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There's no way that's a recirculation valve. Those are... Well valves. Not crimped copper pipe. Best I can figure is they retrofit hot water through some cold water lines at some point and instead of cutting them apart and soldering on two plugs, they just crimped the pipe and called it good enough.
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Sep 23, 2019 21:27
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DrBouvenstein posted:It definitely wasn't mold. Not remotely slimy, hard and crunchy...like, literally felt like charcoal. Not squishy like I'd expect a gasket to be, though I suppose an old one might get like that? But isn't that usually why happens to old dried up rubber, not rubber that's sitting in water? Did you say the sink itself is new, or new-er? Depending on the chlorine levels of your city water and how they're dosing, it could be that the internal synthetic rubber materials in the sink supply lines are being dissolved slowly due to some interaction that is occurring. Out of curiosity, when you let it sit for awhile (aka days), and then turn it on, did you see quite a bit of air coming out at first?
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Sep 23, 2019 23:58
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SourKraut posted:Did you say the sink itself is new, or new-er? Depending on the chlorine levels of your city water and how they're dosing, it could be that the internal synthetic rubber materials in the sink supply lines are being dissolved slowly due to some interaction that is occurring. Out of curiosity, when you let it sit for awhile (aka days), and then turn it on, did you see quite a bit of air coming out at first? The faucet was brand new, that occurred shortly after installing. And I can't tell if air co.es out since there hasn't been enough time if it has to sit for days... Longest it's been off since the install is maybe 16 hours?
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Sep 24, 2019 00:07
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DrBouvenstein posted:The faucet was brand new, that occurred shortly after installing. If you've only noticed this deposit/residue at this sink and nowhere else, then my money would be on potential breakdown of the sink's supply line flexible material due to some interaction with chlorine, chloramine, or another treatment process chemical. I've seen 3/8" thick SBR hoses blow out due to weak sodium hypochlorite exposure, so it wouldn't be unheard of depending on what those hoses are made out of, especially given the configuration of the supply connections with the copper pipes.
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Sep 24, 2019 00:21
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SourKraut posted:If you've only noticed this deposit/residue at this sink and nowhere else, then my money would be on potential breakdown of the sink's supply line flexible material due to some interaction with chlorine, chloramine, or another treatment process chemical. The supply lines are also brand new. They came with the faucet. 
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Sep 24, 2019 02:46
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DrBouvenstein posted:The supply lines are also brand new. They came with the faucet. Yeah, that's my point. There's several types of primary "synthetic rubber" materials, and not all of them play nicely with what's present in municipal water. It's also possibly that the supply lines were simply not flushed suitably after they were manufactured and that task fell to you. If it flushed out fully and you don't see it anymore, that was probably just the case. If you see it continue to build up going forward though, then the hose inside the flex supply is deteriorating.
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Sep 24, 2019 04:23
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I had a small handyman company fix a drip in one of my rentals, it was a small drip in the flushometer whenever the toilet was flushed (yeah, really old apartment building that it uses the monster-flush commercial-style toilets in all the residential apartments). When he took the toilet out to redo the piping, he said the gasket under the toilet was old enough that removing the toilet destroyed the seal and it needed to be replaced, so I had them do so that day. That was 6 months ago, and now, I have the condo association yelling at me, saying in the last couple months they've been getting a more serious leak that messed up the ceiling of the unit under me. My question is, if the guys I hired hosed something up with the new gasket, what is the etiquette about asking them to come back and fix it properly? I've have them do multiple jobs for me and given them multiple referrals so I have good rapport with them. I don't know for a 100% fact it's their fault, but they bought and installed a new gasket and when the condo association investigated the leak they said that was the entire problem (without me mentioning I had it worked on). I don't wanna be a pushover but I don't want to be an rear end in a top hat either. Should I just ask them to come fix it for real this time, at a discount? The condo above me leaked and screwed up my ceiling and I fixed it on my dime, so the condo association is returning the favor by handling the repairs for the place below me. I just have to fix the gasket to stop any further damage.
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Oct 7, 2019 02:40
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They're professionals (I hope). If so, this kind of thing happens. Call them and tell them that it's stilll leaking, and to please come out & fix it, pronto.
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Oct 7, 2019 02:48
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Zero VGS posted:I had a small handyman company fix a drip in one of my rentals, it was a small drip in the flushometer whenever the toilet was flushed (yeah, really old apartment building that it uses the monster-flush commercial-style toilets in all the residential apartments).
