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MohawkSatan posted:Easy, relatively cheap, and something I legit wish I'd started with would be just buying one of these http://devil-forge.com/19-dfs-series oh man that is a killer price for a v slick professionally-executed version of basically waht i just described. id find some reviews before taking the dive b/c this is the first i've seen of it and can't vouch, but yeah thats a v forgiving entry point for a "proper" small-work gas forge
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Aug 15, 2019 20:12
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Ambrose Burnside posted:oh man that is a killer price for a v slick professionally-executed version of basically waht i just described. id find some reviews before taking the dive b/c this is the first i've seen of it and can't vouch, but yeah thats a v forgiving entry point for a "proper" small-work gas forge I started with charcoal, and then bought the cheapest one in that link once I couldn't get charcoal shipped to me anymore. It loving owns. Hard. Welding temps are no problem given a few fire bricks to cover the ends, and the little sucker is super good on fuel too. I honestly regret not finding and starting with one of them, because just in the amount I would have saved in fuel it'd be a massive win. Hell, the $65 CAD it took for me to make my Box o Dirt would have been much better spent on the little gas thing. Edit: Not loving around at all, this one right here http://devil-forge.com/dfs-series/30-dfs.html and this https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/22-lb-steel-anvil/A-p8688384e are such a massive fuckoff improvement over my box of dirt and chunk of railroad track that I'm actually angry I didn't just save for those in the first damned place. Those combined cranked how much I can get done by 4x as much, at least. This little guy, right here?  6 hours, start to finish, with the forge and anvil I linked, the cheapest belt grinder off ebay, a set of Lansky stones, a set of lovely rebar tongs, and two hammers (8oz ball peen and my regular 4 pound cross peen). Before the grinder/forge/anvil, that would have been probably closer to 20 hours work. MohawkSatan fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Aug 15, 2019 |
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Aug 15, 2019 20:32
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Hmm, I'll see what I can come up with. I need another hobby like a hole in a boat (I just bought a boat!) so I'd like to make this for as close to free as possible, lol. I already have a bunch of propane tanks, so I just need to come up with a chamber and some plumbing it sounds like.
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Aug 15, 2019 20:44
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MohawkSatan posted:Easy, relatively cheap, and something I legit wish I'd started with would be just buying one of these http://devil-forge.com/19-dfs-series Ambrose Burnside posted:oh man that is a killer price for a v slick professionally-executed version of basically waht i just described. id find some reviews before taking the dive b/c this is the first i've seen of it and can't vouch, but yeah thats a v forgiving entry point for a "proper" small-work gas forge I havent used one but they sponsor a YouTuber I subscribe to so I would buy one eventually: "Hey guys if your interested in 5% off a Devil-Forge Furnace email me for your unique code on bigstackddddd@mail.com" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJDJ5IJGhpc
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Aug 16, 2019 00:32
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Has anyone bought tools from Jason at Fireball? Alec steel gives him consistent plugs and his gear looks pretty good by eye I'm in the market for a tig sometime soonish and am thinking about a multi process with mig and tig capabilities like the Everlast one which has HF start. We've been building a jig at work to disassemble our big peristaltic pumps and the welder we have belongs to the assembly tech and is the cheapest piece of poo poo chinesium thing ever, he was using it with gasless wire and it took ages to get the settings right but at least now it runs a reasonable bead. I'm still adamant we should get a cheaper gas cigweld or something at work cos we have a gas supplier literally across the road
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Aug 16, 2019 03:27
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I have the small 4kg Devil Forge melting furnace and it was worth every last penny. I unfortunately haven't been able to use it nearly as much this summer as I'd planned due to some health issues, but by next spring I should be back up to 100%, and hopefully I'll finally be able to get some of my ideas solidified. As metal.  If their smithing forges are as good as the furnaces, and I can't imagine they wouldn't be, I think it would be money very well spent. The burners alone are worth the price of entry.
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Aug 18, 2019 16:06
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I'm trying to repair a wire cooling rack. One of the joints broke. The rack appears to be made out of 1/8" stainless wire. I applied normal flux and attempted to solder with lead free solder, but it just bounced off the joint and won't stick. What's the right way to repair this joint in a food safe manner? Do I need to get a special flux for stainless, or can I just file both sides of the joint to break through the oxide layer and use normal flux? Is solder marked lead free ok, or do I need special food safe rated solder?
