|
My house has a bell! the "Control panel" under it  (I haven't dared flip the switch there yet) The KeY oPeRaTeD acrtivation  Brand  It's either an ancient burglar alarm or ancient fire alarm, I have no idea which and I have no idea if any of it is still live or active. Wanna flip that on switch though and see what happens.
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 16:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 09:09 |
|
|
beep-beep car is go posted:My house has a bell! "Explosion proof" D: Yeah flip da switch
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 16:40
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:a corded drill and masonry bit. This is sort of my initial question. I can't figure out which bit will work with my drill and also accomplish what I need. Like, will this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHVD2XE?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=4ZJZ3GHFZ7PGGTH56AHV
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 17:06
|
|
beep-beep car is go posted:My house has a bell! It's all fun and games until you can't turn it off and it's wired outside of the house panel somehow...
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 17:50
|
|
|
That Works posted:It's all fun and games until you can't turn it off and it's wired outside of the house panel somehow... which is why I haven't flipped the switch.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 17:55
|
|
|
Ok building code is legitimately important and useful and all, but legitimately gently caress the California Green code.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 18:26
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:This is sort of my initial question. I can't figure out which bit will work with my drill and also accomplish what I need. Like, will this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHVD2XE?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=4ZJZ3GHFZ7PGGTH56AHV In principle any masonry bit will work, the only question is whether the end of the shank fits into your drill chuck. In your case, yes I don't see why not. A smooth shank bit would also work, but the reason that has the flat sides is to provide better grip for your chuck. The only common type I know of that wouldn't work as intended would be SDS or SDS+ bits which require a special chuck (but are much more secure and thus better for powerful hammer drills). My SDS+ drill has instructions to not use the hammer function if using a normal drill bit in a normal chuck because the way it's designed means it'll hammer itself to death, but I've had other smaller hammer drills that don't care. Check your drill manual to be sure.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2019 18:49
|
|
|
I've installed 2x safes 2x times each on a concrete slab with a normal "hammer" drill and a masonry bit. It sucks (especially when you hit rebar) but you can do it eventually.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2019 02:42
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:As you embark on this adventure do you know the estimated replacement cost of the structure you're about to repair? Just for those of us playing along at home. Also if you haven't read Kastein's thread you definitely should. Sadly the first several years of it don't have pictures anymore. 10-15,000 dollars all said and done. The house is 80 percent structurally sound after my initial inspection. That's including stuff I don't necessarily need, like moving the front door.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2019 08:15
|
|
|
beep-beep car is go posted:which is why I haven't flipped the switch. I'm getting fire alarm blue balls over here, flip the drat switch! Also, what are those red and white things above the switch and on the exterior panel? Little indicator lights? (Maybe make a non-emergency call to your local fire department first to let them know? On the off chance it is connected via phone line or other method to some external location?)
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2019 16:56
|
|
|
Jaxyon posted:Is there a place/thread for home solar panels? Jaded Burnout posted:This one, I'd say, for general discussion thereof. Where do I even get into this stuff? Plugging it into google get me an overwhelming amount of people who want to scam me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2019 22:31
|
|
|
If also love to learn how to roll my own solar but yeah... That's a big knowledge barrier to even find out if it's a thought worth entertaining.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 00:53
|
|
|
I would not attempt a first time DIY solar project unless you have some meaningful experience with electrical work and you're not planning on connecting it with the grid. If it's a small project for something like a standalone shed with some light bulbs+sockets then that's a bit more manageable, but the consequences for screwing up a full house project w/inverter and some sort of net metering setup are high, potentially much higher than the relatively cheap (and getting cheaper) cost of hiring a professional. One thing to remember for those who haven't priced these out before- if you're in the US the state + federal incentives can frequently cover the majority of the cost of installing the system. -guy who has a 4kw system on his roof that was ~85% subsidized
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 01:24
|
|
|
