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wolrah posted:Relevant: https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-explain-why-you-crashed-your-car-via-this-b-1677523538 What the gently caress did you just loving say about me, you little bitch? I'll have you know I've driven many high hp rwd cars including vipers, porsches, corvettes, and formula cars and I've graduated from formula racing schools. I have years of training in advanced car control and plenty of track time. You are nothing to me but just another target. I will wipe you the gently caress out with judicious use of the throttle the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my loving words. You think you can get away with saying that poo poo to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am spending half of each day on the skid pad learning how to keep a car from spinning if you lose traction so you better prepare for the storm, maggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call your life. You're loving dead, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime (at full oppo lock), and I can prevent the car from doing a complete 180 that's just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in small steering input, but I have access to the entire arsenal of driving with the with DSC off many times including in the rain and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your miserable rear end off the face of the continent, you little poo poo. If only you knew that usually when the rear breaks loose, it does so progressively, maybe you would have held your loving tongue. But you couldn't, you didn't, and now you're paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will poo poo fury all over you and you will drown in it. You're loving dead, kiddo.
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Aug 18, 2019 02:55
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melon cat posted:Need some advice on removing a seized rear strut. 2007 Corolla LE. Do you have/have access to a come-along? If so: hook one end around the bottom of the strut & the other around the frame member on the opposite side & start ratcheting. Try to stay out of the line of fire in the process...she might break loose all at once.
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Aug 18, 2019 03:04
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PainterofCrap posted:Do you have/have access to a come-along? If so: hook one end around the bottom of the strut & the other around the frame member on the opposite side & start ratcheting. melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 03:33
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rdb posted:Injectors can make that sound if they are going bad. I’m not sure of the volvo programming specifics, but on my truck you could check injector balance rates. Youtubed it and it really sounds like it. Thanks! The car is going to get serviced tomorrow, so my dad will mention the noise to them.
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Aug 18, 2019 13:53
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melon cat posted:I think I understand what you're getting at! I could go out and buy a comealong. But I'm just not sure what you mean by the frame member. So connect the free hook to the bottom of the strut, and the stationary hook to which part? Also- should I screw the top strut mount bolts back on when trying this? I would screw them on loose. If you have a ratchet strap or spring compressor, you could try & unload the spring a little to shorten the strut.  PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 16:45
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Actually I just realized what's happening. Turns out that the strut lower part that screws into the control arm IS seized. I used a new strut to illustrate the problem: So the strut can't be pried off because that inner metal sleeve is seized right onto the control arm. The strut is "trying" to pull away but can't since the boot is obviously attached. I've been bathing it in PB blaster. Hesitant to torch it since there is hydraulic fluid inside. Here's a secondary, really unhelpful image of the seized strut:  Can't fit a prybar/chisel into there. I was thinking of hitting it with a hammer to break the bonds but that rubber bushing is acting like padding. Can't cut anything since I don't have access to an angle grinder or air tools. Think I'm in for a fight, here. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 19:16
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It's hard to tell (I know you trying to show us everything the best you can, but perspective, etc. makes it hard.) I'd sawzall it.
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Aug 18, 2019 20:09
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:It's hard to tell (I know you trying to show us everything the best you can, but perspective, etc. makes it hard.) I'd sawzall it.  Looks like you're right. No amount of PB Blaster/hammering is moving this damned thing.
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Aug 18, 2019 20:32
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You could also try a few cycles of heating and quenching the stud. Won't help with directly removing it, but the heat cycling/thermal expansion and contraction may help break up whatever rust/dirt/grime/other poo poo has worked its way in between the strut and the stud.
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Aug 18, 2019 20:48
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melon cat posted:
Is this your daily driver? Hopefully not. If I were you, I'd try to sawzall the outer "ring" that the bottom of the strut off, cut as much rubber bushing off as you can, and then carefully hacksaw the inner "ring" off. It may split apart once you hacksaw through it. Or torch it once you've got the rubber off. Keep a fire extinguisher handy for obvious reasons (fuel tank).
