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Mazz did you see the screenshots? Any improvements you can suggest?
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Aug 21, 2019 14:41
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insta posted:Mazz did you see the screenshots? Any improvements you can suggest? You probably have a better grasp on that kind of construction than me, it’s pretty neat. I only had time to glance at them I’ll look closer after work.
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Aug 21, 2019 15:00
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So does wiring hold on to the max wattage you've passed through it? I was rewiring my base (spliting things up into multiple circuits, wiring up smart batteries) and the fragment of the main circuit still insisted that 4kW was flowing through it. Had to deconstruct and remake the wiring fir it to read 'properly'
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Aug 21, 2019 15:11
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It shouldn't, but I guess maybe if you rewired it in a particular way that might have stayed as the "main" circuit or something. Generally when I split the base up into sectors and hook them to transformers it works out the max wattage correctly per circuit.
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Aug 21, 2019 15:15
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@Travic, if you put a second row of metal tiles on top of the first row, it gives you a place to do a lot more heat removal/deletion (just insulate above that). Take the excess p-water from your terlets and priority-join it to a pump in the slime biome somewhere sucking p-water from a pit, run it through radiant copper pipes through the second metal tiles, and use that hot water to feed pinchas. This will help drive down the heat in the water coolant loop, which gives you more of a multiplier for the oxygen cooling. I don't know how much better this is over just an aquatuner / steam turbine heat-deleter, although when I ran it, it was very power-positive with the hydrogen. There should be enough left over to run the bathroom sieve and pincha-pump, at least. If you build one in survival, note that the electrolysers will starve initially if the ejection sensor is still at 99C. You may need to run it at 30C for a dozen cycles until the whole system is up to temp. The hydrogen room doesn't need to be hydrogen, and can be anything that exchanges heat. Even granite or obsidian tiles may work, although really the best is filling it with water as well (or diamond / refined aluminum tiles). I had a lot of janky stuff like this getting my Oaisse base up and running, since my only source of water was a salt water geyser at 95C 
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Aug 21, 2019 15:37
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apparently mini liquid pumps sterilize liquids as they pass them   Wish I'd known that before setting up all this bullshit 
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Aug 21, 2019 15:38
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Yea, but A) That sterilization could easily get patched out later and B) Your serious setup does the same thing for less power and pumps more liquid.
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Aug 21, 2019 15:50
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You really don't need a lot of sterile water, only for cooking, so I'm totally fine with lower throughput. I'd just use it to top off a tiny pitcher pump tank of like 2x2 tiles of water. I only built that big stupid giant sterilizer thing because, well, it's a big stupid giant sterilizer thing and everybody ought to build that at some point I really doubt the sterilizing behavior is not intended since it says everywhere else on plastic descriptions that it has antiseptic properties.
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Aug 21, 2019 15:58
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I would suggest that the reason it has 45 germs in it is because there's only 200 grams of water in there. Which is 0.225 germs per gram, as opposed to the tank, which is 0.23-ish germs per gram. Not a big help, really. OwlFancier fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 15:59
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no germs are making it out of the pump, I noticed it because no germs are making it to the sterilizer setup.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:03
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That could be because the input rate is so slow that they die almost instantly. Specifically if germs hit a critical low density in a substance, they die off very rapidly, so if you're filling a full tank with a trickle of germy water, it might just kill them. Liquid in pipes doesn't show germ content, weirdly, but if it's in the pump it should come out the other end. If that is the case, conceivably you should be able to replicate it by using a normal pump and pressure valves to throttle it down to tiny amounts. OwlFancier fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 16:05
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I'm not 100% sure whether this works the way it looks or not, I'll fool around with it and come back. e: yeah never mind, output has germs Flesh Forge fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 16:12
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Your easiest way to check might be to get someone to drain the pipe and see whether the resultant fluid has germs in it or not.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:13
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OwlFancier posted:That could be because the input rate is so slow that they die almost instantly. Specifically if germs hit a critical low density in a substance, they die off very rapidly, so if you're filling a full tank with a trickle of germy water, it might just kill them. Francis John had a setup on his Youtube channel that did this. He put 3 tanks in sequence, filled them up in a chlorine room, and let it sit. Once they were disinfected, he just let it rip. The 10 germs/sec being added to the big tank hit that critical-low density and they all died off immediately. It had nothing to do with the chlorine and could disinfect at full 10kg/sec.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:15
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Downside being you need to keep the tanks full, if they ever run low then it won't work, which could be difficult given there's no easy way to measure how full a tank is. You could limit the output to a similar low level per tank but you still need to keep the input at pressure. Which you could again do with another feed tank, but it's still reliant on you having a net positive amount of input water. I'm using a chlorine room with timer connected shutoffs to make sure the water sits in there for a while before going to the main pressure head tanks.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:18
