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Progress! I ordered a cheap gouger/beveling tool and 2 thicknesses of proper veg tan leather (2 & 4.5mm, drat that's thick) picked something I often carry around at work (an 18650 torch) and made a holster. This time I did the 2 needles thing too: It's too small for the torch despite measuring a couple of times, I want to try wet forming it tomorrow.
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# ? Aug 17, 2019 23:54 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 16:54 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Progress! I ordered a cheap gouger/beveling tool and 2 thicknesses of proper veg tan leather (2 & 4.5mm, drat that's thick) picked something I often carry around at work (an 18650 torch) and made a holster. This time I did the 2 needles thing too: Looks good - make sure you wet form before you stitch (and before you cut the leather to final dimensions). Once dry, use Tan-kote on the inside of the leather where the tool will slide in and out - it will harden it up and let the tool egress from the holster more easily and without damaging/scoring the leather. If you're going to be attaching a belt clip make sure you do this before wet forming because you won't be able to get to it once the leather is hardened 'shut'.
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 02:08 |
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Thanks for the advice. I have a serious adversion to wasting material I'm trying to get over, so starting oversize wouldn't occur to me . I'll slip a keyloop through the tab and call this done for a pen and start another. I can get 1l of Tan Kote for £23, is this something I'll use a lot of or should I grab the 4oz bottle for £10?
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 08:14 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Thanks for the advice. I have a serious adversion to wasting material I'm trying to get over, so starting oversize wouldn't occur to me . I'll slip a keyloop through the tab and call this done for a pen and start another. 4 oz sounds more reasonable.
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 08:17 |
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Ordered thanks. I'll play with wet forming while I wait 2 weeks for that to turn up.
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 08:38 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Ordered thanks. I'll play with wet forming while I wait 2 weeks for that to turn up. What thread are you using for your stitching? It almost looks like it isn't waxed but it's hard to say.
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 21:37 |
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It is waxed, it's just what turned up in the cheap kit I bought, a reel of black, white and rainbow.
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 23:08 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:It is waxed, it's just what turned up in the cheap kit I bought, a reel of black, white and rainbow. Cool. You can use a flat hammer to tap the stitch down and flatten it out after you're done stitching - just an aesthetic thing.
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# ? Aug 18, 2019 23:14 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Progress! I ordered a cheap gouger/beveling tool and 2 thicknesses of proper veg tan leather (2 & 4.5mm, drat that's thick) picked something I often carry around at work (an 18650 torch) and made a holster. This time I did the 2 needles thing too: Nicely done! My first saddle stitch was a horror show by comparison. Also this: VelociBacon posted:Cool. You can use a flat hammer to tap the stitch down and flatten it out after you're done stitching - just an aesthetic thing. is absolute truth. It probably depends on how delicate your item is, but I found it makes a big difference in making it look neater.
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# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:37 |
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I have a question for the thread. How much would a custom made pair of cowboy like boots run to? Not asking exactly for a quote just a ballpark figure.
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# ? Aug 20, 2019 05:09 |
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TerryLennox posted:I have a question for the thread. To be honest it'd be better to be asking that in a cobbler thread or a specific bootmaking thread, it's an entirely different thing than leatherwork as a craft. I don't think we have either thread so I'll guess it's around 700CAD.
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# ? Aug 20, 2019 06:35 |
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My tan cote order was cancelled, before I go reordering can someone confirm the following for me: The process should be to clean/strip the leather first, my wife has donated a bottle of deglazer that should do this, then dye if necessary, rub/buff when dry then finish with some kind of sealer, this is the tan cote right? If I'm not dyeing and it's new clean leather the tan cote is just a protective finish? Also any wet shaping should be done before stitching? When should I burnish the edges, before or after the protective finish? What do you do if you get water marks on something before finishing? Finally what do you do to the flesh side of the leather inside a bag? I've tried googling these but there are a million different opinions available of course.
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# ? Aug 22, 2019 15:10 |
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Since I have first-hand experience with just a couple of those topics:cakesmith handyman posted:When should I burnish the edges, before or after the protective finish? quote:Finally what do you do to the flesh side of the leather inside a bag? Trabant posted:And to make this a useful post, here's a new-to-me thing I discovered: if you have a really rough flesh side of your piece, a glass slicker + some finishing compound does wonders. I previously tried using just Tokonole rubbed into the back using a piece of canvas, but it didn't work all that well. This time I followed this video and sprung for one of these and the difference is huge. Yes, it's stupid to pay that much for a piece of glass, I agree. You can probably get it a bit cheaper elsewhere, I just happened to be buying things from Rocky Mountain Leather. It produces a very smooth surface. Not sure what to do if you'd like a more natural, fuzzy feel, though. You might be at the mercy of what your leather supplier can provide. I suspect it's a matter of how good their splitting is.