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Aug 18, 2019 21:58
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wesleywillis posted:Is this your daily driver?  Also- I'm considering of getting the Milwaukee hackzall instead of the sawzall. Since I don't have a lift my working area is pretty cramped. I'm barely able to get beneath my car as it is. Am I crazy for considering a hackzall for cutting bolts and thicker pieces of automotive metal? Geoj posted:You could also try a few cycles of heating and quenching the stud. Won't help with directly removing it, but the heat cycling/thermal expansion and contraction may help break up whatever rust/dirt/grime/other poo poo has worked its way in between the strut and the stud. melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 22:25
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Hackzalls are plenty powerful. I'd be less worried about heat on an older strut than a new one. Can you get a two or three jaw puller on it? Even if you can just get that center sleeve to rip out of the bushing, that gives you more ways to attack it (grinder, chisel, etc). Alternatively... how expensive is that control arm? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 22:43
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I broke the head off of a caliper slide bolt today. Luckily I was also replacing said caliper. E: the old slide pins were gunked up with old copper grease. Don't use copper grease on your caliper slide pins, kids. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Aug 18, 2019 |
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Aug 18, 2019 23:19
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And of course, make sure you have the fasteners lined up. edit: Meaning replacement ones.
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Aug 18, 2019 23:29
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melon cat posted:Any safety issues with torching struts? Every guide I've ever read cautions against putting heat on struts. You'd be heating the stud its stuck on, not the strut directly. Get it as hot as possible, then hit it with water. Repeat a few times, see if its made a difference. But yeah, as suggested above - cut off a little more than half of the outer ring, remove the strut, cut or burn away as much of the rubber bushing as possible and then directly go after the inner insert.
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Aug 18, 2019 23:32
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spankmeister posted:I broke the head off of a caliper slide bolt today. Luckily I was also replacing said caliper. JFC not just copper. No anti-seize at all. Slider pins should have silicone lube on them like this: https://agscompany.com/product/sil-glyde-silicone-lubricant-tube-4-oz/
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Aug 18, 2019 23:59
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melon cat posted:Actually I just realized what's happening. Turns out that the strut lower part that screws into the control arm IS seized. I used a new strut to illustrate the problem: Seconding wesleywillis & Geoj. Get a pickle fork in there behind that steel inner bushing (sleeve) & start hammering. If that fails, torch it until the rubber insulator burns down, then hammer off the strut. Them, you torch the loving bushing, or cut it with a wheel (air or Dremel). Burning the fucker is riskier, but oh so satisfying. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Aug 19, 2019 |
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Aug 19, 2019 03:43
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spankmeister posted:I broke the head off of a caliper slide bolt today. Luckily I was also replacing said caliper. I had this happen when doing the front pads on my girlfriend's Matrix a few weeks back, literally the night before we were supposed to make a 700 mile each way trip in it. The local 24 hour Autozone claimed to have the part, so at 1 AM I'm in Parma finding out that the part they had listed as compatible with a 2.4L car was actually the one for a 1.8. We ended up packing everything in to my Fiesta somehow and then I drove the whole way to and from because she's not comfortable driving stick. Nowhere actually stocked the bracket on its own, so when we got back I ended up replacing the entire caliper. At least I know that corner's brand new now...
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Aug 19, 2019 14:37
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I'll be damned, didn't realize they had 24 hour autozones. Gotta imagine that would be interesting at 3am.
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Aug 19, 2019 14:57
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Colostomy Bag posted:I'll be damned, didn't realize they had 24 hour autozones. It's awful. I've made that parts run before. The entire store is full of the stench of desperation.
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Aug 19, 2019 14:59
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Colostomy Bag posted:I'll be damned, didn't realize they had 24 hour autozones. Motronic posted:It's awful. I've made that parts run before.
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Aug 19, 2019 17:10
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wolrah posted:I didn't realize they were a thing either, but it was a nice idea in theory when that bolt head twisted off at nearly midnight. Christ, that's the way it is at 10am in the morning. It would be like stumbling into a Waffle House and ordering a brake caliper for a '84 Trans Am.
