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Thermopyle posted:If you can just level it out, what difference does it make? Making sure the frame axis are all perpendicular to each other is referred to as tramming. It can distort the model if not done. If you were to tilt both Z supports to the right by 5mm, you can still get the X axis parallel to the bed, but any model you print will also be tilted to the right, since the entire X axis is moving further to the right of the bed as it follows the path of the Z axis up. If I recall Thomas does a good explanation with diagrams here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA ImplicitAssembler posted:Huh, I guess there is such a thing has bad PLA. Ordered a grey and a white roll of Hatchbox PLA. White prints no problem. Grey just wont extrude, adhere or otherwise behave. The worst I've had was some stuff that was sold cheap because it didn't meet specs. Extra brittle, and would only just hold together with a good filament path. But would snap in multiple places if left for a few hours the least bit bent. Also pretty stringy. The other issue I ran into was esun PLA+, it had a couple chunks of... burnt? pellet embedded in the filament, that wouldn't melt, so just a sudden jam when it hit the hot end. Golluk fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Sep 9, 2019 |
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Sep 9, 2019 20:59
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Finally got around to replacing the hot end on my Prusa. This jam sure did a hell of a lot of damage.
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Sep 10, 2019 03:01
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A friend who may or may not be totally serious asked me to make a BoM and name my price if I print all the necessary printed parts for a DIY printer. After a little poking around, seems like the reprap project/wiki is completely stagnant. Voron nerds are really militant about only using ABS (if I'm doing this at all I'm doing it in PLA with maybe some PETG around the warm bits). The Deltesian is definitely too testy for a neophyte. Are there any suitable projects? Preferably using aluminum extrusions because I know he's got the tools to cut them. I mean, I'm already planning to just give him a list of decent Creality/Monoprice/Anycubic machines. At this point I'm just curious.
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Sep 10, 2019 05:10
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There's a series here about DIYing an i3 clone. It looks like a massive pain in the rear end: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVWLpvekby0 Personally I think he sounds like a dick, I would quote him $1000, order a Prusa kit, assemble it for him and keep the change. AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Sep 10, 2019 |
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Sep 10, 2019 06:56
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cephalopods posted:A friend who may or may not be totally serious asked me to make a BoM and name my price if I print all the necessary printed parts for a DIY printer. I don't think any DIY printer will end up cheaper than a commercial one (maybe Tom's but the Ender 3 is almost always $180 or less somewhere these days so even that is questionable) but there's also the Hypercube which has a full build log on youtube: https://reprap.org/wiki/HyperCube
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Sep 10, 2019 07:11
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Anycubic's Kossel is ridiculously cheap right now. Anyone have experience with it? https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-kossel-3d-printer
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Sep 10, 2019 07:16
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cephalopods posted:A friend who may or may not be totally serious asked me to make a BoM and name my price if I print all the necessary printed parts for a DIY printer. I’d get that money up front.
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Sep 10, 2019 07:55
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AgentCow007 posted:There's a series here about DIYing an i3 clone. It looks like a massive pain in the rear end: I'd do this
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Sep 10, 2019 08:19
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Hmm. Zortrax is announcing some new product September 23. Anyone know what it is, or are they playing their cards super close?
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Sep 10, 2019 09:38
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The Eyes Have It posted:Hmm. Zortrax is announcing some new product September 23. Anyone know what it is, or are they playing their cards super close? I've only seen this video, but I'm guessing some kind of temperature controlled closed case printer, maybe with air filtering? 15 Sensors! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c47zPCyqZHQ
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Sep 10, 2019 10:13
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TKIY posted:Any Canadians looking for a Prusa powder coat sheet, they are now in stock at Voxel Factory. Speaking of the Prusa sheets. The 3.80 firmware came out the other day and you can have profiles for different sheets. You can save your Z settings for whatever sheet and just switch quickly between them.
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Sep 10, 2019 12:23
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cephalopods posted:A friend who may or may not be totally serious asked me to make a BoM and name my price if I print all the necessary printed parts for a DIY printer. Voron insists on ABS because PLA won’t survive chamber temps and is too brittle for the parts that need flex. PETG will sag over time. ABS isn’t as hard as the internet has told you, especially eSun ABS+. I printed a very nice, very functional Voron2 with a garbage bag enclosure. That said, I’d stay away from the Voron2 for a newbie, but the 1.6 is still a very nice DIY printer and under active dev at closer to $600. You don’t go DIY to save money these days. You can’t source down to a price the way a Creality can.
