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porktree posted:I got some cheap PLA filament and was trying it out on my Ender 3 - and it started to shrink and pull away from the board - porktree posted:That's the first time I've seen it; I have a half dozen other rolls of various colors with no issue. I'll bump the bed temp and print a skirt and see if I overcome. Porktree is OP here regarding the curling issue, so yeah you're referring to the wrong post. Edit: Seriously, thread dwellers: "Buy a Prusa" is not helpful. You're essentially just saying "gently caress off, pleb". It's well within the realm of possibility to make an Ender (or whatever cheap printer) run just fine, especially with PLA of all things. armorer fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Aug 13, 2019 |
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Aug 13, 2019 20:34
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- I've printed a couple of things since with no issue (different filament) so I don't think it's a printer issue (platen set to 55).
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For most bed adhesion issues, two things will fix most problems - 1. Glue stick 2. Raft One or the other usually works but both in tandem always works for me.
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Aug 13, 2019 21:56
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Did you miss this bit? 75% of my issues came from the mantra "the bed is not level" - because that was the hardest part to learn. My warping issues are also not machine related - the only place I can put it is next to the the fridge in the dining room, between the front and back doors (UK houses are smaaaall) so it gets some random temp gusts that cause issues. The brim is easy to remove now I've got the settings right, and protects against my wife deciding she needs to open every door in the house every five seconds on a cold day. armorer posted:Edit: Seriously, thread dwellers: "Buy a Prusa" is not helpful. You're essentially just saying "gently caress off, pleb". It's well within the realm of possibility to make an Ender (or whatever cheap printer) run just fine, especially with PLA of all things. This. the Ender 3 is the best printer I can afford. telling me I should spend money I can't justify just comes off as arrogant. "just buy something better that's three-four times the price" is not an option.
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Aug 14, 2019 08:34
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Religiius levelling, adjusting Z offset and adding painters tape have made my ender 3 print very consistently and nice. Another thing that helps a ton with complex first layers is reducing jerk.
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Aug 14, 2019 14:21
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SEKCobra posted:Religiius levelling, adjusting Z offset and adding painters tape have made my ender 3 print very consistently and nice. This is one of the bad things about the ender 3 and part of the tradeoff you're making by not spending 4.5x as much on a prusa. It's the questionable QA...you're not ever sure what the machine you bought is going to be like. I checked and leveled my Ender 3 many times the first week of prints because everywhere you read or see about the importance of leveling. Then I realized I was wasting my time because I didn't really have to make any adjustments when I did it. So I stopped doing it and its been fine over the last couple dozen prints without any leveling done. I print on the stock bed. I don't use rafts, brims, skirts. I haven't had to adjust or calibrate anything on the printer.
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Aug 14, 2019 16:54
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Many people who have constant leveling problems just don't have enough spring tension, and either need to lower the endstop or get beefier springs.
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Aug 14, 2019 17:02
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to be honest, I'd just go with something like the th3d solid mounts on the bed and then use an auto levelling system. it's not that expensive and upgrade and clears up so many headaches.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:05
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I swapped my ender 3 bed spring for some stronger yellow ones that were recommended online, and start leveling with them compressed all the way. I haven't had to tweak a leveling wheel more than maybe a half a turn in a while. I just watch the start of the print to make sure the first layer is going down okay, and then walk away.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:13
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I can report that I have finally reached first layer nirvana. Another annoying thing has come up though: printing large, flat objects, the final move of the extruder to (0,0) yields an unsigthly line of schmoo on my prints. Is there a way, in Cura, to make the Z go way up before homing (or not home at all)?
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Aug 15, 2019 14:42
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bolind posted:I can report that I have finally reached first layer nirvana. yeah there should be text boxes in your slicer options to put some custom Gcode at the start and end of your normal slicing gcode. There is probably already some stuff in there, so use that as a starting point. Note what your printer does when it starts/ends a print and try to find the command in the Gcode that makes it do that. Mine just raises the print head 10mm from its current position and sends the bed as far forward as possible so I can get the glass plate off nice and easy. You could tell yours to raise 10mm and then go to 0,0. You just need to look up the Gcode for moving in the Z axis, since homing to 0,0 is already working. I had absolutely zero idea what I was doing and it was pretty simple to do. I just inserted a line before the command that shut my extruder/hotbed off, luckily all the default Gcode in there was commented.
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Aug 15, 2019 15:00
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Yeah, custom start/end GCode is really useful. My start code primes the nozzle, wipes it off, then starts the print. My end code raises the head, homes it, and lowers the bed fully. It also shuts off the printer after 60 minutes, thanks to OctoPi and the Enclosure plugin. If I really put some time into it, I'd have it text/email me when the job is done too.
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Aug 15, 2019 15:16
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sharkytm posted:Yeah, custom start/end GCode is really useful. My start code primes the nozzle, wipes it off, then starts the print. My end code raises the head, homes it, and lowers the bed fully. It also shuts off the printer after 60 minutes, thanks to OctoPi and the Enclosure plugin. If I really put some time into it, I'd have it text/email me when the job is done too. I have a telegram bot that octoprint talks to that sends me a pic at the start and end of a print, it's pretty cool lol
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Aug 15, 2019 15:19
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bolind posted:I can report that I have finally reached first layer nirvana. I haven't tried it, but the cura setting for "combing: not in skin" may fix this for you.
