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Finished a pack of Primaris Wulfen Marines this weekend: It was also an excuse to try different skin tones as well, with varying results. Need to try the warm one on more things for sure. Still have issues painting pale skin. Talassar Blue over Runefang steel makes for great lenses.
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Sep 22, 2019 15:47
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Painted the other marine a friend, managed to get the linework a bit thinner now I'm not so ill. Added a bit of battle damage as well, looks pretty cool.  
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Sep 22, 2019 16:11
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Painted "Iron Father Feirros" after he had a slight accident with a vat of yellow paint.
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Sep 23, 2019 16:06
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Count_Brass posted:Painted the other marine a friend, managed to get the linework a bit thinner now I'm not so ill. Added a bit of battle damage as well, looks pretty cool. I very much like this color scheme. And all your work on the little details really shows in those pictures, great work.
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Sep 23, 2019 16:21
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Put some paint on a couple Zone Mortalis tiles this weekend: 
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Sep 23, 2019 17:42
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Worked on some Legion stuff over the weekend. Finished up Director Krennic: and got some work done on Boba Fett.  
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Sep 23, 2019 18:09
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Hixson posted:Put some paint on a couple Zone Mortalis tiles this weekend: Jealous.
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Sep 23, 2019 18:20
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Did not post here for years, but I did not stop with painting. Been adding more and more figures to my BB gobbos, as well as doing other BB figures (and other non BB figures not pictured this time!).  
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Sep 23, 2019 22:07
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I'm finally starting to paint three Kickstarters' worth of Reaper Bones. Does anyone have any suggestions for primers specifically for the contrast paints? I'm using a Rustoleum off-white but it leaves a bit of a tacky finish and the paints rub off a little easier than the usual GW line or Reaper paints. I gather Contrasts don't stick to Bones without primer, I think.
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Sep 23, 2019 23:27
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Hixson posted:Put some paint on a couple Zone Mortalis tiles this weekend: I have a buttload of these to paint and I'd love to hear about your technique here! It looks great. 
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Sep 23, 2019 23:35
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Harkano posted:I have a buttload of these to paint and I'd love to hear about your technique here! It looks great. Hey thanks. My process looks something like this: 1. Black rattle can primer 2. Grey preshade with an airbrush. I use stynlrez grey. 3. Basecoat of Vallejo sand yellow. You can mess around a bit here to make it more or less yellow. The bottom left tiles in my picture came out a tad more yellow than my other ones for instance. 4. Use the adhesive side of painters tape to “pull off” bits of paint for the chipping effect. 5. Matte clear coat 6. Heavy burnt umber oil wash 7. Once the oil wash is mostly dry dab away pigments in the “high spots” where you’d expect to see more traffic 8. Repeat 7 but with a bit of thinner on your rag once dried 9. Matte clear, done!
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Sep 24, 2019 01:10
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Hixson posted:Hey thanks. My process looks something like this: How soon after the yellow coat do you do the tape chipping?
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Sep 24, 2019 04:18
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Wait until it’s dry or almost dry. If it’s not coming up use some stronger tape. The thinner the basecoat the easier it is to pull up
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Sep 24, 2019 04:25
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Jetfire posted:I'm finally starting to paint three Kickstarters' worth of Reaper Bones. Does anyone have any suggestions for primers specifically for the contrast paints? I'm using a Rustoleum off-white but it leaves a bit of a tacky finish and the paints rub off a little easier than the usual GW line or Reaper paints. I gather Contrasts don't stick to Bones without primer, I think. Army Painter white spray primer works great on Bones. Even finish and dries without remaining tacky. There’s an old bones thread with links to comparisons between different primers, AP and one other brand worked best.
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Sep 24, 2019 05:50
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Bucnasti posted:Army Painter white spray primer works great on Bones. Even finish and dries without remaining tacky. There’s an old bones thread with links to comparisons between different primers, AP and one other brand worked best. Krylon Dual Paint + Primer
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Sep 24, 2019 08:07
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Booley posted:Painted "Iron Father Feirros" after he had a slight accident with a vat of yellow paint. Awesome
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Sep 24, 2019 11:03
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Jetfire posted:I'm finally starting to paint three Kickstarters' worth of Reaper Bones. Does anyone have any suggestions for primers specifically for the contrast paints? I'm using a Rustoleum off-white but it leaves a bit of a tacky finish and the paints rub off a little easier than the usual GW line or Reaper paints. I gather Contrasts don't stick to Bones without primer, I think. I have the first big Kickstarter set. Make sure you scrub the models with a toothbrush and a mild soap before you prime them. They have a coating on them more so than plastic models.