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Sep 10, 2019 15:03
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If you want corexy I might suggest this: https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/mamorubot-sx-4-core-xy-3d-printer?variant=13628992651299 Their customer support had been amazing.
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Sep 10, 2019 15:14
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Has anyone here used the Wham Bam magnetic print surface? (https://whambamsystems.com/) Was considering it for my Rostock Max....
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Sep 10, 2019 15:32
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Thanks all. For some reason I'd thought Tom's Mk2-clone series was abandoned. I'll show my dude that 17-hour youtube playlist and remind him that anything he makes will be flakier than an Ender 3 or whatever
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Sep 10, 2019 16:23
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cephalopods posted:Thanks all. For some reason I'd thought Tom's Mk2-clone series was abandoned. I did Tom's clone build, and I also had a coworker asking about getting a 3D printer recently. I told him the creality/wanhao suggestions etc. Then I told him about the clone build and how good it is for understanding the machine to nuts and bolts. A hard part of recommending Tom's guide is that it has a lot of rough edges that noobs will blunder through without knowing any better. They might purchase a mk42 clone bed without realizing it ties them to using hacked prusa firmware to detect the conductive pads on the bed, instead of stock marlin on a normal aluminum plate. The 5mm threaded rods for the Y axis are horrible. Using a standard mk8 hobbed gear needs a special extruder body with the feed path shifted 1mm away from the motor shaft, rather than the stock one from prusa. Also Tom's extruder bearing assembly kinda sucks compared to the real one with a 5mm shaft holding the bearing. All small niggles that it's hard to explain to someone taking on the project for the first time with no knowledge of 3d printers  e: last thing my coworker said to me was "hey you seen this?" and he was watching a youtube video of a mk3 clone build so I'll let him figure it out
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Sep 10, 2019 16:33
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Rexxed posted:I've only seen this video, but I'm guessing some kind of temperature controlled closed case printer, maybe with air filtering? 15 Sensors! Hah, I had assumed that video was just some totally unrelated ultra generic product spot. If it's supposed to be the "teaser" for whatever's coming then hoo boy.
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Sep 10, 2019 17:33
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Ordered this on Sunday. Showed up today :0 Quickly made up a vent tube. Its either this or it goes in the washer/dryer closet but that does have its own extraction fan. On the other hand I cannot imagine that the vibration from the washer and dryer will do it any favors so I’ll try out this option first
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Sep 11, 2019 08:16
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What's everyone's favorites for ABS or ABS+ and where do you get them?
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Sep 11, 2019 11:42
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Parts Kit posted:What's everyone's favorites for ABS or ABS+ and where do you get them? Anyone can stick a “+” on the end of ABS. It doesn’t mean anything official. That said, eSun ABS+ happens to be very easy to print with reduced shrinkage and curling. It’s on Amazon, unless you want more than 6 rolls, then IntServo is the actual distributor. Just don’t get the red.
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Sep 11, 2019 12:33
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Synthbuttrange posted:Ordered this on Sunday. Showed up today :0 Is that the S or the regular one? Seems like it does have some nice improvements but I'm not sure it's worth the extra $100 or so.
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Sep 11, 2019 13:41
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 Yay test print! Yeah its the Photon S. I actually closed the window because it was getting really cold and windy but the charcoal ventilation filters did their job and it didn’t smell any worse! The stinkiest bit was the cleaning alcohol, like someone spilled a bunch of spirits. One of the updates did get backported to the Photon, the antialiasing.
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Sep 11, 2019 14:39
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The green Anycubic resin seems pretty inoffensive, I've been running it in a room that doesn't have super great ventilation and it hasn't bothered me any. Their gray, however, smells very strongly of ozone and death and is definitely not my most favorite thing. I've got some Elegoo gray and some Hero blue on the way, both of those are supposed to be fairly low odor.
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Sep 11, 2019 14:59
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Acid Reflux posted:The green Anycubic resin seems pretty inoffensive, I've been running it in a room that doesn't have super great ventilation and it hasn't bothered me any. Their gray, however, smells very strongly of ozone and death and is definitely not my most favorite thing. I've got some Elegoo gray and some Hero blue on the way, both of those are supposed to be fairly low odor. the green that came with my Photon smells like poo poo. It gave me a headache, so I printed a carbon filter mod and will get some activated charcoal from the pet store today.