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Aug 15, 2019 15:21
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bolind posted:I can report that I have finally reached first layer nirvana. Like others have said, lookup starting gcode on YouTube or the like. Mine homes, bed auto bed levels, and then runs a priming line on the far edge of the bed. Then it 0s the Extruder, raises the Z and starts the print.
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Aug 15, 2019 15:57
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So, we've been talking about abs a little here recently, but something popped up in the past few days in my new feeds that caught my attention. Prusa has expanded their prusament line. It used to only offer petg and pla filaments. But they now have a selection of asa filaments on offer. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs/
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Aug 15, 2019 16:00
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Hasn't ASA been around awhile? Or am I thinking of something else?
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Aug 15, 2019 16:12
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Thermopyle posted:Hasn't ASA been around awhile? Or am I thinking of something else? ASA has been around for decades, yes. It's just been fuckoff expensive.
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Aug 15, 2019 17:00
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This is like when MakerBot did the whole "ABS rules, PLA sucks!" "PLA rules, ABS is experimental!" "PLA sucks, use ABS!" runaround
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Aug 15, 2019 17:49
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ASA is essentially UV-resistant ABS. Still warps and poo poo.
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Aug 15, 2019 17:57
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Yeah, I didn't mean they coughed up a new material. Just saying prusa added asa to their prusament line. So the common materials for fdm are covered by them now (pla, petg, and now asa). I've only used their pla though because the galaxy black is pretty sharp looking.
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Aug 15, 2019 18:43
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Can anyone recommend a 3D pen? Amazon is recommending Tecboss but I was wondering if anyone here had something they liked.
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Aug 16, 2019 00:46
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CarForumPoster posted:I bought the AxiDraw 2.5D pen plotter and it is loving dope. Super easy to set up. Using it from Inkscape worked well. Getting close to never writing another Christmas card again. Just drop that poo poo in from a CSV. Yeah the AxiDraw is pretty dope; it's a great example of a fine product that gets in your way as little as possible so that idea -> thing can happen easily and accessibly, but still with lots of specifics and customizing to get into should you wish to. And tons of  plotters have been around since the 50s just go to an auction or stick a pen on a cheap 3D printer people who can't grasp any of that.
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Aug 16, 2019 01:14
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Well, I had a good run, but the Ender 3 Curse finally caught up with me. I had (what I thought was) a clogged nozzle, and ordered a pack of various sizes thinking I'd mess around with them. Well changing the nozzle turned into a giant clusterfuck. Near as I can tell, when I inserted the new bowden tube, there was enough crud inside the coupler, or maybe the coupler was just lovely, still not sure, that it felt like it hit bottom nowhere near close enough, and filled up with plastic, causing a significantly worse result than the original. After finally figuring this out and struggling to clean it, I replaced the coupler entirely, and put everything back together. It's still lovely. (But not as tremendously lovely) I've confirmed if I pull the filament out that it's clean and there isn't a visible clog in the nozzle or the heat tube, and if I manually push filament through it squirts out fast and dandy. But when I print, it has long stretches of doing good, followed by a fairly consistent interval of extreme under- to no extrusion: Print 1:  Print 2:  I marked the filament with some sharpie as it entered the extruder and watched it - during the "good" printing it pulls the dots consistently, but during the bad printing the dots don't move. I don't know if the extruder isn't able to pull, or if it is trying to pull and some drag somewhere down the line blocks it from going forward. Please tell me what dumb thing I am missing; I've been fiddling with this for a week, and while I have learned a lot, I would like to print things again.
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Aug 16, 2019 03:24
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Giant Isopod posted:Well, I had a good run, but the Ender 3 Curse finally caught up with me. I had good luck cleaning out the heatbreak tube with the bowden tube like in this video with the hotend heated up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30qqKUwviww
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Aug 16, 2019 04:00
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Rexxed posted:I had good luck cleaning out the heatbreak tube with the bowden tube like in this video with the hotend heated up: I tried this yesterday and tonight. No luck - exact same poo poo. I feel like I have to be fundamentally missing something in the re-assembly but I have no idea what
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Aug 17, 2019 03:35
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Since it's some kind of flow restriction is seems like a clog but if you've cleaned everything out and it's not unclogging I'd check that your extruder can push out filament (with the bowden tube unhooked) at a normal rate next, then maybe try another nozzle in case you got a weird one.