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Oct 7, 2019 02:51
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Hi folks, what is the minimum paperwork I should have in my hands to prove up-front that a plumber is OK for liability purposes? This is for a condo using someone else's money, so I reeeally don't want to be liable for an unlicensed hire if a pipe blows up inside the wall later on. My handyman is trying to set me up with a friend he insists is properly licensed, but when I asked him to send credentials he says the guy writes all that up on-site at the end of the job. I'm guessing that is not proper/common practice. He should be able to simply tell me his name and license number up front, right? And if he shows up without a printed license that says that, send him away? How do I ask for proof that he's bonded and insured and what does it look like? The same question goes for a different plumber who I just asked to give me a quote, and who when I asked to present certification, he said it's for his company and if he shows it he has to "charge the company prices". I said fine, do that, and he said he'd ask his boss but no response yet. Shady or common practice? The job is moving our fridge angle stop deeper into the wall, fixing a bathroom's stuck angle stop, and correcting my handyman's sloppy dishwasher/sink install. Happy Thread fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 22:07
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Hi folks, what is the minimum paperwork I should have in my hands to prove up-front that a plumber is OK for liability purposes? This is for a condo using someone else's money, so I reeeally don't want to be liable for an unlicensed hire if a pipe blows up inside the wall later on. Does the town requires a business/contractors license? If so, ask for that. Any sane version of that is something you can look up online and will have an insurance/surety bond requirement. If not, you should at least be asking for certificate of insurance for their business.
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Oct 10, 2019 22:13
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I have no idea how to find out, but it's Los Angeles
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Oct 10, 2019 22:19
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Dumb Lowtax posted:I have no idea how to find out, but it's Los Angeles Yes, they need a license. He needs to give you his license number, and you need to type it in here: http://www.cslb.ca.gov/OnlineServices/CheckLicenseII/CheckLicense.aspx Hint: he doesn't have one. Just use the look up by name or business name feature.
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Oct 10, 2019 22:29
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Dumb Lowtax posted:I have no idea how to find out, but it's Los Angeles Hello from Los Angeles County. You can get their state contractors license then plug it in here: https://www2.cslb.ca.gov/onlineservices/CheckLicenseII/checklicense.aspx They are required to print it on the side of all vehicles, on all advertisements (think: business cards), and probably also on their invoices if they are licensed. They should be a C-36 (I just looked it up for my plumber.) The website will tell you if they have or are exempt from workers comp, surety bond, and the history behind the bond+license. Get the certificate of insurance, as mentioned, and then call to verify it's in force. It should be at least a million in General Liability and another million in Workers Comp. This is something they should just have as a PDF at the office and should not hesitate to give you. Mr/Mrs "corporate rate" guy was trying to go under the table with you and not tell his boss. Edit: 
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Oct 10, 2019 22:31
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Ah, I was sketched out by my handyman's friend but he actually presented a license number when I asked. Looks like he is the business owner. Name matches his business card. http://www.cslb.ca.gov/OnlineServices/CheckLicenseII/CheckLicense.aspx Does "workers compensation insurance" count as being insured? Does everything else appear to be in order for my building management to be happy? Thanks!
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Oct 10, 2019 22:50
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Ah, I was sketched out by my handyman's friend but he actually presented a license number when I asked. Looks like he is the business owner. Name matches his business card. Workers comp pays the worker who falls off the ladder fixing your condo. General liability pays when he starts a fire in the condo with his torch. You want both.
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Oct 10, 2019 22:53
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Do those insurances usually also cover improper work that results in a leak later on? And does he not appear to have it?  If not I should perhaps go with our condo management's main plumber. He might charge more, but who knows because neither can give me a ballpark quote without visiting first
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Oct 10, 2019 22:56
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Do those insurances usually also cover improper work that results in a leak later on? Workmanship is the bond as I recall, but that's not something I've had to deal with before other than making sure it's there. I'm sure some of the actual professionals here know more about it. I think it's "you did incorrect work and you cannot make it right, I'm going to use your bond to pay another plumber to fix your mistake" but then if that incorrect work say floods out your condo and the one below you it becomes liability. Good contractors should have basically 0 times where their bond was taken because they should be falling over themselves to fix things, but liability claims could happen to the best of them. For a lot of this stuff though you're going to have to prove negligence vs bad luck. If they correctly installed a part which had a hidden defect it could fail and cause a lot of damage which isn't their fault. This is where you insurance comes into effect. You have insurance for your condo contents, liability, and the line item that pays your HOA's likely enormous deductible right? Also you linked the license checker, you have to give us the number for us to look at it. Walking the site to give a bid is normal and should be free. If the building's main plumber is willing to take your small job I would take them up on it. It won't be the cheapest but in theory the HOA already likes them. Care to describe your need here? Edit: LOL I knew I recognized you from somewhere. You're the one who refused to fix their condo for a year. Good luck! H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 23:14
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The guy's license number is 889817: http://www.cslb.ca.gov/OnlineServices/CheckLicenseII/CheckLicense.aspx I didn't refuse jack, I waited over a year for Liberty Mutual to stop endlessly requesting documents / paperwork and slow-walking our claim because we could not (and should not have needed to) pay out of pocket for getting flooded by our upstairs neighbor. We still have not gotten a formal denial from them, which is NOT acceptable, or the payout for our legally covered damage, from them. Just what HOA paid only for getting back to the condo's original 1973 status, not intended to cover improvements/walls-in. I have no idea why you would bring up that our insurance company screwed us as though it reflects badly on us, in a thread about something else, or why that was even memorable. Happy Thread fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 23:22
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Dumb Lowtax posted:The guy's license number is 889817 That looks fine. Their workers comp expires Friday so make sure they're updated if they're going to work after that date.