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Aug 19, 2019 18:50
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melon cat posted:It is my daily driver. The gear puller idea might work. Don't try to hackzall that stud off. If its like my slightly newer Corolla, doing that will require a whole new rear axle assembly. Its welded at the factory, and I doubt you'll find anyone that can weld that good. Not to mention likely nobody will want to for liability reasons. IOwnCalculus posted:
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Aug 19, 2019 19:44
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C-Euro posted:This is also interesting and I didn't realize that the government actually assigned a dollar value to it. Thanks, I think this makes the monthly train pass the cheaper option for sure. This is the IRS deduction per mile. For most people, actual operating costs are significantly less. In my own experience, when choosing between leaving a bit earlier to take mass transit vs driving myself, mass transit is far less stressful (when it runs on time, and if you're the type that shows up early instead of running in the door at the last minute).
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Aug 19, 2019 20:35
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Hey it's me! The guy with the rear strut problem! And I dremel'ed too deep. I am an idiot! How hosed am I? And am I safe enough to at least drive this off to a place that knows what the gently caress they are doing?  I went deep. Can't believe this poo poo. Extra fun times ahead because the local Toyota warehouse is super backed up and almost every part is on backorder. And it's not like you can just replace this bolt- it's welded onto that entire rear assembly (axle beam, I think? I don't even know):  Just look at that loving gaper. melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Aug 20, 2019 |
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Aug 20, 2019 00:33
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Eh. I doubt you've caused much of a reduction in structural integrity if that's a solid piece. Then again, I'm no ME 
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Aug 20, 2019 02:09
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Yeah, the car's already a dozen years old. Something else will break catastrophically before that does.
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Aug 20, 2019 02:31
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Congratulations! Fill it with JB-Weld (so you can say you did) and mount that strut. Off you go, young man!
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Aug 20, 2019 03:01
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Audi A4 B6 I tore the plastic underside engine cover/skid plate/whatever off again, and this time the paracord and zipties failed and it got lost somewhere along a road, thankfully without damage to the rest of the car. Do I need a new one? a quick google said the consensus was largely no but I drive gravel tracks/farm fields regularly and it seems like that could pose problems
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Aug 20, 2019 10:35
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My engine (diesel light van) has trouble cranking. Normally it's only the first start of the day that's tough. Even if I let it sit hours in the daytime it starts ok in the evening. Except in the really cold up the mountains, I had to jump it off my leisure battery the last two afternoons. I'm going to throw a new battery at it. My leisure battery is still under warrantee so I'll be swapping that out too because it should run a phone charger/laptop off the inverter longer than it does. I'm not really asking anything this time, just cos I know I'm going to update you later if it changes anything. Also, this has stopped so I haven't been able to check yet: Leperflesh posted:Possibly, or it could be a pulley bearing failing, or one of the components driven by the belt. Open the hood with the engine running and direct your ears to different areas of the belt train and see if it seems to be coming from one particular component. Also look for anywhere that could be intermittently rubbing against the belt(s), such as a radiator hose.
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Aug 20, 2019 11:03
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DesperateDan posted:Audi A4 B6 I mean, something snagged and tore it off. Without it there, that something could have snagged a more important part of the car... I'd bet you could find a metal replacement out there if you are having issues with it.
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Aug 20, 2019 12:13
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DrBouvenstein posted:The only thing I can think is that the cheap aftermarket cruise control switches I got have a short in them, since the wiring harness for the cruise control buttons are also the wires for the horn. From a few weeks ago, but if anyone cares, this was it. The CC buttons/wire harness had a short to ground causing the horn to go off. I didn't have a lot of free time lately, so I put off doing more diagnosing/replacing. I just drove around without CC or a horn (removed the horn relay so it wasn't on.) Finally confirmed it was the CC buttons, got a replacement, and everything is good now. Very glad I didn't have to touch the clockspring.
