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Terry van Feleday posted:81-717 update: Conductor's cabin interior! The kit came with exactly 0 parts for it, so I had to scratchbuild the entire thing. Of course, being me, I promptly decided to go way overboard on the details: Looking awesome. For the text, can you get access to a laser printer? I printed some decals on one at my local library and it's way better than my own inkjet. (Plus the ink is waterproof which is a lot easier to deal with.)
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Sep 11, 2019 21:25
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There's lots of places that do custom water-slide decals and generally have access to commercial printers and can do white ink and such. Also god drat I love the upholstery on that chair.
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Sep 12, 2019 02:24
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What is the recommended PSI for airbrushing Vallejo Primer or "Air" line? I've seen various opinions and I can't seem to find the one I like. Also Vallejo say that their primer is ready to be airbrushed but in my experience you better thin in down (like 50/50) otherwise it just clogs my 0.3 airbrush. Am I doing something wrong?
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Sep 12, 2019 13:29
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I spray Vallejo as is through a .38 mm nozzle at around 15-20 psi with no issues.
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Sep 12, 2019 14:12
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I primarily use Vallejo stuff and I usually spray at around 30 to 35 PSI, but I also live in a swamp and don't have to worry about paint drying in flight until January or so. I do 1:3 or 1:4 flow improver to paint, depending on what I'm working with, plus glaze medium when applicable. Their primer definitely does need to be thinned. Stynylrez comes the closest I've seen to being usable right out of the bottle, but I'll still eventually get blockages unless I'm really scrupulous about wiping off the needle.
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Sep 12, 2019 15:33
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I can usually get Synylrez to spray fine right out of the bottle at about 20 PSI if I work quick and deliberate and don't take too many long breaks. Though, I may have mixed some thinner in the bottle a time or two from emptying an already-thinned paint cup back into the bottle so your mileage may vary.
Amp fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Sep 12, 2019 |
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Sep 12, 2019 15:39
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PSI on any paint shouldn't really matter, assuming the paint is properly thinned. Anything can be shot down to about 5psi, below which the airflow is too low for smooth paint delivery (although this can be great for spatter effects). Higher PSI obviously delivers more paint, but the paint atomization is also finer, giving a smoother finish and better edge feathering. Basically shoot at as high a PSI as your comfortable dealing with, and as high as the situation dictates. Primer coats and all over single color applications, 25-30 psi. Basic color fills on medium details, 15-20 psi. Color fills on small details, 10-14 psi. Super-detailing on a micro scale, 6-9 psi. Spatter effects, sub-5 psi.
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Sep 12, 2019 15:45
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:PSI on any paint shouldn't really matter, assuming the paint is properly thinned. Anything can be shot down to about 5psi, below which the airflow is too low for smooth paint delivery (although this can be great for spatter effects). Perfect, thanks!
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Sep 12, 2019 17:20
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lmao someone on reddit tried to decant a spraycan 
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Sep 13, 2019 03:09
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i decant tamiya primer all the loving time with 0 issue, what the gently caress did they do e: quote:When you spray rattle can paint out into a jar (for airbrushing or whatnot) it can be volcanically volatile for a while so you need to let it gas off... I just didn't wait long enough. ah this is why i stick the jar in lukewarm water to speed up the degassing
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Sep 13, 2019 03:12
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Ahahah geez that’s why I don’t have anything I care about in the same room as my airbrush and paints.
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Sep 13, 2019 03:38
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How does decanting normally work? Just spray the whole thing out into a container?
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Sep 13, 2019 04:02
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Arquinsiel posted:How does decanting normally work? Just spray the whole thing out into a container? my setup is hotgluing a straw around the nozzle and then putting a piece of foil over the mouth of the jar held down by a rubber band. insert the straw through the foil and spray until the jar is full and then let it degas over several hours. or through my method of putting it in lukewarm water and slowly lowering a wooden toothpick to increase nucleation sites for the propellant to boil off
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Sep 13, 2019 04:04
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So yeah, pretty much what I was thinking then, with something to prevent it escaping. Cool, good to know if I ever need to do it for some reason.
