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KakerMix posted:The rule with BFG KO2s is that you MUST have white letters out and if you don't you and I are going to have words.  Always. On all things.
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Aug 23, 2019 19:32
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SO's 2012 Ford Fiesta has 2 seemingly loose items in the engine bay. One looks like a power plug, the other maybe a sensor. The power plug splits off the wiring that goes to the radiator fan and is held in place by a cable routing clip on top of the radiator (can see this in the background of the image, above the top radiator hose). The sensor is currently just sitting loose on top of the radiator fan assembly, and I'm not exactly sure where it comes from (heads back toward the firewall between the engine/battery). Anyone know what these are for, and whether or not they should be connected to something? She recently had some work done on the car so it's possible the mechanic didn't put everything back together properly. Not CEL yet...
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Aug 24, 2019 23:46
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STR posted:The 10 minute relearn works if the battery hasn't been disconnected AND the ignition switch is only a bit out of spec. Otherwise it takes the full 30 minutes of being on. Tried this today with all doors shut. I turned it on, and left it for over 40 minutes. The security light was on solid the whole time - not even a flicker. The relearn procedure, for whatever reason, isn't working. I also noticed that the power locks don't work anymore, and the headlights / taillights came on and stayed on the whole time I had the car turned on. When I pulled the keys out, the parking lights and taillights stayed on until I disconnected the battery about 15 minutes later. I don't know what's going on, but am throwing in the towel. Probably will have it towed to a shop on Monday as I have to be out of this house ASAP and can't continue to work on it. Thanks everyone who replied for the suggestions.
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Aug 25, 2019 02:14
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Uggggh why is everything so small and strange angle and requiring me to remove the dashboard to do anything? I just need to check the blower motor, resistor, and relay.
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Aug 25, 2019 07:50
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Anyone using comma.ai openpilot? Just found about this and I'm very interested. Wish there were more information about Lexus models though as I'm in the market for one. Toyota has a really bad range here in Sweden so don't want one, really.
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Aug 25, 2019 08:54
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I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 16V, it had a problem where it wouldn't start, it'd click but not turn the starter. I went and checked all the fuses with a multimeter, cleaned some corrosion off one of the fuses and now it starts, HOORAY! However when the car is running the battery isn't getting any charge from the alternator, I used my multimeter to check the voltage on the battery terminals and it's 12.35V with the engine running even when i got my stepdad to rev it up to 4000. turning the lights on dropped it to 11.8V. Is there likely any fuse that would stop the alt from getting upto charging voltage, it's very hard to get to the alternator so what should I be checking next? I considered maybe the rectifier module, or alternator brushes could be at fault, would there be any fuse that stop the system charging?
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Aug 25, 2019 18:39
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Crankit posted:I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 16V, it had a problem  Seriously: if you had corrosion/high resistance in the charging circuit, it may have killed your alternator. If it’s easier to change out the stator/brushes/rectifier, try that first. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Aug 25, 2019 |
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Aug 25, 2019 19:07
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Crankit posted:I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 16V, it had a problem where it wouldn't start, it'd click but not turn the starter. I went and checked all the fuses with a multimeter, cleaned some corrosion off one of the fuses and now it starts, HOORAY! I would stand to reason if one connection wasn't working due to corrosion, then multiple connections could use a cleaning.
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Aug 25, 2019 19:16
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Is there a fuse on the alternator field circuit? I’ve never worked on anything that had one, but I’ve heard of them.
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Aug 25, 2019 21:14
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StormDrain posted:I would stand to reason if one connection wasn't working due to corrosion, then multiple connections could use a cleaning. I can follow the logic on this, I'll have another go at fuse contact cleaning tomorrow. MrYenko posted:Is there a fuse on the alternator field circuit? I’ve never worked on anything that had one, but I’ve heard of them. I peeped the wiring diagram in the haynes manual, and I couldn't work it out.
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Aug 25, 2019 21:20
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Crankit posted:I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 16V, it had a problem where it wouldn't start, it'd click but not turn the starter. I went and checked all the fuses with a multimeter, cleaned some corrosion off one of the fuses and now it starts, HOORAY! This sounds dumb, but with some cars if the battery indicator light in the dash is either burned out or missing, the alternator won't charge. That example is for a Subaru, but I seem to recall some GMs were like this as well. Something to check at least.
