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Harvey Mantaco posted:Space marines are so boring they almost hurt to look at. This is the best one of them I've seen in this thread. Original. Great concept. Well executed. Cheers. A guy at my club plays ultras and they're painstakingly painted mostly, but now he's just spraying them and adding metals then calling it done. He chose them when he started playing a couple of years ago and regrets not doing his own thing, but all the transfers and how tos were ultras. I actually like the new models a lot and only went in on marines because I got a cheap etb Redemptor dread to paint out of interest.
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Sep 26, 2019 06:59
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Do people just leave all the grenade boxes and poo poo off their repulsors? I know that people minimise or ignore the accoutrements on the side but I think the turrets are good without poo poo jammed all over them. I'll just blutac them on if anyone has a problem with needing to eyeball the bullshit do nothing weapons.
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Sep 26, 2019 11:13
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newbie question: how do people feel about subassemblies on rank and file dudes? i really hate trying to paint in behind two-handed guns and the like. does it save time overall?
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Sep 26, 2019 11:22
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jesus WEP posted:newbie question: how do people feel about subassemblies on rank and file dudes? i really hate trying to paint in behind two-handed guns and the like. does it save time overall? I don't find it that useful outside of leaving off backpacks. You also risk mess and stuff trying to glue bits on when they're painted. I'm not trying to win any medals though, so you should give it a go on one model and see if it works out.
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Sep 26, 2019 11:36
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jesus WEP posted:newbie question: how do people feel about subassemblies on rank and file dudes? i really hate trying to paint in behind two-handed guns and the like. does it save time overall? Depends on the model. It can really speed things up if the parts are distinct colors. For example I isolate the heads, shoulder pads, guns, and backpacks on my guys.
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Sep 26, 2019 13:52
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What's a solid paint set for under $50? Looking for something with variety and decent quality paints that cover a range of colors.
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Sep 26, 2019 14:03
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Verisimilidude posted:What's a solid paint set for under $50? Looking for something with variety and decent quality paints that cover a range of colors. What are you trying to paint?
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Sep 26, 2019 14:08
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jesus WEP posted:newbie question: how do people feel about subassemblies on rank and file dudes? i really hate trying to paint in behind two-handed guns and the like. does it save time overall? I will mirror everyone else. It depends. How complex is your scheme? Let X be the cost in time and willpower of creating the sub assemblies. Let Y be the benefit in time and willpower of using the sub assembly approach. If X - Y < 0, you should use sub assemblies. The cost is it both time and willpower. You can't play a game when all your dudes arms are off their torsos. It also takes time and effort to do this. You will also need a manner to correctly store all these half assembled models. If you are just doing Ultramarines, Blood Angels, or any of the monochromatic marines, it probably isn't worth it. If you are doing quartered or halved marines, it probably is. Marine model arms are often in the way of getting that perfect line, and their color is matched to the shoulder. It works to paint the arms separately. If you are doing a pattern that has a mix of light and dark colors, particularly where the placement of the light colors requires them to be painted after the dark colors. So, imagine a marine that has dark torso and yellow arms. You are going to have to prime light, paint the torso, then paint the arms. If you get dark paint on the arms, you are going to have to touch that up. If certain important details are hard to get to, it might make sense to paint in assemblies. Good options: Vehicles (body / turrets / tracks) Dreadnoughts (base and legs / Torso / Arms) Howling Griffons / Nova Marines (Quartered) Storm Lords / Angels of Retribution (Halved) Scythes of the Emperor (bright chest / dark arms and legs) Destroyers (paint heads and shoulders yellow, body/arms/legs grey black) Bad Options: The Founding Chapters You also need a decent amount of hobby experience to correctly assemble modern models in assemblies. You have to get the arms properly aligned, place the shoulder pads in a way that won't interfere with assembly, AND keep track of which sets of arms go with each other and with which model. (This is why I prefer monopose models for this approach.)
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Sep 26, 2019 14:29
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Verisimilidude posted:What's a solid paint set for under $50? Looking for something with variety and decent quality paints that cover a range of colors. As a person who invested in a big ol starter set of paints I suggest instead to just decide what you are painting and what the scheme and highlights will be and just getting them as bottles. You end up using way less colors of paint than you think you need for most armies and a huge portion of my set has gone untouched even though i have miltiple squads of different kinds of armies in different color schemes. I spent too much on brushes also, in hindsight.
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Sep 26, 2019 14:30
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jesus WEP posted:newbie question: how do people feel about subassemblies on rank and file dudes? i really hate trying to paint in behind two-handed guns and the like. does it save time overall? I’m wishing I’d done it on the Briar Queen dudes at the moment, getting paint up inside the hollow head bits is a nightmare.