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Sep 13, 2019 04:08
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Cross post from trad games! I started a new game development thing just to get my Unity legs under myself again, and to make a game I've wanted to play for some time. I'm making a top down semi-realistic tank shooter game set in World War II. I'm crap at drawing sprites, but I do have a bunch of tank models which I'm decent at painting, so I figured maybe if I take pictures of my tank models and touch them up in Photoshop, they could work as sprites? And turns out they can! From:  To:  I have a fairly sizeable collection, but I don't have nearly everything, and I especially don't have many tanks with multiple colour schemes, so I'm looking for help. If anyone here would like to photograph some of their tanks (miniatures or scale models), that'd be great. Just well lit pictures of the hull and turret separately, straight from the top (for vehicles with no turrets just the hull is enough of course) and in as big a resolution as you can get. I'm making the game just for fun and with no intention of selling it, so I can't pay anyone anything, but what I can do is release the game for everyone's free use, and if people want, send them the vectorized tank assets. They can be in any style, from any theater of war.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:23
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Der Shovel posted:... There's tons of great history with this approach. The guns in Doom were modified photos of toys from the local toy store. The plasma rifle was a Rambo tie-in machine gun. The big, complex enemies like the cyber demon were models.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:18
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Der Shovel posted:Cross post from trad games! Cool plan, I actually thought about writing something like this ages ago, but lost interest. Also World of Tanks came out and it was exactly what I wanted anyway. I'll post some shots later if I remember.
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Sep 13, 2019 20:05
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About to start weathering on the Somua S35. Kit went together really well. Painting went good until I reached the brown and suffered some crazy sputtering. The MIG green paint beaded up like water on wax, seems a few batches of MIG paints were known for this. Internet said to mix in some thinner to fix the issue, and it did. Filters and weathering next. It's a fun little kit.
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Sep 14, 2019 00:30
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Der Shovel posted:If anyone here would like to photograph some of their tanks (miniatures or scale models), that'd be great. Just well lit pictures of the hull and turret separately, straight from the top (for vehicles with no turrets just the hull is enough of course) and in as big a resolution as you can get. I'm making the game just for fun and with no intention of selling it, so I can't pay anyone anything, but what I can do is release the game for everyone's free use, and if people want, send them the vectorized tank assets. They can be in any style, from any theater of war. I've got a few things in 15mm scale, is that going to work, or do they need to be proper modelling scale for it to be workable? Also, I had to check it wasn't April  https://www.airfix.com/uk-en/heinkel-he111-h-6-motorhead-bomber-special-1.html
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Sep 14, 2019 12:02
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Another year, another Hi-Mock. Sticking this one in a show tomorrow.     
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Sep 14, 2019 19:31
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Share that with the gunpla thread pleeeeease!
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Sep 14, 2019 19:50
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Midjack posted:Share that with the gunpla thread pleeeeease! There ya go.
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Sep 14, 2019 20:57
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What's the purpose for decanting a spray paint? So you can brush the paint? With Tamiya paints I can see that making sense. It annoys me so much that they don't have brushable paints in the same colors as their sprays.
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Sep 14, 2019 21:36
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They're super thin, sometimes there's a unique shade you want, and if you decant you can airbrush them with more control than you can straight from the rattle-can. Seems kind of like a slowing dying process though, especially now that companies like MR Paints are putting out super-thin bottled spray lacquers in a huge range of colors.
