topping up does it need? If it's not much just use water Not a ton honestly, but going forward I'd like to know what's in there, obviously. If nothing works out well I guess it can be flushed. Thanks for the info!
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Aug 10, 2019 22:52
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More questions from babbies first AWD forums poster yamdankee ('14 IS350 f sport) I got a new front drivers side tire a couple months ago due to a nail causing a leak. I asked the lexus tech if I was going to have to replace all the tires when i brought it in and he said it's within 2/16th inches since they are all pretty new so it should be ok. I can take more accurate readings with a pressure gauge when I get home from work (I usually leave it in the car but I forgot and left it in the garage). But I noticed the pressure reading in the dash says 36 (cold) for all the tires except the front drivers side one, which is 37. After warming up it's usually 1 or 2 psi higher than the other tires. So not only is it up to 2/16th inches in tread depth larger than the rest of the tires, but it seems to be even higher pressure. I'm embarrassed it took me 2 months to realize this (I don't set the dash info on tire pressure too often, I guess I should start). So my questions are: Did I do any amount of damage to the AWD at all over this period of time or am I worrying over nothing? (I took a few 2-3 hour road trips since then along with short daily commute driving) Is there anything I can/should do to shore up the difference? Maybe put all other tires at 37 psi cold and the new one at 36 cold? Or does going up or down a couple psi not really affect the diameter overall very much? Edit: I just also noticed this maybe a week or so ago but I find my steering wheel having to be turned just ever so slightly to the right to go straight. Maybe like 1 or 2 degrees. This may be related, or not, or not even existent and maybe I'm making it up because I noticed this about my tires. I'm sorry I'm stupid, thanks for reading. yamdankee fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Aug 12, 2019 |
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Aug 12, 2019 15:45
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yamdankee posted:Edit: I just also noticed this maybe a week or so ago but I find my steering wheel having to be turned just ever so slightly to the right to go straight. Maybe like 1 or 2 degrees. This may be related, or not, or not even existent and maybe I'm making it up because I noticed this about my tires. I'm sorry I'm stupid, thanks for reading. This is often caused by the rear toe being out of alignment, which most dealerships are bad at adjusting properly, in my experience. I think you're fine with your tires. People out there never ever check their pressures, and many don't have a gauge on their dash.
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Aug 12, 2019 16:44
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I'm borrowing a car (2014 Kia Sorento) from a friend, and often when I start it the turn signals, high beams, & A/C (and perhaps more that I haven't noticed) stop working. They all work when the car is set to "On", but starting the engine will make them cut out. This doesn't always happen, so currently I just sit there repeatedly starting the car until I get lucky and everything works. I don't really want to put money into getting this fixed as I'm just borrowing the car for a short amount of time, but it's annoying enough that if it's an easy fix I'd like to see if I can do it. Most of the results I found googling pointed to blown fuses, but I'm assuming that isn't the case as everything does work, just not all the time (maybe it is a fuse though, I know next to nothing about cars). Any ideas on what I could check on my own with basically no tools?
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Aug 13, 2019 01:02
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The ignition switch is going bad.
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Aug 13, 2019 02:06
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Motronic posted:The ignition switch is going bad. Looked into this and it's exactly what I couldn't find on my own. Thank you!
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Aug 13, 2019 15:06
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Has anyone here ever shipped a car? I'm trying to figure out the logistics of getting a car shipped across the country (NY to CA). Would appreciate any leads!
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Aug 14, 2019 01:36
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Suicide Watch posted:Has anyone here ever shipped a car? I'm trying to figure out the logistics of getting a car shipped across the country (NY to CA). Would appreciate any leads! I had one shipped to me from Texas to Tennessee. Cost about $1200. The only hassle was getting the dealer to get it moving. No problems otherwise.
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Aug 14, 2019 01:45
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Suicide Watch posted:Has anyone here ever shipped a car? I'm trying to figure out the logistics of getting a car shipped across the country (NY to CA). Would appreciate any leads! I shipped car from Tacoma, WA to Newark, NJ. It was cheaper to go from terminal to terminal. I picked the cheapest option I could get, which meant an open car carrier. I had no problems, car was fine. It cost $800, but this was back in 2000.
