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MustardFacial posted:Better source out a safe spot in your house where you can put the thing without being subjected to toxic fumes. Also get some nitrile gloves, a gas mask, an ultrasonic bath, a UV curing oven, and some safety glasses. Honestly I thought that, too, but once I got consistently good prints coming from the machine, it's practically nothing. Certainly no more hassle than removing PLA supports. It's a lot of waiting around.
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Sep 7, 2019 00:29
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Golluk posted:The room my printers are in is usually 45-55% (basement) I start to notice an effect after a 2-3 days if left out. My filament boxes are usually in the mid 20's, and I refresh the desiccant once they go over 35. Under 30% would be my recommendation. I've also had brand new filament behave much better after drying it myself. What effects do you see?
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Sep 7, 2019 00:42
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Hrm, after checking the leveling, it somehow got massively out of level. Trying again.
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Sep 7, 2019 01:15
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Thermopyle posted:What effects do you see? far more stringing, and some areas of under extrusion (because of the stringing).
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Sep 7, 2019 02:19
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MustardFacial posted:Better source out a safe spot in your house where you can put the thing without being subjected to toxic fumes. Also get some nitrile gloves, a gas mask, an ultrasonic bath, a UV curing oven, and some safety glasses. Ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning resin prints isn't needed. Agitation then passive soak in isopropyl alcohol, yes. Even the expensive part washer specifically for post processing resin prints is really a scaled up lab stirrer. I've used ultrasonic cleaning but never for post processing resin prints, what would the benefit even be?
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Sep 7, 2019 08:53
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Meshmixer makes some pretty Mangrove level forestry on the base of my prints, gets a little shiny in spots even after a cure. Getting into the nooks and crannies like that could be a benefit? Not necessary, just beneficial.
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Sep 7, 2019 20:15
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So my fan seems to not turn on automatically, I have to manually turn them on in Octopi. In cura cooling is enabled and 100%.
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Sep 8, 2019 00:34
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Well, I'm admitting defeat and returning the Duplicator 7 sold by Monoprice. Guess I'll just save up until I can afford a Formlabs resin printer and keep playing with the FDM printers I have until then.
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Sep 8, 2019 02:16
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Well, I'm admitting defeat and returning the Duplicator 7 sold by Monoprice. Is there some reason you can't get an anycubic photon or ePax x1? From everything I've read either is superior to the d7, and they're both in a similar price range.
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Sep 8, 2019 02:44
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The Eyes Have It posted:Ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning resin prints isn't needed. Agitation then passive soak in isopropyl alcohol, yes. Even the expensive part washer specifically for post processing resin prints is really a scaled up lab stirrer. Free explosions when the alcohol fumes catch a spark from the electronics You can just use Simple Green on most resins
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Sep 8, 2019 04:29
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I think I finally fixed my clogging issue which seems to happen due to bad luck, I dunno; but now I am concerned that during my current print job the hotend suddenly and randomly moves kinda slowly and then speeds back up to a normal smooth speed.
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Sep 8, 2019 05:00
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Mikey Purp posted:Is there some reason you can't get an anycubic photon or ePax x1? From everything I've read either is superior to the d7, and they're both in a similar price range. The Monoprice version was $280, not $500.
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Sep 8, 2019 07:12
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The Monoprice version was $280, not $500. It seems like prices are changing rapidly, the Anycubic Photon is $299 on amazon with an additional $30 off coupon on the page to click on: https://smile.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07D6H83VS
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Sep 8, 2019 08:20
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Got a bit of a strange on. I'm switching a nozzle, but i can't screw the new one in. (Or the old one). Something seems to be stopping it turning. It could be some gunk in there that is blocking the thread. I've tried cleaning it out, but I'm a bit stuck.
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Sep 8, 2019 08:46
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Grey Hunter posted:Got a bit of a strange on. I'm switching a nozzle, but i can't screw the new one in. (Or the old one). Something seems to be stopping it turning. Can’t you just look inside? Heat it up. Run a dental pick along the threads. Dental mirror actually helps too.
