|
George Zimmer posted:Fujimi and Aoshima are both very good. Hasegawa isn’t bad, but they don’t seem to release many newly tooled kits. All of these manufacturers make very few US automaker kits, however. I'm much more interested in motorsports than doing any more American muscle cars, so these are great recommendations, thank you.
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 15:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 11:43 |
|
|
im curious, are there any services you'd recommend that do resin (or similar levels of quality to a form 2) 3d prints for a reasonable price?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 02:18
|
|
|
Maquette V-2 engine and transmission kit that's going to go into my T-34-85. This this is pretty awful: bare on the details, fairly vague directions, no details for the engine compartment (air filters, radiators, fuel tanks, final drives, etc). This makes displaying the engine compartment open impossible, but I am planning on leaving the maintenance hatch open since you can't see through the air intake grille at all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 02:30
|
|
|
Jonny Nox posted:good posting lately. Train stuff was getting sparse around here. Yep. I'm still working on Bluenose and am about to start the rigging when it is less hellishly hot in my condo... and once I have finally figured out whether or not I am going to commit to making the sails, or rig it with bare spars. I'm really inclined towards the latter, but it feels like cheating. I also picked up a paper model to use as a template for a larger project (CGS Canada) in more solid media, but I have resolved not to start that before the Bluenose is done. E: I lied. I grabbed a bunch of Starbuck stir sticks at work and have been quietly working on a Mackenzie-style drift boat at work on my coffee breaks:  Starbucks stir sticks are not an ideal model boat building material. Fearless fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Aug 30, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 05:32
|
|
|
Immolat1on posted:I'm much more interested in motorsports than doing any more American muscle cars, so these are great recommendations, thank you. You’re welcome! If motorsports are more your thing (I’m in the same boat), you should also check out Beemax and Ebbro.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 17:17
|
|
|
I broke my rib while sleeping (wtf?!), so I finally have some time to paint figures. What is a good dark shade to use for shadows on light coloured clothing? I used a sepia wash but that turned out a bit too orangy. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 17:37
|
|
|
That looks fine TBH, but if you really want to then you can hilight back up using whatever the base colour was and adding bits of white for every layer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2019 05:51
|
|
|
I bought some kits for the potential egg scale or commie armor group build, whichever it ends up being. Meng definitely decided to embrace the "no scale" aspect of this line. That's a Tiger I hull upper left, Tiger 2 upper right, T-34 lower left, and KV-2 lower right. For comparison, the Sherman in the same line is in the middle, and uhhhhh
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2019 16:58
|
|
|
It's just a little Sherman, it hasn't finished its way through Georgia yet. Then it'll be full sized.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2019 18:49
|
|
|
https://spraygunner.com/ Is having a labor day sale: 20% off of a new airbrush over $100. Promo code is: LABORBRUSH Depending on state taxes, you could get a Mr Hobby PS770 for $180. The PS289 (my airbrush) is also only $84. They also carry Badger and H&S, if Iwata-style airbrushes arent your thing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 08:34
|
|
|
Fantastic timing, I've been wanting to pick up a fancier airbrush for a while now. I've been using Badger brushes since I started. What's the primary difference between that and an Iwataesque brush, and if money was not an object, would you pick the PS770 over an Infinity 2 for detail work?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 17:08
|
|
|
From what I've seen, the Japanese and German airbrushes tend to have higher quality control than Badger. The PS770 is pretty much an iwata custom micron. I think at that point it comes down to preference though, since the infinity is also very well regarded. I'd probably lean towards the PS770 since I doubt I'd use the Infinity's additional needle and nozzle sizes. This also depends on the type of paint you're using. A friend picked up a PS770 and he ended up switching from Vallejo to Tamiya because he felt that the former was too frustrating to spray with a .18mm nozzle. If you want a cheaper detail brush, the PS270 is also a good pick. It's a .2mm airbrush, but it still has some other high end features like a mac valve, 3 hole air cap diffuser thing, and a needle stop. Symetrique fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Sep 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 17:35
|
|
|
How to spend a Sunday morning: coffee and decals. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 19:58
|
|
|
Just don't accidentally dip your decals in the coffee
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 20:15
|
|
|
I believe that's called "weathering".