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Aug 14, 2019 06:37
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This is an extremely general question, but how would you go about determining the cost per mile of operating a personal car (excluding gas)? I'm being considered for a job where, if I get and accept an offer, I'd have the option of commuting to and from the office by train. However, I just want to make sure that the cost of a monthly rail pass is less than what I pay each month in tolls and gas, as well as the cost of the wear & tear of driving every day (which I'm not sure how to quantify).
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Aug 16, 2019 19:53
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$0.58/mile. https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/irs-issues-standard-mileage-rates-for-2019
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Aug 16, 2019 20:06
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C-Euro posted:This is an extremely general question, but how would you go about determining the cost per mile of operating a personal car (excluding gas)? I'm being considered for a job where, if I get and accept an offer, I'd have the option of commuting to and from the office by train. However, I just want to make sure that the cost of a monthly rail pass is less than what I pay each month in tolls and gas, as well as the cost of the wear & tear of driving every day (which I'm not sure how to quantify). please help save the planet and reduce congestion by commuting by car, even if driving is slightly cheaper yeah I know that's superficially not very AI, but AI loves cars for driving for enjoyment and as a hobby interest in the cars themselves, and commuting is not either of those things.
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Aug 16, 2019 20:11
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Unless a rail pass is obscenely more expensive, I'd get one just to avoid having to drive for my commute every day.
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Aug 16, 2019 20:15
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Leperflesh posted:please help save the planet and reduce congestion by commuting by Yeah the train would for sure be my preferred method of commuting if I get this job, I just want to know for sure that a monthly pass would be cheaper than driving (and if I'm clever I could convince them to pay for it during hiring negotiations). And honestly even without the per-mile cost I think the train might still be cheaper- it's $175/month for the train pass but I'm paying $100 in tolls from driving to and from my current job and almost certainly putting at least $75/month of gas in my car. Just need to get new boots and an umbrella for when it rains  This is also interesting and I didn't realize that the government actually assigned a dollar value to it. Thanks, I think this makes the monthly train pass the cheaper option for sure.
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Aug 16, 2019 20:49
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C-Euro posted:
Pro-tip, you know when you are really working for a lovely company/outfit when they reimburse less then the IRS rate, and make the onus on you to deduct the rest on your personal taxes.
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Aug 16, 2019 21:42
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C-Bangin' it 
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yamdankee posted:Is there anything I can/should do to shore up the difference? Maybe put all other tires at 37 psi cold and the new one at 36 cold? Or does going up or down a couple psi not really affect the diameter overall very much? Overall: You're worrying way too much. The difference in diameter in a street tire between 36 cold and 37 cold is basically nothing. The pressure is slightly different because they just aired up that one and didn't check the others. Every pressure gauge reads slightly differently. At some point when you have all four tires cold, just set them all to the same pressure. Done.
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Aug 16, 2019 22:03
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A faint, rhythmic squeaking that tracks with engine rpm: my fan belt is slipping, isn't it? If so, is it something I can leave for a while, like 5000km? Or should I get it seen to sooner rather than later?
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Aug 17, 2019 00:19
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simplefish posted:A faint, rhythmic squeaking that tracks with engine rpm: my fan belt is slipping, isn't it? Possibly, or it could be a pulley bearing failing, or one of the components driven by the belt. Open the hood with the engine running and direct your ears to different areas of the belt train and see if it seems to be coming from one particular component. Also look for anywhere that could be intermittently rubbing against the belt(s), such as a radiator hose.
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Aug 17, 2019 00:23
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Leperflesh posted:Possibly, or it could be a pulley bearing failing, or one of the components driven by the belt. Open the hood with the engine running and direct your ears to different areas of the belt train and see if it seems to be coming from one particular component. Also look for anywhere that could be intermittently rubbing against the belt(s), such as a radiator hose. Thanks, will do!
