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Well, after a few days of testing and googling, it seems like the current firmware on the Spectrum-provided Askey RAC2V1K is just hosed and won't work with any wifi extender. What is a good, cheap router that can provide adequate wifi signal to an extender about ~20 feet away horizontally and on one floor higher in a house?
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Sep 20, 2019 10:21
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I recently had my internet upgraded to 400mbps service, but my AP HD Nano was only running at ~200mbps. A quick google led me to changing a few settings, namely setting DTIM to 3 on both radios from a default value of 1, changing both radios' power from auto to medium on the 2G radio and high on the 5G one, and increasing the channel width on the 5G radio. Couple questions. Why did that work (getting full bandwidth now), and why isn't that default? The bandwidth bump likely comes from increasing the channel width on 5Ghz. Every Unifi AP I have setup defaulted to 40Mhz on 5Ghz. For 802.11AC speeds you need 80mhz. And on 2Ghz, bumping the power down can actually improve things in close quarters situations. Too much output power can actually cause worse performance with some clients.
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Sep 20, 2019 13:42
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stevewm posted:The bandwidth bump likely comes from increasing the channel width on 5Ghz. Every Unifi AP I have setup defaulted to 40Mhz on 5Ghz. For 802.11AC speeds you need 80mhz. Do other routers default to the larger width? I've never had a problem before but then again I never had high speeds to really notice or a need for fast wifi. Had I not goofed around with a speed test on my phone I'd have likely never noticed anyways
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Sep 20, 2019 16:03
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Do other routers default to the larger width? I've never had a problem before but then again I never had high speeds to really notice or a need for fast wifi. Had I not goofed around with a speed test on my phone I'd have likely never noticed anyways Unifi gear is generally meant for business environments, as such it tends to have conservative defaults. You'll find home gear like stuff from Asus, Linksys, etc.. will default to things like 40mhz on 2ghz and 80/160 on 5ghz.
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Sep 20, 2019 16:24
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I recently had my internet upgraded to 400mbps service, but my AP HD Nano was only running at ~200mbps. A quick google led me to changing a few settings, namely setting DTIM to 3 on both radios from a default value of 1, changing both radios' power from auto to medium on the 2G radio and high on the 5G one, and increasing the channel width on the 5G radio. Couple questions. Why did that work (getting full bandwidth now), and why isn't that default? stevewm posted:Unifi gear is generally meant for business environments, as such it tends to have conservative defaults. Yeah, the Unifi gear is intended to be installed in an environment where you have multiple APs coexisting within range of each other. You run into channel overlap pretty quick when you increase the channel width beyond 40mhz. We've got installs that we manage that have an AP in every room, and if you jack the power and channel width up on every AP manually, they'll all talk all over each other, and you'll end up with much worse throughput and experience. Most home users don't have 30 laptops, plus phones and tablets, all connecting to a single AP, and then that occurring in every room in a building. The defaults are set that way so you can generally get a maximum of users having a usable experience versus a single user getting maximum bandwidth.
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Sep 20, 2019 16:47
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icantfindaname posted:Well, after a few days of testing and googling, it seems like the current firmware on the Spectrum-provided Askey RAC2V1K is just hosed and won't work with any wifi extender. What is a good, cheap router that can provide adequate wifi signal to an extender about ~20 feet away horizontally and on one floor higher in a house? Any of the TP-LINK routers in the OP should work in this case. If you end up needing more range their Deco mesh line is very affordable.