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Sep 24, 2019 13:27
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Hixson posted:Put some paint on a couple Zone Mortalis tiles this weekend: with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Did not post here for years, but I did not stop with painting. Been adding more and more figures to my BB gobbos, as well as doing other BB figures (and other non BB figures not pictured this time!).
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Sep 24, 2019 13:40
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berzerkmonkey posted:These are some nice paint jobs! (Now just do the bases!) Bases done on the gobbos and the mummies since. Not the rotters tho, still not sure what type of pitch I want for the team.
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Sep 24, 2019 14:09
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Anyone (likely in EU) tried Luke APS products? I just bought £40 worth on a whim because I like his tutorials, but his products are so cheap I wonder if anybody could comment on them (should probably have asked before I bought them).
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Sep 24, 2019 14:52
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Furism posted:Anyone (likely in EU) tried Luke APS products? I just bought £40 worth on a whim because I like his tutorials, but his products are so cheap I wonder if anybody could comment on them (should probably have asked before I bought them). Is that the guy who spray paints indoors because he's certain the diabetes will take him first? If it's the stuff he uses in his videos I can't imagine there being issues with it, he makes good poo poo. His site really goes in depth on his materials too.
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Sep 24, 2019 14:58
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Is that the guy who spray paints indoors because he's certain the diabetes will take him first? I... don't know. 
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Sep 24, 2019 15:43
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Is that the guy who spray paints indoors because he's certain the diabetes will take him first?  As a diabetic and living in the EU I can't imagine doing that. Last time I primed anything indoors I made sure there was a fan running for ventilation and air circulation.
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Sep 24, 2019 15:59
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Yeah, I'm having trouble finding the video but 100 percent that's him, he was spray painting indoors right next to his head with no mask and was like "I know I know but honestly the type 2 diabetes is going to get me well before this does", like jesus dude it's not pancreatic cancer go outside.
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Sep 24, 2019 16:06
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Saying "I can't be hosed" very frequently is one of the primary causes of type 2 diabetes.
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Sep 24, 2019 16:11
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JBP posted:Saying "I can't be hosed" very frequently is one of the primary causes of type 2 diabetes. Not wrong to be honest. 
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Sep 24, 2019 16:22
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Hey anyone use the GSW black primer paint? I feel like I'm using it wrong because I've never had anything clog up my airbrush so much. Had to actually throw it in the jewellery cleaner twice.
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Sep 24, 2019 17:16
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SatelliteCore posted:I have the first big Kickstarter set. Make sure you scrub the models with a toothbrush and a mild soap before you prime them. They have a coating on them more so than plastic models. Yeah, I've been doing the wash and scrub before painting. I'll try Krylon or AP next, thanks thread. Is AP's Skeleton Bone primer similar enough to Wraithbone? Was looking for a cheaper alternative to the GW version with the same warm colour. Jetfire fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Sep 25, 2019 |
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Sep 25, 2019 01:02
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I know this was a couple of pages back, but I wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded about my long post about burnout. I think it helped. Something I've been meaning to ask about is tools for cleaning/altering minis. I've got a pair of the Xuron cutters, and a pin vise for drilling gun barrels (though I've not used it much, so I don't know how well really works), but I was looking to get some other stuff. One main thing I'd like to do is get a new set of hobby knives. I thought an Xacto kit would be the way to go, but the reviews on Amazon make it sound like the quality of Xacto is not as good as it used to be. I was wondering if there was a better alternative. The other thing I thought about was a hobby saw, for removing or altering bits without putting too much strain on the clippers. I haven't looked too much for hobby saws, so I don't know what good or what's to be avoided. As a follow-up to the replies about airbrushes, it sounds like it is something that takes a lot of time and care in to learn and maintain (I need to note down some of the stuff that was posted so I don't forget). However, I think it might be worth it to try it at some point in the future (not the immediate future), if only to have a way to prime minis when the weather isn't that good, or to do some quick-and-easy base painting. Some people have told me you can get airbrushes from Harbor Freight, but I don't know if they have the kind suited for mini painting. We have a compressor, but I don't know if it's meant to be used with an airbrush. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Sep 25, 2019 |
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Sep 25, 2019 05:01
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GW do a hobby saw, from my experience their tools are quite good. I got an airbrush a few weeks ago and I haven’t found it that difficult to get up and running. If you’re happy thinning paint for brush painting you can do it for airbrush (I’ve been throwing Vallejo, GW and Scale75 paints through it only thinning with water and it’s worked a treat.) Once you’re dialled in air pressure-wise you’re good to go. Cleaning has been easy as well, throw some water through it, then some airbrush cleaner, off you go. I’m only using it for priming and basecoats at the moment but it’s saved me a load of time on the last few minis so for me it’s already paying for itself (lookin’ at you Sons Of Horus green!) It’ll definitely take me a long time to get good with it but for now being able to base a mini in 3 minutes instead of 40 is great!