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Aug 19, 2019 17:44
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Vim Fuego posted:I'm trying to repair a wire cooling rack. One of the joints broke. The rack appears to be made out of 1/8" stainless wire. I applied normal flux and attempted to solder with lead free solder, but it just bounced off the joint and won't stick. Stainless is tricky to solder, I recommend brazing using these rods Youtube should have some tutorials for you if you arent familiar with brazing. You can find those rods locally at any HVAC supply house as well.
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Aug 19, 2019 17:51
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Nice, thanks.
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Aug 19, 2019 17:58
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Stainless is a real piece of poo poo to solder, or really hot-join through any means other than a well-suited welding process like TIG, tbh. If you're never going to do this kind of work on stainless again, and if the joins being made aren't safety-critical, I'd consider a mechanical/cold repair. If a wire rack grate's come untacked at one end, for example, just ganging it to its neighbours with tightly-wrapped baling wire or strapping might be more than adequate. Another benefit of this approach is that if you use stainless fasteners/joining methods, the stainlessness of the whole assembly shouldn't be significantly affected. When you do hot-work on stainless and don't go to the trouble of using a decent shielding glass or fluxing the dickens out of everything- or sometimes even when you do, if you overheat things- it tends to stop being stainless afterwards.
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Aug 19, 2019 18:53
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That's a good point. Maybe I'll just tie it in with some tightly twisted stainless wire. It is probable that the cost of materials will far exceed the value of the unit in question. This is a $12 cooling rack that can still be exchanged at the store that sold it, it just seemed like a shame to throw out the whole thing because of one broken solder joint. I figured if I could fix it with stuff I had in the basement I would.
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Aug 19, 2019 19:45
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SS Safety wire and a pair of safety wire pliers (or linesmans pliers) would get my nod. Sturdy, still SS, and cheap.
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Aug 19, 2019 20:11
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sharkytm posted:SS Safety wire and a pair of safety wire pliers (or linesmans pliers) would get my nod. Sturdy, still SS, and cheap. The only problem with this for food service is that profile matters as much as the material. It's not going to be able to be appropriately cleaned. This would matter if it's purpose was for handling raw chicken or something, but it's not so everything will be fine.
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Aug 19, 2019 20:34
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Stainless is a real piece of poo poo to solder, or really hot-join through any means other than a well-suited welding process like TIG, tbh. If you're never going to do this kind of work on stainless again, and if the joins being made aren't safety-critical, I'd consider a mechanical/cold repair. If a wire rack grate's come untacked at one end, for example, just ganging it to its neighbours with tightly-wrapped baling wire or strapping might be more than adequate. The answer to one-off stainless repair is absolutely stick welding if you have a machine I feel like.
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Aug 19, 2019 21:16
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Sure, but you need more than the machine, you need the consumables and the skill. If it's a one-off you'll need to round up some 308/316 rods, and they're not particularly cheap even by the mini-tube. they're gonna soak up humidity and turn to poo poo before the next job, so the whole tube is effectively getting used up for this one weld. stick welding SS isn't actually that bad but there's still a learning curve because the material is such a poor conductor of heat, you want at least a little practice before doing real work joins because everything works a little different, from the machine amperage to the puddling behaviour and travel speed. it's not a big limiting factor, but it still calls for some coupon-sized stainless scrap to run some practice beads on, and that's surprisingly uncommon if you don't have a reason to work with stainless. I don't have any stainless flat bar/plate material whatsoever in my shop stock racks, and I've got obscure stuff like architectural bronze, nickel silver and pewter in there, so if I wanted to do a one-off stainless weld, I'd also have to source a couple coupons to not totally blow that single important repair weld. if all that's also present, welding makes sense, yeah. but just the rods would cost more than returning the rack for a new one, so it's really hard to justify tooling up in any substantive capacity for this specific job. knowing how cheap it is/how low the stakes are, if i couldn't wire it in place or use some other "material on hand, 15 minutes of work max" solution, I'd just exchange the thing. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Aug 19, 2019 |
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Aug 19, 2019 21:43