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Sep 20, 2019 19:25
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Hello dears, Not getting the advertised speed with my new Comcast/Xfinity plan*. Just moved in. Here's the skinny: 175mbps speed plan. Getting around 95mpbs in reality. Modem is a Netgear CM400. DOCSIS 3.0 Speed: 343mbps/122mbps Router is a Linksys AC1200/ 300+867. From wall coax>modem>router>wired PC, I get 95mbps down avg. On a wireless connection from my cell, I get around 93mbps avg. Not too much lower than that when done from across the small apartment im in. Is there any way my modem can be a bottleneck here? I feel like it could be an issue if I was getting speeds near or at the max capacity for my modem, but i'm really only at 50% of that speed limit. buglord fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Sep 21, 2019 |
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Sep 21, 2019 05:51
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Those numbers make me think something is linking at 100mb instead of a gig. Have you swapped out the cable running between the modem and router and tested?
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Sep 21, 2019 06:33
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I'm planning far ahead for my next network migration (currently got Amplifi HD that might be causing some issues with my network but troubleshooting for another day), and am trying to decide between two full Unifi builds. I'm leaning towards the AC-PRO setup, as it gives me a little bit more flexibility to expand down the line for non-PoE expansion by getting the US-8 so that I can have everything on a managed switch to keep track of what's where rather than having ghost switches. I can't decide if the savings of $70 is worth having to use passive PoE instead of 802.3af (ignore the typo in the sheet I was tired).
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Sep 22, 2019 02:12
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Unless I am mistaken, the Nano HD is the new hottness that you should get instead of the AC Pro
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Sep 22, 2019 05:38
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Garrand posted:Those numbers make me think something is linking at 100mb instead of a gig. Have you swapped out the cable running between the modem and router and tested? Thanks for the help.
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Sep 22, 2019 06:25
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Buff Hardback posted:I'm planning far ahead for my next network migration (currently got Amplifi HD that might be causing some issues with my network but troubleshooting for another day), and am trying to decide between two full Unifi builds. The AC Lite is also 802.3af, so long as you buy new.
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Sep 23, 2019 02:06
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n0tqu1tesane posted:The AC Lite is also 802.3af, so long as you buy new. Oh neat, that makes planning ahead cheaper.
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Sep 23, 2019 16:34
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Buff Hardback posted:Oh neat, that makes planning ahead cheaper. Yeah, they added standard PoE some time after releasing the AP, and it took a while for their documentation to catch up to that fact. It's still 24v passive capable as well, and the power injector that it comes with is 24v passive.
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Sep 23, 2019 17:07
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So I'm having some serious home network issues, hopefully I can get some help here. I have an Arris Surfobard SB8200, and Comcast gigabit internet. When I plug my desktop into the modem alone, I'm getting, per speedtest.net, just shy of 900 mbps down. As soon as I plug in my Asus AC1900(RT-AC68U) wireless router, the download speed TANKS. It seems to vacillate between being incredibly low, like 40mbps, back up to around 600mbps. This is all on my wired desktop. I've tried both ethernet ports on the Arris. I don't know if it matters at all but sometimes on speedtest.net it will not give me an upload speed, just a download speed. Any device connected to either the 2.4 or the 5ghz asus network gets garbage test speeds. I'm talking anywhere from 7mbps to maybe 200mbps, with the speedtest giving an error maybe 25% of the time, saying "a socket error occurred during the download test." The speed seems to vacillate like the wired connection, as well. My IPv6 is set to automatic, and I just today called Asus tech support so I could get the router working. To do that we just switched the DHCP query frequency from "Aggressive" to "Normal", and that got the DHCP to actually work with the router. But now these speed problems. What the gently caress is the deal? The wireless router is a few years old, probably like 5 if I had to guess? I already had to upgrade my modem, really hope I don't have to do the same with the router...
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Sep 24, 2019 02:56
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5 years may be at the point where it makes sense to upgrade due to the hardware failing. That being said, to start you off: Have you upgraded the firmware to try to solve the problem? What DNS servers are you using? If you do a trace route to something like 8.8.8.8, what does it look like?