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# ? Aug 22, 2019 16:17 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:My tan cote order was cancelled, before I go reordering can someone confirm the following for me: You should watch some Ian Atkinson videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/satansbarber/videos), he does a lot of sheaths and such and it might help to see the whole process in order. I've never used deglazer with my veg tan leather. My process is: 1- Cut leather to rough size (oversize a little) 2 - Wet form the leather and let dry: - Make sure when you're working the wet material around with your fingers that your nails don't scratch the leather at this point. Don't use any tool with a hard edge that will mark the leather up. - Make sure you're not forming leather in where the object needs to pull out - like don't trap the object in there with the leather, it's easy to do and you feel awfully stupid afterwards - Can be good to wrap the object in kitchen cling wrap if you don't want it getting wet. Wooden handles and such can swell if you wrap wet leather around them for a long time so I always cling wrap whatever I'm forming 3 - Once dry, dye the leather (usually 2-3 applications). Be aware that dye will wet the leather so make sure you don't let it lose it's form by manipulating it too aggressively 4 - Use those clips for large stacks of paper to keep the leather pinched together where I want it and cut to size 5 - Use the grooving tool to lay out where I'll be stitching 6 - Use a punch to make the holes for the stitching 7 - TanKote the inside. I do this before stitching so that I can open the sheath a bit for access if it's a 1 piece thing and not a clamshell style. I find it helpful to work the leather in one direction only with the tankote so you're slicking it down and not bringing up the fibers 8 - Carefully apply contact cement where the leather will be held together just on the outside of the stitching holes that are punched 9 - Saddle stitch and tap the stitch down with a flat hammer (make sure you don't hit it with a hammer that has a pattern on the striking face) 10 - Burnish the edges (I bevel the edges a bit first with a skiv but careful you can really gently caress up the piece if you make a mistake) 11 - Apply neatsfoot oil - a couple applications. I don't think I've noticed any issue with water marks - it should dry and look the same as anywhere else. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 22, 2019 |
# ? Aug 22, 2019 17:09 |
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Thanks you again, both the videos and your instructions are helpful. Tan Kote, gum tragacanth, neatsfoot oil ordered.
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# ? Aug 22, 2019 21:42 |
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Tan cote and gum tragacanth turned up early so I had a go at making a sheath for my Gerber: No dye and the neatsfoot oil will turn up next week so it's done for now. The channel for the stitching wasn't deep enough, more burnishing to do on the edges, should have beveled and sanded the top edge of the pocket before sewing. On the other hand I'm very happy with it and the wet forming apart from being slow was quite fun.
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# ? Aug 24, 2019 15:57 |
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Nearly finished the next piece, a belt bag for my phone when I'm doing archery. Needs the edges burnishing. Going to try a bracer/arm guard next then I'll need more leather and I can try a quiver. Any UK goons bought anything from metrolitan leather?
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# ? Aug 31, 2019 19:44 |
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Looks good! Are those rivets being used to attach the strap?
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# ? Sep 2, 2019 01:36 |
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Thank you. They are, I just wanted to try something new as I've got the (very) basics of that type of stitching down.
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# ? Sep 2, 2019 07:03 |
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I'm with you -- I feel like I want to try all kinds of hold-leather-together methods at some point. Rivets, Chicago screws, snaps, whatever. Then I'll decide what I like most.
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# ? Sep 2, 2019 23:46 |
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Not sure what to call it, but I like the super simple strap holder thing what keeps the strap from backing out. Good design. Fancy holes on the belt loop are fun, too.
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# ? Sep 3, 2019 00:12 |
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I ordered a bunch of cheap hardware to play with but I'm being jerked around on delivery, get what you pay for I guess. I'm going to start mocking up a pattern for an archery arm guard and I want to make a new sheath for my granddad's knife. Then I guess I'll have to put my hand in my pocket and order a side or hide as the 2sqft I got to play with won't stretch much further.
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# ? Sep 3, 2019 12:03 |
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I'm on the lookout for something that may not exist, or is extremely rare. I've made a few assorted leather projects, but my favorite thing to do is to make watch straps. I've been using veg tan as the liner and internal padding, but nicer premium remnant leathers for the tops. The problem there is that I don't believe most of them are veg tanned. The don't typically take an edge creaser anywhere near as well as veg tan does, and they're way softer. Also, burnishing the edged with gum trag has been weird on a couple of them- which I heard is a thing with chrome tan. What I'm looking for is a leather that works like a veg tan, but has the interesting grain of something like bison or camelgrain or reindeer. What should I be looking for?