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I'm still researching diy forge ideas, this looks even easier than the paint can idea? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifTIuNt3aNY edit: I wonder how long one of those little tanks lasts? Or even better, maybe I could somehow plumb that tip onto a regular sized propane tank. Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Aug 19, 2019 |
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Aug 19, 2019 21:54
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I've done a lot of work with that style of forge, and I would say to overlook it entirely, given the work you want to do with it. I used mine for much lighter stock, as in topping out at 1/4" round titanium bar, which it was adequate for but not ideal. I also tried using it for bigger stuff and had nothing but grief. If you want to forge full-sized knives, don't consider any plumbing torch-based design. They don't have the BTU output and they're not designed to run for long periods; ime torches used for that fail extremely quickly, particularly if the torch head has any plastic components. The brass tips are designed to dissipate heat into the air, but when snugged up to a firebrick port, this stops working and they overheat even faster. Using two torches to compensate solves the BTU issue (hopefully) but doesn't solve the fundamental issue of those torches not being suited to a forge burner's operating parameters. And yes, the little propane tanks are an expensive way to fuel a forge, and if you adapted one to a full-sized tank you've basically done half the work of setting up a proper venturi burner without all these issues. I'd also say that cut-firebrick forges are not acceptable for permanent forges; they're easy to pull together but the forge chamber sizes they permit are just too small for knifes. They're also fragile and fall apart very quickly with handling, assembly/disassembly, stock hitting the forge walls, etc. This type of forge should be thought of as a field-expedient design that you can throw together very quickly as needed for one-off stock heating, not as a working forge.
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Aug 19, 2019 22:38
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gah, ok. I'm just not into spending $160 on this right now. especially when I'm going to have to get a belt sander and some other bits and bobs too. are there ANY diy solutions that are decent?
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Aug 19, 2019 23:17
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Ghostnuke posted:gah, ok. I'm just not into spending $160 on this right now. especially when I'm going to have to get a belt sander and some other bits and bobs too. Unless you've already got welding gear and you're willing to build one, probably not--and even then I think you're gonna be running at least a hundred bucks in parts just for the regulator and propane jets
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Aug 19, 2019 23:22
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well poop. I guess I'll just sit on this for a while then. : /
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Aug 19, 2019 23:28
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You can DIY a coal/charcoal forge for pretty cheap though, if you just want to blacksmith for super cheap.
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Aug 19, 2019 23:40
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Leperflesh posted:You can DIY a coal/charcoal forge for pretty cheap though, if you just want to blacksmith for super cheap. That said, though, if you're balking at $160 for a forge, you're not going to be happy with how much all the other stuff you'll need costs. Consider that you'll need, at minimum: - forge - anvil - hammers intended/modified specifically for forging - tongs, vise-grips are not a substitute so you really do need the blacksmith-specialized versions here, probably several styles of tong to accomodate the specific workholding requirements of knifemaking - bench vise - bench/belt grinder - coarse + fine files - bunch of small tools i'm forgetting about and don't forget that knifemaking is a discipline that draws from several skilled trades, not just metalworking but also carpentry and leatherworking. to do quality work you'll need at least barebones tooling for stuff like making and installing handle scales, or making sheaths fitted to the blade. $160 isn't going to even be the single biggest line item for getting set up here. it really does add up, you just don't realize it because you tend to buy tools incrementally. if you haven't done any of this before and cost is the main limiting factor, my recommendation is to forget about getting set up to do this at home and invest that low 3 figures in taking an in-depth, multi-day blacksmithing/knifemaking course; if you're in the US/Canada there's probably options there in most major cities. the very first blacksmithing i did was through a course, and it was absolutely the right way to start off. find out if you actually like making knives before you invest in it. with knifemaking in particular people getting disillusioned seems fairly common as the gloss of ITS LIKE MAKING SWORDS OOAOAOAOOOOOHHHH wears off and you realize it's like 75% grinding and sharpening by work-volume, and a course is a relatively cheap way to realize it might not be for you vs. buying tooling and then figuring that out. ... not specifically saying you have unrealistic expectations or are blinkered by swordmaking or whatever, it's just a very common observation among people just starting out. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 00:25
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Re: cooling rack, beat the poo poo out of it with a hammer until you've got enough overlapping flat surface to drill and cold rivet.