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Aug 25, 2019 21:25
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Black88GTA posted:This sounds dumb, but with some cars if the battery indicator light in the dash is either burned out or missing, the alternator won't charge. That example is for a Subaru, but I seem to recall some GMs were like this as well. Something to check at least. Nissan, Chrysler, Honda... many/most? companies did this when incandescent bulbs were still the norm.
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Aug 25, 2019 22:05
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Are there any good cheap home repair car ramps, or should I just use 2x4s to build one myself? Reviews on Amazon for the plastic ones are all over the place 
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Aug 25, 2019 23:58
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Splinter posted:SO's 2012 Ford Fiesta has 2 seemingly loose items in the engine bay. One looks like a power plug, the other maybe a sensor. The power plug splits off the wiring that goes to the radiator fan and is held in place by a cable routing clip on top of the radiator (can see this in the background of the image, above the top radiator hose). The sensor is currently just sitting loose on top of the radiator fan assembly, and I'm not exactly sure where it comes from (heads back toward the firewall between the engine/battery). The pic is of something called the transmission breather vent and it is supposed to clip on somewhere near the radiator fan I believe. Seems like they fall off a lot. Edit try googling CJNKA
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Aug 26, 2019 01:53
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MrYenko posted:Is there a fuse on the alternator field circuit? I’ve never worked on anything that had one, but I’ve heard of them. 4k RPM should be enough for it to auto-excite regardless of field current or a lovely incandescent setup without a bypass resistor, but you could try jumping 12v from someone convenient (probably right off the battery) to the field terminal on the alt while it's started to see if it makes a difference.
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Aug 26, 2019 02:18
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WHY WONT MY 240Z START!?!? I am trying to bring back my 240z that has been in storage for 12 years. I put a brand new set of carbs from Ztherapy on it. I put a new 280z distributor (removed the points). - The car cranks. - I see that I have spark to the spark plug using a timing light - I have sprayed copious amounts of starter fluid in the carbs About every 5 seconds or so of cranking I can hear a slight firing-cough. Otherwise, it just sits there cranking like it has no spark or fuel at all. The spark plugs are fairly new and other than a ton of carbon from failed starts, seem fine. I am running the positive straight from the battery to the coil just to eliminate any possible complications. If my distributor was 180 out, I would hear it firing but it would fire the wrong direction and slow/stop the engine cranking. Even if the timing was horribly off (which I assume it is) it should still run roughly, correct? GAAH!! What am I missing? Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Aug 26, 2019 |
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Aug 26, 2019 03:13
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Air filter full of dust and dead stuff? I don't knoe, but if fuel and spark is ok then surely it's oxygen that's stopping things going bang
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Aug 26, 2019 03:38
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Tai-Pan posted:WHY WONT MY 240Z START!?!? Your firing order is off at the very least. The ignition timing may still be off. Set it to TDC at #1 mechanically: using the timing mark on the pulley & make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 tower, then make sure the rest of the wires are distributed to the proper cylinders by following the firing order around the cap/towers. I know you already did this. Take a break & a deep breath & do it again. It's not hard to screw this up when doing a new distributor install. Ask me how I know.
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Aug 26, 2019 03:43
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Recheck your timing anyway, and a compression test maybe?
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Aug 26, 2019 03:44
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PainterofCrap posted:Your firing order is off at the very least. The ignition timing may still be off. This all day. I like to stuff a glove in the spark plug hole of the cylinder and wait for it to pop out confirming compression stroke. Or a compression tester now that I have one.
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Aug 26, 2019 03:54
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PainterofCrap posted:know you already did this. Take a break & a deep breath & do it again. Sage advice right here.