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# ? Oct 8, 2019 02:02 |
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Those are wilder than what I've used, so this might not be exactly what you're looking for: You could try chevre (goat) or Dollaro for pebbled texture, various pull-up styles for wild colours, embossed crocodile patterns, or Pueblo for a suede-like look. All can be found veg tanned depending on where you buy from -- RMLS has a decent range: https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/vegetable-tanned
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# ? Oct 8, 2019 05:37 |
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Trabant posted:Those are wilder than what I've used, so this might not be exactly what you're looking for: These are awesome, thank you! I'm hoping to find some un-dyed, but this is a great start.
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# ? Oct 8, 2019 17:09 |
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This seems like a place that would be able to tell me. My wife and I do renaissance faires, and we have a couple go-to costumes that include pirate-style hats. They're getting a little worn and dirty, so we'd like to clean, condition, and waterproof them so they last a while longer. They're both leather but different sorts. Mine is rough textured, not like suede but it's stiff so I think it's veg-tan, with a ribbon-like cloth trim on the brim and folded tricorn-style. The other is also stiff but smooth on one side, more of a cavalier hat look. They're both dyed black and we'd like to keep the coloration. What's the cleaners and techniques we should use to restore and protect them?
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# ? Oct 11, 2019 05:15 |
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Disclaimer: I'm going to list my dress shoe care routine (and everyone has their own version) which I found also works on wallets and belts. Still, YMMV:
I've never applied any waterproofing to my shoes before, so I can't speak about that. I do have a homemade finish -- paste of walnut oil and beeswax -- that kinda does that for small leather goods, but I can't really recommend a store product. If you can stomach Reddit, odds are there are both hat- and costume-related forums which might be better informed. Or YouTube, if you don't read the comments...
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# ? Oct 11, 2019 16:09 |
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I have a leather wallet that is just fine otherwise but the see-through plastic on one side the driver's license compartment has cracked at the edges near the leather. I don't see any way for anyone to fix it other than some sort of adhesive - does such a thing exist? tl;dr: is there an glue for plastic-to-leather? 3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Oct 24, 2019 |
# ? Oct 24, 2019 14:42 |
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Jerry Cotton posted:I have a leather wallet that is just fine otherwise but the see-through plastic on one side the driver's license compartment has cracked at the edges near the leather. I don't see any way for anyone to fix it other than some sort of adhesive - does such a thing exist? Contact cement maybe would work.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 15:28 |
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Jerry Cotton posted:I have a leather wallet that is just fine otherwise but the see-through plastic on one side the driver's license compartment has cracked at the edges near the leather. I don't see any way for anyone to fix it other than some sort of adhesive - does such a thing exist?
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# ? Oct 26, 2019 12:18 |
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Anybody know what this thing is? It was in a box of leather working tools that belonged to my great-grandmother. The blade, if you can call it that, is an equilateral triangle. I'm curious what you would use such a weird tool for, and google isn't much help for this sort of thing.
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# ? Oct 27, 2019 21:44 |
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deoju posted:Anybody know what this thing is? It was in a box of leather working tools that belonged to my great-grandmother. The blade, if you can call it that, is an equilateral triangle. Looks like a pyramid-tip awl, but I think those are usually 4-sided?
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# ? Oct 28, 2019 00:26 |
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Dienes posted:Looks like a pyramid-tip awl, but I think those are usually 4-sided? Yeah, I think maybe for something like saddlemaking or similar.
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# ? Oct 28, 2019 00:28 |
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Sweet. Thanks for the info.
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# ? Oct 28, 2019 00:42 |
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deoju posted:Anybody know what this thing is? It was in a box of leather working tools that belonged to my great-grandmother. The blade, if you can call it that, is an equilateral triangle. It's a scraping/deburring tool, not sure of the technical name. Bought one for the spouse, she uses it for cleaning up rough edges on plastic minis before painting. When I found it at the hardware store, it was next to linoleum tile tools. *shrug* Honestly not sure what you'd use one for in leatherworking.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 00:23 |
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There were a few smithing tools in the box too. That could be it too. Thanks.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 05:51 |
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TheNothingNew posted:It's a scraping/deburring tool, not sure of the technical name. Bought one for the spouse, she uses it for cleaning up rough edges on plastic minis before painting. I’ve been looking for that kind of deburring tool for a while, if anyone knows any productive search terms let me know please.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 08:26 |
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Vindolanda posted:I’ve been looking for that kind of deburring tool for a while, if anyone knows any productive search terms let me know please. I've seen them called triangular scrapers. Googling that term returns pretty much what was posted
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 17:57 |
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Rotten Cookies posted:I've seen them called triangular scrapers. Googling that term returns pretty much what was posted More fool me; I was sure I’d only get those triangular paint scrapers and didn’t even try searching “triangular scraper”.
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# ? Nov 5, 2019 14:48 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 16:54 |
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Gang tag contest! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3903115
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# ? Nov 5, 2019 18:45 |