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Aug 20, 2019 00:34
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Leperflesh posted:You can DIY a coal/charcoal forge for pretty cheap though, if you just want to blacksmith for super cheap. Which I legit would not suggest over the forge I linked. I started with charcoal in a Box O Dirt forge, and while it worked, that cheap little propane one is way, way, way better. Like night and day. That was the single biggest improvement I've seen, followed by a real(if small) anvil and then a $60 1*30 belt grinder off Amazon. Edit: even in terms of how it effected my learning, being able to get a good consistent heat nice and fast? Hell, I've improved leaps and loving bounds in the 20ish hours of forge time with propane rather than the 150ish done with charcoal. With any luck, I'll be doing all the forge work for several knives tomorrow, rather than maaaaybe getting one done, if I was lucky. My bevels are better and more accurate, I only need to do half the grinding I did before, and half the time all I need is a few quick strokes of a file to smooth out forge marks. MohawkSatan fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 00:41
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I don't want to do any actual blacksmithing (is that the right term?) Like, I just want to get a piece of leaf steel or a random chunk of steel or whatever and cut/grind it into shape. From what I can tell, I need a forge, belt sander, probably some more files, cutting/grinding/flap disks, and that little sharpening jig (forgot what it's called).
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Aug 20, 2019 02:43
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Ghostnuke posted:I don't want to do any actual blacksmithing (is that the right term?) Like, I just want to get a piece of leaf steel or a random chunk of steel or whatever and cut/grind it into shape. Unless you are trying to heat treat it in some way?
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Aug 20, 2019 02:49
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Kenshin posted:If you're just cutting and grinding it to shape I don't see why you need a forge? Yeah, heat treating. Every video I've watched has that step.
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Aug 20, 2019 03:00
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Confusion of vocabulary here- "blacksmithing" refers specifically to the hotworking of steel using hammer and anvil. My recommendations thus far have assumed that type of work. You want to do material removal knifemaking- instead of using plastic deformation to draw the knife profile from barstock through forging, usually producing a knife that's longer/deeper/etc than the original barstock, you grind away all the steel from the blank that isn't knife, and cannot produce knives that don't "fit inside" the original stock. With that in mind- no forge needed if you're just doing material removal. You will likely want some facility for heat treating, but you do not need a "forge" for that, per se (and a commercial forge would indeed be overkill). If you don't want to shape steel while it's hot, you don't need a forge or anvil. If you're just annealing, quenching and then tempering, you can likely make due with a plumber's torch and soft firebrick "shelter" for the annealing. This is more or less what you were talking about before and which I shot down. I wouldn't use it for ~blacksmithing~ but the metrics change when it's a tool for a 10-minute single step in an hours-long process vs. the primary tool that lets you do any work whatsoever. Mind, though, that that forge money just gets plowed into the grinder instead. I'd say the minimum investment to do decent-quality material removal knifemaking is even higher than it is for "blacksmithing" because you can't shoestrong-DIY a bigass belt grinder suited to knifemaking like you can do with forges and anvils, and cheap bench grinders are unsuitable to that sort of material removal work. The marks of handmade knife quality- premium furniture materials that are extensively worked to maximize ergonomics, the fineness of blade + furniture finishing, blades made from alloys with demanding heat treatment cycles, geometrically-immaculate blade grind profiles- are all expensive to tool up for. you'll still need all the attendant kit for handles/hardware/sheaths, though, knives are never just a hunk of steel. You may not care about these things, of course, it depends on your end goal here. Which I should probably ask now- what's your objective here? Making simple knives for yourself + to give as gifts? To make yourself working tools for a complementary craft, i.e. making carving knives for whittling? Or do you want to sell these knives? The answer to this has a lot of bearing on the advice people are gonna give. Other stuff: irt tools, I'd still strongly recommend starting out with a knifemaking-specific course, because 1) learning with the right equipment is really important to developing good work practices, but also 2) my reservations about "you might not stick with it" are even higher than they are for blacksmithing. This is impossible to say without rubbing someone here the wrong way (sorry knifemakers), but... material removal knifemaking is just loving boring. It's not kinetic or dynamic or physical in the way blacksmithing is, you're largely just grinding a piece of steel for hours. Conceptually, making knives is really cool; practically it's tedious and offers far less creative leeway or breadth of application than freeform hot ironworking does. I tried material-removal knifemaking; I made one knife and then realized it's about as tedious as weaving chainmaille except the investment to start is $500 instead of $25. Drawing the form of the blade organically from barstock, breathing character into it through sweat and clever artifice? That's part of what compels me about blacksmithing, and it took a class to learn as much and set me down the right path. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 03:17