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OwlFancier posted:Your easiest way to check might be to get someone to drain the pipe and see whether the resultant fluid has germs in it or not. I just built a short pipe run from the mini pump to a reservoir so no chance of the germs coming from anywhere but the water in the pipe, oh well - one of those things where you think "huh wonder why nobody noticed this" "oh it's because it isn't a thing"
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Aug 21, 2019 16:26
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My god, this game is addictive as hell. I bought it yesterday and planned to just play a couple of hours before dinner. I ended up going to bed at 5 am without dinner.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:51
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OwlFancier posted:It shouldn't, but I guess maybe if you rewired it in a particular way that might have stayed as the "main" circuit or something. Generally when I split the base up into sectors and hook them to transformers it works out the max wattage correctly per circuit. I wouldn't be surprised if I hooked something up poorly/oddly. While I think I have a grasp of the basics of basics of plumbing and ventilation, electricity is baffling me. I'd like to start again and test things on a small scale, but I've nursed the Unpleasant Panopticon along for over 100 cycles, and I'm determined to hit either oil or space.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:17
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Pigbottom posted:My god, this game is addictive as hell. I bought it yesterday and planned to just play a couple of hours before dinner. I ended up going to bed at 5 am without dinner. That doesn't really stop, btw. Eventually your SO just grounds you from it for a bit.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:20
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The weird thing to remember which is what confused me at first is that it doesn't actually calculate electrical "flow" or whatever, you can connect a 1.2k object to a battery with 1k wire, and then make a little offshoot that has a 10w light on it, and the wire to the light is what burns out, despite that actual branch of the circuit only possibly drawing 10w. Everything active on a circuit puts load on the entire circuit, so you don't want redundant wires and you can't increase capacity by building more wires unless you completely separate them with transformers.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:21
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OwlFancier posted:The weird thing to remember which is what confused me at first is that it doesn't actually calculate electrical "flow" or whatever, you can connect a 1.2k object to a battery with 1k wire, and then make a little offshoot that has a 10w light on it, and the wire to the light is what burns out, despite that actual branch of the circuit only possibly drawing 10w. My fully-automated 12-bay hatch ranch with incubators has a potential draw of 8.4kw and I run it on a single 1kw wire 
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Aug 21, 2019 17:25
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Anybody have oil reservoir builds they like to use?
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Aug 21, 2019 17:34
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OwlFancier posted:The weird thing to remember which is what confused me at first is that it doesn't actually calculate electrical "flow" or whatever, you can connect a 1.2k object to a battery with 1k wire, and then make a little offshoot that has a 10w light on it, and the wire to the light is what burns out, despite that actual branch of the circuit only possibly drawing 10w. This part I had figured out (after lots of repairs)... OwlFancier posted:Everything active on a circuit puts load on the entire circuit, so you don't want redundant wires and you can't increase capacity by building more wires unless you completely separate them with transformers. But this is the odd part because I had first tried to isolate chunks of the big original circuit with transformers and it didnt help. I wonder if now that I've 'discharged' all that extra wattage I can try it again. As it stands now I have three seperate generators in different parts of my base powering completely isolated circuits, and that eats up alot of space.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:37
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CainFortea posted:492718924 No luck either. That sucks. OwlFancier posted:The weird thing to remember which is what confused me at first is that it doesn't actually calculate electrical "flow" or whatever, you can connect a 1.2k object to a battery with 1k wire, and then make a little offshoot that has a 10w light on it, and the wire to the light is what burns out, despite that actual branch of the circuit only possibly drawing 10w. One trick here Ive learned is that wire bridges take the brunt of all overload on the entire line, so if you have circuits in areas you can’t fix overload on, like a sealed room, you can add a bridge someplace very accessible and just have that eat all the damage till you fix the overload problem elsewhere. Not much time to look at these posts in detail but will after work and see if I can help Mazz fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 17:38
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OwlFancier posted:Downside being you need to keep the tanks full, if they ever run low then it won't work, which could be difficult given there's no easy way to measure how full a tank is. You could limit the output to a similar low level per tank but you still need to keep the input at pressure. Which you could again do with another feed tank, but it's still reliant on you having a net positive amount of input water. There is a way to check if the tank is full. You put two bridges, connect both inputs on the same line, one after the other. Then loop back to the 1st bridge. put a sensor there, and connect it to a valve on the output side. Fluid goes into the reservoirs and doesn't come out, once they are full though the fluid will go to the next bridge through the sensor, opening the output letting the input go in. So you always have full tanks that output as much as they input.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:46
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My brain just glazed over there cos pipe hierarchies hurt my head still.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:56
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 Bad water comes in pipe on right side of picture. There are 3 more reservoirs daisy chained to the left of the pic with a valve on the output that is controlled by the sensor in the center of this pic. You can copy right off this pic, it's pretty straight forward and makes a lot more sense once you see it in action.