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Aug 17, 2019 03:50
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Immediately after posting that I took everything apart again and tried pushing the filament through just the extruder and first coupler and I noticed it had a weird resistance to it before it even got to the bowden tube. Extruder lever has a crack. Man, I hope this is it. I didn't actually test the extruder without the tube attached though, how do I do that? I don't see an extrude option in the control menu Rexxed posted:Since it's some kind of flow restriction is seems like a clog but if you've cleaned everything out and it's not unclogging I'd check that your extruder can push out filament (with the bowden tube unhooked) at a normal rate next, then maybe try another nozzle in case you got a weird one. I'm on nozzle #4, I got a pack of ten so I've changed them a couple times
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Aug 17, 2019 04:03
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Giant Isopod posted:Immediately after posting that I took everything apart again and tried pushing the filament through just the extruder and first coupler and I noticed it had a weird resistance to it before it even got to the bowden tube. That's got the pulley on the other side that holds filament tension to the gear with the teeth that actually moves the filament through so being all broken would mean less pressure and could very well be your issue. They make official aluminum replacements for that or you could consider a third party extruder as an upgrade. Teaching Tech guy tried this EZR one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyDv0CnLWU0 I bought a chinese knockoff of a bondtech and it's working well so far but I don't know if I love it yet so I can't recommend it until I've put more through it. quote:I didn't actually test the extruder without the tube attached though, how do I do that? I don't see an extrude option in the control menu It can be a challenge with the fittings that come from creality (I got replacements on amazon suggested by the 3d printed tomb of horrors guy), but basically take the clip off and push in the plastic thing to release the tube. In this video from Teaching Tech he ended up just unscrewing the fitting because it was stuck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pn5g8Qf4h8o&t=55s
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Aug 17, 2019 04:44
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I've had an FDM printer of one kind or another for 3 years. As my work has progressed, I've been able to get away with smaller and smaller build volumes. I needed an emergency replacement printer, so I went with an Anycubic Photon. Are there any good resources to learn resin based printing basics? I decided to run a part that got 2/3 of the way through and quit the print. There was some skin in there that I skimmed out and the part didn't look 100% right. No leaking, so no broken plastic film. I restarted the work with longer exposure times, and aside from making sure the bed is level I'm not certain if there's anything else to do. Any links or tips would be well appreciated, thanks!
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Aug 17, 2019 05:25
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Rexxed posted:That's got the pulley on the other side that holds filament tension to the gear with the teeth that actually moves the filament through so being all broken would mean less pressure and could very well be your issue. They make official aluminum replacements for that or you could consider a third party extruder as an upgrade. Yes, that did it! Thanks!
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Aug 19, 2019 06:40
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I just bought and Ender 5 and I've been getting it dialed in. The one thing I can't seem to straighten out is I get very fine stringing. Like, spiderwebs. I've tried all different retraction distances, travel speeds, retraction speeds, etc. I just can't seem to get rid of it. it's not that big of a deal (I can generally knock them off or a quick pass with my kitchen torch gets rid of them ) but it's just annoying that I can't seem to get rid of it. Anyone have any ideas?
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Aug 19, 2019 16:19
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Up your retract speed an additional 10mm/sec. Dry your filament.
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Aug 19, 2019 16:21
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So hey, this is on sale 42% off if you want bare bones SLA entry point. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p...veryName=DM7007
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Aug 19, 2019 17:55
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So, I've been printing a fair bit of carbon-fiber PETG and as mentioned earlier, I had a fair amount of issues with it blobbing. I tweaked the settings back and forth, but never got it perfect, but found a reasonable compromise. Large flat layers still needed to be monitored and they were never 'nice'. I ran out of filament, ordered a new roll, first object had, you guessed it, large flat areas and it printed it perfectly? (Ok, it's running a little too hot, which was one of my compromises, but still)!.
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Aug 19, 2019 19:13
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Maybe the old roll had sucked up a bunch of moisture? Did you ever try drying it out?
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Aug 19, 2019 19:27
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EvilBeard posted:I just bought and Ender 5 and I've been getting it dialed in. The one thing I can't seem to straighten out is I get very fine stringing. Like, spiderwebs. I've tried all different retraction distances, travel speeds, retraction speeds, etc. I just can't seem to get rid of it. it's not that big of a deal (I can generally knock them off or a quick pass with my kitchen torch gets rid of them ) but it's just annoying that I can't seem to get rid of it. Anyone have any ideas? I'd just leave it and burn them off as you've been doing. Slight stringing is easy to deal with but reducing the temperature can lead to weaker parts and increasing retraction too much can cause extruder jams. I guess if you're only making appearance parts, it might be worth running cooler to reduce surface imperfections at the expense of strength. Using linear advance/pressure advance will help somewhat, if your firmware supports it.
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Aug 19, 2019 19:58
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armorer posted:Maybe the old roll had sucked up a bunch of moisture? Did you ever try drying it out? Was always in a drybox with my nylon? I mean, this was from day one that I had to fight it.
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Aug 19, 2019 20:12
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TBH that sounds like a combination of the usual variability with printing (and filament quality) along with PETG doing PETG things.
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Aug 19, 2019 22:03
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Since when did PETG give a poo poo about moisture in the air? One of the reasons I like it is because its hydrophobic (or, at least the spools I bought from Taulman & Makergeeks were). Is it a formulation thing?
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Aug 19, 2019 22:10
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The new roll is not in the dry box. Maybe it was too dry?
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Aug 19, 2019 23:02
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