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The stainless rod seems to keep a long time in the oven with the 7018 anyway though, not too much of a cost to keep a little on hand
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Aug 20, 2019 03:21
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'd still strongly recommend starting out with a knifemaking-specific course, because 1) learning with the right equipment is really important to developing good work practices, but also 2) my reservations about "you might not stick with it" are even higher than they are for blacksmithing. This is impossible to say without rubbing someone here the wrong way (sorry knifemakers), but... material removal knifemaking is just loving boring. It's not kinetic or dynamic or physical in the way blacksmithing is, you're largely just grinding a piece of steel for hours. Conceptually, making knives is really cool; practically it's tedious and offers far less creative leeway or breadth of application than freeform hot ironworking does. I tried material-removal knifemaking; I made one knife and then realized it's about as tedious as weaving chainmaille except the investment to start is $500 instead of $25. Drawing the form of the blade organically from barstock, breathing character into it through sweat and clever artifice? That's part of what compels me about blacksmithing, and it took a class to learn as much and set me down the right path. However I have a very different perspective on the whole grinding thing. I have loved learning to forge blades, but the truth about making really good blades--including forging--is that as your hammer skills develop you're going to spend a lot more time at the grinder than at the forge & anvil. Forging out a good blade doesn't take terribly long--even with my amateur skills I can forge out a decent shape that is pretty straight in an hour. I really enjoy forging! I love watching my hammer skills develop. But I really like grinding, and I've started to really gain an appreciation for hand-sanding. I just... focus. Especially with music or a podcast on, but even just without, it's very zen for me. That said, developing your hammer skills is huge. Make your own tongs. The time you spend making your own tongs (and other tools) is huge in teaching you hammer skills and efficiency. Kenshin fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 03:21
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Kenshin posted:I totally agree with taking a course! This is fair and true, yeah- I probably should have added that I didn't stick with knives for long at all because the forging step was what really compelled me and I gradually realized I could just, do that exclusively, and make non-knife things. My Zone-Out Work is hand-filing and rouge cloth polishing/buffing because in the end I landed on jewellery + metal art instead of knives. Part of the reason I'm banging on about classes is because it's an ideal setting for that self-discovery, one that doesn't require a substantial time + money investment. I don't regularly do any of the things I started with when I decided I was going to "do metalworking", stuff like chainmaille jewelry served as cheap and accessible stepping-stones that helped me find what I enjoyed most so I could focus on work that was driven by those appealing aspects instead of just offering em mixed in with stuff that turned out to not be my bag. I forgot that lesson when I went to buy a machine tool; I got a Taig CNCed micro mill, and while i don't regret that acquisition + it's useful to me, I really do wish I'd held off for long enough to realize that a laser cutting machine would have gotten about 50 times the usage at half the price.
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Aug 20, 2019 03:49
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These are good posts- It's great news then that I can spend like $20 building a "forge". I'll probably grab something like this for my belt sander. I have an old grinder from my grandpa that's built like a tank. I haven't used it yet, but I'm guessing it's plenty powerful. My goal is just to make a few different knives for me (skinning, filet, a general fishing knife) and my wife has been asking for a nicer 4" chef's knife for a while and MAYBE some for gifts, we'll see. I just want to hit the finish line with some good knives, and I know that if I start out with quality stock it's going to turn out way better than what I can do myself. Also, I'm not looking to make this my life's quest either. I've mentioned before that I have a bunch of other hobbies, and I'm 100% sure that I like beer, fishing, and arcade games more than knives. I'm pretty handy generally so when I watched the videos and said to myself "I can totally do that" then the gears start turning. It would be great to have some quality knives that I didn't have to pay hundreds of dollars each for, and that I can say I made myself.
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Aug 20, 2019 04:48
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Regardless of your approach re: forging vs. stock removal, you should definitely expect your first dozen knives to be crap. Depending on your standards, that may still be acceptable as far as presenting them as gifts: the fact that you made something by hand goes a long way. But you will not make a chef's knife that approaches the quality of, say, a $100 Henkels, in your first few tries. Not even close.