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Aug 21, 2019 18:02
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some novice level stuff for people just starting on arboria or verdante (more for Arboria really), here's a petrol generator cooling setup that requires nothing but wheezeworts and a little pisswater and won't overheat, aluminum radiant pipe circulating around in an unpowered loop with a little bit of drip from the generator's own outfall: and a really simple rust deoxidizer setup that also won't overheat or pass any chlorine out, it's been stable without a filter for idk, like a hundred cycles now; this is a lot more saltvines and space than you need  all the tutorial stuff I can find is pretty advanced like OK FIRST MAKE ALL YOUR poo poo OUT OF STEEL
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Aug 21, 2019 23:18
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insta posted:Mazz did you see the screenshots? Any improvements you can suggest? I took another look and I don't see any way to really improve that, it's very cool. I assume the whole thing is powered by the hydrogen generators and therefore self powering? Definitely a cool SPOM in that sense then. insta posted:Anybody have oil reservoir builds they like to use? I don't have any specific build techniques but this seed I'm using provided a very interesting setup for an oil field.  2 (3 actually, one above the main walkway on top) reservoirs directly above a water geyser, which is pumped right to the reservoirs. I don't really have to give a poo poo about temperature since it's location is way off the centerline, but I'm cooling the NG buildup as part of the hydrogen loop that is cooling the storage alongside it. Space is entirely isolated and was vacuumed empty, so no filters needed (although it's sent to the storage tanks first anyway so it wouldn't matter regardless). I'm planning on building my refineries right inside that open space, and having the petroleum piped through the big centerline loop system to my power area, where it'll be used however. This isolates all the production NG of the entire chain to that defined space, which I'll ship off to wherever it's needed later. I'm tempted to also try to come up with my own variation of an oil boiler, but I have over 7kg/s of oil production in my base right now so I think I'm going to backburner that till all major stuff is fully functional. Right now I'm powering like 16kw of stuff off 2 coal generators and a shitload of clock management, which is my next big fix. On that note, starting to get crowded, thankfully most of the major stuff is in place on this side.  Mazz fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 00:30
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can you shear hatches or is that just something you rubber stamp?
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Aug 22, 2019 01:50
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Flesh Forge posted:can you shear hatches or is that just something you rubber stamp? ?
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Aug 22, 2019 01:51
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You can't shear hatches, only Dreckos.
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Aug 22, 2019 02:40
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Well you seem t have shearing stations in the stable rooms that have hatches in them E: how do you collect pokeshell molt, just wait?
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Aug 22, 2019 02:41
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Do you use oil(?) for your liquid locks because it doesn't give the 'sopping wet' debuff? Or is there some other reason? e:vvv oh that makes more sense, thanks Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 02:53
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This is because the temperature range for oil is a lot wider than water, it prevents coming back to your liquid lock and finding ice or steam and your liquid lock gone.