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Sep 25, 2019 15:56
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Max Wilco posted:I know this was a couple of pages back, but I wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded about my long post about burnout. I think it helped. You get hobby saws that fit onto like a scalpel handle. Do not get those. They suck. They have very thin blades (yay!) but have almost no stiffness to them (boo!). Get a razor saw. If you just put "razor saw" into amazon (in the UK at least) you get one for like £9 eligible for prime shipping that is pretty decent. And if you dont like it, well it was less than a tenner anyway. The basic idea is that it does a nice straight cut without losing too much material (so the blade isnt wavy like a hacksaw blade is for example). I love my side cutters, but if you were to try and clip an arm off a model with them, best case scenario you get a clean cut at the shoulder, but the arm is pinched where it was attached. Worst case scenario the arm is pretty mangled and also pings across the room and I have to spend 20 minutes on my hands and knees looking for the loving thing before giving it up for lost. With a razor saw its a fairly clean cut, so I can put a new arm on the dude, and also put the old arm on a new dude with minimum clean up. When it comes to knives... I dont do a huge number of conversions any more. But I do some, and I have to say that like 90% of my knife work is done with a set of cheap snap off blade knives from a pound shop. Its the kind with a retractable blade where you can snap off the end where it gets blunt and just extend the new blade. It was 2 thin ones (my model workhorse knives) and 2 stanley knife sized ones (I mainly use the bigger ones for doing terrain) for a pound. They do the job fine. The rest is done with a cheap-ish hobby knife similar to the Xacto ones you linked (but some no-name brand. I might have bought it in Tiger maybe? It definitely cost less than £5 with a bunch of blades most of which are odd shapes I'll never use). As long as the chuck which holds the blade is metal, its all good. If its plastic, then it just doesnt last in my experience. I had one from the same pound shop I got the snap off knives, and the plastic bit that held the blades just very quickly loosened and lost its thread to the point of being dangerous to use. So you can go cheap, but dont go super super super cheap. Chances are the blades are more or less the same in any cheap to mid price hobby knife, so its really the bit that holds them (and the bit you hold) you want to look at. Metal good, plastic bad. If you want to pay more for one with a nice case, go for it, but I'd rather have one with no case and a replaceable blade guard so I can just chuck the knife in the tub with my other modelling tools. You might also want to pick up a set of jewellers files/needle files for cleaning particularly rough areas. Again, do not go expensive unless you are going to be using them drat near constantly. Cheap ones will work fine, they are mainly just less durable. If you are going to be filling a lot of voids/doing modelling with greenstuff or milliput, I'd also recommend get some cheap rear end sculpting tools or dental tools. Silicon brushes (intended for for clay modelling) can also be handy for pushing greenstuff into a hole in a model and then smoothing it over.
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Sep 25, 2019 16:40
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Jetfire posted:Yeah, I've been doing the wash and scrub before painting. I'll try Krylon or AP next, thanks thread. IMO AP paints are inconsistent garbo. I don't know if you're just looking for a color match, but I'm not sure if the AP is going to be smooth enough for Contrasts, if that's your ultimate goal.
