kid sinister posted:

Tapcons, use the bit that comes with them. I want to say the small size uses a 5/32" bit? Use appropriate length screws so that you're reaching the required 1" minimum into the concrete itself.

Slugworth posted:

Has the building always been apartments or was it a factory of some sort at some point? Around me, renovating old warehouses/factories into apartments and leaving bits and pieces of the original structure in place for flavor is a big thing.

Wasabi the J posted:

Could they be hanging something on the floor below?

Curiosity posted:

Quick question... if I turn off my window unit ac does it close off airflow from outside?

JEEVES420 posted:

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

It doesn’t bring in air from the outside anyway. It takes the air from inside and removes some heat from it and dumps that heat outside and shoots the cooler air back into the room because it is much more efficient to chill 72 degree air to 70 degrees than it is to try and chill 90 degree air to 70 degrees.

Discospawn posted:

I've been living in the top floor of a historic Los Angeles apartment building for several years now, but there's a feature I've never discovered the purpose of. Along the outward-facing wall and part of a connecting wall, there are these strips of metal screwed or bolted to the wood floor.

Some Pics:
The corner of the 2 walls with these strips


The end of the border strip along the interior wall


Overhead view with foot for scale


Close-up view showing wood sanded down around metal after a century of re-finishes


I had always assumed that this was some kind of attachment to the steel frame of the building, but now that I'm thinking of re-finishing my floors, I can't actually find anything online to confirm that theory. More details:
-The building was constructed in the mid 1920's, and there have not been many changes or modifications over the years. The wood so heavily sanded down around it makes me think it's original, this building's poor maintenance by the property owner means this could also be some kind of cheap & dirty repair of some kind.
-The metal is covered in the same stain & varnish as the hardwood floor. Trying to scrape off the varnish makes it looks like the unfinished metal is actually a brass-ish color.
-The metal strips don't seem to go through the wall, but stop flush with it. Similarly, they seem to go over the wood floor, like the wood strips continue un-cut underneath.
-I don't know whether they are screws or bolts used to attach it, and I'm wary of removing any of them (plus the heads are stripped and filled with varnish, which would make that a chore).

Any insight helps, thanks.

Thumposaurus posted:

Are you sure they just aren't from earthquake rehab?
A lot of the older buildings had to be retro fitted after the last big one out there.
Adam Corolla talks about it a lot on his various podcasts.

Thumposaurus posted:

Are you sure they just aren't from earthquake rehab?
A lot of the older buildings had to be retro fitted after the last big one out there.
Adam Corolla talks about it a lot on his various podcasts.

tangy yet delightful posted:

But actually I did google for 30 seconds and if you click this https://howlingpixel.com/i-en/Seismic_retrofit and scroll to the Techniques section you'll see an old timey earthquake bolt that is obviously different but at the same time looks similar and in the same vein as OPs metal things on the floor.

Curiosity posted:

Ah yes the entire intake vent that isn't blowing at me, right. Thank you!!

Luna posted:

Installing peel and stick vinyl tile over existing vinyl flooring. Is there any prep I should do on the existing floor, like some form of primer?

Nevets posted:

Get the biggest Sharpie you can find and write "Ha Ha Not Done Yet" on the vinyl before you cover it with more vinyl.

Wasabi the J posted:

Holy gently caress

Omne posted:

I got the 3/16” Tapcons, 2 1/4” length. I used the supplied bit, and it really feels like it’s barely attached to anything. Like I used three screws in a bracket, and it moves if I pull on it. So I need the 3 1/2” screws? I could feel the bit going through the concrete so I didn’t miss it behind the drywall

edit: here's a photo of the wall in question. I'm mounting the brackets inside the window, on the sides. https://imgur.com/a/mye4GIw

Phone posted:

My front loader Samsung washer (WF365BTBGWR/A2) that I've had since 2013 has started to leak out of the bottom (I'll poke around when I get an extra set of hands tonight)... this is going to suck and/or be a huge pain in the rear end to fix, isn't it?

Jaded Burnout posted:

I am never going to not post this when the topic comes up, from my kitchen floor when I moved in:

Jaded Burnout posted:

I am never going to not post this when the topic comes up, from my kitchen floor when I moved in:

Jaded Burnout posted:

I am never going to not post this when the topic comes up, from my kitchen floor when I moved in:

Fallom posted:

Those are asbestos tiles at the bottom aren't they

FogHelmut posted:

My neighbor's vacation home burned down in the Paradise fire last year. He recently went back there to see what he could salvage. The only thing left was his Wilton bench vise.



Any ideas how to get it unstuck? He's had it soaking is Kroil for a week. I recommended the 50/50 ATF/acetone blend. He's going to give that a shot as he's out of ideas.

Now that I'm thinking about it, any of the grease that was inside the bearings probably completely carbonized, and it's probably locked in solid.

FogHelmut posted:

My neighbor's vacation home burned down in the Paradise fire last year. He recently went back there to see what he could salvage. The only thing left was his Wilton bench vise.



Any ideas how to get it unstuck? He's had it soaking is Kroil for a week. I recommended the 50/50 ATF/acetone blend. He's going to give that a shot as he's out of ideas.

Now that I'm thinking about it, any of the grease that was inside the bearings probably completely carbonized, and it's probably locked in solid.

Nevets posted:

Get the biggest Sharpie you can find and write "Ha Ha Not Done Yet" on the vinyl before you cover it with more vinyl.

Jaded Burnout posted:

I am never going to not post this when the topic comes up, from my kitchen floor when I moved in:

FogHelmut posted:

My neighbor's vacation home burned down in the Paradise fire last year. He recently went back there to see what he could salvage. The only thing left was his Wilton bench vise.



Any ideas how to get it unstuck? He's had it soaking is Kroil for a week. I recommended the 50/50 ATF/acetone blend. He's going to give that a shot as he's out of ideas.

Now that I'm thinking about it, any of the grease that was inside the bearings probably completely carbonized, and it's probably locked in solid.

FogHelmut posted:

My neighbor's vacation home burned down in the Paradise fire last year. He recently went back there to see what he could salvage. The only thing left was his Wilton bench vise.



Any ideas how to get it unstuck? He's had it soaking is Kroil for a week. I recommended the 50/50 ATF/acetone blend. He's going to give that a shot as he's out of ideas.

Now that I'm thinking about it, any of the grease that was inside the bearings probably completely carbonized, and it's probably locked in solid.

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I was installing a gate between my kitchen and laundry room and one of the screws I was putting into the threshold frame snapped off at the head. It's probably an inch to an inch and a half in there with maybe 3/4 of an inch sticking out. What's going to be the best way to get this thing out? Should I just saw it off? The screw is pretty narrow so not a lot to grip onto with the leatherman pliers I was using but I can buy something else if something in particular will get a better grip on it.