Yeah solar seems harmless, but it's worth remembering that a system good enough to be useful for a home is no different than messing around with mains power. On the subject of electricals, we were trying to figure out why the light in our second bedroom only intermittently worked, and figured out it only turns on if the master bedroom light is turned on. I suspect some fun things will be found when we get an electrician out to look at sorting that out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 04:42
|
|
|
I'm not so much trying to install my own, as find out good info on people who can do it for me, and what agreements entail, etc.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 11:33
|
|
SetPhazers2Funk posted:I would not attempt a first time DIY solar project unless you have some meaningful experience with electrical work and you're not planning on connecting it with the grid. If it's a small project for something like a standalone shed with some light bulbs+sockets then that's a bit more manageable, but the consequences for screwing up a full house project w/inverter and some sort of net metering setup are high, potentially much higher than the relatively cheap (and getting cheaper) cost of hiring a professional. One thing to remember for those who haven't priced these out before- if you're in the US the state + federal incentives can frequently cover the majority of the cost of installing the system. Just FYI some of the federal tax credits are winding down. Your state may vary. quote:
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 11:38
|
|
|
Does anyone have dishwasher recommendations? I'm currently looking at the Bosch 800 series. I wouldn't mind spending less if possible but I want something that will last. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Aug 14, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 18:04
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Does anyone have dishwasher recommendations? I'm happy with my Miele, but they're quite spendy.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 18:08
|
|
|
In my extremely limited experience, I thought the Miele didn't have heated drying. Possibly the same is true for Bosch. I bought one of the more expensive Kenmore's a few years ago that I think is a rebranded GE model that I'm pretty happy with. I wouldn't buy anything from Sears again due to them being awful, bankrupt, and getting sold a lemon fridge, but the GE dishwasher seems solid. My only complaint is that it doesn't have a dry-only or plate warmer mode that would come in handy for drying bottles I use to ferment/store home brew.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 19:17
|
|
|
I'm amazed at how much better "whatever $500 buys" in dishwashers feels today versus 10 years ago. The GE I installed when I moved in was almost all plastic and I could carry it above my head alone. The GE in the same price range a few months ago took two people to carry. The entire tub is steel, and the fit/finish is way nicer all around.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 19:27
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Does anyone have dishwasher recommendations? Join us... Get the third rack. It seriously doubles the capacity of the dishwasher somehow. Beware the front button models, the buttons snap off every 5-7 years. Get the top buttons.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 19:28
|
|
|
I'd actually suggest avoiding GE dishwashers based off my own experience. Bought a $550 model that at 13 months, right after the ridiculously short 1 year warranty expired, died to the tune of $250 in parts + labor on top of $100 spent diagnosing it. I chucked the piece of junk. Honestly I don't think it even did that good a job cleaning dishes though it was very quiet.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 20:05
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:In my extremely limited experience, I thought the Miele didn't have heated drying. Possibly the same is true for Bosch. I don't specifically know about that but it does have a bunch of "smart" drying features to prevent streaking: https://www.miele.co.uk/domestic/dishwashers-2510.htm?mat=10363920&name=G_6620_SC
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 20:11
|
|
|
Cross post from the Landscaping thread since nobody ever posts there: Since we bought our house back in December, we've noticed ponding water in the way back of the yard under the power lines. Our guess is that the power company compacted the lawn when they were trimming the right-of-way. Since ponding water is gross and I have small kids that I'd prefer don't catch a mosquito borne disease, we decided to get rid of the standing water. Cue: 3 yards of screened topsoil, delivered!  So then I had to shovel it and wheel it in the backyard  Spread it around and rake it level(ish)  Tamp it flat and do another bit if it was still too low  And then 4 hours latter, done!  Note: I'm still a little sore from it and I did it on Saturday.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 20:49
|
|
|
Sometimes inspections/inspectors and building code are extremely loving stupid. Really it's the code, since the inspectors are just doing their job. The California Green Code is one of the dumbest provisions in existence. In order to 'save on residential water', all faucets/showerheads from like the last 20 years are no longer legal, so you can't buy them from Amazon. So instead you have to ship a showerhead to a proxy/friend in another state, who will then ship it to you. They are restricting the max flow of water from shower heads, which is really stupid because the wasted water comes from gardens and almonds and golf courses and other dumb things.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2019 21:39