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Sep 25, 2019 17:04
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Max Wilco posted:Knives, saws, airbrushing and compressors. Xacto knives are pretty much there for cleanup and opening packaging; buy a generic box of blades for a couple bucks and throw them away whenever they break or dull. Nippers are for removing stuff from a sprue. You can use either to do conversions, but you're going to have a hell of a lot of cleanup and engineering to make up for it. Any major alterations you want to make to a model should be done with a saw whenever possible, because it gives you a neater, cleaner, more level cut to work from. A jeweler's saw is what you should look into, because you want a really narrow kerf when you're working with minis. If you want a really specialized saw, I like this thing more than any other hobby cutting product I've ever used: http://www.umm-usa.com/catalog/tools_JLC.html Cuts clean and narrow with minimal force, plus the razor-style blades are great for reetching panel lines if you've sanded them out. Learning to care for your airbrush is not difficult or intellectually challenging. Cleanup just takes longer than dumping your wash cup and hitting your brush with some soap. Having an airbrush saves you a lot of time at the painting table at the cost of maybe fifteen minutes of cleanup if you're being exceptionally thorough. It's also not a recipe for immediate improvement, because you'll need to learn an entirely new way to do brush handling, blending techniques, paint thinning, and so on. You can run an airbrush off a pancake compressor with a regulator attached. You probably won't ever go above 40 PSI on an airbrush, compared to the hundreds of PSI of pressure you can get from a shop compressor. You can get a hobby compressor for pretty cheap - Spraygunner is selling their tanked compressor for a hundred bucks right now, and that's probably more than you'd need for the foreseeable future. A tank is nice and lets your compressor run a little less, with less pulsing as it works. It's also not absolutely necessary. A hobby compressor is probably quieter than any Hobby Freight model you'll find, which can be an asset if you want to paint without earplugs in.
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Sep 25, 2019 17:40
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berzerkmonkey posted:IMO AP paints are inconsistent garbo. I don't know if you're just looking for a color match, but I'm not sure if the AP is going to be smooth enough for Contrasts, if that's your ultimate goal. Army Painter's equivalents to a lot of the thinner Citadel layers are hot loving garbage, especially bone/yellow/pink/purple and most of their warmer/yellow metallics. I started using Vallejo and the difference in quality is night and day. Awhile back, when I first got an airbrush I also picked up the badger minitaire set discounted, and some of their stuff was straight up defective (notably their white / grey). I got some Vallejo colors instead. There's a couple of colors that I find to be outstanding in each range. Army painters washes/inks are great. P3 Necrotite Green is amazing, so vibrant. At this point in the hobby I have a frankenstein collection from so many generations of paint purchasing but my original fumbling purchase Vallejo game colors are still good after all these years. Dropper bottle supremacy I guess.
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Sep 25, 2019 17:49
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frest posted:At this point in the hobby I have a frankenstein collection from so many generations of paint purchasing It's where we all go eventually. It's basically the always sunny red-twine meme with different colours being connected
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Sep 25, 2019 23:16
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Guys, Gotham City Chronicles is pretty fun. I'm starting on the villains now and they are pretty good models for board game pieces. 
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Sep 26, 2019 01:28
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This took me hours but I'm really proud of it tbh. Not perfect but looks awesome irl. Can't wait to do another 19 then my aggressors. 
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Sep 26, 2019 02:58
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berzerkmonkey posted:IMO AP paints are inconsistent garbo. I don't know if you're just looking for a color match, but I'm not sure if the AP is going to be smooth enough for Contrasts, if that's your ultimate goal. Basic objectives here are to use contrast paints to bang out as many of the hundreds of Bones I have sitting in a box as I can, hopefully with a primer that helps the paint stick to the minis (since contrast seems to not work at all on unprimed Bones) and ideally it'd be something in the light/warm bone colour because I like the effect it has, but a normal white primer that doesn't make everything sticky would also be fine.
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Sep 26, 2019 05:07
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Got a Badger patriot and started messing around. Fumbled my way through how to paint these death guard (including repainting various details over and over until finally settling), experimenting with zenithal and so on My favorite armor tone result was this guy  But I worked out the glaze recipe, and figured out what /didn't/ work by painting these poor dudes   Not 100% happy with the tentacles/mutated flesh yet but I figure with two dozen more dudes to go I'll figure it out
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Sep 26, 2019 05:46
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JBP posted:This took me hours but I'm really proud of it tbh. Not perfect but looks awesome irl. Can't wait to do another 19 then my aggressors. Space marines are so boring they almost hurt to look at. This is the best one of them I've seen in this thread. Original. Great concept. Well executed. I'd play an army of these.
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Sep 26, 2019 06:03
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