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Aug 26, 2019 04:18
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Yeah, sometimes you really need to stop and take a breather and sleep on it before continuing. I got a check engine light after using cambelt tools and all. Engine ran fine, but had to redo the whole thing. Slept on it and started again refreshed. After I redid it, it's now perfect. I think the tensioner had slipped from being slightly undertorqued and lost tension. lovely thing is that I stripped parts of the engine mount to block bolts thread (in the block) despite using the low end of the right torque specs. There are 5 bolts though and they still hold it in (pretty low torque as well) but I'm still loving pissed off that they stripped despite me doing it properly. VVV: I guess I should helicoil it or something, but I really can't be bothered. As long as it's holding, it's holding. But yeah, loving sucks. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Aug 26, 2019 |
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Aug 26, 2019 04:33
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'm still loving pissed off that they stripped despite me doing it properly. This poo poo is the worst, doing it all more properly than you would have naturally - even thinking of a corner to cut and saying to yourself "naah, cmon, let's be good about this" - and then it still fucks you anyway. In not-unrelated news, the people (previous owners)who did the solar panel setup for the leisure battery were complete loving muppets and it's gonna be a bitch to sort right simplefish fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Aug 26, 2019 |
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Aug 26, 2019 07:19
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From yesterdays alternator thingy I went and cleaned some fuses, I put the key in the ignition and the little battery symbol doesn't light up when it should. Using a flashlight to get a better peek at the alternator I noticed there's the little plug thingy plugged into the back and it looks like it should have 2 wires, but i can only see one plugged in, and the other thing looks like it had a green wire that snapped. It's real tight I can only just fit my fat arm down to the connector between the engine and front bumper.
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Aug 26, 2019 17:31
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Tai-Pan posted:It's not hard to screw this up when doing a new distributor install. Ask me how I know. It's especially easy to screw this up if you have an oil pump driven distributor that has all of a few degrees of rotation available for timing adjustment once installed, expecting the computer to handle everything. The distributor shaft rotates a bit no matter what when you install it. I'm looking at you, Nissan KA. That was babby's first timing chain job, and it took a lot of head scratching to even get it to backfire after. (then a lot of cursing to replace the head gasket, because of course that engine uses the edge of the head gasket to seal the top of the timing cover and if you pinch it you're hosed and AHHHHH  )
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Aug 26, 2019 18:05
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So, what started out as a simple oil change in my 1999 Chrysler (Plymouth) Voyager 2.4i has currently culminated in me removing the oil pan because I have to have the oil plug rethreaded. Much to my surprise I've found a piece of chain marinating in the old oil - approximately 35cm long. I've consulted with a mechanic who said that it must be the balance shaft chain. A quick read of the Haynes manual suggests that replacing it would necessitate removing the engine and all other kinds of fun, something that would definitely cost a sum comparable to the value of the car. The guy said that while he has no idea, if the engine was running smooth so far, it might not be a necessity to replace it. Does anyone have any idea if I should just leave it?
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Aug 26, 2019 18:08
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Jim DiGriz posted:So, what started out as a simple oil change in my 1999 Chrysler (Plymouth) Voyager 2.4i has currently culminated in me removing the oil pan because I have to have the oil plug rethreaded. Much to my surprise I've found a piece of chain marinating in the old oil - approximately 35cm long. People pull the balance shafts on spec neons all the time. Same motor I think. Yeah, it's rattly in some RPM ranges but it sounds like you're already used to that.