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Sep 11, 2019 16:00
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It's genuinely interesting how different people seem to react to the stuff. That gray made my eyes water almost as soon as I opened the bottle, but I can easily tolerate being within a few feet of the printer while it's running with the green in it. We're all probably going to end up with toenail cancer or something after it's finally revealed that the resins are made primarily of radiation and children's souls.
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Sep 11, 2019 17:24
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I'm going to poo poo up the thread asking for some help diagnosing an error on my Ender 3. I'm trying to print a mask. The file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3679538 Pictures of my 30% test print of the mask: https://imgur.com/a/h0Hb4Zm  Across two prints with the same settings, I got identical striations in the print, including basically all the same errors. If it were simply the cause of vibrations from an unstable table, people walking through the room, etc., I'd expect them to both have striations, but not nearly identical ones. Given that they're so similar, I'm thinking this is some sort of mechanical error, where the belts/z-axis thread are causing errors by behaving poorly at exactly the same coordinates each print. Furthermore, when I printed this at a larger scale (80%), it also had striations, but they don't match in exactly the same spots. It also didn't have that little hole above the larger (intentional) hole in picture #2. A. Is that a fair assessment, or is something else at play? B. If that is indeed the culprit, how do I track down the source of the error and fix it?
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Sep 11, 2019 20:14
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What slicer are you using?
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Sep 11, 2019 20:25
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mewse posted:What slicer are you using? Cura
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Sep 12, 2019 12:18
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So resin stinks like rotten assholes but man it makes nice prints.
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Sep 12, 2019 14:07
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If I got a CR-10 what upgrades would I want/need to print nylon? Full metal hot end? Is there a best choice for that? Anything else? I guess I would want a spool each of nylon, PLA, and maybe ABS, and a dry box even though I live in dry as hell Colorado. Elmer’s glue stick for bed preparation, any other auxiliary tools? Exacto knife?
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Sep 12, 2019 15:30
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Ordered the Photon on Amazon. Will give my Monoprice mini 2.0 to some friends that want to try printing.NewFatMike posted:The Anycubic Photon works great out of the box with ChiTu Box DLP settings. It truly was contamination. And that pausing a print to check on it has a fair chance of completely loving it. Meshmixer and ChiTu Box. Got it. Any recommendations on finishing? Clean print with alcohol -> UV lamp -> snip supports and sand? Is the UV lamp step a necessity? Also, anyone tried a more flexible resin? Something rubbery, like Keshi or old MUSCLE figures?
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Sep 12, 2019 18:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:If I got a CR-10 what upgrades would I want/need to print nylon? Full metal hot end? Is there a best choice for that? Anything else? I guess I would want a spool each of nylon, PLA, and maybe ABS, and a dry box even though I live in dry as hell Colorado. Elmer’s glue stick for bed preparation, any other auxiliary tools? Exacto knife? I've only had one printer and I've only had it for a few months, and this advice isn't exactly particular to what you're asking since I haven't printed nylon yet, but your post prompted me to think about this... So far I've found that I haven't needed 90% of the things people told me you've just got to have or upgrades you've just got to do. Like, everywhere I read about needing a dry box and I haven't had the need for one yet. People just like to get in to their hobby. That's cool and fine, but if you're just trying to be practical...I'd just buy the printer and try to do the things you want. If you can't do them then do the upgrades or whatever you need to do.