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Aug 20, 2019 14:08
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Nothing serious but something weird happened the other day. I was driving up to visit my family and one of my cousins said he wanted a drone so I packed up a couple that I had accumulating dust (nothing big, just dinky little super-entry-level ones) to give to him and I plugged the chargers into the USB ports. Our iPhone batteries are much bigger so I thought not much of it. (Of course the charging circuitry is much more advanced, which is probably the cause here.) But I slowed down at a stop light and I look down and my speedometer said 20 when I was almost at a stop, ha. Then went down in chunks till it eventually read zero. Then my headlights turned on and it was still super bright (which is probably what made my infotainment screen go dim). I can't imagine it was drawing a ton of electricity but the circuitry for these stupid toys is probably super cheap. Everything worked fine again after unplugging it all. Probably why scotty kilmer says to be careful with what you plug in and leave in the USB/aux power ports.
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Aug 20, 2019 18:31
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yamdankee posted:Nothing serious but something weird happened the other day. I was driving up to visit my family and one of my cousins said he wanted a drone so I packed up a couple that I had accumulating dust (nothing big, just dinky little super-entry-level ones) to give to him and I plugged the chargers into the USB ports. Our iPhone batteries are much bigger so I thought not much of it. (Of course the charging circuitry is much more advanced, which is probably the cause here.) But I slowed down at a stop light and I look down and my speedometer said 20 when I was almost at a stop, ha. Then went down in chunks till it eventually read zero. Then my headlights turned on and it was still super bright (which is probably what made my infotainment screen go dim). I think your battery might be dying??
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Aug 20, 2019 22:04
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My electronics acted up a few days ago and it turned out the lovely roads in town rattled my car enough to loosen one of my terminals, maybe try double checking them and tightening them up.
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Aug 21, 2019 02:56
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Speaking of electronics, are the ~$15 cigarette lighter splitters you can find on Amazon generally safe? I got a dashcam that draws power from the cigarette lighter and I forgot that would mean I have nowhere to plug in my phone. I just need something simple, not the crazy ones with 3 cigarette ports and LEDs or whatever, but they all look pretty janky and I know nothing about electronics.
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Aug 21, 2019 04:34
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I assume you can't get a double USB adapter? Less janky looking anyway.
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Aug 21, 2019 04:47
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Lester Shy posted:Speaking of electronics, are the ~$15 cigarette lighter splitters you can find on Amazon generally safe? I got a dashcam that draws power from the cigarette lighter and I forgot that would mean I have nowhere to plug in my phone. I just need something simple, not the crazy ones with 3 cigarette ports and LEDs or whatever, but they all look pretty janky and I know nothing about electronics. They're pretty janky, but not unsafe imo. A double USB adapter is a better option.
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Aug 21, 2019 08:01
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So reading on different forums there are always people that claim that for example buying Brembo brake discs+pads is never going to be as good as OEM even if Brembo supply the discs / pads as they use the best stuff for OEM and the Brembo named stuff is a step down in quality and sold to the aftermarket. Is there any truth to this? Edit: Considering doing the rear brake pads on my Dads 2014 Volvo V70 as they wanted about $260 to do it. For that price I can buy a Volvo diagnostic tool and pads and still come out ahead. The tool will be useful since my dad is not planning on replacing the car. TRW is a pretty good brand, isn't it? I wonder who makes the OEM Volvo pads. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:57 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 10:43
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Lester Shy posted:Speaking of electronics, are the ~$15 cigarette lighter splitters you can find on Amazon generally safe? I got a dashcam that draws power from the cigarette lighter and I forgot that would mean I have nowhere to plug in my phone. I just need something simple, not the crazy ones with 3 cigarette ports and LEDs or whatever, but they all look pretty janky and I know nothing about electronics. I had a 3-usb slot adaptor for the cig socket It went poof after a coupla months Took 2 portable power packs down with it but thankfully not my phone which was in the 2.1A socket iirc I replaced it with a 2-usb slot one
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Aug 21, 2019 12:11
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