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Sep 24, 2019 03:07
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Internet Explorer posted:5 years may be at the point where it makes sense to upgrade due to the hardware failing. That being said, to start you off: Yeah, mentally calculating how old the router is may be a sign to upgrade.. -Firmware 3.0.0.4.384_81049-gbd61205 -Wireless router mode / AiMesh Router mode My DDNS Client is currently turned off, and I'm sorry to say I don't know how to trace route to something  In my LAN settings the DNS and WINS Server fields are blank. It also looks like the router has its own firewall?
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Sep 24, 2019 03:33
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Johnny Truant posted:As soon as I plug in my Asus AC1900(RT-AC68U) My 5 year old same make and model just poo poo the bed. I suffered with it for months before realizing my network sucked because of it. Bought a er-x and unifi nanohd and all is well in the world.
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Sep 24, 2019 03:40
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Johnny Truant posted:I'm sorry to say I don't know how to trace route to something Click the start button, when the menu pops up simply type cmd and hit enter. A black window will pop up, type tracert 8.8.8.8 and hit enter. Give it a minute or three to go through all its hops, then copy & paste the result here.
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Sep 24, 2019 05:47
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Click the start button, when the menu pops up simply type cmd and hit enter. A black window will pop up, type tracert 8.8.8.8 and hit enter. Give it a minute or three to go through all its hops, then copy & paste the result here. Thanks for this. And the reason I ask is that these days where your DNS goes has an affect on where you're pointed for cache (and speedtest) servers and I have seen that cause really odd performance issues like this. That being said, you should probably plan for a new router/WAP. I hate to say it, but $100 over 5 years is the price you pay for this stuff.
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Sep 24, 2019 05:55
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H110Hawk posted:My 5 year old same make and model just poo poo the bed. I suffered with it for months before realizing my network sucked because of it. Bought a er-x and unifi nanohd and all is well in the world. Ah, good to know. Looks like I'm in the market for a new router! Anyone got any reqs? The Unifi NanoHD looks pretty decent. TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Click the start button, when the menu pops up simply type cmd and hit enter. A black window will pop up, type tracert 8.8.8.8 and hit enter. Give it a minute or three to go through all its hops, then copy & paste the result here. Internet Explorer posted:Thanks for this. Thanks for indulging very tech illiterate me. Here's the results. Desktop plugged in to modem with router running: 1 8 ms 7 ms 6 ms 96.120.67.185 2 8 ms 9 ms 7 ms 162.151.171.149 3 7 ms 7 ms 8 ms 162.151.150.6 4 11 ms 10 ms 10 ms be-334-ar01.needham.ma.boston.comcast.net [96.108.70.141] 5 17 ms 16 ms 16 ms be-7015-cr02.newyork.ny.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.90.217] 6 16 ms 15 ms 16 ms be-10390-pe03.111eighthave.ny.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.83.90] 7 14 ms 15 ms 15 ms 96-87-11-70-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [96.87.11.70] 8 * * * Request timed out. 9 17 ms 16 ms 14 ms dns.google [8.8.8.8] 655.24 down/21.92 up, immediately after the above results. Desktop plugged in to router: 1 <1 ms <1 ms <1 ms router.asus.com [192.168.1.1] 2 16 ms 7 ms 7 ms 96.120.67.185 3 8 ms 6 ms 7 ms 162.151.171.149 4 7 ms 7 ms 7 ms 162.151.150.6 5 11 ms 10 ms 9 ms be-334-ar01.needham.ma.boston.comcast.net [96.108.70.141] 6 18 ms 16 ms 16 ms be-7015-cr02.newyork.ny.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.90.217] 7 16 ms 15 ms 15 ms be-10390-pe03.111eighthave.ny.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.83.90] 8 16 ms 16 ms 16 ms 96-87-11-70-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [96.87.11.70] 9 * * * Request timed out. 10 15 ms 15 ms 15 ms dns.google [8.8.8.8] 948.43 down/00.00 up, immediately after above results. Really strange back and forth of trash internet to near gigabit speeds.. is it normal for a wireless router to wonk things up even if a computer is plugged into the modem? The modem is all of a month old... Fake edit: my desktop is now getting the same near gigabit speeds down, but still frequently reports 0.0 up once I just plugged it into a LAN connection on the wireless router, would that drastically affect my connection? I thought it would be better to plug my desktop directly into the modem, while the router was also plugged in, just to the second ethernet port. Johnny Truant fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Sep 24, 2019 |
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Sep 24, 2019 12:01
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Click the start button, when the menu pops up simply type cmd and hit enter. A black window will pop up, type tracert 8.8.8.8 and hit enter. Give it a minute or three to go through all its hops, then copy & paste the result here. Please consider the use of pathping instead as tracert is inferior in every way.