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 20:37
|
|
|
I really need to do an F-16 at some point. No idea why I haven't ever done it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 22:54
|
|
|
Jonny Nox posted:Just don't accidentally dip your decals in the coffee The other night I was putting decals on a Hasegawa Datsun 240Z and I was also drinking a cup of water. I learned a lesson that night, don't keep your drinking water cup next to your decal dunking cup. Especially when you put a tiny amount of dish soap in the decal water.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2019 23:02
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:I really need to do an F-16 at some point. No idea why I haven't ever done it. This is the 1/72 Tamiya kit with full equipment. It's a fantastic kit. Being my first plane kit, I probably should have picked something that I wouldn't feel so bad about not being a perfect build, but I love the F-16. I'll probably pick up a couple more copies of this kit so I can build all 3 versions in the instructions.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 02:37
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:The other night I was putting decals on a Hasegawa Datsun 240Z and I was also drinking a cup of water. I learned a lesson that night, don't keep your drinking water cup next to your decal dunking cup. Especially when you put a tiny amount of dish soap in the decal water. Dish soap is nothing compared to dirty paint water.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 12:28
|
|
|
Anarcho-Commissar posted:Dish soap is nothing compared to dirty paint water. Nah, the real danger is drinking lovely cold coffee so you don't notice the difference until a few gulps in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 21:47
|
|
|
To be fair paint water is a step up from American coffee.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 22:22
|
|
|
Preorders for the Tamiya P-38 are up! https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10636042 Price seems considerably lower, compared to the $80 US msrp.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 02:21
|
|
|
Big Willy Style posted:To be fair paint water is a step up from American coffee. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 11:33
|
|
|
Got the engine and transmission into my tank. You can't really see much of it through the hatches, so I'm not too torn up about the level of detail not being as good as G43's T-34.   And here's the guy that's going to go into the hatch: 
Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 22:00
|
|
|
he looks like if you took a photo as someone was midway through the action of dabbing
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 07:50
|
|
|
He's petting an invisible goat
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 07:02
|
|
|
From the French riots this year
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 10:22
|
|
|
After a couple of months off, I decided to take a crack at rebuilding the chassis for the Jinty I tried in the winter, this is how far I've got: Last time I got a bit further, but being a model that needs to move, there was an issue with the drivetrain that required it to be scrapped and started over. This is where I got to, last time:  You'll notice that i've added the sand boxes onto the new chassis (I lost the parts from the old one), and this time I'm only using the rear of the gearbox instead of both bearings, hopefully it will mitigate the mechanical issues last time. Anyway, this is the prototype and hopefully what it'll look like when it's done: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 22:35
|
|
|
I've finally discovered the life hack for not being able to paint eyes. Sadly it covers up all the face work that I was really proud of, but the helmet took off a ton it as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 22:59
|
|
|
I'm a little teapot, short and stout
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 23:04
|
|
|
Carth Dookie posted:I'm a little teapot, short and stout Here is my handle, and here's where I pour boiling water on fascists, comrade.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 00:38
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:I've finally discovered the life hack for not being able to paint eyes. Sadly it covers up all the face work that I was really proud of, but the helmet took off a ton it as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 12:25
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:The way I do eyes is I do the whole eye black and then put white just into the corners. It's usually good enough. That’s heaps easier than what I used to do with my warhammer minis where I’d go for white then add a black dot which wasn’t too bad if you where careful with how you loaded the brush. I’ve got a couple of 1/35 scale guys to paint up at some point but I know I’ll need some new flesh paints cause what I have has dried out pretty well over the last few years.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 12:34
|
|
|
I'd do that with a sharpened toothpick, first a white line then a black dot. Looked okay, but not fantastic. On a lot of models the eyes would be so small that I only had room for white.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 13:15
|
|
|
I paint the eyes white then use a micron pen.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 13:19
|
|
|
I usually don't bother with painting the white of eyes, just a dark wash. If you view a 1/35 figure from 10cm the real life distance is 3,5m where the whites of eyes almost isnt visible anyway.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 13:29
|
|
|
Molentik posted:I usually don't bother with painting the white of eyes, just a dark wash. If you view a 1/35 figure from 10cm the real life distance is 3,5m where the whites of eyes almost isnt visible anyway. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 15:13
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:first a white line Also, don't use pure white, use off-white or bone.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 17:08
|
|
|
Black across the whole eye, then two dots either side has always done me fine, when eyes are expected. That said, I agree that a dark wash into the eye sockets and some effective lighting/etc. Has less risk of looking cartoonish
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 19:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 11:43 |
|
|
81-717 update: Conductor's cabin interior! The kit came with exactly 0 parts for it, so I had to scratchbuild the entire thing. Of course, being me, I promptly decided to go way overboard on the details: As much as the super-zoomed in photo highlights every imperfection, I am super chuffed about how this turned out. Unfortunately it seems every single wagon out there was constructed with a different style of cabin and finding a good reference for the most "archetypal" one is hard, so a lot of it is kinda up to best guess and preference. Here's one of the reference photos I used:  And a question: How do y'all deal with very tiny text that still needs to be (mostly) legible? I need to add a piece of writing to the front where the latters are 1.5mm tall, and I suspect a common home printer is not going to be able to print well at that size. Are there like special services that offer that kinda thing or is there some other solution I'm not thinking of?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2019 21:21
|
|