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Aug 26, 2019 18:22
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Jim DiGriz posted:So, what started out as a simple oil change in my 1999 Chrysler (Plymouth) Voyager 2.4i has currently culminated in me removing the oil pan because I have to have the oil plug rethreaded. Much to my surprise I've found a piece of chain marinating in the old oil - approximately 35cm long. Leave it be, try and get a better vehicle if you can. It scored a zero on the Euro NCAP. Edit : it's the same family as the Neons. I think the Neon only got the 2.4L with turbo. But I think the advice still applies. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Aug 26, 2019 |
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Aug 26, 2019 18:33
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Jim DiGriz posted:So, what started out as a simple oil change in my 1999 Chrysler (Plymouth) Voyager 2.4i has currently culminated in me removing the oil pan because I have to have the oil plug rethreaded. Much to my surprise I've found a piece of chain marinating in the old oil - approximately 35cm long. Likely the balance shaft chain. The real issue is when people remove the balance shaft (for more POWAH) and don't plug the oil galleys properly. Leaving a disconnected one in there won't do anything but make it vibrate a bit more (and probably wear out your motor mounts quicker, but it's a 99 Voyager... your motor mounts are already metal on metal anyway if you're like 99.99999% of other 90s/00s minivan owners). Some engines also run the water pump off of the balance shaft chain (  GM ). Your engine doesn't, so leaving it that way isn't gonna hurt anything.Crankit posted:From yesterdays alternator thingy I went and cleaned some fuses, I put the key in the ignition and the little battery symbol doesn't light up when it should. Using a flashlight to get a better peek at the alternator I noticed there's the little plug thingy plugged into the back and it looks like it should have 2 wires, but i can only see one plugged in, and the other thing looks like it had a green wire that snapped. It's real tight I can only just fit my fat arm down to the connector between the engine and front bumper. To quote South Main Auto Repair - "Well there's yer problem lady!" Find a new pigtail, splice it in, plug it in. If you rev it to ~4k it'll probably start charging, but may or may not keep charging. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 26, 2019 |
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Aug 26, 2019 18:42
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Okay, thanks all, that's a relief. That NCAP score is damning however - though as a poor European, I assume I've driven even worse cars. But yeah, any day now the 12-hour days come to fruition and I buy something with a manufacturing date starting with a 2.STR posted:if you're like 99.99999% of other 90s/00s minivan owners I'm not familiar with the type, I've only had it for two years  What are we like?
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Aug 26, 2019 18:56
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Most minivans at that age are getting the very bare minimum to keep them moving (this usually excludes oil changes).
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Aug 26, 2019 19:11
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Oh, should have guessed. Despite my unlucky streak with this car, I try to give her a nice last few years. And also learning a lot about basic repairs and sunk cost fallacy.
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Aug 26, 2019 19:27
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Well I mean, as far as a DIY... it's a bastard to work on, but there's millions of them in junkyards, so parts are dirt cheap.
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Aug 26, 2019 20:35
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STR posted:Well I mean, as far as a DIY... it's a bastard to work on, but there's millions of them in junkyards, so parts are dirt cheap. Around here 2.5TD parts make up around 80% of the used market, sadly. The 2.4 petrol was and is a relatively uncommon variant (event though it was made in Austria, a country next door). No wonder though, the mileage is pretty poo poo. But I really like the way it looks and how I can transport almost anything and anyone.
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Aug 26, 2019 21:07
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I must live under a rock, they are using the term 'triage' in the issue council now?
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Aug 26, 2019 21:17
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C-Bangin' it 
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Jim DiGriz posted:Oh, should have guessed. Despite my unlucky streak with this car, I try to give her a nice last few years. And also learning a lot about basic repairs and sunk cost fallacy. It's cool, I'm often driving a 26 year old Mercedes and now the airbag light is on :fml:
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Aug 26, 2019 21:54
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Jim DiGriz posted:Around here 2.5TD parts make up around 80% of the used market, sadly. The 2.4 petrol was and is a relatively uncommon variant (event though it was made in Austria, a country next door). No wonder though, the mileage is pretty poo poo. But I really like the way it looks and how I can transport almost anything and anyone. Wait, they sold a diesel Voyager? Mind blown.
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Aug 27, 2019 02:44
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STR posted:Wait, they sold a diesel Voyager? European market (I was surprised there was no 2.0TD edition or a 1.6 petrol, actually). Ironically I was concerned about the many maintenance issues of old Diesels, that's why I went with this. Though I also typically do short trips, not good for any internal combustion engine but even worse for those.
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Aug 27, 2019 06:01
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I'm on the side of it all being snake oil, but still - do add-to-fuel diesel injector cleaners do anything to help keeping injectors clean?
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Aug 27, 2019 11:30
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I'm replacing the leaf springs and rear shocks on my 99 ranger, they are pretty shot on the drivers side  so I figure I'll just do both sides. I'm using the existing spring hangers, but everything else will be new. (leaf springs, bushings, shackles, U bolts and spring seats).I'm figuring it will be relatively straight forward but is there anything that I should look out for when I'm doing it? Any hints or anything I should know? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Aug 27, 2019 |
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Aug 27, 2019 14:21
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