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Sep 26, 2019 14:30
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jesus WEP posted:newbie question: how do people feel about subassemblies on rank and file dudes? i really hate trying to paint in behind two-handed guns and the like. does it save time overall? I always tend to do subassemblies but then I haven't painted more than five models at the most in one go. Even then I try to break it down into the least number of components. So usually body and head as one piece and then arms/weapons separate. Then just avoiding painting the connection points to avoid a mess. But then I'm also the kind of person who hate leaving stuff unpainted even if it's really not visible afterwards. So take it with a grain of salt.
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Sep 26, 2019 14:46
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Have been a bit sick so had to opportunity to spend some time painting. Finally started painting up the thorns of the briar queen and while I'm not super happy with how the robes came out it's good to lay brush back to mini. 
hooman fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Sep 26, 2019 |
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Sep 26, 2019 15:31
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I have a Dremel mini-drill and I wanted to use it to drill holes in my miniatures. So I went to the hardware shop and bought some tiny drill bits. But when I drill, the plastic melts and accumulates around the bit, making a mess. What am I doing wrong? I checked the drill bits box more closely and it says they're for metal, which might be my problem? Does Dremel make drills for plastic?JBP posted:This took me hours but I'm really proud of it tbh. Not perfect but looks awesome irl. Can't wait to do another 19 then my aggressors. You must paint these with Ride the Lightning playing in the background. 
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Sep 26, 2019 15:36
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Furism posted:I have a Dremel mini-drill and I wanted to use it to drill holes in my miniatures. So I went to the hardware shop and bought some tiny drill bits. But when I drill, the plastic melts and accumulates around the bit, making a mess. What am I doing wrong? I checked the drill bits box more closely and it says they're for metal, which might be my problem? Does Dremel make drills for plastic? Plastic has a relatively low melting point. Even the sharpest drill bit creates friction, friction creates heat, heat melts plastic. You can try to drill at the lowest speed your dremel will run, or you can go out and buy a pin vise and drill by hand, since plastic is extremely soft. https://www.micromark.com/Swivel-Hd-Pin-Vise-0-1-8
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Sep 26, 2019 15:47
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Furism posted:
I'm a freak; I paint in silence.
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Sep 26, 2019 15:53
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Furism posted:I have a Dremel mini-drill and I wanted to use it to drill holes in my miniatures. So I went to the hardware shop and bought some tiny drill bits. But when I drill, the plastic melts and accumulates around the bit, making a mess. What am I doing wrong? I checked the drill bits box more closely and it says they're for metal, which might be my problem? Does Dremel make drills for plastic?
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Sep 26, 2019 16:00
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I made my first attempt at some resin water bases. Still need to clean these up and put some gloss varnish on them but for a first attempt I think Im off to a decent start This one I think turned out the best of the bunch. The least bubbles and the water didnt get too opaque. not 100% sure on the color but It could work with a model with the right scheme. Probably needs a little green foliage to balance it out.  This one my mold didnt hold and it popped open overnight while it cured. It leaked out and took a lot of cleanup to get it to this point. Some of the tape is petty far in there and will be a pain to clean up. Im using army painter shades to color this and the green didnt blend as nicely as the others. You could def see flakes in it when I first dropped it in. I like the color but I think it needs more work.  The third one I used the leftover resin from the green and added some AP strong tone. Its pretty dark and murky and might not be that bad. Im interested to see how this one will turn out when I clean it up and get some varnish on it. So far this has been a lot of fun. Getting a clean mold is tricky and Im going to try a few more things on the next batch. Once I get my technique down I'll probably pick up a box of something to make another kill team on these.
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Sep 26, 2019 16:33
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Depending on the size of the barrel in question, I use a common home drill bit with just my fingers (not even a pin vise). Plastic is very soft. A pin vice was something I used a lot more back in the bad old metal/resin days
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Sep 26, 2019 17:19
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Grundma posted:You could def see flakes in it when I first dropped it in. I like the color but I think it needs more work.. You really have to use dyes to color clear resins, or you'll see the pigment separate from the carrier when you use paint. Michaels sells tinting dyes for some of their resins in store. Lots of product online for the same purpose. I've heard you can even use Rit clothing dyes for the job.
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Sep 26, 2019 17:26
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What are you trying to paint? That's a fair question I'm considering getting into miniatures for D&D so was looking into buying a couple different types of minis for my campaign. Things like goblins, player characters, guards, etc. It's why I was thinking a starter set for paints would be a good idea, since they'll have a variety of different colors.
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Sep 26, 2019 19:21
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how many varnish layers you all normally do?
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Sep 26, 2019 21:18
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Cat Face Joe posted:how many varnish layers you all normally do?
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Sep 26, 2019 21:29
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Cat Face Joe posted:how many varnish layers you all normally do? Over the course of a model 1-2 gloss layers and 3-5 matte layers
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Sep 26, 2019 21:58
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Speaking of varnish, will a gloss+matt Model Master (IIRC it's rebranded Testors) suffice for boardgame minis? They're small, light plastic figures but they'll be stored loosely together, with no foam or any of the fancy wargaming storage poo poo. If so, how do I best clean an airbrush after those, because I'm a bit concerned I'm gonna get some terrible gunk in it 
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Sep 26, 2019 22:52
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Just discovered that Simple Green does NOT like green stuff, ironically.