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Oct 10, 2019 23:28
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H110Hawk posted:That looks fine. Their workers comp expires Friday so make sure they're updated if they're going to work after that date. $15k bond is bullshit for a plumber. Maybe that's normal and customary in LA, but that's wildly insufficient near me.
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Oct 11, 2019 00:53
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Motronic posted:$15k bond is bullshit for a plumber. Maybe that's normal and customary in LA, but that's wildly insufficient near me. It's set by the state. Past that I guess you're suing them. According to this you actually cannot deviate from the bonded amount: https://www.californiacontractorbonds.com/contractors-bonding-vs-liability-insurance/ I wouldn't hire a contractor with less than a million in General Liability and a separate million in Workers Comp.
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Oct 11, 2019 01:30
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To put it in context I have 10 million in employer liability (worker's comp equiv), 2 million in public liability, and another million in professional indemnity, and I don't even have any employees. All I do all day is type code; nothing I do can burn your house down.
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Oct 11, 2019 06:38
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Jaded Burnout posted:To put it in context I have 10 million in employer liability (worker's comp equiv), 2 million in public liability, and another million in professional indemnity, and I don't even have any employees. All I do all day is type code; nothing I do can burn your house down. Yeah, but you live in one of those commie countries with FREE health care.
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Oct 11, 2019 11:11
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wesleywillis posted:Yeah, but you live in one of those commie countries with FREE health care. I pay for that insurance though
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Oct 11, 2019 11:13
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Fridge water line question. Our old fridge had a water line for the icemaker. New fridge does not. So I want to shut off the fridge supply line. But it looks to me like our fridge water line does not have its own separate and proper shut off valve:  Is it possible to (easily) install separate shut-off valve, here? And I'm also thinking that we should get rid of the saddle valve completely and putting in a proper tee. Because the more I read about saddle valves the more they come off as an all-around terrible idea. melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Oct 12, 2019 |
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Oct 12, 2019 13:45
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Your first picture is a picture of the shutoff valve. Turn it.
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Oct 12, 2019 17:34
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Motronic posted:Your first picture is a picture of the shutoff valve. Turn it. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Oct 12, 2019 |
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Oct 12, 2019 18:15
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Yes, the saddle valve has a shut off. That's where you shut it off. This has nothing to do with removing/replacing the saddle valve, which you aren't likely to be able to do on your own based on your post history.
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Oct 12, 2019 18:54
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Motronic posted:Yes, the saddle valve has a shut off. That's where you shut it off. Edited to add: In either case this thing isn't turning at all since it's too corroded/rusted, which is why I thought there might have been an option to add a separate shut off. I just didn't know that a saddle valve had a built-in shut off. So obviously it's getting removed. Just thought I'd share these details in the off-chance that someone else runs into the same thing. melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Oct 12, 2019 |
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Oct 12, 2019 18:56
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melon cat posted:At no point did I pretend to be a plumbing expert of any degree. That's OK, Motronic pretends enough for all of us.
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Oct 12, 2019 18:59
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You can unscrew the 1/4" plastic line and nut and replace it with blind cap. Available at any box store or plumbing supply. Make sure you get a rubber gasket to go with it and use teflon tape/paste on the threads. Less than $10 in supplies total. Then you can reconnect the water line when you have a different fridge if desired. Use the water heater shut off to stop the water. Cut the plastic hose over a bucket and let all residual water drain out. There will be loads of water, use a large bucket. Good luck
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Oct 12, 2019 19:33
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Yeah, to be fair, when I see a shutoff valve with that much corrosion, turning it doesn't strike me as a plan that will result in anything but a leak at the valve that wasn't there 30 seconds ago.