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Sep 14, 2019 21:54
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If anyone is local to the greater Vancouver area, Colours Art Supplies in Port Coquitlam is having a going out of business sale right now until the 16th, and everything in the entire store is marked down to 70% off. Great chance to buy some brushes, paints, or pastels, or any other art supply you may need. https://www.facebook.com/coloursartportcoquitlam/
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Sep 14, 2019 22:52
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If anyone is local to the greater Vancouver area, Colours Art Supplies in Port Coquitlam is having a going out of business sale right now until the 16th, and everything in the entire store is marked down to 70% off. Great chance to buy some brushes, paints, or pastels, or any other art supply you may need. Why yes I am in that area, and I might head out that way on Monday.
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Sep 14, 2019 23:53
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Charliegrs posted:What's the purpose for decanting a spray paint? So you can brush the paint? With Tamiya paints I can see that making sense. It annoys me so much that they don't have brushable paints in the same colors as their sprays. I decant tamiya primer cans because you get much thinner and less messy primer coats from an airbrush than from the can
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Sep 15, 2019 00:15
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Is it different to the bottles of tamiya primer in any way?
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Sep 15, 2019 03:53
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there are bottles of it?
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Sep 15, 2019 03:54
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Yes, in the same kind of bottles as their glue.
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Sep 15, 2019 07:25
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Raskolnikov38 posted:there are bottles of it? https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/liquid-surface-primer-40ml/none/ It works well, thins with lacquer thinners.
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Sep 15, 2019 08:35
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 Little tank is done. Went easy on the weathering, wash then some pigments. My last project turned into a frankenstein of washes, filters, pigments, and effects that ended up looking messy.
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Sep 15, 2019 19:41
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Bill Posters posted:https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/liquid-surface-primer-40ml/none/ Yeah this stuff is great, gotta ppe up on it though cause lacquer thinner is toxic as, but it sprays down real nice.
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Sep 15, 2019 21:27
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Yooper posted:
All French tanks are good, but this is good even for a French tank. What're you using to get your pigments to stick? I've been having mixed success with low-pressure varnishing, but I'm skeptical even a proper pigment fixative isn't going to gently caress things up once I've got them nice and situated.
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Sep 16, 2019 13:57
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grassy gnoll posted:What're you using to get your pigments to stick? I've been having mixed success with low-pressure varnishing, but I'm skeptical even a proper pigment fixative isn't going to gently caress things up once I've got them nice and situated. Thanks! I used Vallejo Mecha Varnish to seal the model then hit it with pigments after. I haven't had good luck with any other pigment fixer. The mecha varnish seems to make the pigment stick better than other varnishes I've used. On the downside it can be kind of glossy. I don't do anything after I apply the pigment as a sealant.
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Sep 16, 2019 16:47
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I found that matte varnish at very low pressure melts the pigments a little but not entirely. So I just go hog wild with pigments and then hit it with some matte to get them on there pretty solidly. The drawback is that you can't really predict how it's going to turn out. I also found that moistening the area with my oil paint solvent and sprinkling some pigments on top results in a good effect, but if you touch them while they're drying they will smear pretty badly.
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Sep 16, 2019 17:23
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Der Shovel posted:Cross post from trad games! Is this still a thing, I can do a load tomorrow if you like? 1:35 or 15mm? 
big_g fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Sep 17, 2019 |
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Sep 17, 2019 22:41
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It turns out that my new phone is better at taking photos than my actual camera! Either that, or I just suck at photography. Anyway, here's a tank.     This is the Academy T-34-85 factory #112. A solid middle of the road kit, nothing to write home about. The link and length tracks are definitely the biggest pain, they are really hard to clean up and just a little bit too small to fit the model properly. Full sized images and more photos Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Sep 18, 2019 |
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Sep 18, 2019 02:20
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The driver was a good choice. He brings a lot of character to the model. Are you drybrushing on your highlights or airbrushing?
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Sep 18, 2019 16:31
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grassy gnoll posted:The driver was a good choice. He brings a lot of character to the model. I had airbrushed highlights at first, but you could hardly see them after the oil dots, almost everything you see is highlighted with oils.
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Sep 18, 2019 19:06
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