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Sep 26, 2019 23:12
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I ask cause I normally do four coats. Two gloss, two matte. Booley posted:Over the course of a model 1-2 gloss layers and 3-5 matte layers But you're using it to "complete" specific layers of the paint scheme right? Pierzak posted:Speaking of varnish, will a gloss+matt Model Master (IIRC it's rebranded Testors) suffice for boardgame minis? They're small, light plastic figures but they'll be stored loosely together, with no foam or any of the fancy wargaming storage poo poo. Should be fine and I'd clean it the exact same way as any other paint in the brush.
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Sep 26, 2019 23:25
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WIP:  Result:   Washes and highlights are good, yo. This was my first try of wraithbone contrast spray, i think i
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Sep 27, 2019 07:09
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Verisimilidude posted:That's a fair question I like Vallejo paints, and they have a variety of sets that are around $50. Either the Basic USA, Medieval, or Game Color Intro sets would do well for you. The difference between Vallejo Model and Game color is just the range; Game color is meant to match the color line from Games Workshop.
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Sep 27, 2019 12:31
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 I need to either get better at extreme highlights or be a little bit less tight with the Eshin grey edge highlight to make things noticeable. Also not sure if Eshin Grey > Dawnstone or Eshin Grey > Administratus Grey is better option for Raven Guard. The GW guides for them say three different things anyway.
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Sep 27, 2019 13:48
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Count_Brass posted:I’m only using it for priming and basecoats at the moment but it’s saved me a load of time on the last few minis so for me it’s already paying for itself (lookin’ at you Sons Of Horus green!) It’ll definitely take me a long time to get good with it but for now being able to base a mini in 3 minutes instead of 40 is great! Is Sons of Horus Green hard to work with? That's one of the colors I thought about getting to do the Mark III Marines I got.
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Sep 27, 2019 14:01
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Max Wilco posted:Is Sons of Horus Green hard to work with?
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Sep 27, 2019 19:24
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Ben Nerevarine posted:Just discovered that Simple Green does NOT like green stuff, ironically. What happens? I might have to get some magnets out of a bunch of green stuff on my knight so if it can help with that it would be cool.
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Sep 27, 2019 20:08
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I like Vallejo paints, and they have a variety of sets that are around $50. Either the Basic USA, Medieval, or Game Color Intro sets would do well for you. The difference between Vallejo Model and Game color is just the range; Game color is meant to match the color line from Games Workshop. That's not quite true, per Vallejo: quote:Model Color and Panzer Aces are creamy, highly opaque acrylics formulated principally for brush application: the two ranges total some 246 matte colors and mediums, and 8 brilliant alcohol based metallic colors. That said they're both perfectly good for painting minis and you should just pickup whichever one has colors you like better (or mix and match, afaik all of the big hobby acrylic paint lines are perfectly "compatible" with one another).
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Sep 27, 2019 21:09
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The Moon Monster posted:That said they're both perfectly good for painting minis and you should just pickup whichever one has colors you like better (or mix and match, afaik all of the big hobby acrylic paint lines are perfectly "compatible" with one another). Huh. Neat.
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Sep 27, 2019 21:11
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Inspector_666 posted:What happens? I might have to get some magnets out of a bunch of green stuff on my knight so if it can help with that it would be cool. It caused the green stuff to loosen around the edges of where it meets the model, making a raised lip. I could actually see it being a useful effect for clothing or something. Unfortunately I was using it to round out heads and shoulders of some ur-ghouls that were snipped from their sprues a little too aggressively. The green stuff didn’t detach but it didn’t sand down well either after cleaning and drying, so I just peeled it off and redid it. It peeled off very easily, if that sounds like it would help in your case, but I imagine there are better ways.
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Sep 27, 2019 21:20
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The Moon Monster posted:That's not quite true, per Vallejo: The 'Heavy' line withing Vallejo Game Color actually is designed to be 1:1 with the old Foundation line of Citadel paints, to the point that if you get one of the sets, it includes a chart to show which VGC heavy paints match Foundations. I think the story I heard was they formulated them when GW was looking to get a new supplier for paints so they could show they could match the line, but then the Great Reformulation happened.
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Sep 27, 2019 21:36
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New to all this. Other than dwarves forge who else does environment models? Is dwarven forge well regarded at all or
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Sep 28, 2019 06:30
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Alan Smithee posted:New to all this. Other than dwarves forge who else does environment models? Is dwarven forge well regarded at all or Hirst Arts sells molds so you can cast your own environments and bases.
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Sep 28, 2019 07:46
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I finished up the two Phobos characters and I quite like how they turned out:
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Sep 28, 2019 15:51
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Debating cork style bases for my death guard, a few rocks and an occasional plant would round out the bases. Thoughts?
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Sep 28, 2019 21:15
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