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Sep 24, 2019 13:26
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Johnny Truant posted:Ah, good to know. Looks like I'm in the market for a new router! Anyone got any reqs? The Unifi NanoHD looks pretty decent. FYI, the NanoHD isn't a router.
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Sep 24, 2019 15:05
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Thermopyle posted:FYI, the NanoHD isn't a router. Yeah I saw that.. is there any reason for an access point over a wireless router, or should I just check out routers?
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Sep 24, 2019 15:35
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Johnny Truant posted:Yeah I saw that.. is there any reason for an access point over a wireless router, or should I just check out routers? Without getting too technical. You need both, a router to tell traffic where to go and an access point so wifi devices can connect to the network. What you're referring to as a "router" is an all in one box that has both of those things together (along with a switch that lets you connect multiple wired devices). All in one boxes like the Archer C7 are generally simpler to use. A combo like an Edgerouter-x and an nanoHD are more powerful but take more setup.
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Sep 24, 2019 16:10
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Wacky Delly posted:Without getting too technical. You need both, a router to tell traffic where to go and an access point so wifi devices can connect to the network. What you're referring to as a "router" is an all in one box that has both of those things together (along with a switch that lets you connect multiple wired devices). Ahhh okay, I dig now. Thanks for explaining the basics to me. I'll probably go with an easier all-in-one device then; I've already dumped more money into figuring out my desktop/networking stuff than I planned  Is the Archer C7 a well-regarded device? Asus hasn't done me wrong in the past, and it's got a nice pricetag.
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Sep 24, 2019 17:00
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Johnny Truant posted:I thought it would be better to plug my desktop directly into the modem, while the router was also plugged in, just to the second ethernet port. The only time you want to plug the desktop directly into the modem is for testing (and when you do that, you don't want anything else plugged into the modem). The internet is a very scary place and you generally want your desktop to be behind a device that does some firewalling on its own (like your router).
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Sep 24, 2019 17:46
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astral posted:The only time you want to plug the desktop directly into the modem is for testing (and when you do that, you don't want anything else plugged into the modem). The internet is a very scary place and you generally want your desktop to be behind a device that does some firewalling on its own (like your router). Huh, I definitely did not know this, thanks. Even with MalwareBytes and BitDefender plugging directly into the modem is still no bueno? Think I'm gonna pull the trigger on the RT-ACRH17 unless anyone has a better rec. Thanks for all the help, y'all!
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Sep 24, 2019 18:30
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Cox just added gigabit to my area, so I have just upgraded to Fingerblast Internet. I have a new modem on the way, and am currently using an Archer C7. Is that router going to gate my speeds? I get pretty good coverage in my house.
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Sep 24, 2019 18:33
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canyoneer posted:Cox just added gigabit to my area, so I have just upgraded to Fingerblast Internet. I’m not judging, but that router won’t give you as quick access to your fingerblast videos as newer routers might.
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Sep 24, 2019 19:06
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TPLink stuff is bad quality. I wish it would stop being recommended. Sure it may work but not for long.
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Sep 24, 2019 19:24
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redeyes posted:TPLink stuff is bad quality. I wish it would stop being recommended. Sure it may work but not for long. "best of soho" is still soho, and has its place in consumer hardware. What would you suggest in its place? Netgear?