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Oct 12, 2019 20:51
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Here is a much bigger plumbing outfit in Los Angeles that is actually what our building's maintenance staff uses. I assume that in order to get selected for that, they have the best insurance and certifications available. On the lookup tool they too have the $15,000 bond (confirming that it's the only amount available in this area). Surprisingly, even for this big plumbing company no liability insurance is shown on the lookup tool. Does this search tool simply not show liability insurance? That would seemingly be the most important consideration to decide whether a plumber's work will financially ruin you later, yes? Without that showing up, does due diligence mean literally asking each plumber for a scanned certificate of insurance every time? http://www.cslb.ca.gov/OnlineServices/CheckLicenseII/LicenseDetail.aspx?LicNum=903938 License No. 903938
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Oct 13, 2019 20:16
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Here is a much bigger plumbing outfit in Los Angeles that is actually what our building's maintenance staff uses. I assume that in order to get selected for that, they have the best insurance and certifications available. On the lookup tool they too have the $15,000 bond (confirming that it's the only amount available in this area). Correct. Just ask them for a copy of it. You only need to do it when their certificate expires. If some dude falls off a ladder and dies clutching his ignited map gas torch burning down your complex you will feel really glad you spent the time. Make a folder on Google drive called contractors, make a folder per one, store scanned receipts (android drive app has an awesome scanner, other take a picture), and a copy of their insurance - name the file the expiration date. Now not only are you ready when that person dies, but you have a great resource when people ask you for rec's or you need warranty work done. Liability insurance is really cheap if you are competent, because you generally don't have high dollar claims. If they can't afford it that should tell you something. Its why the difference between $100k and $500k on car insurance can be like $50/year - you're past the point of common claim amounts. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Oct 13, 2019 |
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Oct 13, 2019 21:52
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Replacing my cold water washing machine valve. I know I've got the size right, but just wanted to be sure this is an appropriate valve for that purpose.  I wasn't sure if brass is not right for a washer valve, or if non-potable is actually a marker for "only use outside" or anything. In fact, now that I'm googling it, "sillcock" seems like an outdooor type, bleh. Is this usable or should I go back. I was trying to eyeball something similar to the hot-water one installed recently.
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Oct 14, 2019 19:37
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Captain Lavender posted:Replacing my cold water washing machine valve. I know I've got the size right, but just wanted to be sure this is an appropriate valve for that purpose. Not quarter turn either. They make the whole assembly for like $40 it seems? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tectite-1-2-in-Brass-Washing-Machine-Outlet-Box-FSBBOXWM/301460625c https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Brass-MPT-x-MHT-Front-Operated-Dual-Washing-Machine-Valve-VWMDUAF3EB/205812092 Get high quality lines too so when they burst it's even more disappointing.
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Oct 14, 2019 19:49
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"not for potable use" means "don't drink from it"
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Oct 14, 2019 19:50
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Captain Lavender posted:I wasn't sure if brass is not right for a washer valve, or if non-potable is actually a marker for "only use outside" or anything. In fact, now that I'm googling it, "sillcock" seems like an outdooor type, bleh. Is this usable or should I go back. I was trying to eyeball something similar to the hot-water one installed recently. Safe to use indoors for your washing machine. (I'd even drink out of it, too.) Whether that is the correct valve to use with your washing machine depends on what is there now. The pictured sillcock appears to be 1/2" NPS threads? If you can turn off the water going to the washing machine, unscrew the old valve, and you have a 1/2" pipe threaded pipe sticking out, you should be good to go. (Use teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads.) If your old valve was sweated on to a stub out, it will be a little more difficult job.
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Oct 14, 2019 19:51
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H110Hawk posted:Not quarter turn either. They make the whole assembly for like $40 it seems? Thanks. I'm really just trying to do a quick patch job. I rent and am just trying to do it on the quick - they're remodeling sometime in the next year, so I didn't want to get more involved with this setup than necessary for the short- mid-term. And I don't believe my (old) setup accommodates one of those fixtures. Jaded Burnout posted:"not for potable use" means "don't drink from it" Yeah I know, but I'm a complete novice to plumbing, and as far as I know, that could've been code for "... therefore, do not install inside where people live". HycoCam posted:The non-potable water is because it is solid brass fixture that contains trace amounts of lead. California requires it to be labeled as non-potable. Thanks. I've got the right size for sure - from the wall connection to the valve. I just looked at the threads on the output to the washer, and there are about 3/4 as many threads than on the other new one that was installed, don't know if that's a deal breaker. I appreciate all the help.
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Oct 14, 2019 20:04
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