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Aug 17, 2019 01:34
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My dad just noticed that his 2014 Volvo V70 D3 is a bit more diesel "chattery" than before. I test drove it and it's not always more chattery, but intermittent (kinda depnding on load) and it's always at 2000-2300-ish RPM. Almost sounds like rod knock (but all diesels sounds kinda rod knocky), but only in that specific RPM range, and not when just revving in neutral. Manual gearbox. Basically, it's sounds morel like a diesel than before at that specific RPM range. Very unspecific, but thought I'd ask if anything in this descriptions jumps out to anyone as a potential cause. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Aug 17, 2019 |
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Aug 17, 2019 10:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Overall: You're worrying way too much. The difference in diameter in a street tire between 36 cold and 37 cold is basically nothing. Relevant: https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-explain-why-you-crashed-your-car-via-this-b-1677523538 tl;dr: Idiot crashes his M4 leaving a Cars and Coffee event, tries to blame it on one tire being 1.5 PSI off, car community collectively points and laughs at his dumb rear end.
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Aug 17, 2019 13:39
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wolrah posted:Relevant: https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-explain-why-you-crashed-your-car-via-this-b-1677523538 Is M4 some sort of Trim level for Mustangs?
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Aug 17, 2019 18:09
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I just got some hail damage on my ~year old impreza (a decent number of big dents sadly). Is there any good resource for what to keep an eye out for when filing a claim and looking for a shop to get it fixed, either good or bad?
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Aug 17, 2019 19:50
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MrOnBicycle posted:My dad just noticed that his 2014 Volvo V70 D3 is a bit more diesel "chattery" than before. I test drove it and it's not always more chattery, but intermittent (kinda depnding on load) and it's always at 2000-2300-ish RPM. Almost sounds like rod knock (but all diesels sounds kinda rod knocky), but only in that specific RPM range, and not when just revving in neutral. Manual gearbox. Injectors can make that sound if they are going bad. I’m not sure of the volvo programming specifics, but on my truck you could check injector balance rates.
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Aug 17, 2019 21:48
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Need some advice on removing a seized rear strut. 2007 Corolla LE. Problem is with my right-rear strut. Circled area A, the upper mount and bearing assembly, is where the seizing is. The internal components are completely frozen up and won't give me any play/wiggle at all to remove it. At first I thought that the strut was seized onto the lower nut in area B but I've checked and that's definitely not the case. It moves. But I can't pry it off at all The other side's strut (rear-left) had enough play and I was able to maneuver and pry it out no problem. But it looks like the right-rear strut has been seized for a while. Internal bearing components are just frozen. I even noticed some gummed up hydraulic fluid. Any tips for removing a seized rear strut? I'm not able to pull the top part downward enough to free it. I swore at it for 3 hours straight and somehow that didn't break it loose. YouTube video here in case it might be helpful. melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 01:49
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melon cat posted:Need some advice on removing a seized rear strut. 2007 Corolla LE. Air hammer or a big hammer with carefully placed blows, or maybe jack it up to relieve some pressure on that bottom mounting point first? Also heat. e: misread and thought it was seized on the lower nut. Not sure how it can get stuck up top, it looks like it already dropped a little?
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Aug 18, 2019 01:51
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opengl128 posted:Air hammer or a big hammer with carefully placed blows, or maybe jack it up to relieve some pressure on that bottom mounting point first? Also heat. Just to clarify- the upper mount and bearing assembly is NOT seized to the vehicle mating surface! So heat is no use, here. I can push the old strut downwards but only about 3/4 an inch. Here's another video demonstrating this. The Upper Mount Bearing Assembly for the hosed up strut can be lowered a bit, but can't pivot/wiggle at all so I can't free it from the control arm. Almost as if the old strut is "frozen". The strut on the other side came out with no issue. But this one only drops a tiny bit, but has no maneuverability whatsoever. And just to emphasize- the lower nut is not stuck to the strut. I'm just getting zero wiggle out of the upper strut mount, as if it's internal bearings are completely seized/hosed. melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 01:55
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I need the roof of my Eurovan recleared or painted or something I don't really care. Anyone know a place within 200 miles of Madison Wisconsin that's acceptable? Or some guy who does it in his back yard barn and is actually pretty capable?
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Aug 18, 2019 01:57
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