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Sep 12, 2019 18:13
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22 Eargesplitten posted:If I got a CR-10 what upgrades would I want/need to print nylon? Full metal hot end? Is there a best choice for that? Anything else? I guess I would want a spool each of nylon, PLA, and maybe ABS, and a dry box even though I live in dry as hell Colorado. Elmer’s glue stick for bed preparation, any other auxiliary tools? Exacto knife? I'd check this out for a general guide on printing Nylon: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-with-nylon You'll probably want an all-metal hotend if you're going to print a lot of nylon due to the PTFE liner not liking high temps. I got a micro-swiss one for my Maker Select but I'd consider a trianglelabs knock-off from aliexpress if you're looking to save some money. I got a trianglelabs bondtech-like extruder for my Ender 3 and while I've only had it for three months it works well so far. I can't really vouch for their whole product line but they seem to clone most open source stuff. If you're looking to make money selling your product then the price difference won't be much of a difference and then maybe micro-swiss or e3d are reasonable. Nylon filaments are expensive so do a little research: https://taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html https://taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html Even in dry Colorado you might need to bake your nylon before printing because general human comfort with air humidity and the plastic absorbing water aren't exactly the same thing. I got a $40 food dehydrator to use on my filament but it's humid here and I use it on almost everything if I'm having difficulty printing, and I keep my filament in one gallon zip-lock bags with desiccant. You could probably just use a regular oven as long as it's got a low setting. I don't know if you really need to buy ABS unless you have some specific prints in mind. I'd get some cheap PLA to prototype with for sure since printing in Nylon like Alloy 910 is so much more expensive. I've used eSun's carbon fiber filled nylon and that prints decently, too, but the finished product is different than anything else I've printed and has a rough texture almost like paper or cardboard. Since I gather you're making something for outdoor use then ABS might be a good test material, and most folks in the thread that regularly print it like eSun's ABS+ because it's easier to print without an enclosure and lots of warping. edit: Taulman has 1lb rolls of most of its filaments in the $35-60 range compared with $15-20 for a 2lbs/1kg roll of PLA for example. eSun ABS+ is about $25/kg on amazon whereas I've gotten cheap $12 ABS before, but I only print small things because they warp like crazy. I'd rather get the more expensive stuff that won't waste my time. For PVA glue I've been using the amazon basics glue sticks since a big box of their wide ones is cheap. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Sep 12, 2019 |
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Sep 12, 2019 18:49
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Failson posted:Ordered the Photon on Amazon. Will give my Monoprice mini 2.0 to some friends that want to try printing. Snip supports while resin is still slightly pliable, clean with alcohol bath 30-60 minutes. UV exposure, lamp or sunlight. UV exposure to harden / finish curing is necessary.
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Sep 12, 2019 19:31
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Use Taulmans Alloy910 if you want to print nylon. It's easy to print, doesn't warp much and is moderately tolerant of humidity (meaning you can leave it out for a few days). I got away with having it outside for months, when my printer was at my wifes pottery studio, as the kilns were firing almost every night, leaving everything hot and dry. I print at 255C, on a 40C glass bed with gluestick. You can print on a cold bed, I just like to bump it a little to activate the glue.
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Sep 12, 2019 19:33
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I may finally get around to trying out Nylon. Seems the quotes went through, and I'll be creating and printing a positioning tool for a customer next week. Roughly ~900 cad for design and initial part. ~150 for additional ones. Though ABS should be sufficient. I wish I had more luck with photogrametry, it would really simplify what I'm trying to create. A plate which sits on/in some features of a part, with a rectangular hole to place a sticker (so it's consistant).
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Sep 12, 2019 21:13
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Wierd. It could be different batches of uv resin smell different, or because I've been working in chemical using areas a lot, but this doesnt smell much. It could be that it's also just leaving winter here. It smells like someone's burning a tire several streets away. Very faint. As for UV curing I've found that an old reptile uv light bulb works just fine for hardening the resin.
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Sep 13, 2019 01:02
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See if you can find the rare unopened spool of Taulman Nylon 230 (Similar to Alloy 910, but even easier to print, not sure why they stopped making it).
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Sep 13, 2019 01:28
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biracial bear for uncut posted:See if you can find the rare unopened spool of Taulman Nylon 230 (Similar to Alloy 910, but even easier to print, not sure why they stopped making it). It's actually still on their buy direct order page. It's $22/lb but shipping is another $13.50 for me. It's still cheaper than Alloy 910, though! I still have a ton of 910, myself because I've mostly made small parts with mine. The modified extruder housing for my Maker Select that tightens up the outlet tube so you can print flexibles with slightly less trouble worked to make the tires on my OpenRC F1 car, although it wasn't super consistent. I think Eargesplitten is doing some bigger parts for outdoor use so maybe prototype in PLA, try it with ABS+, make a final in nylon? The shrinkage percentage differences might be frustrating, though.
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Sep 13, 2019 02:16
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Failson posted:Ordered the Photon on Amazon. Will give my Monoprice mini 2.0 to some friends that want to try printing. What Jassi said - meshmixer supports come off really nicely after the bath before the cure.
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Sep 13, 2019 02:28
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