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Sep 8, 2019 08:52
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Huh, I guess there is such a thing has bad PLA. Ordered a grey and a white roll of Hatchbox PLA. White prints no problem. Grey just wont extrude, adhere or otherwise behave. I'm thinking somethings clogged, etc and clean the hotend, re-level the bed, etc etc. No joy. Plug the remainder of the white back in and it's perfect. At least it was from Amazon, so it's an easy return, but I kinda wanted those molds done this weekend.
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Sep 8, 2019 09:09
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Rexxed posted:It seems like prices are changing rapidly, the Anycubic Photon is $299 on amazon with an additional $30 off coupon on the page to click on: Am I reading that right and the Photon has an on-board slicer?
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Sep 8, 2019 13:12
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It has a slicer on the USB drive but Chitubox is free and better.
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Sep 8, 2019 13:18
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Strong second on that - ChiTu Box is great and has a good built in profile for the Photon. I just increased my base layer times to 100 seconds and normals to 10 seconds to be safe for my own neurotic reasons E: do your own supports on top of the auto ones.
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Sep 8, 2019 17:57
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The Photon isn't without its quirks, but the community support for it is absolutely amazing and I've been getting some fantastic prints out of it. I ran this last night, it's part of the "cortical stack" prop from Altered Carbon. I could never quite pull this print off to my satisfaction on my FDM machines. This one will do quite nicely though.  The stuff that looks like big layer lines is printed detail, part of the model. The actual small layer lines are visible in the picture near the center of the print, but you *really* have to be looking to see them when you're holding the thing. It's only about 50mm square overall.
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Sep 8, 2019 18:14
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I am really not understanding why my Longer keeps clogging EVERY single time now. e: Or rather, more specifically, its doing a LOT of skipping; but seems to still be extruding? Right now I've tried bumping the temperature to 215 and that seems to have gradually fixed it for this current print.
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Sep 9, 2019 01:42
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I got an Ender 3 from woot a few weeks ago and finally got around to assembling and playing with it. I've had a lot of fun so far but I'm running into issues with the bed constantly. I've upgraded it to borosilicate glass which fixed the warping on the original bed, but now with the added glass weight it has a slight wobble which I think is responsible for some curling I'm getting on my prints. I've got some stiffer bed springs in the mail, so while I'm installing those hoped I can tighten the wheels to the track better. Anyone have any other tips or things I should watch out for on the Ender 3?
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Sep 9, 2019 16:06
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SpartanIvy posted:I got an Ender 3 from woot a few weeks ago and finally got around to assembling and playing with it. Curling, like at the bottom? That just sounds like adhesion. What are you doing to make prints stick to the glass?
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Sep 9, 2019 16:16
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Yeah, it curls off the glass but only on the sides on the axis it wobbles. I initially thought it was an adhesion problem but my glass is clean and it only loses adhesion on the left and right side, not front or back of the print. I'll post some pictures when I get home. I did a big tool tray print overnight and it's really noticeable on it.
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Sep 9, 2019 16:21
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I guess I’m not following what you mean by “wobbles” because I’ve been running glass on a lovely i3 clone for years and weight has never been an issue. Glass really needs a surface prep to keep prints stuck, especially large prints. Blue painters tape, Aquanet, or glue sticks all work cheap.
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Sep 9, 2019 16:28
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The wheels on the bed assembly don't hold it perfectly on the track. If you push on either side of it, the entire bed will deflect in that direction. I'd read that ideally, you don't need a surface other than glass to print on, but I also saw people talk about using glue sticks and stuff. I would like not to have to deal with that mess but if it's the only way then so be it I guess.
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Sep 9, 2019 16:40
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SpartanIvy posted:The wheels on the bed assembly don't hold it perfectly on the track. If you push on either side of it, the entire bed will deflect in that direction. shouldnt one of the gantry wheels be adjustable so it can better clamp onto the rail? Have you looked to see? One of the wheels should have a bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Sep 9, 2019 |
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Sep 9, 2019 16:43
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I have not checked yet but I assume there's a way to adjust it. I only recognized this issue last night.
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Sep 9, 2019 16:46
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SpartanIvy posted:The wheels on the bed assembly don't hold it perfectly on the track. If you push on either side of it, the entire bed will deflect in that direction. One of the wheels uses an eccentric nut so that turning it will bring that wheel closer or further from the rail. That allows you adjust the way it rides to have more or less resistance. Yours is way too loose if it wobbles. Google will lead you to a number of videos that show how to adjust it.