|
|
|
Whatheck! My parent's crusty old apartment complex has sprinklers go every morning, to keep the blanket of fallen pine needles damp. It's stupid and unnecessary.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 00:20
|
|
|
peanut posted:Whatheck! My parent's crusty old apartment complex has sprinklers go every morning, to keep the blanket of fallen pine needles damp. It's stupid and unnecessary. Your parent don't live in what should be actually a desert. So it's not quite the same.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 00:50
|
|
|
My parents live in Mountain View, CA, which is exactly where we're talking about. California could/should revise its codes to be region/climate specific.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 01:28
|
|
|
beep-beep car is go posted:Tamp it flat and do another bit if it was still too low 
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 01:58
|
|
|
what did I do wrong?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 02:07
|
|
|
beep-beep car is go posted:what did I do wrong? Eh I was half joking. You did good. Tamping down soil like you would prepping for pavers is exactly what you don't want to do -- freshly spread soil is as ideally non-compacted as it gets, and so going through and packing it down is kind of a silly "own goal" in the war against soil compaction. I'm assuming you just tapped it in lightly and didn't really pack it down so much that you actually needed that tool, though, so it's probably fine. Ideally what you'd do is just throw it down and push/brush it around, then keep on repeating until it's roughly level. Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_nvzs1dCNw but you are right that if you do that it IS going to settle and leave a low spot again, and your desire to not have to go back and do it again is understandable.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 02:25
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Eh I was half joking. You did good. I might’ve thrown in a bit of sand to help drainage in that spot.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 08:52
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Join us... Get the third rack. It seriously doubles the capacity of the dishwasher somehow. Beware the front button models, the buttons snap off every 5-7 years. Get the top buttons. I think I posted about my bosch in here? it's tight af and definitely has heated drying, just buy one
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 13:29
|
|
|
peanut posted:My parents live in Mountain View, CA, which is exactly where we're talking about. OK, I have purchased a $7 CALIFORNIA GREEN CODE 2016 compliant shower head from Home Depot and 'asked my contractors' to 'install it permanently', with final inspection on Friday. I have also asked my contractor to 'permanently install' dimmers on every loving light in the house, because it needs to follow the CALIFORNIA GREEN CODE 2016 Section 150.0.k listed here. https://ww2.energy.ca.gov/2015publications/CEC-400-2015-037/CEC-400-2015-037-CMF.pdf And I'm not joking, the relevant section says: quote:J. In bathrooms, garages, laundry rooms, and utility rooms, at least one luminaire in each of these spaces
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2019 18:24
|
|
|
Is this why so many houses don't have overhead lighting and need floor lamps instead? ?!?!
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2019 00:24
|
|
|
peanut posted:Is this why so many houses don't have overhead lighting and need floor lamps instead? ?!?! Depends on what houses you are talking about. Overhead lighting wasn't a thing until relatively recently. (relatively in the perspective of homes that still exist in many areas of the US)
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2019 00:27
|
|
|
My experience is mostly California, where everybody lives in "starter homes" built in the 60s, mediocre apartments built in the 70s, or McMansions. Everyone (I know) has floor/table lamps outside of the kitchen and bathroom, and sits in the dark to conserve electricity, it sucks lol
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2019 01:14
|
|
|
I have literally never seen a house where all the non-hallway overhead lights were wired with dimmers. My house has one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2019 01:28
|
|
|
So yeah, 60 and 70s in CA (the US in general) was not full of can lights in the ceiling. Starting with the 70s and 80s we began to see those awful single point source boob lights in the middle of rooms and they are truly awful because everything is in a shadow and a bunch of floor/table lamps are better in basically every way. Especially when many of the outlets for the room are switched.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2019 01:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 09:09 |
|
|
Motronic posted:So yeah, 60 and 70s in CA (the US in general) was not full of can lights in the ceiling. Starting with the 70s and 80s we began to see those awful single point source boob lights in the middle of rooms and they are truly awful because everything is in a shadow and a bunch of floor/table lamps are better in basically every way. Especially when many of the outlets for the room are switched. Yup, my house was built in 1978, and it's got a boob light in every room and hallway except the livingroom (no light but does have a set of switched outlets) and dining room (hanging monstrosity over the table)
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2019 15:00
|
|