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Sep 24, 2019 19:32
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I'm hoping someone knows this - is there firmware for the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 that allows it to have a usb LTE modem failover? it's a very, very limited use case - basically i will have an internet-based security system but it would be pretty easy for someone to clip the cable before breaking into the house. the failover would ensure that any sensor getting tripped could still send its signal. or, if my internet is down it would save the security company from contacting me (they reach out if there's no internet for ~10 minutes).
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Sep 24, 2019 19:49
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Johnny Truant posted:Huh, I definitely did not know this, thanks. Even with MalwareBytes and BitDefender plugging directly into the modem is still no bueno? It takes minutes directly exposed to the internet for you to start getting hit with attempts for viruses and other malware. It's not a good idea to do this, ever. It used to be around 10 minutes for a windows computer (think XP) to get a virus. It's hard to properly explain how ugly it is out there. Things have gotten better but don't do it. I expose ports to the internet and accept unsolicited connections for data processing for a living.  Coming up on 15 years at it.
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Sep 24, 2019 21:04
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H110Hawk posted:It takes minutes directly exposed to the internet for you to start getting hit with attempts for viruses and other malware. It's not a good idea to do this, ever. It used to be around 10 minutes for a windows computer (think XP) to get a virus. It's hard to properly explain how ugly it is out there. Things have gotten better but don't do it. Fuckin seriously? Yeesh, you just caused me anxiety until I realized my PC is still plugged in to my router right now, haha! I will definitely never do this again, thank you for the input. Also I just really like the phrase "directly exposed to the internet", like that should be the tagline for a 1960's horror movie. bobfather posted:I’m not judging, but that router won’t give you as quick access to your fingerblast videos as newer routers might. redeyes posted:TPLink stuff is bad quality. I wish it would stop being recommended. Sure it may work but not for long. What would you recommend? The OP still has the TP-LINK series advertised but should I maybe look at the Ubiquiti stuff? I don't mind if I have a separate router/access point; just not tryna break the bank.
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Sep 24, 2019 22:03
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redeyes posted:TPLink stuff is bad quality. I wish it would stop being recommended. Sure it may work but not for long. I picked up a TP-Link C4000 router a couple weeks ago. Apparently if you set up the DHPC Server to reserve an IP address, and you set the text in the Description field to have a space in it, the interface won't object, but (in my experience) the Wifi connection will die and most of the wired stuff will be unable to connect to the internet. This apparently has been an issue with some TP-Link firmwares for a few years now.
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Sep 24, 2019 22:24
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Guitarchitect posted:I'm hoping someone knows this - is there firmware for the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 that allows it to have a usb LTE modem failover? Is it a more traditional style alarm system with an internet interface, or is it one of the newer alarm systems like Simplisafe? They have cellular communicators for traditional alarm systems that bypass the internet thing.
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Sep 24, 2019 22:30
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Going to pick up a Tplink C5 today, replacing a D-link DIR-655. For 40 CAD, even if it only works for 2 years, that's not bad.
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Sep 27, 2019 17:02
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Guitarchitect posted:I'm hoping someone knows this - is there firmware for the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 that allows it to have a usb LTE modem failover? Is there not a Cellular backup that works with this system? I have a honeywell lyric system that I had to install an AT&T LTE card in. Most other systems I'm aware of have the option of a built in cell backup which would be the best choice. Cursory google search shows there may be a dd-wrt firmware version that works with specific usb lte modems. I'm not sure I'd trust it to work though.
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Sep 27, 2019 17:17
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Get the backup path added at the alarm panel so you don't have to worry about it. Our monitored alarms (RedCare) don't use PSTN at all any more - they have an ethernet connection into a VLAN that talks HTTPS out to the Internet as their primary path, and LTE failover. We'd have to jump through hoops to actually get one that connects via the phone line, not that we'd ever want that.
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