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Sep 9, 2019 16:46
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SpartanIvy posted:The wheels on the bed assembly don't hold it perfectly on the track. If you push on either side of it, the entire bed will deflect in that direction. I've never been able to get good adhesion with untreated glass. The people that do have some kind of voodoo going on that I want no part of. I've been running the same can of Aquanet I got when I first started printing on glass almost 4 years ago, so it's been a well-spent $4. Edit: That's not exactly true. Printing PETG on bare glass I got such good adhesion I chipped it pulling a print off.
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Sep 9, 2019 16:56
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Do you have to remove the glass to clean it off every print? And thus relevel? I hate leveling, but that probably just means I'll buy an autoleveler if I have to go that route.
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Sep 9, 2019 17:06
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I only take it off when I start to have adhesion issues that can't be resolved with a quick refresher spritz. I throw it in the dishwasher and pop it back on. A quick leveling check with my standard pattern, maybe an adjustment here and there, and back off to the races.
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Sep 9, 2019 17:09
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AlexDeGruven posted:I've never been able to get good adhesion with untreated glass. The people that do have some kind of voodoo going on that I want no part of. Yeah, you gotta protect the glass from PET. That poo poo ADHERES. Same with PET on PEI. Glue stick makes all the difference. I only remove the glass of I have a print that won't release. Into the freezer for a few and the print usually falls off. Otherwise, it stays put and gets cleaned by hand.
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Sep 9, 2019 17:10
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I rarely ever take the glass bed off my Rostock... I clean it in place using window cleaner and paper towels and then put a new coat of glue or hairspray down. If I do take it off, I have some witness marks on the edges so I can put it back in exactly the same position it came off, thereby not messing up the calibration. Been doing it that way for 6 years now.
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Sep 9, 2019 17:13
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SpartanIvy posted:I got an Ender 3 from woot a few weeks ago and finally got around to assembling and playing with it. I had this issue with my Ender 3 as well. The two wheels on the right side (your right) of the gantry have eccentric nuts on them. one of the wrenches that came with the printer will be the size of the nuts. Tighten it just enough so it doesn't wobble. Have you made sure your bed is not skewed as well? Most people don't bother checking this because you can just level it out with the screws but lower the bed all the way to the bottom (tighten the screws) and then put the nozzle near the bed and run it across it. Make sure one side isn't naturally higher than the other. Also do this front and back. My right side was like 6mm higher than the left and I had to take the entire gantry apart and re-center all of the wheels.
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Sep 9, 2019 17:32
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Mine is definitely skewed at least a little. I noticed that last night too. After leveling, one side had the springs way more compressed than the other side, and the screws are visibly more exposed. E: I went home for lunch and I took a quick look at my box from last night and it's just the corners that really popped up so I guess it probably is an adhesion issue after all. I'm still going to fix everything else regardless, but I'll also try my next print with and without the glue stick to see if it helps. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Sep 9, 2019 |
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Sep 9, 2019 19:12
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If you don't want a mess, just slap PEI or buildtak on top of the glass. PEI is great. Just hit it with a green scotch bright pad every couple dozen prints. Little bit of acetone if you're really having trouble.
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Sep 9, 2019 19:30
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Any Canadians looking for a Prusa powder coat sheet, they are now in stock at Voxel Factory.
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Sep 9, 2019 19:47
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MustardFacial posted:Have you made sure your bed is not skewed as well? Most people don't bother checking this because you can just level it out with the screws but lower the bed all the way to the bottom (tighten the screws) and then put the nozzle near the bed and run it across it. Make sure one side isn't naturally higher than the other. Also do this front and back. My right side was like 6mm higher than the left and I had to take the entire gantry apart and re-center all of the wheels. If you can just level it out, what difference does it make?
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Sep 9, 2019 19:50
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TKIY posted:Any Canadians looking for a Prusa powder coat sheet, they are now in stock at Voxel Factory. Dang, I just got one direct from prusa, could have saved a few bucks on duty
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Sep 9, 2019 19:52
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