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Aug 22, 2019 02:59
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I feel like Arboria is a harder long run map than people give it credit for because no gold amalgam = no high temp material until you make steel, I'm getting to that point in my game where I'd like to try some of the more advanced things and hmm, no, I have no idea how to cool that/keep it from overheating I have a big boy power grid now but I'm a little stumped as to how to start messing with the telescope/planetarium stuff because it all starts requiring high heat tolerance, more power, more fuel etc. You kind of have to learn and implement a lot of different poo poo all at once, seems like. We're on like cycle 450 and just barely starting to have a lot of clean cool water and just now getting enough bristle berry seeds to get away from 24/7 mealwood. I am very sure I'm playing really slow compared to an experienced player and that doesn't bother me, it's just getting to that point where I have no idea how to make the more complex stuff. For steel do I need to be ranching pokeshells or ....
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Aug 22, 2019 03:04
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Away all Goats posted:Do you use oil(?) for your liquid locks because it doesn't give the 'sopping wet' debuff? Or is there some other reason? Joiny posted:This is because the temperature range for oil is a lot wider than water, it prevents coming back to your liquid lock and finding ice or steam and your liquid lock gone. Mainly this. The situations it's a big concern are very rare, and water is fine like 99% of the time. I just do it so I never have to think about it again.
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Aug 22, 2019 03:14
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Flesh Forge posted:Well you seem t have shearing stations in the stable rooms that have hatches in them You're seeing the sheared drecko, they look like hatches stashed up in the corner there.   My hatches are by my coal plants for the time being  That top ranch is a critter dropoff for when the others get over their 8 critter limit. I look over there, drag the attack command across, and it's like a space battle in there. Since it's visible in that picture, I got the chlorine tank system thing down to one tank, a door, and a clock sensor.  By only closing the door for that portion of the day, the liquid is trapped in the tank long enough to kill off the germs, but with enough time for water to get sieve'd and refill the piping to the toilet. The extra tank + germ sensor at this point are just backup, they don't seem to get any actual use. I have 2 12 man shifts staggered by a couple blocks, so everyone gets a shitter and shower in their downtime/bathroom block. Mazz fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 03:19
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Flesh Forge posted:I feel like Arboria is a harder long run map than people give it credit for because no gold amalgam = no high temp material until you make steel, I'm getting to that point in my game where I'd like to try some of the more advanced things and hmm, no, I have no idea how to cool that/keep it from overheating Pre-space materials, the only thing I need high temp material for is Aquatuners, and even they benefit a lot from using steel over gold so skipping gold on Arboria hasn't hurt too much. I've built my smelter area in a cold biome, and just use the passive cold temp to keep the machinery cool while using polluted water as coolant fluid and dumping the 60 C + waste water into a insulated holding tank (No clue what I'll do with it, but whatever). This got me 2-3k steel and let me build my geothermal plant (needed 1x steel aquatuner, and a few steel bits like a water tank or gas pump). It's been a bit of a pain not having gold for just lazy 'high enough temp' machinery, but honestly just rushing a bit of steel on a crude setup isn't too difficult or worrisome. Once you can build a steel aquatuner, building a aquatuner + steam turbine cooling setup is easy enough, and can use that to cool your smelting facility and expand it as needed. For getting the materials for steel, well iron is easy enough. Refined Carbon is easy to make from the Kiln, although you need a lot less of it then you might expect; a single craft makes 100kg and steel only takes 20k per. For Lime which is the only real challenging material to get, the easiest thing I've found is just making a few Atmo suits and send some dupes into the oil biome to harvest Fossil. That can be pulverized into Lime and is often the easiest way early on to get some initial steel going. Faldoncow fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 06:11
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| # ? May 30, 2024 22:42 |
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Flesh Forge posted:some novice level stuff for people just starting on arboria or verdante (more for Arboria really), here's a petrol generator cooling setup that requires nothing but wheezeworts and a little pisswater and won't overheat, aluminum radiant pipe circulating around in an unpowered loop with a little bit of drip from the generator's own outfall: You might have a solution for cooling down your Metal Refinery in the first picture. As long as the ethanol is cool enough to not vaporize when it's used as coolant you can send it straight through the Metal Refinery and down to that Petrol Gen to be burned up. Also you should be able to make ceramics in a Kiln. It has a 200+ temp property and can be used in pipes and making a Metal Refinery.
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Aug 22, 2019 06:23
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