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Aug 20, 2019 05:23
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Leperflesh posted:Regardless of your approach re: forging vs. stock removal, you should definitely expect your first dozen knives to be crap. Depending on your standards, that may still be acceptable as far as presenting them as gifts: the fact that you made something by hand goes a long way. I'm honestly curious, why do you say that? I'm sure the videos on youtube make it look much easier than it is, but what part of it am I not understanding the difficulty of? I know it's arrogant to think I'm going to pop out a great knife on my first try, and I know I won't, but it really does look pretty easy to grind something into shape and then put an edge on it. Is it getting the annealing and heat treating just right? That's the only part I'm a bit unclear on so far. edit: just bought 12 of those bigger fire bricks on FB marketplace for $10 
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Aug 20, 2019 14:04
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Ghostnuke posted:I'm honestly curious, why do you say that?  I think you can aim for a rather thick bladed, stubby pointed, outdoors knife and do functionally decent on your first try. It might not be straight, or particularly elegant, but it will cut. If you choose your steel properly it probably won't crack or do anything terrible when you quench it and anneal it. Again, it'll probably warp a bit, but no biggie. In my area there's about a half dozen knife makers that opened up when Marbles Outdoors sold out. This doesn't include the rando's doing it on the side on the weekends. The blades are laser cut out of plate stock, ground to as close as they can get them, heat treated, then polished into what you see above. It's a fairly crude process and lacks any of the finesse you see online. The guys doing the grinding and polishing get covered in soot/grindings from head to toe. It's absolutely a production setting, but they do consistent knives and they do nice knives. One thing virtually none of them do is something like a chef knife. A few do filet knifes but they are overly thick and filet like poo poo. The few knife makers I know prefer Mora Knives from Amazon for $10. They consider the knives they make more along a type of usable art than a functional tool you'd hammer on.
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Aug 20, 2019 15:08
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Ghostnuke posted:I'm honestly curious, why do you say that? My first two knives outside of a class and without an instructor were... fine. Not great, but just fine. They are sharp and thick utility/camping knives that have basic but functional handles. They are also infinitely better than had I just tried making them myself after watching Forged in Fire for a bunch of seasons. (I'm not making fun here, that show is literally why I took the classes and got into this and I still watch it every week!) Grinding (and then hand-sanding to get it looking really good) takes practice. A lot of practice. I would still be a lot worse at it (despite having my own 2x72 to practice on!) had I not taken the knife-making classes. Even better, the guy I learned from does make hand-forged chef knives (this is one of them) so he really, really knows what he's doing. Kenshin fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 16:18
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I see what you're saying. It'll take some practice to get something that looks store bought. That brings up a question - how do you decide your bevel angle, and then how do you actually grind at that angle once you've decided? I assume there's some sort of jig involved?
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Aug 20, 2019 16:31
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Ghostnuke posted:I see what you're saying. It'll take some practice to get something that looks store bought. Google "knife filing jig". There are a ton of relatively simple diy options that you can make for cheap.
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Aug 20, 2019 17:04
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Ghostnuke posted:I see what you're saying. It'll take some practice to get something that looks store bought. Yes, though I will note that the filing jig is optional. It just gets less optional the thinner your blade needs to be, and more optional with how much experience and patience you have grinding by hand. My buddy and I just got a filing jig and it for sure makes a difference, but you can produce beautiful, functional blades without it. The blades I made in class were without a filing jig, and the knives I've been working on the past six months are the same. Only the latest knife I've rough ground was using it, but I will also be using it for final-grinding the paring knife I'm making right now. Another note about the filing jig: unlike doing it by hand you're going to be generating even more heat from friction, and since you generally won't be touching the steel you won't notice. This is fine on un-heat-treated blades but if you are not careful on a heat-treated blade you can completely ruin your temper on the steel by getting it too hot. I can't very well dunk the jig in my water tank to keep things cool so I think I'm going to have a spray-bottle of water next to me. Kenshin fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 17:17
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| # ? May 23, 2024 22:22 |
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I'm hogging the thread here, but whatever. Does anyone use infrared thermometers to keep an eye on things so you don't over heat? I just watched a Forged in Fire where the dude overheated and had a bunch of cracks, seems like there should be a way to keep that from happening.
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Aug 20, 2019 22:12
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